Salty Sea Dog

Hi everyone. Mystic's hull and superstructure has undergone some changes. The new superstructure is different and looks a bit sportier than the initial design, as can be seen by the cardboard mockup.
 
Importantly, inside the hull, I've built the floors and cabin bulkheads, in readiness for the cabin furniture to be installed. I've also built the two diesel engines. These, along with the propeller shafts can be seen in the photos as well.
 
A large cutout in the side of the hull has also been done to enable viewing of the interior.
 
Here go the photos. Hope you enjoy.

Hi everyone. I've decided to build a micro-scale motor cruiser at 1:278 scale because these ships ooze olde- world charm. Just looking at these types of ships evoke images of wealthy folks cruising in luxury from a bygone era. My ship will be loosely based on the ship pictured in the plans below. I'll make my own version using my own ideas.
 
The hull consists of wooden planks formed over a waxed wooden plug. The interior will be fully detailed, as is the norm in all my models, eg Ingomar ( see my other build log).
 
Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos and will join me on this boat's journey.

Well I got sidetracked this week. I finally got my son back after 6 years of separation. So we've been catching up while I dink away at my build.
 
I saw this photo and thought it to be a nice looking compass. I'm not set on the face yet, and might be trying a contact for the lens. Still workin on the oars, they take more attention than conversations will allow. Those assorted metal pieces worked perfect for this application.
 
Matt

Nice work!

Well back to work on Mary Rose after a little vacation.
When I got back home the hull looked even worse to me than it did before I went on vacation.   I am almost glad I have to start over, and I am sure it will come out better this time.  I have been thinking I will try doing the re-build in an upside down Harold Hahn type jig. 
So far I have re-made the keel/stem/sternpost and have make the sloltted base for the build jig. 
 
One idea that I am toying with is building the hull in 3 sections.  Midship section, Sterncastle and Forecastle.  I am thinking it would be easier to detail the interior of the hull with the end of the section open, then join them together.   Any thoughts on that? 
 
 
 

 

Further strengthening of the great arch and castle was required with vertical and horizontal knees and cross-bracing. I think it is strong enough now.
Dick
 

 

 

 

 
 

Forecastle framing complete. Now to do the clinker planking below the castle. I will need further framing to support the "Great Arch"

 

 

 

 
Dick

Thank you Vivian, Nenad and Steven and Happy New Year. Here are more progress pics of the forecastle. The forecastle may seem narrow but I have followed the original drawing faithfully. This allows a lot of tumblehome for the clinker planking below the forecastle, improves water shedding and looks better. I am sure there was a lot of variation among shipwrights as to forecastle design.
 

 

 

 

 
 
Dick

Due to some shed time over the xmas break, I have been able to make a good start on the forecastle.
 
This is the forecastle base.
 

 

 

 

 

The completion of the windlass.
 

 

 

 

 
Ricardo
 
 

Carrick bitts are installed to hold the anchor windlass.
 

 

 

 
Dick
 
 

I just came across another carrack picture. This is from Botticelli's 1485 painting of the Judgment of Paris, and shows a carrack being careened - she's leaning over with her deck toward the viewer, so you get a view that is almost directly from above - the ships overall shap is very clear, and you can see the deck fittings. I believe Botticelli to be one of the more trustworthy artists, so I'd be willing to take his painting as being pretty much spot-on.
 
But what's that wooden thing in the foreground? And how do you get to the poop deck and the forecastle?

The following pics show tghe substantial completion of the sterncastle.
 

 

I believe the sides of the castle would have contained removable blinds. These would have been removed to reduce windage and would have provided protection for archers if attacked
 

 

 

 
Dick

It's pretty busy under the mast tops now :
 

 
  Danny

I was unhappy about the thread color and the stark contrast for the crowsfeet, so I'm re-doing them with black line :
 

 
This is not entirely accurate, as to the best of my knowledge they weren't tarred, but the visual aspect is far better.
 
  Danny

Another update.
I finished the standing rigging of the foremast.
In one of the photo I placed a dark paper behind one side, in order to let understand better the type of arrangement that I made (otherwise it can appear a little confusing).
In another photo there are the terminal points of the rigging, on the deck, using the toggles (and it can be clearly seen what a mess of cables surround and cover the cannons!).
I made other photos from other views, since by PM I know that there is some modeller that is interested on building this model.
Since later can be difficult to reach with the fingers the base of the foremast, for blocks placing, I am installing them now.
Some will be involved in the running rigging of the main mast and some for the foremast, but in anycase I must place them now.
I prepared a drawing ( I modified a drawing taken from a book), that explains how the lateen sails of this ship must change their side.
This is very important for making this model from scratch, since I am projecting the possible rigging, and that cannot be made without understanding how those sails must be controlled.
The following are the key points:
-From all the drawings and paintings the big lateen sail results OUTSIDE of the standing rigging;
-The small lateen sail fo the mizzen mast usually is INSIDE the standing rigging;
-This is a polacre, so some of the running and standing rigging of the main mast will "produce interference" behind the foremast;
-This polacre is of mid XVIII century, so the rigging is more standardised.
So all the rigging is made accordingly to the above points.
 
I want to remark that everything related to the rigging of this model is just my approach, based on my knowledge.
So it can be partially wrong.
But surely I am trying to stick as much as I can to the possible real configuration of the rigging of this ship.

My shipyard is open again!
Now I am focusing on the standing rigging of the foremast.
-I installed two other cannons (10 more to be installed).
In one of the photos can be seen the single, double and multiple blocks that are needed for this section (one side only), in addition to the toggles for securing them to the deck.
-In other photos is shown how the cables of the standing rigging are secured to the top of the foremast.
I followed the various xebecs and galleys ancient drawings and models.
In the other photos are showed some of the them already installed.
In order to do so, I needed to prepare the ropes and blocks almost completely, before glueing them to the deck (other photos), otherwise the space available for making the various knots was not enough.
More will follow in the next days.
 

Due to various other matters, I slowed a bit the ship construction.
Below the photos of this update:
-I added two more cannons (still 12 to be installed! );
- I added the main mast stay, which is intended only the first part of it, since the main mast has not yet installed.
But due to the various components that will be added to the foremast zone, I must made this operation now.
I stopped to the second "heart".
-I added the multiple block of the foremast lateen sail, which it needed a more complex study than it seems, since I tried to be more likely to the Venetian "approach", which is different than (for example) the french xebec models multiple block.
The multiple block is positioned high, in order to permit the passage of the main mast stay.
In another photo can be seen the multiple block of an original Venetian galley contemporary model.
Now I will start the rigging of the foremast, which it will need a bit more study.
 

I am starting to attach the cannons to the deck!
The first two cannons in place!
The first cannon took around two hours to be placed, due to the difficoulty to glue the small rings to the bulwark.
The second cannon took... 1 hour and half.
So I must consider a lot of time for complete that operation (still 14 cannon, that means 21 hour of duty around those).
I forgot to say that I have not yet finished to prepare the rigging of all cannons.
Definetly a small nightmare....
In anycase I will place only some cannons for the moment, just to have the deck prepared for the rigging of the foremast.
I like the result, all that loose ropes that surround each cannon give me a good overall impression.
I am preparing the gunports, too, as can be seen in another photo.
The gunports are made by many pieces, so that process too, is long and boring.
I prepared other yard for the mizzen mast, as it can be seen in another photo (I must use the "noisy days" wisely).
I think that the "noisy operations" that remains are very few:
-some customised block for the main mast and mizzen mast;
-the mizzen mast;
-support for the service boat.

The stern portion of the decking consists of a waffle pattern of wood.  The kit provided notched strips of wood that assembled into the waffle structure.  Delicate but not too difficult to work with.  I airbrushed the assemble structures with brown acrylic paint.

I have continued working on the deck planking.  It took about a week to lay down the wood strips and another couple of night to stain and seal the wood.  I tried several stains (and even looked at no stain) and decided to go with golden oak.  I think it gives the grain a richer pattern.
 
My jig for cutting the planking to the proper length worked very well.  The jig that was used to position the pin holesto simulate the deck nailing.....not so much.  After using it for a few hundred holes the positioning holes in the jig widen and accuracy was somewhat diminished.  Overall, however, I think the deck looks OK.

I decided to "fill-in" some of the bow and stern frames forming a semi-sold hull.  I looked at the shape of the bow and stern and decided I would have a tough time achieving the shapes by planking alone (as this is my first planking attempt).  I am hoping that by forming a solid hull in some areas; I will have more success.
 
I did notice there was a thread about this issue last week.  Reading the replies to the question about filling in the frames I guess most of the builders don't believe it to be a great idea.  Well........time will tell.
 
I did not use solid blocks.  Instead I used 3/8" sheets of soft balsa wood and built up the space between the bulkheads.  Took alot of shaping and sanding but I think I was successful.  Looking at the build....it is surely in the "ugly" stage.

I have always had a fascination with tugs.  When I saw this kit at a local hobbyshop I grabbed it off the shelf.  This will be my second build.  This will be my first attempt at planking a hull so I am a bit apprehensive about that part of the build.  This looks to be another learning experience.
 
On first perusal it appears to be pretty complete.  The wood looks good and the laser cut parts looks well done.  Nothing appears to be warped beyond use.  The hardware also looks pretty good. 

Wow you remind me of the work my father in law used to do when he was younger. I can relate to your comments about the cold weather and the occasional brain fart!
"Sucks to get old as my father in law would say." Oh well a little humility goes a long way and the project is definitely first rate.
I checked out the videos and that was very informative.
Keep up the great work!
Blessings .... Jeff

beautiful machining Work Michael,
 
those Videos are great, ans also that reversing gear works fantastic, well done!
 
Nils