flyenrw

Ahh; another Lady to follow....Very nice detail work Vossiewolf and the variations you have chosen really turn your Lady into a one of a kind! Best Regards, Roger

I realized that after dinner I hadn't included the pictures of the deck ladder jig and basic assembly. This was a hogg-pogg of different ideas I had come across, while researching how others had made ladders. So in a nut shell, after establishing the ladder rung spacing of 2mm , I made the rungs and stiles from 1 x 3mm strip. To make the jig, I glued small blocks of 2 x3mm to a footing at an angle of the ladder resting against the Bulwark for the rungs to be horizontal. After they were glued in place, I then sanded the height of the wood blocks to insert of the steps snugly against a strip of wood glued across the top of the blocks, capturing each rung snugly at the proper angle. I blocked up the bottom so that when the rungs were inserted, they would vertically rest even across one edge, so that the other side would be ready to glue it's stile in place. When one side stile had dried properly, I removed the half ladder, to finish and glue the other stile to complete the ladder framing. Finish was sealed with thin CA, sanded smooth with 400 grit, ready for painting.

I've now started on the deck furniture as we ship lovers call it and need to formulate a game plan for putting all these bits and pieces in their place after having the paint finished in some areas first! I'm not one of those that has a dozen pictures on the wall and clutter piled up in the corner, but I do enjoy detail, so after having a look around at similar Cutters, I found a few features I have decided to add to my build. Some shown below and a few yet to be made! Having started with the anchor winch, I decided to add some external boarding steps and on deck steps to the bulwark. I've looked at some ready made stanchions, but I will give a hand drill assist turning of a brass rod a try first!, in order to make the boarding hand holds used a top the cap rail. There is paint to be applied, pieces to be glued in place and lots of detail taping yet to be done In the mean time, I wanted to share what I felt was an easy detail to add to the out board and inboard side of the ship, which are the steps. Outboard steps were made from scrap wood, 1 x 2mm for the tread and a 1x1 mm under the tread for extra detail, then adding a couple of angle cuts, face on and top down. The 1x1mm under the tread suffices to add a little more depth and detail. The inside ladder is a little more fiddly, using 1 x 3mm, but once the jig pictured is made it aligns the treads for the side rails, which then can be attached. A close look to the chain plates, is a modification of an Amati chain plate cut to size and drilled , ready to be Blackened and mounted. I modified the wood surround to accommodate these beefier pieces!

Things that make you go Hum! I couldn't find how the ( Pawl ) would actually work , using the kit supplied anchor winch. Any feedback or guidance would be welcome! I understand the holes being used as an insert for a pole to leverage rotation, but what and how is the Pawl part of this particular winch with holes? As I researched how winches were built, I see a ratchet gear with a PAWL, as the design I kind of followed. So I abandoned the idea of using the kit supplied winch and happened to find this Amati brand Winch used and modified for using the PAWL and ratchet. I wanted to show how the PAWL actually engaged into a ratchet. Making this piece was a all out Toboggan ride! I got into it and before I knew it, dinner was ready! I didn't stop until the ideas I had, came together as you see it pictured. So I didn't take a second to offer step by step pictures, but a brief description will describe how simple it really was to make. I took a 1/16 square stock basswood strip and fashioned it into a triangle, sanding it in half. The teeth of the ratchet are made from that triangle and were cut 2mm wide and fitted between the center rings. All you need here is a ton of patience and a very steady hand. I have the patience, but not a steady hand! The wood strips that the anchor line will rap around, are made from walnut 1 x 1mm Strips. The Amati little kit gives you short strip of wood. I wanted the full width of the opening where they are glued to the winch spindle, so I discarded the wood and replaced it with a custom size. The finishes are: the same deck wash for the spindle as my decking , a dull black paint for the gear with a small wash of rust to soften the black further. When the frame to hold the spindle is ready for install, it will be painted red , as the inside Bulwark.

Hi Dan, The hinge detail is a nice touch. Certainly looks more like a gudgeon and pintal.

Yup, that's pretty small!, But I feel, its really worth the effort to add the additional detail. At first glance, its really apparent, the quality in the line, which if to do that right, is just what you need. A breach line only is rather spartan. Looking forward to how you progress.

Hi Johnathon, I think you're right on target with the wire, if to make them from scratch. I have read of a few challenges with the kit supplied strops and chain plates breaking at the bend and because of that, decided to order the beefier, Amati version shown in the plans , but not supplied in the kit! The laser cut are a bit frail. Your cannons look nice. I have considered them as well. I'm a sucker for punishment, with lots of little details that they have! OMG another intense building session! It makes such a difference over the cast product when finished. You can find 2 mm blocks on Syren Models Web site, that won't be too out of scale. Just Depends on How deep in the rabbit hole do you want to go? Your Lady is coming along and looking good!

Well, I thought I would take a break from the build , per se! The inner shipwright kept knocking, until I answered with, well, OK...I'll do it! While prepping bulwark and cap rail wood pieces for painting and a sundry part exploration, I gave a shot at artistic license and decided to bling my companionway. With painting, hinges and door pulls yet to finish, I envisioned a little more external detail for this thing and donned my Squirrel suit and went flying. It was all of 3-4 hours, a couple mistakes, words that can't be mentioned, a complete re-do's of the front and doors and the finished product materialized! I have a few more chosen victims such as this, that I have planned to be changing, but this is what makes a hobby for me. In brief, the four sided shell was built and then, simply laminated with the wooden strips. For the vertical boards, I beveled the four edges, with 400 grit paper, to provide for a little detail and visual space. Because of the increased widths of the sides , I cut a new top, to include an overlap. I used wood, from left over kit wood, to cover and complete the companionway.

Hello Ralph, When Dan asked about the frieze details and how it was achieved, " Your reply ", I couldn't help but think, " how clever " in your approach. I really like the simplicity and effectiveness...! I'm glad to know the damage was not too bad and easily repaired.

Thar she blows! An Easy mod to the Bowsprit support! By lowering the horizontal support, measuring from the bottom, 9mm up to the bottom first cut of new notches , ( included in that dimension, is the tab that fits into the deck ), I filled the original notches with the same wood from the laser cut sheet and cut the two new notches. Leaving the original Square hole to provide a top of the Bowsprit support. I had noticed in my searches for bowsprit supports, that a top support as such shown, wasn't uncommon, so it made no sense to remove it, also by leaving it, it adds an additional detail. Yet to be done will be to cut the taper into the dowel and drill a cross hole to pin the Bowsprit to the support frame. Shown temporarily assembled for illustration and now ready for glue. I'll drill the cross holes for a Bowsprit pin, thru the frame sides and Bowsprit, using a tooth pick dowel to secure it in place. By this simple mod, the original pieces could be retained, and achieve the proper angle for the bowsprit to follow.

So, the first picture shows how high the bowsprit support post is to the Bulwark: but in addition to this is the square hole for a Square dowel to be inserted. If to use these stock part dimensions, the last picture is the result with the height pointing the bowsprit down. Now , I did file the recessed groove next to the bow stem, for the bowsprit, intentionally deeper than the MFG laser cut slot which exacerbates this bowsprit angle downward! I felt the bowsprit looked like it sat on top of the rail, like a TOP HAT!, so I made it deeper and had even considered deep enough to cover it with a re-mastered Breast Hook, that has to be made as the tapering to the breast hook received in the kit is much sharper than the Bluff Bow formed. My fault possible?, but I followed the bending to the T. So I believe it to be another error. I haven't done my mod yet, but I will share what I plan to do as I work it all out. Since this will be a painted piece on deck, it won't matter that Frankenstein lives underneath the paint. It will be like Bondo fixing a dented car! I am going to cut the posts, to align the holes with the proper angle to the bowsprit resting on the horizontal bracket that lies underneath. The pre-cut notches in the up-right posts, will be filled with wood and sanded smooth to surface heights and the new notches will be cut further down. Since the Square hole does not match any wood in the kit, I'll work my magic to fabricate a piece to fit. In my opinion, this area of assembly is a necessary total redo. Will post these changes as soon as they have been made.

Good day, y'all....just wanting to bring attention to a problem with the bowsprit brackets and breast hook of the Lady. The in board end of the bowsprit mounts to posts with a sq. wood pin thru the bowsprit into the support brackets. These brackets are too long and out of scale and the hole too high. This forces the bowsprit to point downwards rather than with a subtle few degree incline. Adjustments are needed before this part of the build is completed....more to follow!

Hi Dan, I just tried to share a posting with pictures of the bowsprit error and I have received an error from the web site and now unable to post anything! So I have to sort thru that! Caution, With the bowsprit deck bracket used, the bow sprit will point downwards...there needs to be a lot of adjustments. I would suggest I'd it is not too late , to hold off glueing the breast hook in place, as it may need to be cut to accept the bottom edge of the bowsprit.... I have half a foot out the door, but wanted to share this problem with you. Roger

Hi Dan, richening the deck color with coffee looks good. The color variations really draw the attention to the meticulous work....I'm sure by now, you have spotted a discrepancy of height difference, to support the butt end of the bow sprit to the rail. I'm modifying the provided parts to adjust it's height so that it projects the bow sprit at the proper angle to the water line. Relatively simple fix if to catch ahead of time.

Andrew; Really challenging work well done! After my first pill, I can really appreciate how well you've done the planking. Those curves are like hair pin curves, my God, what an effort to turn out so well! Best Regards, Roger