Jim Rogers

I have reached another small milestone.  All of the below deck fittings and cabins are completed.  The gun deck is fully framed as well.   Next up I will start planking the inboard bulwarks.   That should make a huge difference.  
 
I hope to see many of you this weekend at the New London show.   It should be a very enjoyable weekend.   I am looking forward to it.
 







 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

Thanks guys….
 
Yes I have mailed a few.  It depends on the country.  Some countries wont allow first class mail or the cheapest option and only allow priority mail.   It weighs about 9 pounds give or take.
 
I just shipped one to Italy for $99 US shipping.
 
I sent others which were around $85
 
So far the most expensive was $149 but I charge $99 usually so I take the hit if its more.
 
So probably around $99
 
 

Next I painted the figurehead. I plan on painting and staining my model as I always do. 

Just a quick update.  It might not look like a lot of work was done since my last post but you would be surprised how involved the deck beams can be.
 
With the cabins on the fore lower platform completed,  you can start adding deck beams above them.  No reason to wait until everything is built below deck to do so.  In fact, waiting to do it all at one time wont be very enjoyable.  Doing it this way breaks up the task a bit.
 
This kit will be very simplified compared to the books.  Because we will be planking the gun deck in the "classic" contemporary model style,  there is absolutely no need to make and add the hanging and lodging knees.   In fact, this would up the difficulty factor by about ten.   So we will just be adding the deck beams with all of the carlings and ledges.  You can however follow the Seawatch books and scratch build the knees should you really want the total experience.
 
 
The photo below has a lot going on that was completed.
 

First, The first four deck beams were glued into position...
 
Then the carlings were added between them as shown on the plans.  The carling are cut to length using 3/16 x 5/32 strips.   
 
Lastly you may notice that the after most beams have a column under them at the center.   These are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length.  The corners are chamfered as shown on the plans.
 
With the first four beams added you can now add the ledges.   These are the thinner "partial beams" that extend from the carlings to the deck clamp.  They are laser cut for you with a special "leg" on the outboard ends.   This raises each ledge to the perfect height so it will be flush with the top of the gun deck beams.  So when you are cleaning the char off these...DONT sand the bottom or even the end with this "leg" on it.  Otherwise you wont have level ledges with your beams.    Hope that makes sense.
 
Now in that same photo above you can see the first few ledges (cleaned of laser char...no need to clean the bottom at all actually) resting in position.  All you have to do is cut the end that sits against the carling and glue it on position.
 
NOTE:  Now yes indeed...all of the carlings should be notched in the deck beams.   All of the ledges should be notched into the carlings.  But you know what...I am not going to do that.  And you dont have to either.  It simplifies things so much this way and those many mortices and notches are not so easy to make.  They will also mostly be completely covered up.   So you can decide.
 
 
Now this may all seem simple enough.  But finding the exact locations for these beams, carlings and ledges is super important.  Time and care must be taken to get their location correct....otherwise you will end up with hatches in the wrong  position and mast holes too!!  It could get ugly.
 
So use the plans.   If you have a second set printed.  Go ahead and cut them up.  You can see strategically placed cut outs on the template that allowed me to mark the locations of the carlings on the beams....and the ledges on the carlings.   This template also helped me position the deck beams properly which is the very first thing you need to do.  Finding you center line on those deck beams after they installed is also a huge help.  Gluing the parts in is easy enough...but the marking, measuring and planning takes time and patience.

 
Then its just a matter of cutting all of those ledges to length and gluing them in position.   There are a lot of them.  I believe 86 in total.   Note that these would also be down the center between the carlings and hatches also.  But once again they will be entirely covered up and its just a repetitive exercise that nobody will ever see.
 

To show you how the knees and other details like the ledges wont be seen...here is a look at this area with the deck planking cut and placed on the model as a test.  This shows what will be very close to the final appearance using the "classic contemporary model appearance".   But everyone can always deviate from that should they want to.
 

 
 

Received a large box containing Speedy about 5 days after placing order. The first thing I always do is inspect parts. Many parts where loose in the box so spent a couple of hours figuring out whence they went and taping them in place.

Starting chapter 7
 
The first thing I wanted to do, just to get it out of the way...was to get all the gundeck beams made.  I cleaned the char off of all 11 beams now.  Then they were cut to length using the plans as a guide.  I also used the plans to establish where each deck beam is positioned.  For now I will just set them aside and grab them as I need them.   The last thing I wanted was to have to stop what I am doing just to clean char off a beam and cut it to length.  Its a comfort knowing they are all done and ready.
 
The photo below shows all the beams just resting on the deck clamp.
 

This allowed me the opportunity to cut all the templates and see what the planking scheme would look like so I can adjust it now rather than later.   I think its a good plan as is...and I wont make any adjustments, yet.
 

 
With the beams all ready and at hand, I could start making the cabins on the lower platform at the bow.
 
Each bulkhead will be made in two layers.   Both are 1/32" thick and are laser etched with a bunch of reference lines.   Now it would be easy enough to make these from scratch but this does make the building process quicker.  Especially since very little of these will be seen.  Below are the sections for the carpenters cabin on the starboard side.   It shows both sides.  I cleaned the char from the inside edges of the door panels and then glued up each layer.
 
Before I add any details I made sure they fit on the model.  I adjusted them to fit nicely in position and adjusted the heights etc.   This is why it is good to have those deck beams handy.  You need to have the first two beams in position to get the heights correct.
 

 
Once I was sure they fit on the model OK (see the deck layout for details), I started added the hinges and stanchions.

First I added the upright timbers which are either 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length or 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  The plans show which.   Then I added the door handles and hinges.   Make sure to add the handles on both sides of the door.   And be careful to put them on the correct side based on which way the doors open.
 
The outside view of both bulkheads completed.
 

The interior of the carpenters cabin detailed.

 
Finally they were glued into position on the model.  I placed the side with the doors first.  Just use your planking of the lower platform to position it straight and against the stanchion on the fcastle bulkhead.  
Then I added the smaller section along the aft edge of the platform.  This will probably need the outside edge to be sanded because I laser cut them longer than needed.   So adjust the side that butts up against the frames.   But remember, there isnt any planking on the inboard side of the frames so it is expected to show a gap.   Just get it as even and consistent as you can.  
 
The carpenters cabin and boatswains cabin completed.
 
Note how the top of the bulkheads against the deck clamp are flush with the top of the deck clamp.    
 

Next up will be the sail room.  But that needs to be built a different way because of the louvered walls for ventilation. 
 
Chuck
 
 
 

Putting in his lunch order. 
 
But seriously….they are same figure and just used for scale.  I actually move him around as I develop the drawings.  Insane how tight the spaces were and low the ceilings were.  
 
I placed him near the tiller on the poop deck also…no railings port and starboard.  Crazy stuff…lucky if the bulwarks are knee high…
 
Just high enough to trip overboard.
 

 

 

Weekend progress. Have most of the stem assembled. I used the ultimation sander to clean up the ends. I removed the 120 grit sand disc that came with it and replaced it with 220. The 120 is a little too much for this. I glued the two halves of the lower keel together and the first section of the keel which forms the boxing joint. The inner parts are just dry fit for now.
 

 

Started assembling frames next. Some of the lasered identifiers are hard to read for me. Took them off the trees one at a time.  Make SURE you check identifiers and orientation prior to assembly. Check the PLANS, make sure the ARROW in the jig faces forward. I assembled five frames and dry mounted them on the keel. Some are REALLY tight and I was afraid of issues so I sanded the char off. Fit nice after that. The jig is ingenious.

You really, really really need to pay attention to the plans and make sure you are using the correct one. I was moving merrily along with the keel thinking that the steps where all in numerical order. When I got to the stern I noted I was missing some parts whilst having a lot of extra of others, asked Chuck. Man I love Super Glue debonder. Follow the plan and avoid this MISTAKE. 

Next I painted the figurehead. I plan on painting and staining my model as I always do. 

Received a large box containing Speedy about 5 days after placing order. The first thing I always do is inspect parts. Many parts where loose in the box so spent a couple of hours figuring out whence they went and taping them in place.

Tune is Summertime by Louis Armstrong
Summertime
And ship building is easy
Speedwell Frames are jumpin'
And the jig, the jig is high
 
Oh, your Speedy’s rich
And she's good lookin'
The Winnie is now done little baby
But Don't you cry
 
One of these mornings
We gonna rise up singing
We gonna spread our wings
Cause Chuck is cuttin Cedar and we can take to the sky

The fcastle deck beams were glued into position .  The knees, carlings and ledges for the hatches were added as per the usual.  The knees are laser cut and just need some sanding to get a tight fit against the frames.  The ledges and hatch framing is completed with 1/8 x 1/8 strips.  Cut them to length and follow the framing plan.   
 
To finish off the fcastle for now...the ladder was made for the companionway on the starboard side.   You can just make that out in the photo.   This is as far as I will take the fcastle which matches where I left off on the poop deck.
 
So this completes chapter six believe it or not.   Chapter seven begins with the few cabins and sail room on the forward lower platform.   More to come on that soon I hope.  But I have to start laser cutting some more chapter sets and making more rope.    Having a real job stinks....what I wouldn give to hit the numbers tonight, LOL.
 
Chuck
 

 

Actually I think I am working slow and steady as I am only working on it from 0800 to 1100 every day. Getting two frames assembled a day. They are a lot of work. First locating on tree and removing, removing all the char, dry fitting, adjusting and then glueing up. And I need to stain everything Fruitwood prior to assembly.
 
Question Chuck, should I wait to install the short frames until after all the tall frames are installed or can I install as they come up in order?

Started assembling frames next. Some of the lasered identifiers are hard to read for me. Took them off the trees one at a time.  Make SURE you check identifiers and orientation prior to assembly. Check the PLANS, make sure the ARROW in the jig faces forward. I assembled five frames and dry mounted them on the keel. Some are REALLY tight and I was afraid of issues so I sanded the char off. Fit nice after that. The jig is ingenious.

You really, really really need to pay attention to the plans and make sure you are using the correct one. I was moving merrily along with the keel thinking that the steps where all in numerical order. When I got to the stern I noted I was missing some parts whilst having a lot of extra of others, asked Chuck. Man I love Super Glue debonder. Follow the plan and avoid this MISTAKE. 

Next I painted the figurehead. I plan on painting and staining my model as I always do. 

I started on the Stem assembly next. Everything fit well. Took a LOT of sanding and tapering to get Mercury in proper position.

Received a large box containing Speedy about 5 days after placing order. The first thing I always do is inspect parts. Many parts where loose in the box so spent a couple of hours figuring out whence they went and taping them in place.

Started assembling frames next. Some of the lasered identifiers are hard to read for me. Took them off the trees one at a time.  Make SURE you check identifiers and orientation prior to assembly. Check the PLANS, make sure the ARROW in the jig faces forward. I assembled five frames and dry mounted them on the keel. Some are REALLY tight and I was afraid of issues so I sanded the char off. Fit nice after that. The jig is ingenious.

You really, really really need to pay attention to the plans and make sure you are using the correct one. I was moving merrily along with the keel thinking that the steps where all in numerical order. When I got to the stern I noted I was missing some parts whilst having a lot of extra of others, asked Chuck. Man I love Super Glue debonder. Follow the plan and avoid this MISTAKE. 

Received a large box containing Speedy about 5 days after placing order. The first thing I always do is inspect parts. Many parts where loose in the box so spent a couple of hours figuring out whence they went and taping them in place.

Started assembling frames next. Some of the lasered identifiers are hard to read for me. Took them off the trees one at a time.  Make SURE you check identifiers and orientation prior to assembly. Check the PLANS, make sure the ARROW in the jig faces forward. I assembled five frames and dry mounted them on the keel. Some are REALLY tight and I was afraid of issues so I sanded the char off. Fit nice after that. The jig is ingenious.

On sheet one the bow frames and wedges are numerically the same. The stern frame start numerically where the bow frames ended (12) BUT the wedges start at 1.  I was looking at the frames not the wedges and glued on extra parts that where wrong.