Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Brucealanevans

  • Birthday 03/10/1949

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

1,749 profile views
  1. Finished the inner bulwarks and painted them. Placed a few of the beams to double check that all was shipshape and symmetric. Glad to have reached this point, with mainly deck work to go for a while (to say nothing of lots of cannons). Speaking of which, I am undecided as to whether to fully rig the cannons other than the main rope, given that this is an admiralty model and I do plan on leaving half of the quarter deck unplanked to show both the construction and allow a view of the underlying quarter deck compartment. I'm sure a double take at the size of the blocks involved and
  2. Thanks for the likes. Each time I make a decision about what to do next I lean towards something “different”. Don’t think I’ll ever build another masted gunship. Been there done that. If I ever finish this build I believe the galley is next. After a visit to Malta a few years ago I will modify the La Real (Dusek) to at least resemble a Knights of Malta galley from the era of the Great Siege.
  3. Yup there is a lot of exacting work in the construction of this hull. I have a Dusek galley and Grenado in my stash but I don’t know if I’ll get to them. I’ll be working on the Confederacy for some time yet. would like to build the galley but may give the grenado away. I have a very fiddly Fokker triplane model I’ll eager to build. I may take that to our second home to work on when we spend time there, as I would only need a smaller set of tools and no need for my power tools or airbrush stuff. Running out of display room in the house anyway - 5 ships not including the current p
  4. Milestone of sorts today. I finished the exterior of the hull - rudder constructed and placed, and photo-etch bits including the sweep port hinges. Next work day begins work on the interior! In general I'm reasonably pleased with things so far, given that this model is at the bleeding edge of my abilities. I didn't want to take the rudder off after the number of times I had pins snap off, so I've decided to leave it in place and fix it with a couple of clamps (removed for the pictures) to protect it from inadvertent forced movement.
  5. No I didn’t use those. In fact once the false deck is on the holes for the short mast “stubs” - this is an admiralty model - are quite shallow with the central spine of the frame just below the holes. I suppose if one wanted to do a fully rigged model one could cut out from the frame and use those for support. or they’re just for setting the angle of the abbreviated masts. But then why 2 of each. mid PM Chuck P and ask him.
  6. Returned from a month at our second place in Marblehead, MA (no shipyard in the house there at this point) and got back to work on this monster of a model. Have finished up the stern and quarter galleries with all decorative trim items. Pretty happy with the result given all of the minor mis-alignments, insufficient sandings to follow the prescribed curves, and so on causing multiple work-arounds to have things at least OK in the end. Unfortunately, it does look like the yard-hand putting the letters on the stern had a bit too much grog. End of a chapter. I cleaned up the s
  7. Quick question: I was curiously trying to fit the drop decoration metal piece underneath the quarter gallery. The instructions say it is notched for the wale, but it isn't, and for it to fit a truly prodigious amount of filing would be necessary to create a notch to allow it to lie against the sides so that the upper surface of the casting fits against the "floor" of the quarter gallery. Is it supposed to be notched as the instructions imply/say? Do I need to request replacements if they are (now) notched? I shudder to think of the work and metal dust that will be required/creat
  8. Finished the transom and quarter gallery windows, and re-positioned a trim strip on the transom to make a more symmetric appearance and make certain of a constant height space for the decorative strip below the windows and the "CONFEDERACY" name letters. Next will be the decorations, but that will have to wait until after our 2 visits out east to put our Marblehead second home in order. The closeup makes the black paint look bad - much better in person.
  9. Finished the transom and quarter galleries, ready for the windows. This involved a lot of re-work and not an inconsiderable amount of wood filler. Every slight error or discrepancy in the placement of the stern frames, side blocks, curve sanding, and placement of the initial planking strakes can add up. Doing this again, I'd be even more meticulous about precise placement with engraved lines, distances prescribed, and sanding the gentle curves of the stern and the transom prior to placement of the transom piece. I think building the rear of this model accurately, beginning with the frame
  10. Brief side trip to install cap rail on the transom. note to those who follow : if you use the laser cut cap rails on either side (as I did) since the exposed 1/4 “ surface is cross grain it will stain darker than the thin strip in the middle that completes the cap rail. (Noted after staining by this builder. Not a huge deal but appearance would be improved if I had anticipated this) Maybe a sealant would help
  11. Finished the bulwark thinning. Not my favorite modeling job. Only working on the model a couple of hours a day so took a while. Now onto the quarter gallery construction!
  12. Chuck:

    a quick Confederacy question. 
    when thinning bulwarks to 1/8 “ at the top, what should I aim at at the deck level so that everything works out for interior planking, deck planking, framing etc. 

    thanks in advance. 

  13. I need some help here from Confederacy veterans. I know I need to thin the bulwarks at the top to 1/8”. how thin do they need to be at the deck level for the deck planking to work out?
  • Create New...