Bender

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

The keel, stem, stern knee, stern post went together well. All these parts are laser cut from walnut.
 

 

 
The only thing that I needed to do was scrape and file the laser char off the glue joints.
 
The bulkheads are laser cut from plywood. Fit was near perfect.
 
.
 

 
The bulkheads are held in the proper position with wooden dowels. Each bulkhead has two or four holes, and the dowel is inserted.
 

 
These dowels help hold the bulkheads all level with each other and keeps them square. If a bulkhead is not seated correctly, the dowels will not slip through the hole.
 

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

Originally posted June 22, 2009.
 
 The kit supplied 48 laser cut plywood steps.
 
There was nothing to do but sand these pieces. These step pieces were then glued to a piece of dowel, forming a spiral. The curved rails were then glued to the spiral steps. It took a lot of sanding and staining to cover up the ply layers in the plywood steps. Total time for the six stair cases was nearly 50 hours: over 8 hours per step unit.
 
Step pieces.  Steps glued to the dowel, forming a spiral. Winding stair case ready to be installed.
 

 

 
Bunch of deck stuff ready to be glued 
 

 

 

 
The next 3 pictures show the stair cases in place.
 

 

 

 
 

Don't be tailgating me guns.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

A beam was added to the underside of the overdeck. 
 

 

 
This beam is the starting point for planking. The planks ran from this beam to the hull.
 

 
These last three pictures show the planks on the underside of the overdeck.
 

 

 

 
Notice that the keel and stems are no longer attached. After fitting these pieces they were removed until later to keep from damaging them.

Thanks, Frank, for the welcome back. It is nice to be back at it.
 
Just four picture for this post. This first picture shows half the port side finished.
 

 
 
This picture shows the last few outriggers on the port side going in. And you can see what the outriggers look like.
 

   
The frame work for the overdeck is nearly complete.
 

 

 
 
 

Here are some pictures I took outside. The oars are next.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

A little backtracking. Here are some pictures of yard being cut.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

More work on the main shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I was asked to repost this. This is an easy way of tying blocks to yards or mast. I have also used this to tie blocks to the underside of tops.
 
I start out with thicker thread. A little trial and error with different threads to get the look I want. Notice I have the thread folded three times and use a clip to hold the thread tight.

 
I use smaller thread to wrap around the thicker thread. I start out with a slip knot tied in the thinner thread, and stick the loop and loose end of the thicker thread through the knot.

 
The thinner thread has two ends. The end that pulls the slip knot tight and the end the pulls the loop through the knot.

 
I pull the loop tight against the thicker thread and use a second clip to hold the thinner thread in place.

 
I start wrapping the thin thread (The end that pulls the knot tight.) around the three layer of thick thread and the loop of the thin thread.

 
I make 7 to 10 or more wraps. Trail and error to get the look.
 
While wrapping and after, you have to hold the wraps to keep them from unwinding. Remove the one clip. Take the end of the thread you've been wrapping and pass it through the loop of the thin thread.

 
Still while holding the wraps to keep them from unwinding, pull on the other end of the thin thread to pull the loop tight around the end of the thin thread. Pull the thin thread tight but not too tight. If is too tight, it will be hard to pull the thicker thread through. Also, as you pull on the end of the thinner thread it will pull the loop and the other end on the thin thread into the wrap.

 
You now have a loop and a loose end of thicker thread sticking out each end of the thinner thread. Pulling the loose end on one side pulls the loop in on the other side. Put a block in one loop and pull the loop tight.

 
Slip the other end over a yard or mast. You can also start out with the loop already around something.

 
Pull that loop tight.

 
Add a drop or two of CA glue, and when it is dry snip of the loose ends. This picture shows two block tie to a yard.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I was asked to repost this. This is an easy way of tying blocks to yards or mast. I have also used this to tie blocks to the underside of tops.
 
I start out with thicker thread. A little trial and error with different threads to get the look I want. Notice I have the thread folded three times and use a clip to hold the thread tight.

 
I use smaller thread to wrap around the thicker thread. I start out with a slip knot tied in the thinner thread, and stick the loop and loose end of the thicker thread through the knot.

 
The thinner thread has two ends. The end that pulls the slip knot tight and the end the pulls the loop through the knot.

 
I pull the loop tight against the thicker thread and use a second clip to hold the thinner thread in place.

 
I start wrapping the thin thread (The end that pulls the knot tight.) around the three layer of thick thread and the loop of the thin thread.

 
I make 7 to 10 or more wraps. Trail and error to get the look.
 
While wrapping and after, you have to hold the wraps to keep them from unwinding. Remove the one clip. Take the end of the thread you've been wrapping and pass it through the loop of the thin thread.

 
Still while holding the wraps to keep them from unwinding, pull on the other end of the thin thread to pull the loop tight around the end of the thin thread. Pull the thin thread tight but not too tight. If is too tight, it will be hard to pull the thicker thread through. Also, as you pull on the end of the thinner thread it will pull the loop and the other end on the thin thread into the wrap.

 
You now have a loop and a loose end of thicker thread sticking out each end of the thinner thread. Pulling the loose end on one side pulls the loop in on the other side. Put a block in one loop and pull the loop tight.

 
Slip the other end over a yard or mast. You can also start out with the loop already around something.

 
Pull that loop tight.

 
Add a drop or two of CA glue, and when it is dry snip of the loose ends. This picture shows two block tie to a yard.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I am not very good at drawing but  . . .
 

 
The last four pictures shows different places I have used this method.
 
Around a yard.

 
Under a top. These blocks were added by passing the thicker thread around the cross tree before doing any warping.

 
All of these blocks are attached with this method. I used a variation of this method to attach the stay.

 
And one more

 
I lied.  One more.