Hubac's Historian

Hello all - 
 
Welcome to those of you who followed my build log of my previous ocean liner, the SS Andrea Doria.  If you have not seen it, you can reach it by clicking the link below my profile, below.
 
The Michelangelo was a slightly newer ship and sleeker in appearance.
 
 
To give myself a bit more of a challenge, the model is being built to the scale of 1/350 rather than 1/200 as were my previous liner models.  This means that the model's overall length is just over 31", which is a reasonable size for home display.  I hope to still incorporate the same level of detail as at the larger scale, with some windows laser cut and others done with custom decals.  Railings, ladders, etc. will be done in photoetched brass, and let me tell you, those pieces are tiny!   
 
The primary challenge of the build will be to replicate the cages around the funnels at this scale.  The cages are one of the most visually appealing aspects of the ship, and were magnets for publicity photographs and even made it to the cover of the New York Times Magazine section.  Nice shape, don't you think?

 
As usual, my research began with trolling the internet, various books and other publications for images of the ship that would confirm and supplement the engineering drawings that would be ordered from the Italian naval archives.  Out of about a thousand images some 200 were selected that were of such sufficient clarity and resolution to be useful.  The covered almost every aspect of the ship, from her construction in the Anseldo Shipyards in Genoa
 
to her ultimate end in the Pakistani breakers yard in 1991
 
Next time I will go into the process that I used to go from the plans to a laid-up basswood hull.
 
Until then, be well
 
Dan

Hi Doris,
I think Dan had a point, talking about your entry port being a bit too close to the next gun port. On all models (your links, and others) I see this placed rather symmetrically in between two gun ports, so that all rigging to the guns can be securelly fixed to the inner bullwark.    Perhaps it is not too late to tweak it?
I happen to have a handful of photos of the late Ed Marple's model of his Royal Katherine, exhibited in the Channel Islands Maritime Museum in Oxnard, Southern California (I included one in my earlier post, above). I took them succesively during my numerous visits there, over the years. I don't remember the sources of documentation Mr. Marple used for building his model, only vaguely I seem to recall that he had some drawings from the NMM in London.
If you think that those pictures would be helpful for building your model, let me know and I would be happy to send them to you.
Regards,
Thomas
 

Well, about several weeks but plenty of details are solved during construction and modified as needed.

On the subject of girdling, I remember reading some time ago that there were problems with the Katherine after her launch, in terms of her handling characteristics.  The inclusion of this detail, is a very nice touch, and a subject that one rarely ever considers when thinking about ship models.

Doris,
I really am so floored by what you do.  As is the case with your other models that I have seen, the Royal Katherine is so cleanly worked and her lines are so fair - if I didn't know it was a model, I would swear it were the real thing springing up before our eyes.  You have such a strong sense for how the architecture of these floating batteries should look.  And your resourcefullness, in finding such creative ways to simulate realistic details, makes you a ship-modeling genius in my eyes.
 
You answer one question for me and I have ten new ones.  Rather than ask those questions now, though, I will do as you suggested and read through your Royal Caroline build log.
 
The basic question your models provoke is this:  with results so clean and fair, using such simple materials and tools - why build a ship-model any other way?
 
Well, I will be watching with great fascination from here on out!
 
 

You seem to work at a steady pace with tremendous progress in a short timeframe.  How long did it take you to research and develop plans for Katherine?

On the subject of girdling, I remember reading some time ago that there were problems with the Katherine after her launch, in terms of her handling characteristics.  The inclusion of this detail, is a very nice touch, and a subject that one rarely ever considers when thinking about ship models.

Doris,
I really am so floored by what you do.  As is the case with your other models that I have seen, the Royal Katherine is so cleanly worked and her lines are so fair - if I didn't know it was a model, I would swear it were the real thing springing up before our eyes.  You have such a strong sense for how the architecture of these floating batteries should look.  And your resourcefullness, in finding such creative ways to simulate realistic details, makes you a ship-modeling genius in my eyes.
 
You answer one question for me and I have ten new ones.  Rather than ask those questions now, though, I will do as you suggested and read through your Royal Caroline build log.
 
The basic question your models provoke is this:  with results so clean and fair, using such simple materials and tools - why build a ship-model any other way?
 
Well, I will be watching with great fascination from here on out!
 
 

Dear friends, thank you very much for your comments.  It is a pleasure and honour for me, that you like my work.
Here is the hull oversprayed with acrylic paints and body spray + primer used for cars. After grinding I will start to change it into a wooden look using strips of various  types od foils. I have already written many details about this technology, so if you are interest in that, please refer at my building log Royal Caroline.

On the recommendation of the Captain K.L., who is an excellent expert in the field of  shipbuiliding and the history, I have decided to add another layer of planking = the girdling.  Some information about this technology, that was used on real ships in 17th century,  you can find in the book by Brian Lavery: The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815; pages 57, 60. 
More information are also in the Czech forum, but you need to use translator.
http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=105#p2001324
http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=105#p2001751
 
 

The girdling is probably unknown technology in ship modeling, but the relevant records prove that it was necessary to perform on some ships, whose hull had excessive draft and lower gunports were just above water. The girdling helped to improve the displacement. Of course, it was an unnatural interference into the original construction.
My target is to make the model as accurate as possible based on historical accuracy, and according to records Royal Katherine was girdled soon after launching.

And here I am starting with the surface finishing..... Again with foil stripes, that I attach using hot air/hair dryer....
 
 

Wooden-look planking on underwater part of the hull.

Well, I use common cards available in a stationery or shops for modelers. Here is the shop, where I ordered material for this project:
https://www.promodely.cz/07-5
The most suitable is the tough cardboard, which is used for example as a support for table calendars.
If you want to use this material, it is O.K. for other modification - you can glue wooden strips on it or use plastic foils - it is easier. But remember - it is necessary to prepare the surface thoroughly, it is oversprayed with suitable paint and clear varnish at first to protect it against humidity and other influences. The surface must be very smooth to keep the foil strips reliably.  
In this case, there are never problems with the durability of the result.

Hi Doris,
 
What sort of card stock do you use?  Is it specialty cardboard that you might buy at an artist's supply?  I was thinking I might adapt some of your technique to my model of Soleil Royal.  I'll need to create new interior structural support and cambered deck beams because I am scratch-building all new decks in this, otherwise, plastic kit.  My thought was that card would be easier to layout, cut and shape than styrene sheet, as an underlayment for what will ultimately be wooden strip planking.  Or, would it not be advisable to glue wood strip to cardboard false decks, because of humidity fluctuations between different materials?  Is that why you use plastic foils to simulate decking?

Doris I am curious about your use of different glues and where you would use them. Your work always looks so clean, could you say a little about your use of glues and your thoughts about them.
Especially where you layer one thickness of card over another, as in the planking.
Thank you
 
Michael

Hi Doris,
 
What sort of card stock do you use?  Is it specialty cardboard that you might buy at an artist's supply?  I was thinking I might adapt some of your technique to my model of Soleil Royal.  I'll need to create new interior structural support and cambered deck beams because I am scratch-building all new decks in this, otherwise, plastic kit.  My thought was that card would be easier to layout, cut and shape than styrene sheet, as an underlayment for what will ultimately be wooden strip planking.  Or, would it not be advisable to glue wood strip to cardboard false decks, because of humidity fluctuations between different materials?  Is that why you use plastic foils to simulate decking?

It takes me sometimes more than 2-3 years, than the model is finished. There is no problem with these card models, I use high quality and efficient impregnation, so the models are similarly durable as wooden. At home i have more than 20 years old card models and they still look like new.
 
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Here you can see the finished second layer of planking, made of cardboard as well.I use various thickness of this material - from 0,5mm to 2mm.

The deck in the central part of the ship is covered by tapes from plastic foils, that I use on all my card models to imitate wooden look..
 
The inner parts of the model are already covered with a second layer of carton and bases for the upper decks.
 
I have also a handsome helper who makes me a companion during model-builing.
 

And here I have started with lower deck and center part reinforcement. The hull  -
 although it is made of cardboard - is very solid and heavy - it weights more than 3 kg.

Dear friends,
I appreciate your kind words a lot and advice. Thank you very much. That is a great honour for me. I have to say I was thinking about HMS Royal Katherine for a long  time. Finally I have found the courage to start this large project and would like to share it with you...
Here you can see the complete stern of the model, some gunports and other details on the hull were changed to be more accurate and corresponding to the position in the painting of the real ship. 

Ken,all of your deck work looks really good.  I love that there is subtle variation in color among the deck planking.  I agree that painting those interior bulkheads was a sensible compromise.  She's really coming along beautifully and the work is so clean and nice!

Hahaha!! Well it's true. I think everyone of us must enjoy some degree of torment in order to build these things!!

With a hull this big, there will be plenty of elbow pain no matter what power tools get used. And I get to do it twice with double planking!

Thank you all very much for the nice words and to all the "Likes". I love modeling details like this as these are what create those surprise wow moments when people peak in the windows and discover there is stuff to be seen. It was always one of the fun things I like to do on my model railroad for the same reason. It just adds more awe and wonder when you can not only see a great exterior but also a detailed interior.
 
My plan for sanding the hull and protecting the interior is simply tape at the moment. When I go to do the heavy sanding, I will close off the openings to the cabins as best I can with blue painter's tape. That should keep the majority of the dust out. However, I do know that it won't hold it all off and so once done I will take my airbrush and just use a light pressure to blow out the remaining dust. I always blow off a model when I'm done sanding anyway so this isn't anything unusual I will just have to be careful to not knock anything loose. In the event something comes loose which is likely with those chairs, I will still have access through the stern windows. The framing I am doing prior to the sanding is just the rough outline framing to allow the planking to install where needed. The windows and doors will not be fully framed and so I will have plenty of room to get in with tweezers to reset anything that comes loose.
 
That brings me to recent work. As you can see some of that framing has already started. I also had to run the framing on the taffrail to allow for the lantern light wiring to install as well as the start of the framing for the quarter and poop decks. With the wiring in place I can tie them all together to clean up that mess of red and black guts spilling out of the hull and close up the starboard side as well as topping out the planking on both sides. I ran out of the wood I was using to frame the gun ports so a run to the Hobby Store is in order soon so that can be completed. I will have to get the Admiral's permission to take out the Good Ship Visa though as she knows a trip to the hobby store for $10 worth of wood means I will return $100 poorer financially but richer in wood, tools, supplies or just something cool I could not live without!
 
Enjoy the picture updates and thanks for stopping by!