Hubac's Historian

Good day Michael!
Looks Great!!!
Follow your build with great interest!
All The Best!!!
 
 

I love your paint work, especially with your overall detailing of the hull.  The basic kit is very drab with its bare hull; the hull is bereft of any planking detail.  Your addition of such detail, coupled with your excellent paintwork is truly making this into a serious model!  I cannot wait to see the finished product!
 
Bill

I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings.
 
If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.

Thank you very much. The tips are great. I don't know if the translation is accurate? But I get the main point. Or guessed. I will try to implement a new way of working with the scraper. 
What will work (or not) I will try to take pictures with my camera.
P.S. I have after eight years of life fell to the death of the brave my phone. I tried to take pictures with it in the workshop, as I didn't want to keep the camera in a dusty room. But now, along with the phone, the shots I took during the work are gone. So it will not be possible to show the latest changes in the form of gradual changes. There will be only those shots with the current state of the work process. 
In principle, it is not so upsetting. There was nothing new or very interesting in the work. More had to be redone. Several times we had to remove what worked and do it differently. It's even good that I didn't have time to show anything.
But with the arch I will try to shoot step by step. The situation was not so trivial. Perhaps someday it will be useful to look at it again and remember what methods I used to do it. It often happens that I forget myself. So detailed comics about the arch will be useful.
 

The modifications to the rudder are completed, the shackles are in place awaiting the chain, something in the 30 to 40 LPI should suffice for this scale and contemplating adding the rudder coat, overall happy with the result.
 
Michael D.

Starboard side of the gudgeons are completed, at this point I'm unsure if she carried chains or ropes for the rudder and their arraignment, I'm thinking chains and if so, I'll need to search for some super small scale chain. Cheers.
 
Michael D.
 
  

Thank you for the kind comment, Frank.
Rudder work continues, I modified the kits rudder by first cutting it away from the hull and then adding the details, the gudgeons are simulated by using .040" rod and .012" styrene, pintles using the same .012" styrene.
 
Michael D.
 

Thank you, Ian. A majority of the stern work is completed, the gun port lids are installed and added the grid design above the upper glass panes to closely resemble that of the Pett painting, for this I gold leafed tulle as this stood out better than gold paint. Up next, I'll be reworking the rudder before moving back the beak head. As always, I appreciate you all stopping by and taking a peek. 
 
Michael D.
 
 

Okay, I’ve been thinking about this for a little while now.  What I would try is to make 1/2 of the moulded profile from a piece of hacksaw blade, and fix that scraper into a kerf cut into the end of an appropriately small hardwood dowel, the long end if which gets fixed into a flat board.  You are essentially creating a stationary router/scraper.  If hardwood dowel is too feeble, perhaps hard brass rod will do.
 
layout your moulding shape in a piece of stock that is the thickness of the moulding and make sure the stock is large enough to move easily with your two hands.  Cut out the center to your inner lines.  Now you can more comfortably and gradually scrape the profile into the inner edge of the moulding.
 
Once you have achieved the desired profile on the inner surface, you can cut the outside profile of the moulding.  Next, temporarily fix the moulding to a flat surface with an adhesive that can later be dissolved with alcohol.
 
Finally, you can re-purpose your scraper into a longer handle that enables you to easily work around the perimeter of the moulding.  Once satisfied, you can separate the finished moulding from your substrate.

Okay, I’ve been thinking about this for a little while now.  What I would try is to make 1/2 of the moulded profile from a piece of hacksaw blade, and fix that scraper into a kerf cut into the end of an appropriately small hardwood dowel, the long end if which gets fixed into a flat board.  You are essentially creating a stationary router/scraper.  If hardwood dowel is too feeble, perhaps hard brass rod will do.
 
layout your moulding shape in a piece of stock that is the thickness of the moulding and make sure the stock is large enough to move easily with your two hands.  Cut out the center to your inner lines.  Now you can more comfortably and gradually scrape the profile into the inner edge of the moulding.
 
Once you have achieved the desired profile on the inner surface, you can cut the outside profile of the moulding.  Next, temporarily fix the moulding to a flat surface with an adhesive that can later be dissolved with alcohol.
 
Finally, you can re-purpose your scraper into a longer handle that enables you to easily work around the perimeter of the moulding.  Once satisfied, you can separate the finished moulding from your substrate.

Just a quick follow up....All of the coamings and hatches and partners are now glued onto the model.   Not much to see but here are the details.
 
The mast partners went in first.  Really important was to get them down the center line so your masts arent slanted or crooked.   It is best to use a dowel or even any strip of wood near the same diameter as the masts to also check the rake of the masts to determine the position of the partners.   I dont have a picture of that but you guys mostly know this already.
 
The main mast partners needed to have the pump tubes made before I could glue it on the model.  I am only making the pump tubes below deck at this time much like Greg did on his model.  I used a 1/4 x 1/4 cedar strip and marked it out to become octagonal.  I used the 7-10-7 template provided on the plans.   You can see it in the picture below.   Then I drew lines down each side so I could begin shaving the corners.  I just use a sharp #11 blade to carefully shave the corners down to the lines.  Just before the lines actually.   Then I use a sanding stick to finish it off.   Some of you may have some machines that could do this more accurately but this works just fine.   
 

You will notice a small length of 19 gauge black wire I inserted into the top end.  This will be inserted into the holes laser cut in partners.   The pump tubes are not vertical...so when glued into the bottom of the mast partner I created the slant for these using the plans as a guide.
 

 
Then it was just a matter of gluing the main mast partners onto the model.  You can barely see these pump tubes under the partners but here is a bad photo showing them entering the well below deck.  We will make the top half of the pumps much later and the same holes on the mast partners will be used to register them so they look continuous through the deck.  So dont make the wire too long on the top of the tubes.  Make them short enough so some room remains to do the same when we add the top of the elm tree pumps later.
 

The other gratings and hatches were added down the center line permanently.
 
The last remaining issue was the capstan partners.   We need to make the capstan drum below deck.   This is easy enough.  Its just a round drum that tapers.   I started with a 3/8 x 3/8 strip of cedar.  Then I converted that into an octagon just like we did for the pump tubes.  I have provided another 7-10-7 template for this strip so you can proceed to make it an octagon. 
 
Here is a photo after I rounded it off and tapered the octagon.  I just dis this by hand but you can chock it in a hand drill or if you happen to have a lathe....have at it.  The length can be taken from the plans as well as the diameter at the bottom so it fits in the capstan step below deck.
 

 
Once completed I glued the capstan partner onto the center line of the deck so the drum sits in the step nicely.  You might also notice that I made the drum a certain length so there was still room in the hole of the capstan partners.   This will allow me to register the actual capstan above deck after we make it.  Hope that makes sense.
 

 
Thats it for now as I am off to the beach for a few days to recharge....and decompress.   I will be back sometime next week ......or maybe not....
 
 
 

I've seen both closed and open varieties in contemporary models. The closed balcony balustrade would be stronger.

I think it better for ventilation and drainage open.
A model of the Bellona has it open.

I was so tired of Victory builds, UNTIL NOW.  Just tuned in and catching up.  I love that it is the Victory when built in 1765 as it is rarely modeled as she looked then.
Allan

Hi photo Victory .
 

Thank you David, other photos.

Work on the ship is moving slowly. More often it is one step forward and then two steps back. But it is good that it is like that, rather than standing still. 
And there's one problem I've encountered. After several attempts I decided to voice my problem in the chat, maybe someone knows how to solve this problem.
The essence of the issue is as follows. I need to make a molding. And the molding should be in the form of an arc. But unlike previous cases, this arc is not part of the radius. It is an ellipse, moreover, the axes of this figure have “slipped”. I have attached a picture to make it clearer what I am talking about. 
 

The most obvious solution, in my opinion, is milling with a shaped cutter. You can make a blank in the form of an arc of the desired shape, and then cut out the profile of the molding with a router. But the problem is that I don't have a milling machine. 
Previous moldings I made with a shaped scraper. This method allows you to make even radius moldings without machines. But now this option is not suitable. I also could not bend the finished molding, the size of the ellipse is too small. The part crumples and breaks. Maybe someone has already faced such a task and can tell me how to make such a part?
 

the rings are made in the usual manner.  Wrapped around a 47 drill bit and parted with a razor saw. The bent wire is much lighter and thinner gauge.  In my case here…24 gauge for the split rings and 28 gauge for the codder pin bent and inserted into the deck.

Thank you Jim...
 
I have completed all of the hatches, gratings and partners to be placed on deck.  You have seen how the gratings were made.  The two hatches are pretty similar.  The only difference is they have cover boards rather than gratings within in the coamings.
 
 The photo below shows the laser cut coamings assembled.  There is no need to remove the laser char from the lap joints at the corners.  In fact it probably isnt a good idea at all.  They are precision cut so you end up with a perfectly squared up coaming the correct size.  You can and should sand both sides of the sheet before removing these laser cut parts to clean the char from those sides.  Just glue them up using the same right angle jig provided earlier.   Then sand the char off the top of the completed coaming being careful to keep the round-up consistent. 
 
You can see the smaller hatch completed.  The larger one shows the three cover boards also laser cut waiting to be glued into position.  But this you will also note the ledge created on the inside of the coaming that the cover boards will sit into.  These are laser cut for you and can be glued on the port and starboard insides of the coaming.
 

This photo shows the three coverboards in the coaming.  They are pretty thick, but only so they are flush with the center of the coaming to allow for the round-up.   The round-up along the sides of the coverboards should be sanded flush to the top edge of the coamings along the P & S sides.  I know some folks like to show one or two coverboards off the coaming.  You can do this if you want to.  But then you should sand that roundup into the bottom of the coverboards as well.   But I will show them all in place like the contemporary model.
 

To finish off the hatches...round off the corners using the right angle jig like you did for the gratings.   Trim them down to the top of the deck planking.   The bolts were added using black fishing line in the same way.   The iron ring for handles were made just like those on the lower platforms.  Exactly the same.
 

Also shown in the photo above are the mast and capstan partners.   These are completely laser cut for you.  They have etched lines to show the separate sections.   All you have to do is sand them clean and round off the corners as described earlier for the capstan partners only.  Soften the top edges as well.  Add the fishing line bolts and the eye bolts on the main mast partners.  Now some of these can be glued onto the model.  They are all ready to go so you can start planking the decks.
 
BUT there are a some like the main mast partners and capstan partners that need some extra work.   I will describe that next.   For example the elm pump tubes below the main mast partners and the capstan drum as well.
 
More to follow...but here is a photo with the all of the hatches, coamings and partners simply test positioned on the model.  They are not glued into position yet.   I did however glue the smaller grating and coaming on the forecastle deck in permanently....those are all finished up.  Its getting there!!!
 

All of the woodwork is just beautifully executed.  Not a stray line to be found!

All of the woodwork is just beautifully executed.  Not a stray line to be found!

All of the woodwork is just beautifully executed.  Not a stray line to be found!

Hallo Modellbaufreunde.