leginseel

Hi Nigel,
 
I hadn't noticed that the MacAllan had sneaked into that photo!
As for daunting, yes! - - - when I first got the Lennarth Petersson book I remember looking through it and being completely bewildered.
 
BUT - I'm slowly finding my way by trying just to concentrate on the particular part of the rigging I'm working on at any one time.
 
Since yesterday I've made a couple of dummy mastheads, one for the mizzen and one for the main. (Haven't arrived at the fore yet.)
By using these it should take a bit of the guesswork out of obtaining the correct size of loop in the shroud pairs for fitting their respective mastheads for real >>>

Also, as the crossjack hadn't been in contact with the mizzen I had a go at making the sling for it. It was a bit fiddly to make but I was able to make it 'off site' ~ meaning I wasn't hampered by having to mess around with the crossjack at the same time. I've left a long tail on it for now and I'll trim it once the yard is on the mast properly >>>

Here it hangs around the mast cap . . . just so that I could see how it looks! >>>
(The clamp is just there holding the top in position while I threaded the sling up through the hole and round the cap. The black thread sticking above the cap is the excess tail which will be trimmed when everything is permanent.)
 
I've also made the truss pendant but that was a lot more tricky as it had to be made directly onto the yard. At least I hope this is serving me well as the mizzen, being the smallest of the masts, everything for the other masts should hopefully be a little easier due to the slightly larger sizes I'll have to work with. 
 
I'm now beginning to suss in what order I'll have to do things when I'm done 'practising' and get this rigging started for real.

Hi Jim, so much to get your head around.  I'm a long way off but it seems pretty daunting.  I trust the Macallan Gold slipped down well !!  35C here in Antalya at the moment so enjoy the Portuguese sunshine and have a great holiday. 
Cheers
Nigel

Hi Jim I'm new to your log but I have to say what astounding workmanship.  You should be duly proud.  I'm a novice but you're on my list now as the log is so instructive.  Brilliant work, thank you for sharing it.
Cheers
Nigel

Genius!!  Good luck with it and I too would be interested in following your log.
Cheers
Nigel

Hello all some of you may be wondering why I haven't posted in a few days that's because I have been spending most of my free time researching ,sourcing and planning my next build ive been contemplating my next build for some time now and have finally pulled the trigger on it the box arrived today
 

 
 
CUATION SOME VIEWERS MAY FIND THE NEXT IMAGE OFFENSIVE SCROLL DOWN AT OWN DISCRETION
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



She sure is a large kit and I have zero experience in the rc or aircraft world so wish me luck
I will ofcourse not be starting this until completion of the bounty its just  the first step towards my next build there is much research to do and lots of other items required to build
 
heres a vid of the same kit completed
 
 
 
I will continue on with the bounty and try to keep further posts ship related

Lower shrouds all rigged but only left loose and numbered, this allows me to fit the mainstays as they loop over the shrouds. Also leaving them loose gives me the access needed to fit all the inner lines. 
 

I have been trying to rig this ship, I say trying because it's quite a minefield when it's your first. I was getting ready to instal the standing rigging but this has to be done after the shrouds which has to be done after the running rigging parts to enable access to the belay pins. I have adopted Josh's method and fit the shrouds at the top but not onto the dead eyes. This enables me to fit the standing rigging over the shrouds and then move the shrouds to access the belay pins. I am trying to do her rigging as accurate as my scale allows, here is a few pictures of my seezed shrouds 

Popeye, Tom, Joshua and Nigel, thanks for the comments and to the others for the likes.
 
Nigel wrote -- "I'm a novice but you're on my list now as the log is so instructive." -- I'm glad you find it instructive. In one of my early posts I said that I don't show very much in the way of the procedures I try to follow as I feel they're much better presented by so many other builders here on the forum, but if there's anything you've found helpful then I'm delighted.
(By the way ~ nice locations, Antalya and Derbyshire!)
 
On 28 March I wrote -- " . . . then it will soon be time to be thinking about the scary rigging for real. " I'm now beginning to get the full understanding of the 'scary' part!
Arriving at this adventure for the first time, procedures are a bit of an experiment for me. 
When I see how fiddly it can be to get some of the yards attached to the masts I felt it might be just a step too far for me to try to fit them after the masts are stepped and the shrouds attached. I was quite pleased to find this topic recently >> https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15687-masts-and-spars-off-site/  and have decided that's the way I'm going to try to go.
 
Before I made a start with all those bits of thread I realised I would probably need a few more belaying points that are shown on the plans so I had another go at turning some toothpicks down to form belaying pins. I had previously tried with the toothpicks some time ago but was having too many breakages and eventually bought some from Cornwall Model Boats. These were a bit fat for scale and I had better success in turning them down a bit thinner. I thought I'd give the toothpicks another chance to redeem themselves, and while there were breakages I did get the amount I needed. Here's one of the survivors  >>>

I also managed to squeeze five cleats on the mizzen mast below the spanker boom saddle and four on to the main mast just behind the main jeer bitts. Here are the main mast cleats >>>

At the main masthead the lift blocks and the upper jeer blocks are fitted as well as the block for the mizzen topmast stay >>>

The spanker gaff, boom and mizzen crossjack >>>

I'm not sure of the authenticity of metal stirrups for the yards' footropes, but I've seen a few models on the forum which have them, so I used 0.5mm brass wire pushed and glued into 0.5mm holes drilled in the yard. I worked for me and has the added benefit of reducing the amount of string tying and making knots - - - and that's definitely a bonus for me!
The almost finished mizzen crossjack hasn't met the mast yet and here (in this poor picture) sits along the main top >>>

Right now I've still to figure how to create the truss pendants and sling for the crossjack but I've temporarily rigged the gaff and boom as an experiment to see just how tricky it's going to be to get all the necessary rigging done. The next pic shows several weights/clamps hanging around simulating roughly how the gaff and boom might look as I try to calculate all of the difficulties that lie in wait for me >>>

In that photo above the mizzen top lies on the quarterdeck wondering how it can ever be fitted with all that rigging around the masthead. Of course, the answer is -- IT CAN'T BE!
The gaff peak halliard and the boom topping lift have to be 'un-rigged' before the top can be fitted. I tried this mock-up hoping to find that I might be able to fit the shrouds with the top in position. I undid the topping lift and the peak halliard and clamped the top on to the trestletrees/crosstrees and tried rigging a dummy 1 & 2 shrouds on starboard side. It could be done but with a lot of huffing and puffing and some uttering of unpleasant words partly because of having to mess with trying to get the shrouds down the lubber hole in the top. I then realised that the shrouds could be done with the top removed but even that was tricky when trying to seize the 2 shrouds together. (It doesn't help when trying to see how to tie 2 black shrouds with black thread against the black background of the blackened masthead . . . too much blackness here!)
I wondered if the shrouds could be seized when off the mast and tried doing it around a spare dowel clamped in a vice >>>

The pair of shrouds can then be taken and placed over the masthead and down onto the bolsters. I realised that if I carry on this way then there has to be a way of identifying each shroud ( 1 - 7 on each side of the mast) so I hung a clamp on each of the first two as seen here >>>

With seven shrouds on each side, that's 14 clamps required (and that's only the mizzen - 24/22 on the main and fore!) and I don't have that many clamps - - - nor would there be space for them, so I'm trying to keep them in position by taping them to a card. As none of the sailors have yet placed their hammocks in the cranes, that will be the ideal place to keep the card >>>

In the photo two above, an eyebolt can be seen in the underside of the gaff jaws. I found that when lifting the gaff with the throat halliard the jaws of the gaff tended to want to rise up, so I fitted that eye and attached a line (a downhaul?) and cleated it off at the mast below the boom saddle at the port side. (Elevating the gaff with the peak halliard helped reduce the amount by which the jaw wanted to rise, but there was still that tendency, so downhaul it was for me - - it works.)
None of the rigging seen in the above photos has any permanency right now, and the masts are only placed in temporarily, but I now have a slightly better idea of how to tackle some aspects of this fun project!
In a couple of days I'm off to Portugal so there won't be much rigging done for the next couple of weeks. (There may be a little swigging done?)
 

Hi Jim I'm new to your log but I have to say what astounding workmanship.  You should be duly proud.  I'm a novice but you're on my list now as the log is so instructive.  Brilliant work, thank you for sharing it.
Cheers
Nigel

Anchor assembly
 

 

Crow's nest is complete

The crow's nest 

You won't find a better modeller to learn from Fernando. I'll await your log with interest. 
Cheers
Nigel

You won't find a better modeller to learn from Fernando. I'll await your log with interest. 
Cheers
Nigel

Hi Steve, as a newbie to model ship building I stumbled on your build log and have been very impressed with the detail provided. I have also been able to get quite a few ideas and suggestions when I start my third build (Colonial Sloop Norfolk by Modelers Shipyard) in the next couple of weeks.
 
Your work and detail of finish is fantastic....something I hope I can achieve. Keep up with the build log and I will be following your log with great interest.
 
Cheers.........Fernando

Thanks Nigel yeah there plastic should be able to give you an idea of how they turn out over the course of next few days 

Great stuff!!  I hope that you don't mind but I'm convinced that your build will be the best point of reference for when I start to fit mine out. Thank you in advance. 

Great stuff!!  I hope that you don't mind but I'm convinced that your build will be the best point of reference for when I start to fit mine out. Thank you in advance. 

Hi Steve I'm away for a few days but I saw your post and I too have found Cornwall and it's a real Alladins Cave. What material is the cutter made from as it appears to be plastic. Do you clad it with planking to get a clinkered effect?
The blocks look real quality from Caldercraft so I think I'll be looking at them for future kits. 
Cheers
Nigel

Thanks Glen that is extremely helpful and I hear you on ditching the black paper I am currently in the process of ripping some timber for the job im assuming your having all the inside of the boat the same colour I would like to paint the hull white inside and stain the wood before adding it but not sure how that will turn out
Thanks again a picture says more than a thousand words the instructions are a lot more clear to me now after seeing the pictures
 
thanks keith I keep searching caldercraft bounty for the boats it never occurred to look at victory builds I will get right on it

Steve,
 
I made a couple of these a few years back. Hear are a few tips:
Lose the black paper. For the ribs use some thin wooden strip instead, it looks much better. I could not get that bit of wood they supply as a floor to fit in any of them. I replaced this with a few planks run along the length on top of the wood ribs. Find some pictures or drawings of the real things. Try and add the fittings for masts, knees etc. Gratings always help. I just used 0.5mm strips at right angles. Its difficult to tell the difference when they are that small and thin. I have got one that's not finished yet, I will take a couple of pictures this evening and post them to show you what I mean.
 
You are making a good job of the Billings kit. I have also found it necessary to replace some of the supplied parts. I see from your pictures that the blocks and deadeyes  they supply are the same ones as supplied on my model even though the ships they represent were launched 150 years apart.
 
Glenn

Hello all arrived home from work today to a pleasant surprise my cornwall order
 
remaining 8mm belaying pins

 
six mm chainplate

 
lettering for transom

walnut blocks

and last but not least 24' cutter/jollyboat

shown next to the billings scale drawing I think the size is spot on
caldercraft on left billings on right

the instructions seem a bit difficult to take in on one breath and ive read them several times and still a bit lost ,I do wish I could find a log with one of the little caldercraft boats being built but im sure I will work it out and be able to post here and help others

thanks for viewing and if anyone knows of a log of the little kit please direct me
 
 

So as promised here is what I have been up to on the bounty while awaiting final parts required and alongside my other little build the fast patrol launch
 

 
I am adding as many lines as possible to the masts off ship this will speed things up dramatically however it feels very commercial and I was happier with my previous build just to add one line at a time on ship and keep everything tidy ,even tho it does mean a lot of tedious fidely work
 

 
I am not going for super accuracy on the rigging ,more just as billings intended ,the ship is already inaccurate in many ways so I don't feel the need to spend three four five years rigging
I hope to keep the whole build down to under one year .
 
the last thing I need is the sails that came with the kit sewed up for me so I cut them all to size and took them to a seemstres I was quoted fifty pounds due to the work actually involved and I do understand that but was a bit shocked ,I have tried buying pre sewn sails in 1/50 but have been unsuccessfull
my mother has volunteered to give the sails a go and they are currently at her house so will hopefully get to show you them in next couple of weeks.
we will see how they turn out but I think I will use them regardless of how they turn out as it will be nice to have another family members touch involved in the build .
I have given my mother the pictures on the box and asked if she can replicate that ,they are far from realistic but I do like a ship to have sails
 


thanks for viewing
 
steve

Hi Steve, I've just been looking at your 'lump of wood' for the small boat as I got something similar with mine.  However. have you checked this log out   
Take a look at his construction method for his boats it's genius (but seriously difficult).  As I was only supplied one small boat with my kit I'm going to have a go at producing the larger of the two boats as per John McKay.
Cheers
Nigel

Hi Steve, I've just been looking at your 'lump of wood' for the small boat as I got something similar with mine.  However. have you checked this log out   
Take a look at his construction method for his boats it's genius (but seriously difficult).  As I was only supplied one small boat with my kit I'm going to have a go at producing the larger of the two boats as per John McKay.
Cheers
Nigel