rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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I'm sure anywhere near the top won't make or break the situation. Like I said, all my personal research has shown they are typically (actually every time) are depicted right on top. Even the big German Square riggers showed them there. I tend to lean to symmetry. Truss on the back, lift bolts on top, blocks placed typically at 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock....and the sheet blocks right beneath. The stirrups secure to them, then hang aft....the beckets or sail straps hang from the front. It....to me, is based on symmetry. No reason to make it anything different. IMHV. Rob
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From my research the jackstays were top center. Here is a pic to show you.
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Sounds about right...what is the diameter of the yard at full scale? That might give you a bit more perspective. Rob
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Rick...all your metal work looks good and the yard is rigging well. If I may make one suggestion. Don't let your footropes and especially your stirrups get too long. Imagine a scale man standing on one and trying to lean over the yard to work the sails. Your stirrup, footrope needs to be drawn up closer to the yard. I suggest this change now before you make any more. Take some time to study some photos and some real footropes. You will see they are much closer to the yard. Scale is very important at this stage. Rob
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Indeed, we will never know. However, That victory for T didn't last long, when the news got around that the mid ocean repair and jury rig of the CS's jury rudder. Made from spare spars and reforged ironworks. Braught great acclaim to the CS captain and crew from the owners and insurers. What a feat. In mid ocean...amidst, a boiling sea, the ingenious captain and crew, built and hung, (crew diving under the water to secure the rudder) , (blacksmith having his forge doused twice by high waves), their new rudder. Never giving up and making land for repairs. Hence the phrase, *Wooden ships, Iron Men*. CS still won the day.......in a way. Rob
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rigging in front of yard arms?
rwiederrich replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Indeed....clewed to the mast simply meant you furled the sails up close to the mast and when they unfurled the clews would fall and be pulled outward. this tended to make the sails bunch up at the parrel point. However commercial ships generally used the other furling method which furled the sail directly up, leaving the clew as presented in this image. the sail would fall and the clews would be in place outboard. I suspected that if you were an ole Navy man...you'd furl clews to the mast...... From my research it appears that clewing to the mast on commercial ships was done mostly before the double topsail was introduced...as depicted in the image you presented. Rob
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rigging in front of yard arms?
rwiederrich replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Johnny...it has to do if the sail is rigged military style...with the clews to the mast or commercial with them rigged as you see on the Glory of the Seas. There is a name for both, but I can't recall them off the top of my head at this time. It is true that the rigging on commercial vessels as a matter of the captains, or owner's preference. Rob -
rigging in front of yard arms?
rwiederrich replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Bunt line and gaskets were used over the front of yards and sails. Gaskets were used to secure sails during their furling. These images of my scratch built Clipper Glory of the Seas....shows this.
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I'm glad I'm not become a pest. At this scale serving will not serve you well. HeeHee. You will be attempting to cram as much detail into this model...do not try to be the purist....A little can go a long way...and more can actually destroy...because at this scale it all tends to be waaay out of scale. And if you managed to keep it in scale the detail is too small to be really appreciated. Rob
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Indeed...if you want to be accurate, you will need to reduce the framing of the bulwarks considerably. I typically assume...builders of model kits are going to adhere to the kit limitations on design and accuracy. At that scale the deck planking also appears too large. The strakes appear too wide...over a foot at scale. However, this is not any kind of a deal breaker(sorry to be a nit-picker). Thus far you have Abely corrected internal kit errors, and I suspect you will be called upon to do so in the future. I'm not unfamiliar with having to *Rip-out* entire construction elements...because of a scale or completely inaccurate construction mistake. Please do not let my overly critical critique hinder your wonderful progress. I have been building clipper ships for over 52 years and any experience I may have picked up...can tend to be misinterpreted as me being a *Know-it-all*. My honest desire is to help you (If I can) , build the most accurate model your skills permit. You're doing wonderful. Rob
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She's moving along nicely. You've overcome some real issues with the alignment of the bulkheads....you've done well. Faring out the bulkheads will be fun and the blocking too. Following with interest. Rob
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Well....I'm simple man and I never gave it to much thought...as to many techniques. For all my models....I use a simple method. I just spread a thin layer of clear drying wood glue on a plastic surface. Then I simply begin in the center and roll around the rope on itself edge to edge...till I have the desired amount laid out. Then using a sharp tool or tweezer, I slowly pic it up from the glue and relocate it on the area needing a rope coil. I make some mods...adjusting for proper lay and....Shazamm! It stays exactly where placed and it dries clear. I use this method for all rope coil needs. Here is a pic to show the finished item. Rob
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Era Identification is very important. Cutty experienced several changes while in the hands of the Portugues. Namely the addition of the forward (In front of the foremast and aft cabin entry to her poop carriage house, just in front of the wheel. You can see many examples of different slightly different examples of Cutty...for the most part, they are all correct....but just at different times. One observer may say, *Hey that forward hatch is not right*, Or she never had forward crane davits(for the anchors)....... My own experience with building the Glory of the Seas easily demonstrated that you had to be quite specific in your era...because she under went so many drastic changes. All correct, but not all at the same time....during a specific time. As far as Cutty is concerned...other then my own attempt...I have not yet seen an example of her when she was re-rigged as a barkentine and painted in her gun port anti pirate scheme. Bruma's example is fantastic...shows imagination, skill and authenticity. Rob
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If the keel is Wong, possibly the seats for the bulkheads could be compromised. However , it looks like Harry has things under control at this point. We’ll wait and see if the bulkheads all align when planking gets underway. For me, this is one particular reason why I scratch build. But it’s not the end of the world. Anything can be fixed. Im following with great interest. Rob
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Just reviewing the images……why in the world don’t the keel frames align properly, and why don’t the forward bulkheads fit within their pre deck slots along the waterways? From a kit, this seams extremely disappointing……. Pointing to QC issues. Or am I missing something? Rob
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Great job for sure, on the metal work. I always wondered why the Flying Fish is rigged in this manner. Double gin blocks for the lifts. Not another McKay clipper is depicted with such an arrangement. I can only gather that as Donald McKay never, (Cept for his sister ships), ever designed the same model. He ever was experimenting with designs for better performance. This included his clippers rigging designs, as well. His behemoth, Great Republic was his first and only application of the New Forbes double topsail design and its varied unique associated rigging . All subsequent clippers had the Howes double topsail design, with is more standard and reliable rigging concept. I'm enjoying your build. Rob
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How are things coming along? I was reviewing your log and I had to sit and look over your carriage house front. My issue is not with your wonderful work....it is with the representation of the house's front facade. McKay used quite a bit of decorating and details. He always went above and beyond in his finishings. I'm quite disappointed in the representation that this particular scale drawing, (used by you and many others), which depicts the Flying Fish with such meagre...barn like features. Quite unbecoming of any other McKay design and or description we have of many of his other ships. This, in no way reflects on your skillful execution. McKay's last clipper... Glory of the Seas, was quite ornamental. A stark contrast to the Flying Fish. Rob
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It's all a mess right now....but once the timbers are in place and I can fit in the decking.... it will begin to look better and the deck plan will become clearer. Rob
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Spent about an hour working on the aft house that is beside the catwalk. I set a mock-up catwalk as well ….running aft to the poop deck. I also began to modify the wheelhouse. I have stern Timbers to install and floor beams for the decking still to install. Rob
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Are you asking about the stay eye bold spread? The distance from one eye bolt to the next……in your scale? Rob
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Well that depends on the diameter of each yard. I tend to use my eye...since wire guage can be tricky..dependant upon country and manufacture origin. Here is a pic of a jackstay on a yard from a downeaster...windjammer. A grandson of its predecessor the clipper. Rob
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Lift lines on cutty sark ,Revell 1/96
rwiederrich replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Please understand...I meant no disrespect, concerning any research you may have done or not done. Research is just as much effected by evolution as are your skills. Your model is clean and well executed for sure. I like to tell a story with my model.......along with the model itself. I like to include my models in a scene depicting an actual historical even the vessel was involved in. This tends to *draw* the viewer in, to not only the model...but its historical events. This *ways* depiction shows the jury rudder that was built and affixed to Cutty's rudder post...after she lost it during the grate race she had with her rival, Thermopylae. Though Thermopylae won the race...Cutty Sark was rewarded with Great praise and accolades for the daring and brilliant feat of rigging a rudder mid ocean during a squall. This event was worthy of a diorama, depicting the removal and replacement of her jury rudder with a new rudder. It also gave me license to include forge material and all the necessary tooling and staging required for the job. Not to mention the jury rig and rudder themselves. I also depicted some loosed copper plates being refit on her cutwater forward. Rob(Follow my personal link to more images) -
Lift lines on cutty sark ,Revell 1/96
rwiederrich replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Quite beautifully done. Not to be a Debby Downer, but most people make the mistake of adding the second rail on the railing protecting the carriage house deck. This image shows otherwise. Not worth changing......but an example as to why research...research.....research is as important as applying good workmanship skills. I truly enjoy the fact that you actually curved the rails....to follow the stern curvature. Nice detail. I captured that detail n my own Cutty rudder replacement diorama.
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Thanks Rick. One of the last details I will add to the water, is the white caps and spray on top of the white. It will add a significant 3D effect to the water at the hull, water interface. Once I finish the fantail, I’ll focus on the addition of the poop deck. So much to do. This is a near complete redo of the decks and deck furniture……..under the shrouded masts. Rob
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