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    Camas Washington
  • Interests
    Scale modeling. Particularly RC scale aircraft and 18th century ships of sail

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  1. Rob, just thinking out loud, but this exquisite model sitting in front of a window with all the UV light, will it damage it in the long term?
  2. Masterful work as always Johann. Perhaps this has been answered before but I can’t find it in the volumes of pages, but what do you use for glue and once finished with an area, what to you use to treat the wood for a final finish (Tung oil, polycrylic etc). Thanks
  3. Very interesting picture, especially how the deadeyes are turned in (secured). I’ve never seen that before.
  4. Well, I’m sure Jack’s will look better, however, considering the originals were carved by hand (not machine) 250 years ago with crude instruments.....I’m still very impressed. Very beautiful.
  5. Rob, you have to keep the home fires burning. Sounds like you are taking good care of here. We will be waiting patiently for your GR updates. Have a great Xmas recharge.
  6. Chuck, time and again you have tried to replicate the original model. Why not do that here? I like the slate colored roof of the original and is probably period correct.
  7. Frank, They rigged tackles from the yard arms and stays that facilitated getting the boats or cargo over the side.
  8. Johann, Seeing your fine execution of details, I have no doubt you could replicate the mousing. I was noticing the same thing, but Bob was quicker to comment. Below is my amateurish and feeble attempt at the same scale on a long boat. I’m sure yours would be much better. cheers
  9. Joe, one of the things I’ve found that helps me with “cutting” moldings is if you are scraping a 1/16” molding to cut a 1/16” slot into the scraper first. That will channel the strip consistently, then cut the profile into the bottom of the slot. The depth of the slot you cut obviously controls the depth of the profile. I hope that helps. I typically use an Exacto blade for the scraper. I can then fit it into a handle to use. For cutting I use a thin abrasive cutting wheel in the Dremel then finish with fine Swiss files if needed. There are many ways of accomplishing the task, this is the one that works for me. Here’s a pic of one I used many years ago.
  10. Mike, one of the questions I always had was, “Do the mouldings sit on top of the planking or do they sit on the frames like the planking?” I’ve seen various contemporary cross sections and they either don’t specify or show them sitting on the frames. thanks
  11. LOL, I was thinking the same thing......was that in a particular order? as afar as the mounting suggestion, I’ll throw my hat into the same ring on captive bolts with threaded rod for mounting. Looking nice Alan. cheers
  12. Chuck, have you tried Tung oil on the AYC? I used it and love the warm yellow color.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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