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xodar461

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  1. I'd be game for the Thermopylae kit, and think that twice the postage would help compensate for the trouble of shipping.  I'm located between Philadelphia and Reading PA, and USPS would be fine.  You can e-mail me:   johnsymborski@aol.com  with instructions to buy the kit 'as is'.  Of course there will be TLC needed to build her.

    1. Show previous comments  12 more
    2. Snug Harbor Johnny

      Snug Harbor Johnny

      Ahoy Jeff !  The package came today intact ... thanks.  It looks like virtually everything is there, and I'm not going to start it until my present Wasa wood build is done.  I've seen a couple logs showing what can be done with the Revell Cutty Sark kit - in terms of augmenting the detail and improving (busting?) the model to a much higher level.  Wooden deadeyes and blocks being just two examples.  Something similar is doable with the Thermopylae 'sister' kit.  Meanwhile, I'll gather more info on the 'Big T'.   Johnny

    3. xodar461

      xodar461

      Great.  Let me know if you do a build log for it so I can follow along

       

      Jeff

    4. Snug Harbor Johnny

      Snug Harbor Johnny

        I intend to do a log, and there are a few ideas cooking already.  For one thing, most recognize that the Revell Thermopylae in many aspects is made from the Cutty Sark molds.  There should have been an 'Aberdeen bow' (as opposed to the relative sharp angle of the Cutty), and the angle of the stern went way out further (opposed to the Cutty's sharp change of angle).  I could go on, and the kind of modifications to make the plastic hull of conform to known pictures and models of Thermopylae are complicated.  The other course would be to so a scratch wooden hull, install the plastic deck as a 'false' deck (so the masts, and pother gear can cement properly) then planking over the plastic deck with thin veneer strips.  It would be a shame to loose all the great detail in the copper (or Munsey metal) sheathing - so a 'hybrid' approach is possible ... The lower part of the plastic hull could be used (with the bow attached and fitted with an internal wood skeleton that would be planked down to the sheathing.  The plastic false decks could still be used (with modifications) and still be covered in thin wood veneer planking.  Many of the fittings are usable from the kit, but some of the spars and upper masts could be re-done in wood - like some of the nicer kit busts.  I have a lot to sort out, and also a wood kit to finish.  Johnny

  2. I have the following items for sale: Revel Thermopylae - this was given as a gift, however I don't do plastic models. The kit seems to be quite old and the box condition is poor (looks like it was kept in an attic for several years, maybe decades). I think all the pieces are present but there is no way to be sure. Very few came off the sprues and these I placed in a ziplock bag; the condition of the pieces seems to be good. The paper instructions are on the brittle side but not to the point of falling apart. Here are some pics"
  3. Greetings! work in progress on the main shrouds. futtock shrouds also mostly done on one side. I left the rope and seizing natural color so as to better see how the shrouds run and how they are seized to the main shrouds Jeff
  4. Greetings! Fore top mast shrouds now complete Onto the main mast. photo below shows the developing birds nest of lines while i do the shrouds and lanyards. The first 4 are in place and the aft 4 have been secured at the mast head and marked (see blue tape) so as not to mix them up when it comes time to do the lanyards. My process is to first serve the appropriate length that goes around the masthead, then seize it close to the masthead and the bring them through the top, alternating side to side beginning on the starboard. The shrouds are left long and
  5. Hi Chris, Would any of your boat kits or lanterns work for the Revenge kit you designed or would they be too "advanced" for that period? Jeff (build log for the Revenge under xodar461)
  6. Greetings Kirill, your English is just fine in your posts and I have enjoyed reading them! Lower shrouds of the fore mast are now complete as are the futtocks. First 2 pics show how I keep the ratlines even. Next 2 show the final result. You may notice that the tackles have been undone on the photos above. They would have gotten in the way when the ratlines are placed so they were temporarily disconnected from the channel. This can be seen with the main tackles in the next 2 photos. The fore tackles were replaced upon completion of t
  7. Hi Jonathan, After reviewing you last few posts and Kirill's replies, I thought I would add my 2 cents. One reason things might not look "right" may be due to the thickness of the futtock shrouds. The kit plans call for 1.3 mm rope for the main fore shrouds and 0.75 mm for the futtock and topmast shrouds. The same diameter rope is called for on the corresponding main mast. However, the rope sizes for the shrouds are slightly different from the fore to the main and the sizes used for the kit instructions seem to be too big for the scale of the ship. Sizes of all rop
  8. Hi Kirill I appreciate your help and loved the historical paintings you provided. I do plan to put sails on. I plan on having the ship displayed at anchor with the sails partially drawn up, maybe the mizzen or bonaventure sails furled. I plan on using silkspan as the sail cloth provided in the kit is out of scale (much too thick). I have a sheet of plexiglass with the waterline cut out that the ship will sit in that will eventually be finished to simulate water (I hope). I have a phot of this that I will soon post. Never have done sails so that will be an adventure. The kit
  9. Hi Kirill Your second post really got me thinking so i decided to check things out. First I marked where the bowsprit met the deck and then measured that compared to the height of the foremast from deck to cap as you suggested. I found that the bowsprit was just a few MM short from the top of the cap so I think I have the correct length. So then I placed the bowsprit in it's deck opening and hung the spritsail yard and this is what I came up with... This seems to be close to the correct position as seen in your reference photos. I think the problem lies
  10. Hi Kirill Thanks for your input on the bowsprit. BTW, your galleon is amazing. The length of the bowsprit in kit is 363 mm. An often used reference for me is Historic Ship Models by Wofram zu Mondfeld. According to his tables of mast dimensions, an English galleon of 1570 would have a bowsprit length of 2.235 x the ship's beam. Using my model as a reference, I measured a the beam to be ~160 mm which would translate to a bowsprit length of 357 mm. The diameter of the bowsprit at the deck would be 0.028 x L of bowsprit, or ~10 mm, which is what the kit calls for. I did no
  11. Greetings! work on the fore shrouds now in progress. The fore-most shroud on the fore and main mast are typically served and the serving tool from Syren has been invaluable The eye of the shroud that goes around the mast is also served. Shrouds are placed in pairs and alternate from side to side starting on the starboard side. Photo below shows a close up of the shrouds at the masthead once the shrouds were placed, work on the deadeyes and and lanyards can begin. Before placing the upper deadeye, the lower ones (which had been stropped earlier with
  12. As with the post above, I use a standard hand held drill. it is easy to do for mast - just stick one end in the drill and sand to desired thickness. I like to leave the dowel long to account for the part that is in the drill chuck as the chuck will leave indentations on the wood. This can be sawed off later. I do yards with a drill as well but with some modification as both ends need to be tapered, unlike the mast. The yard is cut longer than needed (again to account for the part of the yard in the chuck. Once one side is sanded then the other side will need to be cut to the correct leng
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