-Dallen

With such detail I have visions of pilot house and deck lighting.

Really enjoying your build log. The progress is fantastic as is the craftsmanship.

"Epic" kits are something that I would not have the knowledge to comment on. But in my opinion the HMS Naiad 1797 1/48 by Albert would certainly be a strong candidate for an epic build.

"Epic" kits are something that I would not have the knowledge to comment on. But in my opinion the HMS Naiad 1797 1/48 by Albert would certainly be a strong candidate for an epic build.

With such detail I have visions of pilot house and deck lighting.

You mean like this, Nils

I needed to make a half dozen fire buckets for my project so I took a few photo's to show how I made mine. Once I had a size in mind I made a pattern and cut some thin brass to that shape. I than tinned opposite ends and opposite sides. So that when the brass is rolled into a cone the tinned ends will be face to face. I used a tapered dowel to help form the rolled cone shape for soldering. The rolled forms are a little long/tall for triming down later. Using a block of wood with a hole drilled just shy of bucket height and snug at the top i than placed a ring of wire around top of bucket and soldered in place. using the tapered dowel while soldering ring in to place helped line things up. Should come out looking like this. the next step was to cut out small disc of brass that was just a bit bigger than the bottom of bucket. with the disc on the end of the tapered dowel a bucket was lower over the end and pushed the disc to the bottom of bucket but not clear thur. Just enough of a lip to solder it in place, Some clean up with files and paper is next. Lastly some paint and install handle. Not sure when it became the practice of painting fire buckets red or if there ever was a rule to do so. 

The downside of solder is the lead.  It will deteriorate with time.

Really enjoying your build log. The progress is fantastic as is the craftsmanship.

Spent the last few weekends procrastinating, working on a workbench improvements. 
It all started with a problem of fixing wooden boards to the table. Clamps are not really good enough, especially if you start planing. But any sort of bench vice is too ugly for the living room, and there is a door to the kid room right next to the table - so it is not convenient to have a large handle.
And then I discovered Veritas inset vice. Yes, that was perfect for the purpose! Nice, elegant, small handle.
 
To install it, a large mortise needs to be made in the table top. Started with drilling away most of the material.

 

 
The rest was removed with a router bit and dremel. Routing freehand is super scary! But works:

 
Then a small "frame" was made with a miniature router plane and a block plane:

 
I severely underestimated the efforts required to make a mortise with the tools I have. It took too many hours and too much dust
 
Since my table top is not thick enough (not enough wood left under the mortise) I reinforced it with thick plywood located under the vice, fixed to the table top with glue and lots of thick dowels:

 
Done! It is flush with the surface (I even made it 1mm below the surface), and the handle is unlikely to be a problem even on a way to the kid room:

 
When used, bench dog (hand made) is inserted into a hole, and a small jaw is inserted into the vice:

 
Uses are many. Starting from fixing the model in a jig (very little pressure is required, so I do not think the jig or hull will deform):

 

 
Ending with planing the wood. This beautiful walnut board with epoxy-filled cracks was waiting for the vice to be planed. Finally done!

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Another photo 
 
 

Albert, fantastic.
 
 
Pawel

Albert, such precision!
 
​This is already a work of art!

While the glue is drying I start to make the lower deck beams and the lower deck beam arms. On the fourth picture the deck beams are laid in the model but not yet fastened. Before I will do that, the lower deck has to be tree nailed.

The deck clamps are in place and the last gaps in the planking are filled.

Some special attention is to be drawn to the lower deck clamp. To determine the angle of the upper side of the plank I fasten with clamps a lath on the bottom level of the lower deck beam. I hold a piece of cardboard against the frame and mark the lined of the bottom deck beam and the frame.
This cardboard will be the template to saw the deck beam.
 

Next thing to do is fixing the inner planking of the lower deck.

Pete and Mark,
 
Thank you very much for this useful information.
 
Geert
 

What Pete said.  The removable part was more for cleaning out debris than checking the water level.  The limber channel was for the water to drain into the well and given the nature of the ships, it wasn't unusual for them to get clogged up.

Geert, I had the same question in my build log. All the replies I got were they are about 3 feet long with a hole drilled at the ends for lifting out. So I scaled my accordingly. Turned out looking nice so that is what I went with.
 
Go to page 9 on my log and scroll down to about post #170 and you can read the replies.
 
Hope this helps

Looking good.  I like the way everything is going.  The limber strakes look great.

With the template I make a pattern of the angle to set up  the angle of the Proxxon saw to saw the boards.

To determine the angle of the sides of the limber boards, I fix a piece of cardboard with some scotch tape on the end of the keelson and limber strake. This way it is easy to line the contours of the space between them. The result is a template of the limber board.

The grove in the limber strakes is made with the Proxxon saw