SardonicMeow
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Enjoy. I hope the pictures answer more questions than they create. (One peculiarity I noticed is that the gaff throat halliard is completely absent on the model.) -
So, I happened to be visiting family in the Toronto area over the holidays and went to see the Surly model at the Art Gallery of Ontario. My pictures have been posted. I hope they are useful to vossiewulf and others.
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The Cheerful model at the US Naval Academy museum has three yards. I have lots of pictures, if you're interested.
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Here are the jibboom guys hanging free with deadeyes at the end. The deadeyes were linked with deadeyes previously attached to eyebolts at the bow. Here's a neat view of everything from above. The main stay and main topmast stay were added each with a pair of hearts. Next time: adding lots of blocks, probably.
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Wire is wrapped around a pin, around a tiny 2mm block, and then around another pin to give me two loops at either end of the block. Glue was applied and excess wire was cut off. The outer jibstay was threaded through the jibboom with the block at one end and a seized loop at the other end. Before the jibboom was put into place, the block at the end of the jibstay and the block already placed at the end of the bowsprit were threaded. Finally, the jibboom was glued into place and the line between the blocks was tightened. The fore topmast was glued on and the fore topmast stay was run from the top of the topmast and through the loop at the end of the jibboom. There are a few more details to do around the bowsprit and jibboom but the majority is complete. Unfortunately, the tightening of subsequent stays has caused the forestay to become slack. I'm hoping that the mainstay will pull the foremast back a little bit and correct that.
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Thanks, Matt. I'm definitely going to push through to the end. Glad you're following along again. So, I said that the shrouds were done, but I forgot about the cleats. As before, I laid the model on its side, and was able to glue the cleats simply by applying glue and laying the cleats on the shrouds. Afterwards, I used some thread to reinforce each cleat. One heart for the forestay was already attached to the bowsprit several build log updates and four years ago. The forestay was seized to the foremast and the hearts were threaded. It took multiple attempts until I was able to get the pair of hearts oriented the way I wanted. The heart for the inner jibstay was also attached to the bowsprit. For now, it's just dangling loose on the bowsprit.
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There are poles or rungs (not sure what the right term is) where every fifth ratline should be. These were added by laying the ship on its side and gluing black plastic strips in place. With that, the ratlines are truly complete.
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The ratlines are complete. Quite a time-consuming operation. It took me... wow. What year is this? As shown below, I printed out a spacing guide and used chalk to mark the location of each knot on the shrouds. Here's a shot with all the ratlines done. Note the gaps in the ratlines. Those will be addressed in the next update.
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Thanks for clarifying, Eamonn. I think the right name for the sail you're describing is the fore staysail. Looking at your (really lovely) pictures of the Ballahoo in profile, there is a very short distance between the fore mast and fore stay, so I assumed there would be no fore staysail. But it's certainly possible. As always, I look forward to seeing your progress.
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SardonicMeow reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
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I've been spending a little while looking at your diagram. The only major issue I see is the foresail sheet. Perhaps you intended to assign that to the aft pinrails, but put it on the fore pinrails by mistake? Also, I don't see what a foresail halyard would do, as the foresail can be raised and lowered with the gaff peak / throat halyards.
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Hi, Max. If you have discovered any new techniques in Fusion 360, please share. As for including pictures, start a reply, then click on the "choose files" link at the bottom where it says "Drag files here to attach, or choose files..." Move your cursor into the position in your text where you want the image to appear, then click the plus sign on the image. For more help, look in the "How to use the MSW forum" forum.
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Very interesting to see a different take with the painted hull, coppered bottom, and modified anchors. Thanks for sharing.
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SardonicMeow reacted to a post in a topic:
Skipjack by Shore thing - FINISHED - Wye River Models - Scale 1/2" - First wooden ship build
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Here's a picture I took of the figurehead on the E. C. Collier. I love how yours captures the same feel and style of this and other skipjack figureheads I've seen.
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Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maury S - FINISHED - Scale 1:48
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SardonicMeow reacted to a post in a topic:
Virginia 1819 by aymodeler - Artesania Latina
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Nope. The mistake is not yours, it's Artesania Latina's. You're finding flaws in the kit that every other builder also encounters. I like your fix for the rudder. I think it'll look better than the correction I made to mine. To my eye, your stem still looks a little low. You'll need the bowsprit at an angle such that a line from the end of the bowsprit running aft towards the bow will be able to go over the bow railing.
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SardonicMeow reacted to a post in a topic:
Hull modeling with Blender
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Hull modeling with Blender
SardonicMeow replied to SardonicMeow's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Yes, the horizontal lines are the waterlines. In the plans you posted, they are labelled F, G, H, and I in two of the three views. They are not labelled in the side view, but you can figure out which match the corresponding lines in the other drawings. To make the vertices match up to the lines, you'll need to subdivide the plane object to get the right number of lines, then slide the lines up, down, left, or right to match up with the lines in the plans.
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