king derelict
Members-
Posts
3,274 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by king derelict
-
Looking very good. The neat rigging and excellent deck details really make the model stand out. alan
- 56 replies
-
- Nordkap
- Billing Boats
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
The crumpled foil gets rid of any absolute flat surfaces on the seascape but I think the paper and dilute glue can do the same thing and is more controllable. I think it’s easy to overdo the wave heights in 1/700 too so they all foil needs to be fairly restrained. alan
-
That seems to be the conundrum. One way or the other something catches up with you. Masking the deck can be miserable and time consuming and still ends up with some areas still being tricky to paint. Thanks for Vallejo Atlantic Blue information, I’ll look into it. I think Mig Ammo also do range of ocean colours (they seem to do a range of colours for everything else) I’ll go with grey green as the base color for the sea. Thanks alan
-
I don’t seem to have a lot of time at the workbench, not sure why. Anyway the seascape is sidelined while I work on the ships details. All the side decks have been added, along with the raft barrels. The WE PE sheet provides tiny supports for the barrels and after painstakingly bending them into shape, losing them, finding them and adding the kit barrels I decided I didn’t like them. They set the barrels far too high on the side decks compared to the photos of the real ship so they all had to be ripped off. Ive put a thin black oil wash to highlight the details and to tone down the white markings on the flight deck. The remaining tasks are the anchor chains, the deck railings and placing the foremast. Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments. alan
-
Well it is Christmas so I ordered one. Thanks very much for the information Mike. I’m sure it’s going to be very useful for dealing with fiddly substructures. Of course with flat shipping rates you can’t just buy one item.😁 alan
- 34 replies
-
- Five Star
- Akitsu Maru
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Congratulations Mike. The rear mast assembly is a gem. The vice you are using looks very handy, what make is it. Alan
- 34 replies
-
- Five Star
- Akitsu Maru
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I realized that I could use the hull from Monmouth 2.0 as a fit check on the seascape which would let me continue with the build of the model itself. So, the three main superstructures were added along with the gun and Harpoon missile launchers. I made a mistake in build planning, completing the structures separately meant that they were very fragile and hard to grip firmly when placing them on the deck. A total of five small pieces detached in the process but were all found and reinstalled. The major remaining task is to add the side decks and the barrel life rafts. Oh and the dreaded foremast. i put a coat of gesso on the seascape and I think it’s going in the right direction. The next decision is to decide on the base colors for the water. North Atlantic under heavy cloud suggests to me that it should be shades of grey green, lighter where air is mixed with the water. Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments. alan
-
Thanks Mike, I’ve tried the crinkled foil approach and it works well. I like the papier-mâché way because you can push the wet paper around to create small ripples and waves with some control over the process. I think toilet paper, paper towels, newspaper all work but you have to be careful to eliminate any patterns on the paper towels. You are right about the addition of another layer of paper towels, I’m going to add some gesso and see what it looks like. alan
-
Thanks Mike, that’s sort of my intention but the lighting doesn’t show it up as well as it looks in real life. I think some adjustments will be needed once I get some gesso on and can really see what I’ve got. alan
-
Today I used torn paper towels soaked with diluted white glue to soften the scuptamold surface and then pushed around the wet paper to form smaller surface details. Some edges have been left to help the modeling of the wakes around the hull. This is now drying. I may add another layer tomorrow. Thanks for looking in, the likes and the comments Alan
-
I don’t think I can progress Monmouth any further until I have the seascape ready to take the ship. So, onto the seascape! I’m using my usual one inch thick extruded polystyrene sheet, bought in a twenty four inch square and now cut to five by twelve inches. I find this material much easier to cut and shape compared with expanded polystyrene. I used a scalpel to cut out the outline of the hull. Then I used a hot wire cutter to carve the rough wave shapes I want. According to my ancient copy of Allard Coles “ Heavy Weather Sailing” a seventy mph wind on open seas can be expected to generate waves of around 65 feet. So at 1/700 anything around an inch would be acceptable. The dressmakers pins are holding pieces together while the glue dries. Then Sculptamold was added to break up the flat and smooth surfaces and to further define the waves. Once this has dried I will add torn up paper towels soaked in diluted white glue to refine the surface and build small waves. As always this is very experimental and may evolve in unplanned ways. Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments. alan
-
Thank you very much OC, the PE is giving me fits this time but most of the tiny stuff is done. Lots of railings and lifeboats still to do though. l’ll take a bit of a break with the seascape for a bit. alan
-
Wow, the aircraft look amazing, congratulations on what must have been seriously fiddly work. alan
- 34 replies
-
- Five Star
- Akitsu Maru
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Mike, thanks for the information, very helpful. As you can see I’ve been using old pill containers for holding hulls and assemblies. The child proof top means you can rotate the model without any risk of unscrewing the lid which I find useful when painting the miniatures. I usually fill them about three quarters full of water which helps with stability. I’ll look at the Dspiae vices, that may be a better solution. The idea of tracing the hull outline to use as a template for the seascape is a good idea, I’ll give it a go. I need to start some serious planning for the seascape. Thanks again alan
-
In spite of the lack of updates some work has been done along with some backwards steps. I’ve mostly in tiny PE world but thankfully I think it’s mostly done now. Heres the two frets showing the gaps. Trumpeter on the left. I still need to add the side decks but they will need to wait until the structures are added to the deck. And it suddenly occurred to me that I’m making a diorama around this model and that’s going to involve a lot of trial fitting of the ship into the seascape so I probably shouldn’t wait until Ive got a very fragile model to do that. So I think it’s time to address the seascape which will be light relief from tiny bits. i just finished making up the Harpoon launchers. The plastic kit parts are horrible so I used the WE PE frames and pieces of .020 diameter plastic rod. This was going quite well until I lost one of the PE frames. It’s taken me two days (really) to find it. It had jumped into the spares box somehow but meanwhile the workbench area is now the cleanest part of the house! plastic kit parts are shown to the right of the WE launchers. bridge structure is complete apart from adding the foremast which will wait until the bridge is secured to the deck. midship structure is also complete The hanger needs a few very small PE bits adding but the mainmast is thankfully complete. yardarms on both masts are a disaster waiting to happen. Every move I make seems to end up with me knocking one of them off. Luckily they are still the proper shape. it’s felt like I was making no progress but I think it’s going to move a bit faster now. Thanks for looking in, for the likes and for all the supportive comments. Alan
-
Great printing again Mike. I think I need to see if I can attempt a scratch Sea Send system, I think I can see it just forward of the foremast in my WESTLANT18 photos. I’m starting to think I need to look down the resin printer rabbit hole. alan
-
I can see the likeness. That was a great series. I still have the books somewhere on the shelves alan
-
The details on the decks are really nice, it’s all looking very good. Well done. alan
- 56 replies
-
- Nordkap
- Billing Boats
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.