-Dallen

I did table lathe. However, I shorthanded for this ship. We'll have to do this long.

Found drawings of higher quality. In the drawings, the forum in a small file. If anyone should be I can provide large files individually.

Yes indeed. This is the old Soviet-style radiators. However, it is not flat (in a building). This is my workshop in my villa. The area of the workshop is almost 30 meters. Places will be enough for two ships such as the Standart.

I would like to leave one of the ships for me . However, if a lot of money to seduce me, I'm selling. Yes, you are absolutely right. The second copy is significantly offset the cost of production of the first-born.

Selecting a program depends on the file being processed. I use Art Cam also (to create files and control programs).

Hi Greg.
Yes, of course, professionals (my friends and colleagues) which is not very much, often used method for the simultaneous construction of two ships of the same type. The fact is (and this advanced modelers know) that there is 60% of the work on which the model is not finished. Before you make the item, you need to create tools, tools, software, etc.. To work was justified, it is necessary to do very small wholesale. Very small wholesale, we have two models. However, these two models so you can make a unique (use a different style for the same item).
A simple example ... in order to start production of guns (say 100 mm), I diverge a lot of work and money. However, to create one or 100 guns, the amount of labor will be the same.

Very innovative build Alex. It seems like most of the Russian Master modelers make two of them at the same time. 

Thank you. However difficult it may be a very strong heat ... Concept model (to complete) designed to trifles. See further. it will be interesting.

Along with the main work on the body of the device, prepare brass sheets for covering the underwater hull. I bought the usual paper guillotine but replaced the knife and a table on a solid carbon steel. The sheet thickness of 0.3 mm. Guillotine blades with new cutting very precisely and as a hot knife through butter.

It's time to materialize virtual development.
Thus, in the construction of two identical spacecraft to the body size of 2350 mm (between perpendiculars)
I ordered the joiner bars for housing, because at home (without equipment) to make this work is not possible. I used alder wood.
Total (for two vehicles) 20 parts (with the largest size details 9000H300H900 mm). I rented my friend big CNC milling machine.

It created a very complex model 47 - mm gun Hotchkiss system.

Thanks for the nice comments and likes!
 
Finished a draft version of the display case sketch. Would appreciate the critics, it would be cheaper to correct the design issues now than later! 
 
Basic characteristics: 100cm wide, 80cm high and 30cm deep (40' wide, 31' high, 12' deep). Plexiglas (3mm thick) would be used instead of glass (for safety and weight reasons). No glass on the back side, it would be mounted to the wall and the background would be a white wall.
Made out of the same swiss pear as the model. The frame would be made out of square pear stock 2x2cm (13/16').
 
Here is the overview first:
 
Front: 

(yes, I love scarf joints )
 
Isometric:

(Please ignore the joints in the back, I had no energy to draw them properly, but they be a mirrored copy of the front joints).
 
The load bearing part is hidden by the "skirt", and is made out of thick plywood bolted to the wall with Big Strong Bolts. Any sort of electrical stuff would be hidden in that cavities as well.
Plywood is covered by the pear "skirt" with a model description carved on it (or inlayed).

The top part of the case would be attached to the wall as well, with hidden screws, but will not take any weight.
 
Tricky part is the the way it would be opened. Since I will keep model in it and get it out every time I want to work on it, the opening mechanism should be easy to use (multiple times per week). Also, due to asymmetrical nature of the model, I want guests to be able to get it out easily to see the other side.
So the front window is detachable and is held by strong magnets. That means that front frame is split into two parts - one is 1cm thick and hold everything together, and another is also 1cm thick and holds the front glass. 
 
Front frame joints look like this (a bit complicated, but it is a sort of decorative joint, I want it to look nice)

 
Or a multi-colored version of the same joint, each color is a different wood piece:

 
There would be a groove inside front part of the front frame, to provide an additional support for the top glass and its frame, since otherwise it would be only supported from sides and will sag over time.
 
Would appreciate corrections if I forgot to over-think something in this design!  Is the plexiglas thick enough? I accounted for the wood movement, grooves for the glass are deeper to allow wood to shrink and breathe a bit. 
Is the base construction strong enough?

Nice work Mike, I have to agree with Druxey, and although the journey is long it is full of rich lessons for the future.
 
Michael

Finally finished the transom.
Last set of notches (aka "macro is brutal")

 
Horizontal piece also got some of them, on a weird angles:

 
Glued in, treenailed and masked for fairing:

 
Fairing was easy, because the smooth curve of the transom allowed to use the plane:

 
Faired. I made one mistake, one joint is too shallow, so can't fair this junction properly - the wood is too thin and will fall off
Too late and painful to fix, decided to leave it as is. Eventually this will become a part of the quarter gallery, so it will be less visible:

 
Put the oil on it (that was fun, so many surfaces to carefully oil and so many are crossing each other). Can't wait for it to dry, sorry for reflexes due to wet oil!
Note that due to a different grain orientation, oil resulted in different colours for different groups of timbers. Light "along the grain", medium dark "diagonal grain" and very dark "cross grain". It is all made literally made of the same piece of wood, I promise! Wood is magic
Not everything aligned as it should, but I started with a not very symmetrical transom, at least haven't made it worse. Will pay much more attention to the proper alignment in the next build!

 

 

 
Now I am taking a short break - will shift attention to the jewellery box I promised to admiral, and then will come back to this log with a display case for the model. The model is far from being complete, but it does not stop from displaying it properly, and will definitely help to keep the dust off.

A very exciting journey through the eyes of an accomplished machinist and tool maker. Although most of us will never achieve this extreme level of tool making, it is an amazing example of work that can't be ignored. What a group of artisans who add new meaning to "We can build nearly anything from very little."

Those are just extra pieces.....just in case.
 
The glue choice is up to you...whatever is more comfortable for your pace and work habits.
 
Yes glueing those pieces across the bulkheads is a great idea.

That would be the port tackle.

Hi everyone;
 
The location of the eye-bolt in the ship's side,  further from the gun-port,  was relatively new at this period,  and was done with the sole aim of making it possible to traverse the gun through a wider arc of fire.  Previously the eye-bolts had been much closer to the sides of the gun-ports,  as shown by the other line in the first illustration posted.
 
This was all part of a package of improvements to naval gunnery pioneered by Sir Charles Douglas between 1778-1781;  who,  amongst other things,  also perfected the flintlock firing mechanism by using priming tubes of goose quill,  rather than thin metal (which could fly out as razor sharp fragments on firing)  and introduced flannel cartridges (which left no burning residues in the barrel after firing,  and so were much safer,  and enabled a faster re-load)
 
For more on this,  see the chapter on HMS Duke in the Seawatch Books publication about first & second rates in the Rogers Collection.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Thanks for the kind words. Well, actually most of the really serious machining (namely the guides for the slides) was done decades ago by the Lorch-guys in Frankfurt/Germany. That really cannot be done with 'nothing', but requires a bigger and sturdier milling machine than I have. The quality of their workmanship is difficult to find these days. I also wished I could work with cast parts, rather than having to fabricate them.
 
About the scale: sorry, I am so familiar with the size of these machines, that did not think of adding a scale. The overall height of it is 35 cm or 14". for those across the water.
 
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One of the most important aspects of the machine is the flexiblity in holding even tiny work-pieces. The dividing head offers a wide variety of work-holding options using the spindle-tools from the 6 mm-lathe, such as 3- and 6-jaw-scroll-chucks, independent 4-jaw-chucks, ring- and step-chucks, face-plates, as well as the whole range of collets from 0.3 mm to 14 mm diameter.
 

3-jaw chuck
 

Step-chuck
 

Ring-chuck
 

Independent 4-jaw-chuck
 

A very old face-plate (I have newer model too, but this is not refurbished yet)
 
The dividing head can be positioned at any angle between vertical and horizontal. Direct dividing is provided for by a drum with three rows of 8, 10, and 12 indents respectively. This allows the milling of prisms or pyramids with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, or 12 sides. A worm-wheel of 40 teeth that is driven by worm on the axis of which is mounted a dividing plate with 90 teeth provides for indirect division of up to 3600. While such divisions are unlikely to occur in practice, the fine angular movement is useful for shape-milling against a schedule table. When the indent is disengaged the worm-drive can be used for round-milling.
 

Dividing head in horizontal position
 

Dividing head set at an angle
 

Worm and dividing plate for indirect dividing
 
Collets for work-holding are particularly useful, as a wide variety of small parts can actually by milled from round material of various diameters and then sawn-off from the stem held in the collet. The collets, a holder for standard 6 mm end-mills, arbors for slitting saws, as well as a small boring-head are stored in a fitted antique box.
 

Antique collet box adapted to the use with the micro-mill
 
To be continued ...

Has anyone used Orange wood to draw and make nails? From somewhere in the past I have acquired a box of 2500 Orange Wood cuticle sticks. Bound to be useful for something other than glue sticks.

Once the motor-housing was painted, what remained was to solder the electrical connections, to put everything together, to oil and to adjust the machine ...
 
 

 

 

 

The completed micro-milling-machine
 
To be continued ...

Trying to keep up standards
 
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Some time ago I purchased a 12V motor from a Chinese source that is supposed to run at a nominal speed of 3000 rpm. Considering is length of 71 mm and a diameter of 51 mm with an 8 mm drive shaft I expect it to have sufficient torque for the purpose. The data given by the seller were rather cryptic. The mounting of the motor caused me some head-scratching. The original intention was to use a bracket similar to the one used on the lathe toolpost-grinder shown below as the mock-up.
 

Self-contained drive unit as used on the toolpost-grinder
 
This would have resulted in a self-contained drive unit. However, the motor would have fouled the cross-slide, when the y-slide is fully run out. Making the bracket longer would have solved this problem, but I was afraid of the vibrations this long lever might transmit and the distortions to the y-slide. Another possibility would have been to mount it upside-down over top of the y-slide, but this would have raised the centre of gravity of the whole machine considerably and transmitted vibrations to the system. In the end I make, for the time being, a simple bracket that uses the two screws with which the extension of the y-slide is screwed down.
 

Motor mount
 
The lathe and grinding spindles were meant to run at maximum speeds of around 4000 to 5000 rpm. Therefore, a slight stepping-up compared to the motor speed would be permissible. As the motor bracket does not provide for any adjustment of the belt-tension, I copied the pulley on the grinding spindle for use as a motor pulley as exactly as possible. It will be put upside-down onto the motor, so that the belt can be shifted for stepping up (1 : 1.4) or stepping down (1 : 0.7) speeds without the need for adjusting the tension. Most of the speed control will come from the electronics in the power-supply.
The pulley on the grinding spindle has a 75° V-groove for 3 mm round belts. A V-groove can be cut by either setting over the top-slide, or using a pointed tool with the appropriate angle. I had to grind a HSS-toolbit with this angle, checking it against a template. The two grooves were cut using a stepping method. Cutting it full depth would not be possible. I order to ensure concentricity between the pulley-bore and the groove, first the step in which the set-screw is located was turned and then the piece turned around for drilling/reaming the bore and cutting the grooves in the same set-up. For cutting the grooves the pulley was supported with a revolving tailstock centre.
 

 

 

Steps in machining the motor pulley
 

The finished moto pulley
 

The two drive pulleys
 
To be continued ...

Thanks again, gentlemen
 
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As for the other dial fabricated earlier, a pressure pad provides for an adjustable friction stop. The outside rim was also given a treatment with the concave knurling tool described earlier.
 

 

 
Knurling the rim of the dial
 
The engravings on all dials were filled-in with black paint and when the paint was dry, the dials were slightly rubbed-over with fine wet-and-dry paper to leave crisp black engravings on a satin surface. 
 

The finished dial at its place
 
Finally, the cleaned cross-slide was re-assembled with the new dial.
 

Re-assembled cross-slide
 
 
To be continued ....

Hope you landed safely 
 
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A while ago I had been able to purchase at a good price a 'left-handed' Lorch, Schmidt & Co. cross-slide, which is what was needed for this project. In Germany, watchmakers for some reason traditionally worked with the headstock to the right, and not to the left as is common practice in virtually all other lathes. Some older watchmakers still seem to work like this, but I gather the majority nowadays, prefer to have the headstock to the righ. In consequence, cross-slides that are meant to be mounted to the left of the headstock and operated mainly with the left hand are relatively cheap to come by.
 

Actuall a right-handed cross-slide but the used was in similar condition (forgot to take a ‘before’ picture)
 
The one I received looked a bit worn on the outside, but mechanically was still in a good condition. Spindles and spindle-nut were tight. However, the nickel plating was chipped and peeling off. I completely diassembled the cross-slide and ground-off the remaining nickel with fine wet-and-dry paper and polished the surfaces. Then all parts were thoroughly cleaned.
 

Cross-slide taken apart
 
The spindles have the 0.75 mm pitch commonly found on cross-slides for D-bed lathes. Not very convenient for calculations, but I got actually used to it on my D-bed lathe. The dial on the y-axis (the future z-axis of the mill) was actually graduated with 15 divisions, giving the diameter reduction when turning, though it has the same pitch as the x-axis. On the mill this graduation would be confusing and I also wanted to have a conical dial on the z-axis. So I moved the x-axis dial to the y-axis, which is the future x-axis of the mill, and made a new dial for the future z-axis.
 

Taper-turning for the new cross-slide dial
 
For this, a 20 mm piece of brass was drilled and reamed for the 4 mm-spindle. It was then taken onto a 4 mm-arbor for further machining. The lathe top-slide was off-set by 45° for turning the conical shape. In the same set-up the lines on the dial were engraved using a pointed tool-bit - the lathe head-stock, as for all watchmakers lathes, can be used for simple dividing. There are 60 stop-holes, which was convenient for the 15 stops needed here.
 

 

Engraving the cross-slide dial on the lathe
 
The engraved dial was then moved to a special jig I made some years ago, that allows to punch numbers onto conical dials. After punching, the dial was moved back to the arbor, the exact position had been marked before removal, and the burrs thrown up by the engraving and punching were removed by a light cut, leaving behind crisp lines and numbers.
 

Set-up for stamping the numbers onto the dial
 

Cleaning up the engraved dial
 
 
To be continued ....

To to continue: The ball-end lever for the locking bolt was fashioned from a short piece of steel in several steps: first the stem that will be a push-fit in a hole of the bolt was turned;
 

 
chucking the material with this stem, then the main part of the lever was turned conical, leaving a part cylindrical for the ball-head;
 

 
the conical part was given a waist using the free-hand turning rest;
 

 
and finally the ball-head was formed using the radius-turning tool.
 

 

 
The tool-bit in this case was a 2 mm HSS-bit in a special holder that allows to form a sphere with a sharp edge at the stem.
 

The finished ball-lever
 

Ball-lever actuated locking pin in place
 
To be continued ....