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xodar461

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  1. As with the post above, I use a standard hand held drill. it is easy to do for mast - just stick one end in the drill and sand to desired thickness. I like to leave the dowel long to account for the part that is in the drill chuck as the chuck will leave indentations on the wood. This can be sawed off later. I do yards with a drill as well but with some modification as both ends need to be tapered, unlike the mast. The yard is cut longer than needed (again to account for the part of the yard in the chuck. Once one side is sanded then the other side will need to be cut to the correct leng
  2. Greetings The masts and yards are now complete with all necessary blocks attached. The first lines have been placed...the main tackles. The falls are not yet cut as I like to leave the extra on in case lines need to be adjusted later. The rope coils will be added to the belaying pins when the lines are cut. The tool below is quite useful for seizing blocks. Shrouds and ratlines come after the tackles. I'll try to post some pics as they are completed Jeff
  3. Hi Jonathan: I would check the orientation of your blocks. the ones seen on the first photo above seem to be upside down...the "holes" in the block (meant to represent the opening for the rope to pass over the pulley inside the block) should be oriented so that it is closest to where the block is seized. This photo below (though not very good) illustrates this. The blue line is the block strop, the black is the seizing (the "blue" rope above the seizing will be what gets tied around the yard) and the red is the line that passes through the block. I am not a big fan of the block
  4. I am currently building the 1577 Revenge ( Amati) and I was wondering if anyone can help with a question regarding when serving of ropes that go around the masthead (and the forward most shroud) began. Only reference I could find was in in zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models where he states that the foremost shroud on each mast was "wormed parcelled and served from the first half of the sixteenth century on" and from the middle of the sixteenth century on, the eye round the masthead was also served. The ship's scale is big enough that it won't be a problem to do it and it would make a noti
  5. Hi Jonathan. Looking good. I recommend putting all the blocks on the yards before mounting them. The mizzen and bonaventure yards don't have many blocks so it should not be a problem putting them on with the yards already attached, however it may be a problem with the main and fore yards as they have many more blocks (8-10 on each yard). Jeff
  6. The parrels look good to me The brand of paint I use is called model masters by Testors. I got it at Hobby Lobby. Jeff
  7. Hi Jonathan: re paint: I use flat black acrylic - easy to apply with brush and clean up with water. I good finish can be obtained with several coats and light sanding in between coats with very fine sandpaper or steel wool. I'll have a few pics soon of the yards on my build. I am almost finished with attaching all the blocks. As far as the parrels, this pic may help. although it is about 50 years ahead of the Revenge, I think it is a good way to attach them to the yards. the 2 loose ends can be simply tied around the yard (red arrows) as it is one continuous line.
  8. Jonathan: regarding your question about the relationship of the masts to the decks...the foremast is pretty easy as there is not much depth to the hole it goes through. the profile of the ship (plan 4) shows on what deck the main and mizzen mast sit. The lengths of these 2 masts as shown on the plans is correct and you should have no problem seating these 2 as long as the decks were properly placed. The bonaventure mast needs some adjustment. Plan 4 shows that it sits on the quarter deck however there is an opening on the quarter deck (see first photo page 39) for this mast so
  9. Greetings! I am currently working on masts and yards. here are a few pics... first one shows the components to the main mast including to mainmast, topmast,flagstaff and main yard main top The masts start as round walnut dowels and have a square top ( and bottom for the topmast). Here's how i do it. The dowel in secured in a vise with some scrap wood to protect the mast from getting marked up by the vise. the top is then sanded flat with a file, but only to 1/2 the thickness that will ultimately need to be removed (i.e., the mainmast is a 10 mm dowel and
  10. Hi Jonathan Great job on you ship so far! I would not get too hung up on specific locations for the eyebolts as when the ship is complete and rigged they will hardly be noticed. The main thing is not to have different sizes in one area. As such, I recommend using the larger ones on: 1. the hatch coamings (forecastle, main and quarterdeck - 22 total) 2. main and mizzen mast base (8) 3. last 6 go on the deck near the main base (4) and mizzen base (2) this will use up all 36 large bolts and you will have consistent sizes in the same areas. All ot
  11. hi Jonathan, I've enjoyed following along with your building log. A few suggestions from a been there, done that perspective...to get a good curve on the 1x2 mm wood strips, soak several strips of the appropriate length in water until they no longer float. then stack them together and clamp to a pot of a diameter that is close to the curve you want and let dry thoroughly. the wood can then be easily worked to the correct curve with minimal stress on the wood. This worked well for me. As for the bow, I snapped mine off early into the build. I did not try to repair until it was
  12. Greetings! Gunports (and corresponding ropes to open them) and deadeye channels have been placed. All pretty straightforward. The channels each have 2 pins that go into the hull to help secure them. Next the curved beams on the port and starboard balcony were placed. Instructions call for a pin to be put on the end of the beam that goes against the hull. To me this presented a possible problem with final placement as the hole in the hull would have to be perfect the first time - no second chances given that these beams are glued again
  13. Greetings, I am currently constructing the Revenge and I would like to display the ship at anchor in calm seas as she may have been seen of the coast of Spain in the Sea of Cadiz. Modelling water will be a first for me. I have the book "Waterline Dioramas" and the author mentions using textured Plexiglas that would simulate the small swells seen in calm seas. My idea is use a template to to cut the Plexiglas at the waterline - the ship will then sit in the cutout after the Plexiglas is painted. Photo below shows this using a cardboard template (taken from my build log).
  14. Greetings...on to the bow First order of business was to repair the stem. 2 pieces had to be glued back in place (red arrows in pic below). This would be a weak spot if not for the platform supports that sit in the slots on both sides of the break. Once the platform is in place there should be little chance of breakage from the bowsprit gammoning. Once all of the supports are in place the platform is glued to the supports. If the bow was planked / shaped properly, little to no sanding is required to achieve a good fit. Next, a small strip is used to line the
  15. Thanks for the kind comments. re: next build log, i have no idea at this time what is up next as I still have a fair amount to do with this ship. I usually don't start thinking about the next project until my current one is almost done. And who knows what may be available at that time - so many interesting projects from Syren, Vanguard and CAF. Who knows, maybe the 1:64 Victory from Amati will be released by then! Jeff
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