mojofilter

Thanks so much for the photos!!  As you said, many differences.  Some of the most noticable are:
Height of bulwarks - not even knee high on the replica.
She has a wheel as opposed to a tiller (and an engine evidently).
The main mast appears to have only two shroud lines.
 
Beautiful deck!!! The fitting is outstanding!  As with most kits of this scale, the kit decking is certainly not to scale.  4mm wide deck planks would be almost 10 1/2" wide in real life.  I've seen folks change to 2mm wide planks but I don't think it shows as well.
 
Clearly the replica has been adjusted for sailability, safety, etc.  Not knowing any better at this point, I'll stick to the kit plans.  I would however be very interested in any referances/photos of the original (circa 1851-1860).
 
Thanks again!
 
- Tim

Thanks so much for the photos!!  As you said, many differences.  Some of the most noticable are:
Height of bulwarks - not even knee high on the replica.
She has a wheel as opposed to a tiller (and an engine evidently).
The main mast appears to have only two shroud lines.
 
Beautiful deck!!! The fitting is outstanding!  As with most kits of this scale, the kit decking is certainly not to scale.  4mm wide deck planks would be almost 10 1/2" wide in real life.  I've seen folks change to 2mm wide planks but I don't think it shows as well.
 
Clearly the replica has been adjusted for sailability, safety, etc.  Not knowing any better at this point, I'll stick to the kit plans.  I would however be very interested in any referances/photos of the original (circa 1851-1860).
 
Thanks again!
 
- Tim

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Nice start to the copper plating David!!  Do you plan to keep it shiney (i.e. coat it right away), let it age (oxidize) naturally, or patina it somehow?
I have Cutty Sark in the hopefully near future, and the Constitution after that.  Both with real copper plates, so I'm looking for people's methodes.
I will be following your log with interest.
Thanks,
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim