ah100m
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Everything posted by ah100m
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I'm currently deep into the running rigging of the 1/96 Revell connie. I drilled holes in all of the pinrails to hold brass belaying pins and didn't have a one split. The pins I used are 5mm/13/64" long (19.5" long actual). I drilled 0.6mm/1/64" holes in the rails for them. That's a #72 or 73 drill. My references said that the pins were iron so I just blackened the brass ones. Oh, and I also pinned the rails to the deck or bulwark with pins made from brass nails with the heads cut off. Yes, I used Blacken-it. Worked fine.
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I'm currently deep into the running rigging of the 1/96 Revell connie. I drilled holes in all of the pinrails to hold brass belaying pins and didn't have a one split. The pins I used are 5mm/13/64" long (19.5" long actual). I drilled 0.6mm/1/64" holes in the rails for them. That's a #72 or 73 drill. My references said that the pins were iron so I just blackened the brass ones. Oh, and I also pinned the rails to the deck or bulwark with pins made from brass nails with the heads cut off.
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Treating rigging blocks prior to installation
ah100m replied to WalrusGuy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I use Minwax "Special Walnut 224" stain. It looks right to me. -
Once all the of shrouds on one side of a mast are set up I attach the sheer pole, first untwisting each shroud in turn, holding it in position and applying a drop of CA (super) glue to glue the shroud to the pole. Then I go back and properly tie the pole to each shroud. Works for me. You may need to touch up with a bit of matte paint to kill the gloss of the glue but usually the sheer pole and the fastening thread hides the joint.
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Back "...when the drivers were fat and tires were skinny". Jose Gonzalez
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Thanks. That was my opinion as well.
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I'm working on the running rigging of the Constitution using the Bluejacket plans as the basis of the belaying, along with the diagrams in AOTS. Many lines, especially for the sails, are belayed to tops. Where? To the rails? To cleats? Where are the cleats - on the rails? The deck of the top? Or to cleats seized to the shrouds? Any help would be appreciated!
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Sanding plastic models, what's best?
ah100m replied to JochenHeiden's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
These- Kiss nail files. Cheap at Amazon, expensive in the drug store. Four different grits. Nothing better for plastic. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9JCD8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1- 1 reply
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I've done it by hand many times. Shrouds, stays, etc. It's not that hard to keep the serving uniform. Stretch the rope taut between two vises or similar, keep the rope and the serving line damp with diluted white glue and wrap it around. Try it before you buy the serving machine. You have nothing to lose except some time. Works for lines around 12" long or less otherwise the serving line gets tangled around things and attracts the attention of the cat...
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I did mine with Bare-Metal Foil (brand name) copper. Very thin, all the surface detail shows through when burnished down. Buy a pack and try it.
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1. Open up the hole in the block with a #80 or #79 drill. 2. Dip the end of the rigging line in thin CA (super) glue. Just about 1/4" or so to stiffen it. 3. Cut the end of the line at an angle to form a point. 4. It should go right into the block. If it won't the line is the wrong size. For instance, at 1/96 scale a 2mm block is about 8". The hole resulting from a #80 drill will accommodate a 3-4" c line in 1/96th scale which is about right.
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https://www.amazon.com/100PCS-Grommets-Eyelets-Clothes-Leather/dp/B07JNDSNJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548553608&sr=8-4&keywords=2mm%2Bgrommets&th=1 100 2mm grommets plus tool for about $12. They also have 1.5mm ones. Amazon is your friend.
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OK, makes sense. Thanks
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Bump
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Thanks - good photo. Still waiting for opinions on the footropes on the spritsail yard with no sail.
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OK, makes sense for the jib boom and flying jib boom. But the spritsail yard...?
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Would footropes be rigged on a spritsail yard even though (USS Constitution) the spritsail never carried a sail? Also, why do some rigging plans call for both port and starboard footropes on the jib boom and flying jib boom? Seems redundant.
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Has anyone actually used the sails from HiSModel? I'm approaching the point with my Constitution where I need to decide sails or bare poles.
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Good input - thanks.
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See the eyebolts on the aft end of the sliding portion of the carriage? That's where the inhaul tackle would attach. I've seen these photos, and others, many times before but it never dawned on me that something should attach there! Most ( in fact almost ALL) drawings of carronade tackle don't show the inhaul tackle. Some show just the breech rope, obviously incomplete. But even those that show a "full" rigging omit the inhaul tackle. Curious.
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That's what I was thinking too. Maybe scatter some tackle about, unhooked but near the guns, too. Just a couple. Thanks.
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OK, so I thought I was finished rigging the carronades on the Constitution's spar deck. I have the breech rope, the train tackles for swiveling the gun and the inhaul tackles for bringing the gun to the firing position after it's loaded. All the references I've seen (until yesterday) show only those ropes. However while trying to answer another question about binnacles I stumbled upon an illustration in "All Sails Up and Flying" which also shows a single inhaul tackle between a ring bolt on the deck inboard the gun and an eyebolt on the sliding portion of the carriage. It makes sense, how else would you move the sliding portion inboard inboard if it hadn't moved there from recoil? Maybe it wouldn't be needed often but if there were some misfire problem you might need to move the barrel inboard to fix the problem. Maybe the tackle wouldn't be attached all the time (hooks?) but kept at the ready? Anybody have anything to contribute before I go off and rig up another 48 blocks?!
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Thanks. Makes sense.
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glue questions
ah100m replied to svein erik's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If you mean gluing metal to wood, either epoxy or super glue is best. For light duty, like gluing a flat photo-etched piece, (i.e. grating) to a wood frame where it's not going to be stressed, white glue will also work.
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