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rodgerdodger

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About rodgerdodger

  • Birthday 01/13/1939

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woodend, Australia
  • Interests
    Ship modelling, R/C flying, Bridge

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  1. I experienced exactly the same problem and occasionally wondered if I had taken too much off when cleaning the laser burn. It wasn't a problem during the trial assembly as the hatch framings and the braces supplied were adequate to hold the frames together, although at times as you aptly describe you could do with six pairs of hands. However when you start to instal (glue) the frames, i.e. frame 1 it is essential to check it for plumb and alignment and it allow it to set firmly before installing further frames. All the other frames are then installed relative to frame 1 using the hatch framings and temporary braces. Glad to hear you are making a start. I have been diverted from modelling for a moment to house duties now that spring is here and the lawn needs mowing etc.
  2. I am now installing the lodging knees to the underside of the port and starboard edges of the deck. A feature new to me. While providing support between the hull frames they also provide a base for placing the first plank to the hull. Very fiddly small pieces and test the patience as it is necessary to remove laser burn and round edges. Having painted the frames I decided I had to paint the knees especially as a part of each knee can be seen when looking down on the deck. The picture shows the port side knees installed ready for final paint. I painted the knees in two steps, before and after installing, for ease of handling. The starboard knees are lined up ready prior to cleaning and painting.
  3. I hope you enjoy the model as I have - so far at least. I continue to be impressed how everything fits together very well, like a 3 dimensional puzzle, with some modelling skills required along the way. I look forward to hearing how you might tackle the plywood issue.
  4. Now the fun starts installing the frames on the keel, starting with frame 1. I had to make sure it was square with the keel as the frame did not sit as tightly on to the keel after removing laser burn. Also it was necessary to check that the frame was plumb by sighting along the keel, and the centre post of frame 1 helped in in this regard. I prepared the lower deck in accordance with the manual, scribing the deck layout on the underside and sealing with matt polyurethane. Contrary to the instructions I installed (but not glued) the four frames supporting the lower deck on the keel to be sure that the frames and deck lined up with frame 1. I trial fitted then glued the lower deck to the four frames and removed the assembly when the glue was set. I followed the instructions and installed frames 2-4, using the companion way beams for alignment. The beams are then removed to install the lower deck assembly but I could not reinstall the beams without cutting them into two sections. I can’t see any way this could have been avoided and it is not mentioned in the instruction manual. While installing the frames and lower deck assembly it was essential to keep checking the alignment of the frames by sighting along the centre line of the deck. The installation of the remaining frame proceeded without any hiccups. When it came to the frames X to D and the main hatch I was able to avoid the problem of installing the hatch beams without having to cut them as for the companion way. The answer is to install frames X and D and glue into place the side beams to assist with alignment. Then instal frame B by weaving it around the side beams followed by the centre beam. Then frames A and C can be installed by weave the frames around the beams. Clear as mud I’m sure! Now for the main deck. I prepared the main deck as per the manual, again scribing the deck layout on the underside, and treating with matt polyurethane. The deck piece in 2mm ply is delicate, especially the outer edge pieces and I managed to break it – twice. I found the edge notches to accommodate the frame were very tight indeed and had to be widened to fit comfortably rather than having to exert too much pressure to make the deck fit, thus risk a breakage. I had a couple of trial runs fitting the deck into position before taking the plunge to glue it. I have been using PVA glue so far on this model to allow a bit of time to get things into final position before the glue sets. It does require a bit of patience to allow one piece to set before moving on to the next.
  5. I hope you don’t have to wait too long to receive the model kit, Chief. I see that you are also in lockdown now so will have time to work on the model? Oak might have been the timber used in the actual full size ship but I don’t think they would have used oak in the Admiralty Models but to be honest I don’t know what they would have used. Having decided to paint the frames I had to work out what colour. I tried using a colour similar to a light wood but found the result too artificial and it looked just like painted wood. So I finally decided to be different, go bold and paint the frames red. Hopefully it will be a good contrast with the natural timber look of the deck and the black edge rails etc. It was easy to eliminate any alternative colours such as blue, yellow, green etc. I firstly sealed the frames then applied two coats of modellers acrylic flat red paint. Even then it has not obscured the ply veneers or the etched numbers but it has certainly helped to camouflage them. The edge of the lid of the kit box provided a handy drying rack.
  6. I certainly do plan to continue with the build log but I am in the middle of a long pause at the moment, aided and abetted by the Covid lockdown restrictions in Victoria. My idea of camouflaging the ply has come unstuck as the end product was not to my satisfaction. Fortunately I had treated just a couple of frames before I backtracked on the idea. I think I am going to have to paint all the plywood. Taking my time to think it through and make sure I am on the right track.
  7. All the fore frames now completed and positioned. Hatch and mast framing installed that helps to keep the frames in place. Note nothing has been glued into place – all dry fitted. Dry assembly of bow block components. Took a bit of pushing and shoving and broke a piece in the process (the first one). Note fairing lines again. Assembly placed on bow in final location but not glued. There appears to be an out of level alignment between bow assembly and the connecting frame that will have to tackled later. Now installing frames aft of centre frame together with further hatch framing that helps to hold everything together and in place for the time being. This is an interesting feature that you don’t see on typical plank on frame models. The final three frames, as the hull tapers to the stern transom, are not made in a flat plane, but are angled. A jig is provided with templates of each frame to assist with this task and to get the angle correct. I discovered that the templates are not exactly to size and it was important to check the gap to take the top deck beam before gluing the joint. Have reached the stage where all frames are now made and installed. Have also installed the temporary braces between the frames that hold everything in the correct position and help to check deck alignment etc. The project so far has been similar to a 3-dimensional jigsaw puzzle getting the numbered pieces in the right position with some modelling work here and there. Very well engineered and every part fits snugly. I now have to dismantle the whole lot for final cleaning and sanding. Took a couple of hours to clean all components of laser burn and final sand. For the moment keeping frames assembled on keel for convenience. No matter how much I sanded the frames (the plywood is made of soft wood and sands easily so you can overdo it not careful) it was not possible to eliminate the laser burns evident in the edges. So the problem of solving the appearance of the ply frames etc. has to be addressed. I selected a piece of excess ply left from the laser cut boards. I sealed the ply including the edge with sealer (Feast Watson that I had from another project) and applied stains that I happened to have in the cupboard. The top layer is Wedge, the second Jarrah and the third Baltic Pine. It is obvious that regardless of the colour the stain does not conceal the ply layers. It requires an opaque layer such as paint before applying the stain. For the 4th layer I applied a coating of white acrylic gloss hobby paint to the edge. I didn’t notice it was gloss until later so I used white acrylic flat hobby paint for the 5th layer. Not perfect but a much better result than leaving the edges as is. I like the Baltic Pine colour but I don’t know if it is appropriate for this type of model. However, the big question is do I really want to take the time to seal every component, paint the edges (inner and outer) with paint and finally stain them? Time to pause and take a break.
  8. Having built a total 14 ship models, I thought it was time to give modelling a rest. However, I saw the kit for the Mary Byrne Admiralty Model by Modellers Shipyard. I have always admired the admiralty models on display in nautical museums for their detail and the quality of workmanship by craftsmen who did not have the sophisticated equipment that we enjoy today. Plus an advantage of the admiralty model is that there is no detailed rigging and the emphasis is on the timber work. If I had looked more closely at the picture of the finished model I might have had second thoughts about buying it (more about that later) but I didn’t and bought it on impulse. Having bought it I had to make it! First impression on opening the box is positive. Good quality looking materials and a comprehensive building manual in A3 size with photos of each stage, but no drawings (not that that should be a problem). The majority of components are in 5mm plywood. The deck planking is laser etched that is normally a negative but in this kit it is done very well with etched nailing and joint details etc. The model is very small that should not have been a surprise as the dimensions were known when I bought it but being small it means lots of small fiddly components. Another challenge. Having made a start assembling the very simple base, making the first frames and placing in position, a few issues have become evident at this early stage. The plywood is 5 ply 5mm thick and it is a challenge to release and press out the laser cut components, especially when small. The components, especially the small ones, have to chiselled out carefully with an appropriate exacto blade. Secondly the part numbers have been laser etched onto each piece. Although small the numbers are going to be unsightly in the finished model so would like to disguise them somehow, or maybe they will be lost in the background. Will wait and see. The major issue however is the cleaning of the laser cut burn from each piece, as many of the edges will be exposed in the finished product. I am cleaning as much as I can each piece as I go (the Dremel is proving very useful) and plan a final clean at later stage. Even when you remove all the burn the plywood veneers are clearly visible – not a good look for an admiralty model. This is a blemish clearly evident in the finished model photo provided with the kit. Will have to think about how to disguise the look of the plywood in the finished model. The first stage is to build the frames forward of the central frame towards the bow. For the information of anybody who might use this log for their project I have come across the first problem with the instructions. Frame A is incorrectly illustrated (being a repeat of frame oXo) that had me bamboozled for a while. A good feature of the kit is that fairing of the frames towards the bow is simplified with the fairing lines etched on to the frames. Easier than fairing the frames after installing them.
  9. Hi Tony Unfortunately I am unable to assist you with your problem. I tried the Amati version of the Bedford Whaleboat and abandoned the model as I found it too difficult, even though I consider myself an experienced boat modeller. I note that Sarge did not continue with his build log and there are another couple of unfinished logs of the same model on the web site. I have wondered if they suffered the same problem. Not good news for you I'm afraid. I don't know if it is your first model and if so there are many other models that would be a good introduction to the hobby. Rodger
  10. Well done Mike - a great job. In reading your log I sense the same frustration that I felt with all the 'fiddly bits' and achieving the tight tolerances that the model requires. You did well to finish it in four months as it contains a bit more detail than the Amati version that I built, especially on the hull. There is more than you might think in building the RE Lee but I agree with you - it is well worth the effort. Roger
  11. Kit Review The Amati kit is a quality kit and with a couple of exceptions noted in the log the materials are very good. Quantities of timber etc. were quite adequate. I actually have eight metal doors remaining and I wondered for a while if I had missed anything! The instructions are very clear but as usual they tell you what to do but not how to do it and they do not identify any checks regarding alignment etc. that should be made as you progress. For example despite components being laser cut they may still require work to get them to the correct shape/size etc. It may look like the model goes together like a meccano set but don’t be fooled, it is not as easy as that. The scale of 1:150 means that you are dealing with small items and any minor misalignment stands out like the proverbial. It certainly tested my patience. As an example I have never before had to use tweezers as much as I did on this model! The balustrades and railings were the biggest challenge and I had to substitute styrene for the timber provided to get the job done. One attraction was the minimum amount of rigging but what there is was small and fiddly. I used CA extensively in the construction, where PVA was inappropriate and epoxy far too slow, more so than on any of my earlier models. According to this log I have been working on the RE Lee for 10 months and that seems a long time. However I am a part time modeler and I am guessing that I spent the equivalent of a full day and half each week working on it. Well worth the time I reckon.
  12. I am relieved to say I have finally finished except for making some additional deck cargo items, but I am keen to close out this log. A few pictures follow and a final review of the kit for anyone who wants to take on this model. I am not one hundred percent happy with the finished product due to some errors, misalignments etc. and the weathering could have been much better but at my stage in life my emphasis has been more on getting the job finished! Having placed the model in its final resting place, amongst some of the other models in my collection, its unique design and colouring makes it stand out from the crowd and I admit it does look well worth the effort. Thanks to my ‘followers’ and ‘likers’ – very much appreciated your company. I also hope that the log may be of benefit to those who wish to embark on this project. Roger
  13. Hi David – yes I did use Tamiya tape – the best there is from my limited experience. I had a peep at your USS Maine model last week and here I was thinking the RE Lee was fiddly! Looks great. Since my last post I have mounted the stacks and fixed the standing rigging. The kit came with brown cord but I have used black cord from a previous model. The picture of the model on the kit box has black cord and I think it more appropriate than brown. At the same time I have been working on the bits and pieces including the lifeboats, ship’s bell, the siren, smokestack lanterns, anchors and the ‘croce’ meaning cross. A cross seems a bit out of place on a river boat? Nothing untoward to note since my last post. Getting there. I think I have said that before? I will have to start thinking about how I will mount the finished model.
  14. The handrails look ok from the front (i.e. from the water) but not from the back. I noticed from the illustration on the kit box that the rail had been painted in on the back side of the balustrade. It took a lot of talking to myself to decide to paint the rail in, as it was going to be a fiddly operation with the masking tape. However it looked pretty lousy as it was so I decided to go ahead. Looking at the end result it was worth the effort. Perhaps the rail could have been painted in before fixing each section of balustrade in place but after bending it etc I suspect there would be a lot of touch-up required. At the same time I have been progressing on a number of fronts, erecting the stacks, making the numerous masts and flagpoles etc. and a couple of photos follow just to show I have been doing something!
  15. I have completed the handrail installation with some relief. The use of the styrene strip made it so much easier than it sounded using the timber strip Iran. I thought it worth illustrating how easy it was with a couple of photos. I installed the rails in manageable lengths rather than trying to fix in in complete lengths to make it easier to keep the rail in position as the CA set. Firstly I glued the end of each length in position and when set glued the remainder, curving when necessary the rail around the bend of the balustrade. The styrene is very pliable and follows the curve of the balustrade very easily. Hopefully the following photos illustrate the method better than words. The straight length of this section of handrail has been glued in position. The rail has now been curved around the bend (one of the tightest on the model) and clipped in position while the CA sets. Clips can only be used on the top rail. The lower rails have to be patiently hand held in position as the CA sets. The remaining fill-in straight section can be accurately cut and easily glued in position. All four rails have been completed in this shot. These close-up shots show the joints but they are not so apparent when viewed normally from a distance through my rose-coloured glasses! Now I am on to all the deck fittings, funnels, masts etc. and have a choice as to what to tackle next.
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