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About Ken_2

  • Birthday 09/21/1949

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    Sailing, Hiking, Photography, Family, Christianity, Chess, Go, Electronic design.

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  1. Now for my next big screwup! The instruction booklet says to “…rub a light grey window putty or similar material into the score lines of the planking…”. I was unable to find a grey window putty so I used grey plumbers putty. 1st, the putty would not come off the planks. It filled the lines very nice, but seemed to cling to the deck finish. Some kind of oil that resisted removal. I was unable to remove the plumber putty off the deck by rubbing. 2nd the web said mineral spirits will remove plumbers putty, which I applied. This removed some of the putty and lots of the polyureth
  2. I painted the margin boards and “dry fit” them where they will be placed. I then adjusted the top deck again by filing. Once they looked good, I marked a spot on the margin board just forward of the bulkhead. Before I glued the board down, I drilled a small hole in the margin board to start my x-acto blade cutting. I then glued the margin board and starting carving a spot for the stanchions. Once the hole was close to the right size and right place, I filed the hole with a small 3mm square file to complete the hole. I used a small piece of the stanchion to ensure it fit.
  3. Well, … it did not turnout as well as I hoped. There were 2 issues. 1) The top deck halves were symmetrical and looked like they fit well, but they did not. I needed to inspect much closer. It was difficult to dry fit this all together with millimeter accuracy and I missed some adjustments. After gluing the top deck on, I found a small gap between the halves mostly showing at the fore and aft sections. 2) The port side top deck is 1.5 mm closer to the outboard planks than it was supposed to be, leaving little room for the stanchions and no room for the margin planks between the stanchio
  4. I used wood filler in a few more uneven spots on the bottom planks and sanded again. Next, I used a “rattle can” surface primer by Tamiya and sealed the bottom. I used a classic oak wood stain on the top deck, followed by brushing on a Satin finish polyurethane. I also revisited the holes for the stanchions and clarified the size and location of the holes on the subdeck. I marked where the margin planks fit on the subdeck. Hopefully, I will be able to glue the margin deck on the top and then cut stanchion openings at just the right size. I then glued the top deck on the sub deck, m
  5. The next steps are to install the top deck, the paint the margin boards, cut and install the bow sprint and knightheads, and install the stanchions. As I ponder all of this and work out the sequence, I notice very little is said about the knightheads! In real life were these 4x12’s? While I am waiting to go out and get some medium dark stain, and wood sealer for the bottom planks, I chose to place the wood filler in the bottom, and sand the planks as smooth as I can. I may sand and fill one more time, but each of the last times I sanded with 800, it did not seem to get much better.
  6. Now I will use this practice sub-deck as a template to mark small holes in the real sub-deck. Below is the sub-deck glued to the boat.
  7. Next I started the stanchion and subdeck assembly. I am going to try and follow the instructions and cut square holes in the subdeck, glue it on and place the stanchions later. The subdeck seems to fit very nice. I traced and cut a new sub-deck so I could practice cutting these stanchion holes. I cut the holes as close to the bulkhead as I could. I cut the holes small, so I could enlarge them to be close to the bulkhead and side as possible.
  8. Not much progress on the boat this last week. I’ve had more important things to do. Its hard to believe that anything can take precedence over model boat building, (ha ha) but grandkids, preparation for Christmas, and the wife’s minor surgical procedure seem to trump my hobby! I did manage to sand the bottom.
  9. Thanks MrBlueJacket (Nic?) I plan to buy the "half Hull" planking kit as it looks very interesting. Also I have a question at the end of this next upload. Do I make the knightheads or did I misplace them?
  10. These last 4 planks have been challenging. I found that bending the next plank resulted in too much twisting. Maybe stealers in between the middle planks would have been easier or the correct method. Anyway, I am committed to learning about planking via no stealers. So, it seems I am back to spiling the last 4 planks. I cut some cardboard to fill the gap and transferred it to my sheet of basswood and cut out a plank at a time. I measured the gap, divided the distance in half, and marked the first plank with the desired width. After some smoothing, shaping, etc. I glued the plank i
  11. It looks like I will be able to narrow the planks such that I can fit all planks from bow to stern. Except for one wedge. I trimmed some paper to outline the gap, and made two wedges.
  12. I’ve decided not to spile any remaining planks for this boat. I found that fitting the wet wood into the desired curved shape and then pressing down where the wood bows, all while the glue is drying is adequate – and faster. I will continue to spile a plank or two on future boats to gain proficiency, but not here. As I add planks, it still looks like I can taper those in the front to keep all planks running fore and aft, except for one wedge in the back by the rudder. I got careless when shortening the planks hanging over the stern and cut one too short and I scored t
  13. Four Planks have been installed on each side. Now I need to see if I can taper the planks such that all can fit from the bow to the stern without stealers. But before I go further, I need to understand how these planks terminate at the stern. And now that I have researched the stern, I see I need to understand the rudder and rudder post. As to the spiling the plank. It was a good exercise. There was definitely less twist and the plank laid flatter. But I still need to sand and fill some, so I am not sure the effort will result in a better result.
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