Sunsanvil
-
Posts
83 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks much for that Keith.
I did a couple more, broke both, decided it was a combination of going too fast and possibly bending in the wrong orientation. I looked carefully at the stock and its seems fairly clear that the ribs are rip-cut from a board (two sides are smooth, the other two rough). Putting the smooth side to the outside and inside (the rough sides fore and aft), I did 6 more successfully.
I also experimented with my first (test) rib by dipping it in water and working it on the (hair) curling iron to see if subsequent bending or twisting is possible and indeed it is. That will surely come in handy as I get away from amidship and on to the ribs which need convoluted twisting to properly follow the fairing.
It really is a revelation to learn just how pliable a material like wood can be.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Seventynet in Microwaving the wood?
Thanks for this! I just did my first bend on my wife's iron and it worked remarkably well. I didn't even use the clamp but rather ran the piece back and forth against the barrel of the iron and worked it into shape. I did soak the part for about 20 minutes first as well for good measure.
We'll see tomorrow when I pop it off the frame how well it holds shape.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
I don't believe so. With one method the steam itself is the heat source, with the other the water is simply a barrier against scorching from a dry heat source (air or an iron).
Admittedly I'm only just getting acquainted with wood in my modelng journey, but I imagine one should use whatever method works best for a fairytale giant building a tiny ship...and those methods may be different from that of a 1:1 man. After all we don't have 1:16, 1:48, 1:350 size men on our desks helping us. .
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
Perhaps a brief soaking, or even just wetting, of the wood before hand?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
Indeed... because it was, and still is, impossible to apply dry heat to such large real-world piece of wood. But if it WERE possible, they probably would have done so centuries ago since, as has been well documented now, water and steam are only carriers of the heat which is what does the actual work of softening the lingnin.
-
Sunsanvil reacted to Keith_W in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Susan, those ribs are too thin to be structural. They are only there for cosmetic reasons. The shape of the boat is determined by the planking and the thwarts, which you will install much later. If you look at other build logs on MSW, you will see that nearly everybody complains that the hull "spreads" (becomes wider) after it is removed from the jig. This is NOT because of the ribs, it is just the way it is. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about this amount of spring back, as long as you make sure the ribs are firmly pushed in when you start planking.
-
Sunsanvil reacted to tkay11 in Bending with heat only
Just on the topic of using dry heat, I took the following shot of plank bending being done over an open hearth at a ship-builder's at Essaouira in Morocco a couple of years ago.
That's a fairly thick plank, now with a very nice curve. It's lying on an iron bar, which probably acts a bit like the hair curling tongs, though I think this one wasn't borrowed from his partner.
Tony
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Robin Lous in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Well, I've finally had time to reset the modelling table and start this project. I feel very confident with the overall process but already have some wood related questions.
Here is my false keel:
Sorry for the poor light. What l'm trying to show is that at the top edge (the one resting against the strait edge), is out of true by, litterally, 1mm (gap between it and the strait edge at the mid point). I have no idea if that's crazy unaceptable or within normal wood tolerances at this size and scale. The bottom edge is perfect. I've read about soaking and clamping parts such as this to strait edges etc but I really wonder if I mightn't make it worse rather than better.
The other starting question is on laminating the two keel halves.
The instructions caution against using wood glue, suggesting instead CA/super glue but I'd rather not the later if possible. If one is judicious with the amount of wood glue, and weight it down against a perfectly flat surface, is there that much danger of warpage?
Also wondering if someone can suggest a good set of files? The ones I have now are too fine. Great for plastic, but no good for shaping wood.
Thanks all....
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks. Indeed they will be spot glued. I just didn't know if that much spring-back is "normal" or if I would want to reheat one like that and try to get it a little closer to perfection before forcing it the last couple mm into place.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Microwaving the wood?
Thanks for this! I just did my first bend on my wife's iron and it worked remarkably well. I didn't even use the clamp but rather ran the piece back and forth against the barrel of the iron and worked it into shape. I did soak the part for about 20 minutes first as well for good measure.
We'll see tomorrow when I pop it off the frame how well it holds shape.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Mirabell61 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Captain Poison in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Is there a visual cue to use?
I read that a gentle plying of the part will give an indication of the best orientation to bend it in (the one which is most yielding).
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Building frame complete. Keel, stem, and transom in place. Very first (test) rib in place.
Need to run to the store and get a tub of file clips.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Microwaving the wood?
Thanks for this! I just did my first bend on my wife's iron and it worked remarkably well. I didn't even use the clamp but rather ran the piece back and forth against the barrel of the iron and worked it into shape. I did soak the part for about 20 minutes first as well for good measure.
We'll see tomorrow when I pop it off the frame how well it holds shape.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Building frame complete. Keel, stem, and transom in place. Very first (test) rib in place.
Need to run to the store and get a tub of file clips.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Microwaving the wood?
Thanks for this! I just did my first bend on my wife's iron and it worked remarkably well. I didn't even use the clamp but rather ran the piece back and forth against the barrel of the iron and worked it into shape. I did soak the part for about 20 minutes first as well for good measure.
We'll see tomorrow when I pop it off the frame how well it holds shape.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Bending with heat only
I don't believe so. With one method the steam itself is the heat source, with the other the water is simply a barrier against scorching from a dry heat source (air or an iron).
Admittedly I'm only just getting acquainted with wood in my modelng journey, but I imagine one should use whatever method works best for a fairytale giant building a tiny ship...and those methods may be different from that of a 1:1 man. After all we don't have 1:16, 1:48, 1:350 size men on our desks helping us. .
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Bending with heat only
Perhaps a brief soaking, or even just wetting, of the wood before hand?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Bending with heat only
Indeed... because it was, and still is, impossible to apply dry heat to such large real-world piece of wood. But if it WERE possible, they probably would have done so centuries ago since, as has been well documented now, water and steam are only carriers of the heat which is what does the actual work of softening the lingnin.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Bending with heat only
Indeed... because it was, and still is, impossible to apply dry heat to such large real-world piece of wood. But if it WERE possible, they probably would have done so centuries ago since, as has been well documented now, water and steam are only carriers of the heat which is what does the actual work of softening the lingnin.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Bending with heat only
Perhaps a brief soaking, or even just wetting, of the wood before hand?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
Just be sure to unplug it when not in use. There is a youtube about the blower element turning on, even when the unit is switched off, due to a failed triac.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Microwaving the wood?
I'm approaching the point in my build where I'm going to be doing my first bending of wood. I'm in Canada, the house is sealed up tight for the coming winter, and as such a kettle or pot of perpetually boiling water is a big no-no (mold and mildew).
I read that the microwave might be a vaible option for me. Does anyone have any experience they can share? Soak the wood first? Wrap it in wet paper towel? Roughly how many seconds/minutes to start with?
Thanks.
Our Emblem ®
