MikeR
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Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans
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Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans
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Today I made railings for the forecastle deck. The vertical post are 1/16" square ebony. I drilled 1/16" holes in the base, using a small chisel I turned the round holes into square holes and finished them with a tapered square needle file. In the posts I drilled two .6mm holes which I ran 2 fine wires through and weaved the railings.
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Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans
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vossiewulf reacted to a post in a topic:
Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans
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While adjusting some rigging on the foremast, the button on my shirt sleeve cuff caught in the rigging of the lower yard and broke the brass knuckle joint that holds it on the mast. I made the new one out of stainless steel. Using my wood lathe and files I turned a 1/8 stainless rod down to .039" and then ran threads with a 1mm die. After I filed the connecting lug and drilled a mounting hole I reinstalled on to the foremast. Needless to say I am now wearing sweat shirts without buttons on the cuffs.
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans
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My first carving attempt. Mike R
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At last the rudder is installed. Mike R
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I received my order of scroll saw blades and cut out the pintles and the preventer iron. I soldered the pins in and used liver of sulfur to blacken the pieces. Mike R
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I guess it is close to a year again so here goes. I finished the rudder and I think it is my best joinery to date. Trouble is you will never see it because it is covered with copper plate. For the gudgeons and pintles I am using .110 copper plate. I cut and drilled the 4 gudgeons. I attached the pattern for the pintle to the copper with rubber cement. Then I drilled the hole and started to cut it out but I broke my last saw scroll saw blade, I broke 2 blades cutting these out. I am now waiting for my order of 2/0 metal cutting blades to be delivered. Mike R
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An unexpected gem and well worth the trip is located in Canton Ohio at the Blue Water Majesty Museum. I spoke with the owner, Larry Pulka, who built all the ships from scratch and turned his former warehouse into a display of impressive and inspiring works of art. From his model of his canoe to the model of the Frigate his passion for detail is meticulous and would be appreciated by even the casual visitor.
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Rick, I run into that problem too. I have dropped many items and found a few while looking for them on my hands and knees. I probably spent more time looking than the time spent making the item. I made and installed a new top mast crosstree, I replaced the cut away rigging, installed the chains for the Bowsprit and ran the rest of the running rigging. I am working on the braces and have completed the braces for the skysail yards, the royal yards, and the topgallant yards. Mike R
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Keith Your work is amazing. When I cut .250 copper or brass I use a Dewalt variable speed scroll saw . I use either #1/0 or #2/0 blades at a mid range speed. I cut through a thin layer of cutting oil on the brass or copper which keeps the blade cool and lubricates it during the cutting . When I take my time and cut slow, I break very few blades. MikeR
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Disaster, while working the royal yard I broke the cross arm off the top mast crosstree. I thought about trying to repair it, but it is the base of the top gallant shrouds so I had to replace it. I really felt bad cutting most of the rigging off, but it had to be done. Mike
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One of today's projects is making the rest of the small eye bolts for the jack stays
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Rob I still have to add on the fancy carved corner knees for the roof. I never tried carving before so that is what the holdup is. I did have a scalloped molding that went under the roof line, but I did not liked the way it looked so I removed it. I am still plan on trying a different design. I have been working on the iron work for the lower yard, topsail yard and the top gallant yard. These were silver soldered , then placed in an acid bath to clean them. I used liver of sulfur to blacken them. Mike R
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Mike I use a digital caliper. Measure the width of the strip, say .250 divide it in half and set the caliper to .125 and lock it in place. Then scribe the line, to be super accurate scribe from both sides. You could also use the caliper to just center punch the piece and drill a hole. I use this method to find the center of 1/16 brass strips. Mike R
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George Thanks for the information. I will give it a try tomorrow. Mike
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It has been nearly a year since I stopped working on the Flying Fish, well 10 1/2 months. Today I installed the Fore topmast shrouds and back stays. The inner and out stay is terminated under the fore deck. To any Flying Fish builders, how did you accomplish this? Any help would be appreciated. Mike R
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