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Everything posted by bruce d
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If you use the right blade and feed rate the results from the saw are splendid. I keep a very fine sanding block (the sponge type) by the saw and as a habit passed each plank gently across it. Any tiny burrs are dealt with this way, but I have not found it necessary to do further surface finishing. HTH Bruce
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
bruce d replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, great to hear your 'all clear' news.- 1,013 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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(and 2 more)
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Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
bruce d replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
SL = M12x1 Unimat 3&4 = M14x1 BTW, some Sherline lathes had M12x1 but most (the later ones) had M12.25 x 1 Bruce -
Work area pictures only
bruce d replied to Johnny Mike's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just moved house and this is destined to be my new workshop. It will be dual purpose: the outer (street) end is for general woodworking and stuff with modelmaking taking up the back half. It's been dubbed 'the fiddleyard'. -
Andy, both of the crew went into the Aegean trapped in the wreckage.
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In the 1915 shelling of Kavalla by RN monitors the Farman biplane acting as spotter was torn apart by turbulence from passing shells without actually having been hit.
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Hello Francois, There are several other drawings in the Dansk archive as well. They are all together, numbers G2343 to G2390. Here is the link to G2343: Arkivalieronline Use the control on the top bar and the list on the left side to view the rest of the series. Here is the link to the library index cards, the process is the same. Arkivalieronline Have fun, there are thousands of images! Bruce
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Found this unidentified vessel in an online collection of photograph albums ( [Photograph Album] : Eppler, Arthur O., 1873 - : Free Borrow & Streaming : Internet Archive ) Staring at this, I almost sympathise with the U-boat commander.
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"ON NAVAL TIMBER AND ARBORICULTURE; WITH CRITICAL NOTES ON AUTHORS WHO HAVE RECENTLY TREATED THE SUBJECT OF PLANTING" 1831, by Patrick Matthew The story behind the scenes of the techniques devised to keep the fleet afloat including the shipwright's methods. This book is in the public domain. Another scan which may be easier to read is viewable here: On Naval Timber and Arboriculture - Google Books On_Naval_Timber_and_Arboriculture.pdf
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It's interesting to see the difference between this build and my CAF longboat, purchased about five years ago. The kit has evolved. One of the changes is the more detailed stern. I had already decided to replace the plain stern in my kit: now I see Tom has had the same thought. hmcarlin, you're off to a good start, I will pull up a chair.
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A tungsten dart works very well. If you plan on working with metal, it's worth considering having a dedicated scriber for metal and saving your awl for wood.
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Decals for draft markings
bruce d replied to g8rfan's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
From experience: this works very well but DON'T burnish/rub down the numbers. Just set them in place, press gently and lift away the carrier sheet. Don't ask me how I know. -
Welcome to MSW from rainy Sussex.
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This is good practice, you will probably find yourself reaching for it constantly.
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Can I suggest the screen protector material for phones? My first attempts at cutting this stuff to exact sizes were encouraging and I have set aside a couple for use on the stern windows of my Mediator (when it eventually returns to the workbench). I successfully stuck a mocked up window frame in place with a tiny amount of acrylic varnish in my experiments. It's also cheap if you don't get one for a current model phone. Bruce
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pin vise and drill bits
bruce d replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I agree with everything Phil says and there is an easy fix for the finger rest. If you wrap a rubber band around a small bolt, M5 in my case, you can simply slide the threaded section into the open vice end and the head will form a finger rest. The rubber band has a friction grip inside the barrel of the vice to hold it in place. One of mine has a longer bolt wrapped in electrical tape instead of the rubber band so it rotates smoothly when drilling. Multiple pin vices are the way to go, IMHO. I have Starretts and others and for most jobs the cheap ones work just fine as long as the collet is gripping. HTH, Bruce -
Hello Paul, Having viewed thousands of files at The National Archives I am pleased to say that the summaries in the descriptions are reliable. There is an in-house system for reporting any discrepancies and the only time I found something to be scrutinised it was reviewed and edited in a couple of days. For what it's worth, I will view the original on my next visit and transcribe the full text for posting here. However, the first thing to do will be to look at any correspondence leading up to this instruction from the Admiralty as I expect it didn't come out of the blue. In the meantime the flat statement 'don't do it anymore' tells us that (A) it was being done by someone and (B) it stopped from this date. I feel confident on this last point because the dockyards and contractors would know they would not be paid. FWIW, this was the period when dockyards were still buying in most of the copper plates before the Admiralty took control of copper production. Don't have my notes but I'm sure I read a report of a ship's coppered hull being damaged to a greater degree than expected when a false keel was torn off; if I can find the incident (or someone recognises it?) then it's possible this was a factor in the Admiralty order. Bruce
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Sorry, that is all the summary says. If I visit The National Archives later in the year I will look at the original document to see if it explains further. Personally, I expect the keel was coppered and the false keel attached afterwards. I can't imagine they would copper the whole hull underwater and still leave the keel vulnerable to the dreaded worm. Regards, Bruce
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