shipcarpenter

I also started with the gratings at the bowsprit deck.  The quality of AL certainly deteriorated over the years.  On the left is a grating made from the strips that came with my kit.  The grooves are cut so poorly and unevenly that it is nearly impossible to form a grid.   I certainly wasn’t going to put that on my ship!  After a lot of trouble I managed to buy grating strips of an AL kit that was manufactured many years ago.  That grating is on the right.  They are as different as chalk and cheese…
 

 
To make the bowsprit grating, I first determined the shape of the grating by cutting a piece of paper until it fitted in the grating’s place.
 

 
I transferred the shape to a piece of spare wood and made a jig that formed a mold of some sorts.
 

 
 
From here it was easier to cut and assemble the grating.
 


 
Dry-fitted grating – I still need to do some serious sanding and varnish the whole assembly.

And the girls.

Build log part 51
 
 
 
HERE THE MODEL COMPLETED WITH ALL SAILS (part 2 of 3)
 
 
 
 

raft Container launching flip board
 

all ready for the maiden voyage
 

forecastle reports all sails set
 

mizzenmast top
 

foremast topgallant platform
 

foremast lower top with view on hard braced main sail yard
 

likewise for mainmast
 

mainsail braced leewards around the shrouds
 

view from the after wake
 

good at the wind course...
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 52 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 50
 
 
 
HERE THE MODEL COMPLETED WITH ALL SAILS (part 1 of 3)
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 51 to follow...
 
Nils

Hello,
 
thanks Pawel, I used actually small bulb lights but it can be easy done with LEDs. I will try them maybe on my next ship,
which is still  waiting on wardrobe.
Some more photos of boats and lantern.

Hello! 
a little progress done. I continue with boats - small frames were added, lantern is done - glazed with micro kristal klear, masts were turned on my home narex lathe...
Next are the channels, chain plates and deadeyes.

25’ Cutters Ver 2.5 (continued)
 
All progressed reasonably well with the planking from here on, although I did need to make a couple of stealer planks that I would not have needed to do if I were cutting the planks individually from sheet stock.  Never mind – I think I managed to sneak them in in a not too obvious way.  The secret here was to really feather the ends of the stealers so that they blended with the adjacent plank.
 
Here’s a few photos of the completed planking.  The stem needs trimming and shaping, as does the transom, but the hard work is done.  While it could be better, I'm satisfied with the results here - they say the third time is the charm!
 

 

 

 
And just to prove that I was working on two at once:
 

 

 
I thought I’d throw these two photos in to show the real difference in hull shape between the Cutters and the Pinnace (the Pinnace is 3’ (actual) longer than the Cutters).
 

 

 
And finally, just for scale, here’s the obligatory picture of a Cutter in that giant fake hand…..
 

 
Next up, fitting out and painting.  Stay tuned……

This set of photos shows the rest of the lower decks. 

Minor progress with the chain plates pinned in place. A mast was put in place and some rigging line tied off to give the run of the chainplates.
I pulled my old Sherbourne out recently to contribute to a display of my dad's woodwork and boats and noticed I must have fixed the chainplates as per the plans rather than following the rigging line. It's only noticeable on the Sherbourne now I know what to look for but I'm keen to avoid that mistake with Granado.


The fleet takes in the last of the autumn sunshine together.

The head rails had a centre section carved out to created raise prfofiles on either side. It's a little rough thanks to the file slipping and he grain on the walnut but it'll do. The centres were painted up to match the rest
Two part epoxy was used to attach the head rails. It claimed a setting time of 4 minutes but was more like an hour resulting in a lot of smearing to remove and paint over later.



 
While the epoxy was out the remaining stern figures were added. The castings are not quite symmetrical so bit of gentle pressure bent them on the right angle to have their heads resting against the taffrail. The bases they rest on had the edge facing the hull shaped to fit neatly.
The wee dolphin carvings were set further back towards the stern than the kit instructions show. According to AOTS Granado they are almost a continuation of the stern carvings.


 
His majesty's bomb vessel Granado as she now stands

It will come as no suprise to anyone who has been looking in on my log that i have changed my mind again  .I had one side of the hull close to completion and when i started the other side . {i still don,t know my port from my starport } i thought i would try something different as the timbers between the wales were put on first and so didn,t run in line with them . I used maple the same as the decking and thought why not try caulking the same as the deck and was pleasantly suprised with the effect  .It may not be everyones taste but i think it gives a very solid look to the hull . my caulking leaves a lot to be desired but it,s the best i can do at present ,of -course once i was finished to-day i read Nigel,s article on using black tissue paper but will still give it a try when redoing the other side   . One thing i have learned is to be more carefull about  choosing timber , the variations in color when varnished caught me out ,even the maple has different grains and the two sides of the plank can look completely different  . I had thought originally that this might add to the look but now im not so sure . will be more carefull next time  I look forward to any comment s but i can assure you i will not be re planking again ,there are some parts of my hull now over 6mm thick and apart from that i must try to move on to the next stage or i,ll be at this build for ever  . Continuing good weather leaves little build time at present , i,m a ploughman by day and a trainee shipwright by nite  Here come the pic,s and don,t hold back on the opinions im a big boy i can take it Have Fun !!
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
[

I graduated from the internal stack to the height of the deck boards.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The whole process of this model is described at this address:
 
http://www.koga.net....php?f=7&t=45782
 
on Polish modeling forum "Koga"

Stern filler blocks:
 
The first one of these took me much longer than I thought it would, but the second one was a lot faster. Isn't that how it always goes.
 
I first glued up two blanks to use for these. Instead of the 2" wide block that came with the kit, I used a a 1" piece of basswood that I had and glued on a 1/4" piece at the top, just to reduce the amount of waste.
 

 
I then made templates form the plans and traced the edges onto the different sides of the blank.
 

 
I cut the side profile with a coping saw, then taped the pieces back together and cut the S shaped back profile on the scroll saw. This took a while since my little scroll saw and thin blades didn't want to follow the lines nicely. But, I eventually got it cut out.
 

 

 
I then used the belt and disk sander to square up the top and side edges so they fit flush to the last bulkhead and the keel.  I used them to remove a lot of the material in the middle of the blank, and I also used my Dremel tool in the workstation with a sanding drum to get into the tighter curves. I finished up with a rounded file and some sanding blocks, and used the profile templates I made form the plans to check the overall shape of the block. I got the overall shape but the top edges were too small compared to the transom filler. Instead of remaking a whole new piece, I cut about 1/2" off the top of the blank and glued on two 1/4" pieces that were wider. After they dried, I sanded them to fit the existing shape of the blank but left the tops a bit wider than the template.
 
It was at this point that I realized that I had left the underside of the transom filler piece too long, since the stern filler piece did not fit all the way to the back edge. I flipped the hull over and held it in a keel klamper, then used a sanding block to sand the back edge of the transom filler back to the correct length. I left about a 1/16” flat area so the planking can end nicely into the transom filler. I found it much easier fitting these filler pieces with the hull upside down.  I then used the disk and belt sander to sand down the added top pieces to match the templates and flow into the original filler piece. I had to remove material in the middle of the filler to match the profile templates. For this I used the sanding disk in the Dremel tool in the workstation. I left the drum above the base so I could get the piece under the disk if I needed to.
 

 

 

 
I ended up with a nice general fit, but then I worked the edges some more with sanding blocks and the rounded file to get the edges to flow into the bulkhead R and the rabbet along the stern post. I ended up increasing the rabbet depth some with an X-Acto chisel so a 1/16” plank would fit nicely into the rabbet. When I had a good fit, I gave the whole piece a final sanding with medium and fine sandpaper. I was very happy with the way this filler piece turned out, but it took about 6 hours for make it.
 
The second one was a lot easier. I bought a few tools to make this process a little easier for this and the remaining filler pieces, which included heavier scroll saw blades with larger teeth and a small hand saw. I found this saw at Home Depot and it worked really well:
 

 
I used the hand saw to start the cut of the excess off the side profile, then the coping saw to finish it. I drew the side profile on both sides of the blank this time so I could check that I was not cutting off too much on either side. I taped the cut off pieces back on and cut the back S profile with the scroll saw with the new blades, which worked much better, especially after I increased the speed of the saw.
 

 
I then sanded the edges to the template lines. I again removed the center material with the Dremel sanding drum set up, and finished off with the sanding blocks and file. The rabbet on the starboard side was in good shape so I did not need to so anything with it. This side only took me 1.5 hours, and the two piece seem to match very well. I'll give them a final sanding along the edges when I fair the hull. You can see that the tips got pretty thin and ended up breaking off, but there is plenty of support from the bulkhead at those points, so I didn't bother to replace the tips. The pieces are not glued in yet, but will be soon.
 

 
Lots of saw dust created to make these two fillers, but it was pretty fun overall.  

I finished the stern davits. I made them out of pear wood (image 1) and mounted them (image 2) by notching the davits (and not the stern). I felt it would be easier to recover from potential mistakes using this method. Images 3 and 4 show the davits in their final position.
 
Thomas
 
 

Image 1
 
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3
 
 

Image 4
 

Фотосессия. С отделкой корпуса при ярком солнечном свете. Снятый на профессиональной камерой. Наконец исполнение соответствуют действительности. И это хорошо.

E&T, thanks for the comment.
I decided to solder the "bolts" to the bollard base plates, this process taught me something new about solder paste. When doing multiple joints on one piece, you need to heat the whole piece and do them simultaneously, or only put paste on the parts you are heating. I made the mistake of putting paste on all the bolt heads, then trying to do one end and then the other.....disaster. By the time I started heating the other end, the solder paste had dried out and would not make the joint. Had to pull the bolts out, clean off the crud and re-do them several times before realizing the cause and solution. This process messed the whole bollard assemblies up a little, they don't look as good as they might've. Probably would've been better to just push the bolts in after epoxying the bollards to the deck. Frustrating but instructive time.
After pickling and then scrubbing in acetone:

In place after chemical blacking.
 
 
Next project is the capstan base plate. The copper ring is from a piece of 1/2'' copper pipe. The inside was turned to the correct diameter with a boring bar, then the outside turned down to the correct thickness. Lugs were milled into the bottom of the ring, then the ring was half cut from the pipe at the correct height, the final separating cut had to be done with a jewellers saw. It proved impossible to separate the ring from the pipe with the lathe cut off tool, it collapsed due to the lack of thickness. This piece took 3 attempts to get it right, more instructive frustration. The base plate is 16mm (0.64") diameter. The pieces were then soldered together.
Another lesson re learned (I am still a novice lathe/mill user), if you are removing and replacing a work piece in the lathe chuck, always make sure it goes back in the same place in the chuck. I now have a mark on one of the chuck jaws (to differentiate it from the others), I file a small mark in the work piece where it meets the end of this jaw.
 

 
 

I started with imitation of wooden planking by strips of foil ( This is Dorisis´  method of planking - I learned it from her years ago  )
The patination of planking will follow.
 
Jan

Thanks, my friends
 
 
Upper parts of hulls are done, and the last part of planking is applied. I allways use four layers of planking - as I said, I want to have the extremely strong and smooth hull. 
 
Here are some photos of the result. 
 
Jan

Attached are photos of the lower main mast’s shrouds and stays.  I was pleased that the ‘line of sight’ of the aft guns were unaffected by the lanyards of the shrouds.  Hope the fore mast shrouds come out as well. 
I made the mouses from 1/8 inch dowel: first drilling the hole, then shaping the end and finally cutting off the finished mouse. 
I never realized that my fingers were so fat, and there are thinner lines and tighter spaces yet to come. 
I also see from one of the photos that I forgot to trim the lanyard of the main preventer stay.

Hi Omega1234,
thanks for nice comments.
 
Making of the rudder, hardware - pintles, gudgeons etc. will be added later.

Hi everyone, I have finished rigging the lowerpart of the bowsprit and have stepped and added gammoning. fitted like a glove. i am very happy...

...

Thank you Grant and Scott.
 
Continuing on with the Gangways, I've sanded and shaped them. The undersides have a taper forward and aft, the tops are flat :
 

 
There was no specific instruction on how to attach the inboard ends, so I came up with this idea. It allows the gangways to be both raised and swiveled :
 

 
The gangways fully rigged :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

All good Edwin .
 
Please excuse the poor pic quality - bad lighting.
 
I've made inroads into the 3rd deck railings. These once again needed custom built upper and lower wooden rails around the fore end. All posts have been fitted. The aft end gets a different treatment, as one of the brace poles are in each corner :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hi Rowan, Lovely to see your build. I am currently doing a kit build of the Endeavour (Constructo 1:60), and have reached the stage where I start on all the deck fittings and rigging. Quite a challenge and lots to work out, as plans need to be researched and carefully reviewed and interpretations implemented. Enjoying it though. Look forward to following your progress. Best regards.
Donny A