Brucealanevans
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WalrusGuy reacted to a post in a topic:
USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Finished the transom and quarter gallery windows, and re-positioned a trim strip on the transom to make a more symmetric appearance and make certain of a constant height space for the decorative strip below the windows and the "CONFEDERACY" name letters. Next will be the decorations, but that will have to wait until after our 2 visits out east to put our Marblehead second home in order. The closeup makes the black paint look bad - much better in person. -
CiscoH reacted to a post in a topic:
USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Thanks I have a day or two so may work on the windows.
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JohnB40 reacted to a post in a topic:
USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Finished the transom and quarter galleries, ready for the windows. This involved a lot of re-work and not an inconsiderable amount of wood filler. Every slight error or discrepancy in the placement of the stern frames, side blocks, curve sanding, and placement of the initial planking strakes can add up. Doing this again, I'd be even more meticulous about precise placement with engraved lines, distances prescribed, and sanding the gentle curves of the stern and the transom prior to placement of the transom piece. I think building the rear of this model accurately, beginning with the frame
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WalrusGuy reacted to a gallery album:
Charles W Morgan MS 1:64 by Bruce Evans
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Charles W Morgan by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Model Shipways
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Charles W Morgan by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Model Shipways
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Charles W Morgan by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Model Shipways
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USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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USF Confederacy by Brucealanevans - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Brief side trip to install cap rail on the transom. note to those who follow : if you use the laser cut cap rails on either side (as I did) since the exposed 1/4 “ surface is cross grain it will stain darker than the thin strip in the middle that completes the cap rail. (Noted after staining by this builder. Not a huge deal but appearance would be improved if I had anticipated this) Maybe a sealant would help
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Finished the bulwark thinning. Not my favorite modeling job. Only working on the model a couple of hours a day so took a while. Now onto the quarter gallery construction!
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Chuck:
a quick Confederacy question.
when thinning bulwarks to 1/8 “ at the top, what should I aim at at the deck level so that everything works out for interior planking, deck planking, framing etc.thanks in advance.
bruce -
I need some help here from Confederacy veterans. I know I need to thin the bulwarks at the top to 1/8”. how thin do they need to be at the deck level for the deck planking to work out?
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Finished up the initial work on the stern and on the bases of the quarter galleries. Some of the alignment of the pieces was not perfect, but by and large I was able to compensate. Getting all those pieces starting with the stern frames and the associated bits in perfect alignment was the hardest thing on this build for me so far (except for the endless planking). Now on the the bulwark thinning (UGH). I have not been looking forward to this from the very start.
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Received my replacement piece from Model Expo. Shaped, stained, and fastened the sternpost on and trimmed the keel to fit. touched up some staining where worn by the clamps of the building board. In general, reasonably pleased. Not a great look at the bow where the planks below the wales meet the bow stem, but acceptable (except when I look at it of course) Now ready to start on the stern.
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While waiting for my replacement piece from Model Expo for the Confederacy, I got twitchy modeling fingers. So I turned to the very first ship model I built back around 1980 - Mantua Model 1:50 HMS Schooner Sharke. I don't remember exactly why I cut that project short after doing most of the rigging. I never properly dealt with the 2 yards after putting the uphauls on them. Just tied a string from mast top to top yard ends and down to main yard tips and then to a belaying pin just to hold them in place. Also didn't mount the falconets - as I recall had trouble getting the uprights fo
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Finished the planking. Only did a couple of strakes per day so took a while. A fair amount of fiddling. Didn't (I guess) taper the bow strakes enough so ended up having some severe tapering and several drop planks added to the final 2 belts. In the stern, ended up with the same problem, probably due to the fact that I wrapped the black painted wales around the stern but didn't take that into account when I started the planking below the wales and blindly added widened planks per instructions. Overall, met my goal of not requiring filler/painting so I'll be able to clear finish the plankin
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After planking 10 strakes below the wales on both sides, I inspected the bow configuration. I was very unhappy with the job, and determined that the line was wrong, especially with the planks diverging away from the foremost bulkhead. The problem appeared to be insufficient/downright wrong faring of the block in front of the bulkhead leading into the stem, which should have been gradually beveled better as it moves down towards the keel. The error forced a more bluff contour to the planks which then could not fully contact the first bulkhead. Ugh. So, with a heavy heart, I removed th
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Finished port side first planking belt below the wales. Only doing perhaps 2 strakes per day - each plank, especially at bow and stern - is a mini project with bending, twisting, beveling, etc, to try and get it neat enough that no filler or painting over filler required. Would like to be able to just give a wipe on poly finish to these planks. The edgewise bending jig included in the kit is a real life-saver! Bow especially hard and a bit wonky on this side, but overall looks ok. Have given the planks a preliminary sanding to make sure of the look and fit. Will clean up the meeting
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Just finished the starboard side above the wales. Now ready to begin planking below the wales. My goal is to go slowly, treat each plank as a project, and strive for an acceptable look without having to resort to filler and painting. We shall see. Reasonably happy with the look so far. Measuring midships yields 33 1/8 “ planks. Plan 11 in initial belt in this building board configuration on each side before turning her over to work on the bottom belt.
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Finished painting and molding strips on the port side. Reasonably happy with this so far. I do need help: Looking ahead to planking below the wales I see the strakes at the rear are run off the frame and sanded smooth prior to adding the stern post which, according to the instructions "will be added later" The finished pictures of the planking below the wales before beginning work on the quarter galleries and the stern, however, show the stern post in place. I can't find in the instructions where and exactly how it is added, which seems to involve making an appropriate hole in t
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