6ohiocav

Thanks guys. Tried both and nada.  The problem is getting a drill bit to seat in the center and not migrate into one of the adjoining deadeye holes. It would be better off to give me a solid disc with no holes. I can't scribe a starter hole into the hardwood deadeye without breaking it. Veryfrustrating.
 
I will go ahead and just acquire some.
 
Worked on the starboard chainplates. Mainmast done, working on foremast.

Very good advice.  I use a fly tying bobbin to keep tension on my seizing lines. The fly tying tools are great, but the fly tying threads are also good. Great products for seizing lines.

CHANNELS AND CHAINS
 
I fabricated the channels, cut the chain notches, and for the main mast channels, cut out the boat davit notch.  Sanded, primed and painted flat black with the air brush.
 
I then made the final long link for the shroud chains, after many trials and errors to get the right length, and wired up the small deadeyes for the stay chains.
 
I then attached them to the channels, and pinned the chains with a blackened head of a straight pin. I will adjust the angles if necessary when I rig the shrouds.
 
And then I ran into some frustrations.  I very much like this kit, and have complimented Model Expo continuously throughout this process. However, I have to question something. The plans call for “7/64 deadeyes for the topmast backstays” and “9/64 deadeyes for the lower shrouds.” Fair enough. Then why does the kit only supply “3/32 and 1/8 deadeyes”? I realize we are dealing with very small differences that are lost to the naked eye, but there are many examples where the plans call for items and sizes that do not match the kit supplied implements.  I realize that cost is an issue, and as I have said this is a GREAT KIT. But really guys…
 
Also, the kit does not provide bullseyes. The plans call for you to drill out the center of the supplied deadeyes. Can someone teach me how to drill out the center of a 3/32 deadeye with three holes to make a bullseye. Way to small and brittle, and no way to center a small drill bit. They are made of hardwood, and to score a center hole with a pin, you have to press so hard that the deadeye breaks before you make a mark. It would be appreciated if the kit simply supplied them. I gave up after an hour after realizing the best way to open up the center was to chisel it out with an exacto knife. They looked pretty bad, and forget trying to hone out the middle with a drill bit, they only break apart.  Therefore, my top gallant backstays will be rigged to a deadeye instead of a bullseye.
 
There are going to be many other uses of bullseyes, so any suggestions are welcome.

Very good advice.  I use a fly tying bobbin to keep tension on my seizing lines. The fly tying tools are great, but the fly tying threads are also good. Great products for seizing lines.

CHANNELS AND CHAINS
 
I fabricated the channels, cut the chain notches, and for the main mast channels, cut out the boat davit notch.  Sanded, primed and painted flat black with the air brush.
 
I then made the final long link for the shroud chains, after many trials and errors to get the right length, and wired up the small deadeyes for the stay chains.
 
I then attached them to the channels, and pinned the chains with a blackened head of a straight pin. I will adjust the angles if necessary when I rig the shrouds.
 
And then I ran into some frustrations.  I very much like this kit, and have complimented Model Expo continuously throughout this process. However, I have to question something. The plans call for “7/64 deadeyes for the topmast backstays” and “9/64 deadeyes for the lower shrouds.” Fair enough. Then why does the kit only supply “3/32 and 1/8 deadeyes”? I realize we are dealing with very small differences that are lost to the naked eye, but there are many examples where the plans call for items and sizes that do not match the kit supplied implements.  I realize that cost is an issue, and as I have said this is a GREAT KIT. But really guys…
 
Also, the kit does not provide bullseyes. The plans call for you to drill out the center of the supplied deadeyes. Can someone teach me how to drill out the center of a 3/32 deadeye with three holes to make a bullseye. Way to small and brittle, and no way to center a small drill bit. They are made of hardwood, and to score a center hole with a pin, you have to press so hard that the deadeye breaks before you make a mark. It would be appreciated if the kit simply supplied them. I gave up after an hour after realizing the best way to open up the center was to chisel it out with an exacto knife. They looked pretty bad, and forget trying to hone out the middle with a drill bit, they only break apart.  Therefore, my top gallant backstays will be rigged to a deadeye instead of a bullseye.
 
There are going to be many other uses of bullseyes, so any suggestions are welcome.

Very good advice.  I use a fly tying bobbin to keep tension on my seizing lines. The fly tying tools are great, but the fly tying threads are also good. Great products for seizing lines.

CHANNELS AND CHAINS
 
I fabricated the channels, cut the chain notches, and for the main mast channels, cut out the boat davit notch.  Sanded, primed and painted flat black with the air brush.
 
I then made the final long link for the shroud chains, after many trials and errors to get the right length, and wired up the small deadeyes for the stay chains.
 
I then attached them to the channels, and pinned the chains with a blackened head of a straight pin. I will adjust the angles if necessary when I rig the shrouds.
 
And then I ran into some frustrations.  I very much like this kit, and have complimented Model Expo continuously throughout this process. However, I have to question something. The plans call for “7/64 deadeyes for the topmast backstays” and “9/64 deadeyes for the lower shrouds.” Fair enough. Then why does the kit only supply “3/32 and 1/8 deadeyes”? I realize we are dealing with very small differences that are lost to the naked eye, but there are many examples where the plans call for items and sizes that do not match the kit supplied implements.  I realize that cost is an issue, and as I have said this is a GREAT KIT. But really guys…
 
Also, the kit does not provide bullseyes. The plans call for you to drill out the center of the supplied deadeyes. Can someone teach me how to drill out the center of a 3/32 deadeye with three holes to make a bullseye. Way to small and brittle, and no way to center a small drill bit. They are made of hardwood, and to score a center hole with a pin, you have to press so hard that the deadeye breaks before you make a mark. It would be appreciated if the kit simply supplied them. I gave up after an hour after realizing the best way to open up the center was to chisel it out with an exacto knife. They looked pretty bad, and forget trying to hone out the middle with a drill bit, they only break apart.  Therefore, my top gallant backstays will be rigged to a deadeye instead of a bullseye.
 
There are going to be many other uses of bullseyes, so any suggestions are welcome.

Very good advice.  I use a fly tying bobbin to keep tension on my seizing lines. The fly tying tools are great, but the fly tying threads are also good. Great products for seizing lines.

Rudder and Tiller Assemble
Spent some time in the paint booth, putting on a layer of primer and flat black on my rudder, gudgeons and pin assemblies.  I also painted my channels. I used an aerosol primer and first coat of black paint.  My final coat of paint was put on with the airbrush. I stained the top of the rudder that rose above the deck with a cherry stain. Overall, a good finish for all.
 
I then attached the rudder to the hull. I scratched off the paint on the hull, measured and re-measured and glued the pins in place.
 
I attached the tiller and then proceeded to work on the tackle ropes.  The plans call for set of single 3/32 blocks that are seized to an eyebolt in the waterway on one end and belayed to the tiller on the other. Going back to my gun tackle experience, I went ahead and created two loops with pre-made seizings and stropped them to a block. I also placed an additional piece of .008 black rope on top that I used to seize to a hand made eyebolt.
 
For the block at the tiller end, I first molded a single strand of .008 black rope into a circle eight and through a series of vices and tape, was able to position it such to seize the intersection point, leaving two tales that could tighten each loop. With one loop, I placed a block inside and tightened it down. I then placed the other loop over the tiller handle and tightened it down. I then applied a small drop of medium CA to freeze the knot and trimmed of the tales.
 
I then rigged the lines, and tied the tails off on the tiller handle as per the plans. This “little” project took all evening.
 
Here are some photos.

Hervie,
 
Thanks for stopping in.  I love the Syren. I will be following along. I am always trying to pick up techniques from the experts on this forum.

And here are some photos of the lower chainplate assembly

Chainplates and Deadeyes.
 
I am getting things in order to install the channels. That means stropping (?) the deadeyes. I am not sure if that is the right term.
 
I used a 24 gauge black wire.  Picking up a tip on this forum, I experimented with different sized wire rings which when crimped, created the proper shape of the wired deadeyes. I ended up using a ¼ inch dowel rod to wrap the wire around to get my circles.
 
I cut them, then soldered the ends, and carefully crimped the middle. I broke the solder joint on about 1/3 of them, but was able to crank out the required 20.
 
I also worked on the bottom chainplate that attaches to the hull with carriage bolts (pins). I tried different ideas.  I started making them out of the same 24 gauge black wire by wrapping it around a pin jig, then soldering the middle, leaving the holes at each end.  I did not like how it looked, and it took way to long.  This is a very small piece.
 
 
I then decided to take a different approach.  Starting with a 1mm brass rod, I flattened the end with a metal punch, and drilled a small hole with the pin vice.  I then cut the rod to size using a jig to measure, and flattened and drilled the other end.  I then blackened the piece.  This worked reasonably well and look like the chainplates in the plans.  I turned out 20 of these. 
 
I still have to make the wire parts, but believe that will go smoother, since it is a simple wire wrap.  I have to work on the deadeyes for the stays, and based on suggestions from this forum, will mount the completed deadeyes on the channels that I have created (still need painted) before attaching the assemblies to the hull.
 
Here are some photos showing the deadeye work.

Ken,
 
Great looking coils!  I turned mine on a sheet of glass. I also used spring loaded pointed tweezers, but was able to use .012 rope so not as tedious. Keeping the .008 from bunching up in the middle had to be a chore.
 
The incredible detail and scale of the rigged guns is superb - and inspiring.

Hervie,
 
Your modeling skills are second to none, and your Syren looks exquisite, but I have to comment on the technical quality of your build log. Your illustrated pictures and narrative are incredible. Your use of light for the photos, and the back drop are obviously by design.  Heck, I can't get a photo to focus half the time. I know just enough about technology to realize that you have to be spending quite a bit of time in the planning process, and for that, I am thankful. You are giving all of our eyes a real treat. I would enjoy your log even if I did not like building ships. You are obviously bringing some of your professional skills into your retirement - BRAVO!

Rudder and Tiller Assemble
Spent some time in the paint booth, putting on a layer of primer and flat black on my rudder, gudgeons and pin assemblies.  I also painted my channels. I used an aerosol primer and first coat of black paint.  My final coat of paint was put on with the airbrush. I stained the top of the rudder that rose above the deck with a cherry stain. Overall, a good finish for all.
 
I then attached the rudder to the hull. I scratched off the paint on the hull, measured and re-measured and glued the pins in place.
 
I attached the tiller and then proceeded to work on the tackle ropes.  The plans call for set of single 3/32 blocks that are seized to an eyebolt in the waterway on one end and belayed to the tiller on the other. Going back to my gun tackle experience, I went ahead and created two loops with pre-made seizings and stropped them to a block. I also placed an additional piece of .008 black rope on top that I used to seize to a hand made eyebolt.
 
For the block at the tiller end, I first molded a single strand of .008 black rope into a circle eight and through a series of vices and tape, was able to position it such to seize the intersection point, leaving two tales that could tighten each loop. With one loop, I placed a block inside and tightened it down. I then placed the other loop over the tiller handle and tightened it down. I then applied a small drop of medium CA to freeze the knot and trimmed of the tales.
 
I then rigged the lines, and tied the tails off on the tiller handle as per the plans. This “little” project took all evening.
 
Here are some photos.

Rudder and Tiller Assemble
Spent some time in the paint booth, putting on a layer of primer and flat black on my rudder, gudgeons and pin assemblies.  I also painted my channels. I used an aerosol primer and first coat of black paint.  My final coat of paint was put on with the airbrush. I stained the top of the rudder that rose above the deck with a cherry stain. Overall, a good finish for all.
 
I then attached the rudder to the hull. I scratched off the paint on the hull, measured and re-measured and glued the pins in place.
 
I attached the tiller and then proceeded to work on the tackle ropes.  The plans call for set of single 3/32 blocks that are seized to an eyebolt in the waterway on one end and belayed to the tiller on the other. Going back to my gun tackle experience, I went ahead and created two loops with pre-made seizings and stropped them to a block. I also placed an additional piece of .008 black rope on top that I used to seize to a hand made eyebolt.
 
For the block at the tiller end, I first molded a single strand of .008 black rope into a circle eight and through a series of vices and tape, was able to position it such to seize the intersection point, leaving two tales that could tighten each loop. With one loop, I placed a block inside and tightened it down. I then placed the other loop over the tiller handle and tightened it down. I then applied a small drop of medium CA to freeze the knot and trimmed of the tales.
 
I then rigged the lines, and tied the tails off on the tiller handle as per the plans. This “little” project took all evening.
 
Here are some photos.

Hervie,
 
Your modeling skills are second to none, and your Syren looks exquisite, but I have to comment on the technical quality of your build log. Your illustrated pictures and narrative are incredible. Your use of light for the photos, and the back drop are obviously by design.  Heck, I can't get a photo to focus half the time. I know just enough about technology to realize that you have to be spending quite a bit of time in the planning process, and for that, I am thankful. You are giving all of our eyes a real treat. I would enjoy your log even if I did not like building ships. You are obviously bringing some of your professional skills into your retirement - BRAVO!

Rudder and Tiller Assemble
Spent some time in the paint booth, putting on a layer of primer and flat black on my rudder, gudgeons and pin assemblies.  I also painted my channels. I used an aerosol primer and first coat of black paint.  My final coat of paint was put on with the airbrush. I stained the top of the rudder that rose above the deck with a cherry stain. Overall, a good finish for all.
 
I then attached the rudder to the hull. I scratched off the paint on the hull, measured and re-measured and glued the pins in place.
 
I attached the tiller and then proceeded to work on the tackle ropes.  The plans call for set of single 3/32 blocks that are seized to an eyebolt in the waterway on one end and belayed to the tiller on the other. Going back to my gun tackle experience, I went ahead and created two loops with pre-made seizings and stropped them to a block. I also placed an additional piece of .008 black rope on top that I used to seize to a hand made eyebolt.
 
For the block at the tiller end, I first molded a single strand of .008 black rope into a circle eight and through a series of vices and tape, was able to position it such to seize the intersection point, leaving two tales that could tighten each loop. With one loop, I placed a block inside and tightened it down. I then placed the other loop over the tiller handle and tightened it down. I then applied a small drop of medium CA to freeze the knot and trimmed of the tales.
 
I then rigged the lines, and tied the tails off on the tiller handle as per the plans. This “little” project took all evening.
 
Here are some photos.

Ken,
 
Great looking coils!  I turned mine on a sheet of glass. I also used spring loaded pointed tweezers, but was able to use .012 rope so not as tedious. Keeping the .008 from bunching up in the middle had to be a chore.
 
The incredible detail and scale of the rigged guns is superb - and inspiring.

Ken,
 
Great looking coils!  I turned mine on a sheet of glass. I also used spring loaded pointed tweezers, but was able to use .012 rope so not as tedious. Keeping the .008 from bunching up in the middle had to be a chore.
 
The incredible detail and scale of the rigged guns is superb - and inspiring.

Ken,
 
Great looking coils!  I turned mine on a sheet of glass. I also used spring loaded pointed tweezers, but was able to use .012 rope so not as tedious. Keeping the .008 from bunching up in the middle had to be a chore.
 
The incredible detail and scale of the rigged guns is superb - and inspiring.

Hervie,
 
Thanks for stopping in.  I love the Syren. I will be following along. I am always trying to pick up techniques from the experts on this forum.

Hervie,
 
Your modeling skills are second to none, and your Syren looks exquisite, but I have to comment on the technical quality of your build log. Your illustrated pictures and narrative are incredible. Your use of light for the photos, and the back drop are obviously by design.  Heck, I can't get a photo to focus half the time. I know just enough about technology to realize that you have to be spending quite a bit of time in the planning process, and for that, I am thankful. You are giving all of our eyes a real treat. I would enjoy your log even if I did not like building ships. You are obviously bringing some of your professional skills into your retirement - BRAVO!

Ken,
 
Great looking coils!  I turned mine on a sheet of glass. I also used spring loaded pointed tweezers, but was able to use .012 rope so not as tedious. Keeping the .008 from bunching up in the middle had to be a chore.
 
The incredible detail and scale of the rigged guns is superb - and inspiring.

And here are some photos of the lower chainplate assembly