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Byrnes Drawplate


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I have a Byrnes draw plate and it is the best one I have. It has a great cutting edge at each hole. It is easy to use and I would not trade it for anything.

 

Insert the material into the side opposite the countersink and then pull it through from the countersunk side of the hole. You can use pliers to hold on to the end while you draw it through. I use my thumb and forefinger, but others use pliers.

 

You can clamp it to your desk or table, but I have never done that. I hold it in my hand as I work. I can usually get a 5-6 inch length on each piece if I want them that long.

 

Make sure you have a piece that is not too large for the hole. I draw my bamboo through the same hole several times, angling it differently with each successive pass to ensure I am ready to move to the next hole. Be patient and do not try and work too fast. The faster you go, the more breakage you will have. Also, the more practice you have, the easier it will be to use.

 

You should experiment with it to see what approach works best for you. Have fun.

 

Russ

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These tongs really only make sense, when you have a draw-bench. A draw-bench is used for drawing wires, not wood/bamboo. The draw-plate is fixed at one end and at the other there is a chain with a geared winding mechanism, or a belt. The hooked arm of the tongs points upward, while the straight one slides on the bench - in this way the pressure on the wire increases the stronger you pull. Here a historical example from the Internet:

draw-bench.jpg

Source: http://phiden.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/draw-bench.jpg

 

I don't think these tongs would be useful to draw material for tree-nails ...

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Yes, I draw a boxwood nails. Requires a nice straight grained piece to cut the strips from, but works fine after some practice. Also works as a reliable mood measurement tool. One must be totally calm when using it - otherwise the piece will snap somewhere in the small hole :)

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Of course draw plates were originally used to reduce the diameter of gold and silver wire for jewelers.  The wire was annealed and pulled through from the larger diameter side of the plate to squeeze the wire to the smaller size.  The wire was annealed again and the process repeated as many times as necessary to achieve the desired diameter.  This can be done with brass wire to get that odd size that you cannot find.

 

Bob

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Although hardened steel draw-plates were used for brass and iron/steel, these would wear rapidly, resulting in a gradual increase of the diameter. So, today carbide or ruby dies are used for anything harder than copper and, of course, in any commercial context.

 

I would doubt that drawing your own wire without a draw-bench as illustrated above would be successful. The forces and steady action required would be difficult to apply by simple drawing with elbow grease. The process results in the metal sort of flowing and this has to be maintained also without changing the direction of pull. Otherwise the wire will break.

 

However, this is digression from the original subject ...

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Although hardened steel draw-plates were used for brass and iron/steel, these would wear rapidly, resulting in a gradual increase of the diameter. So, today carbide or ruby dies are used for anything harder than copper and, of course, in any commercial context.

Also, commercial drawing machines flood the die with oil, which lubricates the hole and takes away heat.   Even for hand drawing of metals, some oil, wax or grease is recommended to reduce wear of the holes and to reduce the required pulling force.  This is, of course, messy if done by hand, so I can see how a drawing bench would be desirable.  

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