GemmaJF
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GemmaJF reacted to captain_hook in Armed Virginia Sloop By captain_hook - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48
Brian, I followed your suggestion and doubled the filler blocks. My daughter watched Harry Potter first time on TV today. Guess what she asked me to build for her after that....yes, a magic wand. Took me some time to do that, lucky me, had some castello strips left for that. So building will continue tomorrow...
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GemmaJF reacted to captgino in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Small update.
Custom fitted the main rail on my AVS. The one provided by the kit was not adequate.
I cut the new rail out of 1/16 walnut and did the first stain with ink.
I have some touch up to do with the paint but I have decided to wait until I drill the sweep ports to do it.
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GemmaJF reacted to mtaylor in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
Gemma,
To get you started.. have a look at the database of articles here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php The Plans and Research area has articles on lines drawings (and how to read them) and some CAD tutorials.
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GemmaJF reacted to BIGMAC in GUN PORTS...Which one is correct?
Not sure which one of B, C or D is correct....
A...Deck line parallel to water line...Ok, thats easy. Just a square.
In cases B, C and D, the deck line not parallel to W.L.
B is like A....the left and right sides vertical to the Water Line, up and down parallel to the W.L.
C has left and right sides vertical to the Water Line, up and down parallel to the Deck....Not a square. No right angles.
D is a square with left and right sides "vertical" to the Deck Line, up and down "parallel" to the Deck Line.
Think D is the correct one, not sure though........
Any Advice pls?
Thanks,
Mike.
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GemmaJF reacted to thibaultron in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
Yes, the accuracy of CAD can be to distracting, sometimes. I draw my plans out full size, then reduce them for printing. I have to keep reminding my self, that no one built a wooden ship to 0.001 inch accuracy!
I leave the CAD set at 0.001", just because I do make some drawings that need it, and I'm sure I would forget to change it back and forth.
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GemmaJF reacted to Kishmul in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
In my experience (limited, but extending to ships, horse-drawn vehicles, boxes and doll's houses) it is rare to find a set of plans that are 100% accurate.
To avoid frustration in the workshop (and the creation of large amounts of interestingly-shaped but expensive firewood) I "build" the model in 3D CAD in advance. This is not devoid of problems. CAD can be too accurate! That irritating gap that you have spotted and zoomed in to inspect is 1/512 of an inch wide, glue will fill that. Using the array function to place three portholes equally across a ten inch bulkhead creates an issue. Mixing units is possible and may be of use - buying rather than turning two hundred stanchions is a good notion, but if they are sold in mm and you are working in inches.......
To overcome this, I set the precision in CAD to that which I might reasonably attain in the workshop- for wood 1/64".
Even using this method, and checking wood dimensions as I go, planked hulls always require a final sanding to look "right".
I appreciate the dilemma when plans appear way off but many are xth generation copies of hand-drawn lines.
Imagine the problem of lifting lines from a 1:48 paper plan to create a full-size vessel with a keel in excess of one hundred feet.
CAD is an increasingly useful tool, fairing is still essential.
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GemmaJF reacted to Heronguy in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
GemmaJF, We'll stand on each other shoulders to reach up (I'm a little confused by the visual of THAT but the sentiment makes sense to me). I've seen your contributions on other builds and forums too and I'm learning from you.
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GemmaJF reacted to thibaultron in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
Here is an example of a 3D drawing of a boat I am doing. The plans showed the frames forward of the break fairly accurately, but the drawings of the aft frames were garbage. By drawing everything in 3D I was able to work down to these final lines, by taking what accurate data I could find in other sections of the plans, and adjusting the aft frames over several iterations.
By doing this I can also readily see that all the lines are fair in all 3 projections.
I used a function of my CAD that draws a curve between several points. If all my data is good I get smooth lines. If not, I can see what points are out of line. Then I redraw the line, skipping the bad point(s). Now if the lines is good, I can take measurements, and redraw the frame(s) with the new data.
I can also select each window, and make it full screen, to see finer detail.
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GemmaJF reacted to Frankberge in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Thank you very much but i dont think my boat looks good haha. There is allot of mistakes if i zoom in on areas:) the ratlines and shrouds are one of my mistakes. I didnt read the drawing well enough and thougt all the deadeyes would connect to my ratlines. Also some of the deadeyes twists all the time. And the seizing are just fakes. I took some photos on how i did it. I learnt it on a website somewhere. First i find something round that will fit the size of the ropes i will use. This time it was a small drill bit. I put some wax on it so the ca glue wont stick later on. Then i just twist the rope around it. Put a drop of ca glue on and cut of the ends. And drag it off the drillbit Then you have a fake seizing. To make the other rope that will go into fit inside just put a small drop of ca glue on the end and twist it . Then i will pass the hole in the fake seizing without problem. Just cut of the part that has ca glue on it after.
About the sails, i dont know myself. I want to put them on, but i think it looks nice without them aswell. So i just put it on my shelf for now. And when i have time and figure out how to make the sails i will probably put them on. But for now they stay in my box:)
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GemmaJF reacted to druxey in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
I'd forgotten to mention the David White series, which was excellent. Well worth hunting down indeed.
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GemmaJF reacted to Mark P in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
Hi Gemma;
Speaking of Model Shipwright, David White wrote and illustrated a series of articles on understanding ships' draughts, and the construction of wooden ships. These started in issue 46, and the two subjects alternated through succeeding issues well into the 60s. Unfortunately, the series ended without being completed; nobody knows why. But what was published covered most topics.
They are mostly about the 18th century, and explain so much, so clearly, that if you can get access to a set, or these issues, it is well worth it.
I refer back to mine regularly.
All the best,
Mark P
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GemmaJF reacted to thibaultron in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
After I get my initial frames done I lay them out in 3D and check the flow of the lines. I can't show an example, my main computer power supply died, and it has most of my files on it.
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GemmaJF reacted to thibaultron in Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial using SketchUp
I contacted Shapeways, and found out the trouble with the dredge frame designs. Their page shows limits of .3mm for walls supported on both ends, and .6mm for those that are hanging in mid air at one end.
This applies to square/rectangular shapes only! For round cross sectional parts the limits are .6mm and .8mm respectively.
I can redo the 1/32nd part, with work, by increasing the smaller 5/8" scale frame parts to about .8", not bad. I just wish I had known this when I started!
For the 1/64th parts, I will have to get creative. I think that if I design the parts to lay flat in sections, with the bottom square, I can do it. I will then have to scrape the flat parts of the sections round, like if I was scraping wooden parts to a shape for molding, or other formed surfaces.
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GemmaJF reacted to druxey in Planking Clamp Use
It would be great if I could persuade folk to bend planks (by steam or dry heat) so that they would be shaped to 'sit' nicely along the hull without need for 'persuasion' by screws, clamps or other devices of torture!
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GemmaJF reacted to Blighty in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Hi,
First off, thx to all who are looking in on my log, it is very rewarding to see other modellers keeping an eye on what's going on.
I've been practicing with the pastels I bought from Michael's, I was recommended the Artist's Loft brand, it's Michael's own brand so I was told. Great deal 40% off, only cost eight bucks, they work great. I'm starting to use more and more on the model but I've still got a lot of practice to get confident with them. On scrap wood I have tried all the options except the wet water technique, I need bigger pieces of scrap wood to fully check that out. .........coming soon!
A fair amount of updates done since my last post;-
Painted the interiors white.
95% completed the deck with touch ups, vinegar wash, sanded bare spots of wood in heavy traffic areas.
Added mud line to one side of hull, repainted the detail after sanding off my first attempt.
Upon reflection, I would not have painted the hull so early on in my build, I think I have learned a lot on aging/weathering a boat on other smaller parts that were easier to paint over and redo. The hull is to important a part to showcase my shortcoming. Adding chalking effect, I like it.
Added the rubbing strips on both sides.
That's about it.
My son, Rossi46 is on his way over to check it out so I have to go and hide my beers.
Sorry I was going to add some pics but my battery is flat, be loaded shortly.
Len
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GemmaJF reacted to Blighty in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Hi Cathead,
You 'nailed' the 2 concerns I have also. The clearance from back of boiler to rear face of the division wall at true scale is 2'6" and opening through to cargo area is 5'. Considering the plentiful manual labour available, I figured 5' was plenty wide enough for hand loading cargo.
Ideally I would have liked to reduce the boiler length by an inch (4')to push the wall forward and increase the gap between the wall and the back of boiler but doing a comparison of boiler volume between Chaperon's 3 boilers and a similar ship I found 'the Evansville, which had a 2 boiler system, the volumes were the same, 500 cubic feet. Hence the reduced width of the wall to maximize opening.
The other thing is, I think it looks cool, but I'm still on the fence as to whether include it or not.
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GemmaJF reacted to druxey in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
...aaand - down the rabbit hole you go!
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GemmaJF reacted to druxey in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
Not wanting to put you off, Gemma, but there's an awful lot to learn about naval architecture! One article that is helpful in basics was published many years ago in Model Shipwright. No's 22, 23. I'm PM'ing you information.
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GemmaJF reacted to S.Coleman in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Better veiw here. These lines were coated in beeswax and glued with 50:50 white glue. I find it easier to handle off the ship when stropping these.
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GemmaJF reacted to russ in How to deal with badly drawn plans?
I have been using CAD for about 10 years. I spent years before that drawing by hand, using pencil and vellum. While CAD allows for a neater and more accurate drawing, there is no substitute the hard work of fairing. I use waterlines, buttock lines, and diagonals to make sure that the hull is faired. It is a tedious process of going back and forth from body sections to sheer profile to half breadth, over and over, checking waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals. Move a little here, move a little there, go back and recheck, re-measure, look at the lines, and then when you are really certain that it all looks good, save and walk away, then come back tomorrow and check it again.
One book that I found very useful was Howard Chapelle's Boatbuilding. One chapter takes you through the layout and lofting, step by step of a small sailing craft. I also got a lot from reading Underhill's Plank on Frame Models volume 1. There are other books out there, but those are two of my favorites.
Russ
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GemmaJF reacted to S.Coleman in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Hello there. To stop the line from being fuzzy, run some beeswax with your fingers before rigging throughout the dead eyes.
I always pre-turn my chainplate deadeyes so that one of the holes are on the bottom. Fasten with the smallest amount of glue.
White wood glue works best for rigging. But please dilute this glue so it can soak into the lines. About 50:50 dilute.
Keeping the whole assembly from twisting is the key.
To do this make sure the shroud line is not twisted, Then as you have passed the line through the deadeyes and need to tie off around the shroud make sure no tension is trying to turn it by alternating which side you are bringing the line around to tie off. Hope this is helpful.
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GemmaJF reacted to Blighty in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Just about finished the stack clearance issue, looks ok.
I also added a division wall at the back of the boiler. I imagined this would be a useful, REMOVABLE option dependant on cargo carrying requirements.
Note, the division wall is not the full width of the boiler house, it is meant to protect the cargo from the bulk of coal dust, heat etc. but maximizing the opening into the forward compartment as well as offering a solid backup for 'stuff' to be stacked against.
Could this be a real world option, if not I'll likely remove it, but if I was the boat operator I would want to maximize flexibility of cargo capacity/security.
I will not paint this panel, I'll give it the vinegar treatment, which incidently I did as a top coat on the deck, I think it stained down well.
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GemmaJF reacted to Jond in Bluenose by Jond - 1:24 scale - RADIO - Racing Schooner
The last few months have not included much modeling time. I hope to get back to it soon. In the mean time we had a winter session of our Downeast Shipmodelers Guild at the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. After a good lunch and a few tales we got to the fun stuff.
A friend help me load up and deliver Bluenose to the meeting and we had a good session talking about the plus and minus of working at this large scale. -
GemmaJF reacted to Blighty in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
My mod is a variation on Kurt's fix.
I clipped 39A into position and used that as a template to mark up the relocated vertical pole at the front.
Drilled new holes and glued the posts to 39 only, not to the deck as I do not need that part asm'd at this time.
I then plugged the original hole.
The front portion of the 39A rail will be removed after I have glued into the deck the posts as I can use the rail for correct height location.
See pics below.
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