Williamo

IKEA has a good range of manual and electric powered variable height desks. Consider buying just the base and fix your own top to it. This is what I did. You could of course make one from scratch, (see above) but Mr IKEA has done most of the work already, so you can maximise modeling time.

Greetings Members 
l recently bought a model kit- Billing Boats Marie Jean # 468. It appears to be several years old , ( possibly 15), and is almost complete. At the time of production, the kit was offered for sale in two separate boxes, # 468 - the kit, and #469 the fittings. 
So I am now searching for #469, and wondered if anyone has one they are prepared to sell me

or suggest a source.
I could complete # 468 with fittings sourced from elsewhere, but I have no inventory, and would prefer to use the originals.
Any help you can provide will be much appreciated. 

Sent from my iPad 

On 7/20/2018 at 4:33 PM, Williamo said:

I suggest you read his page.

The problem didn't go away 18 months ago. You might also consider reading accounts from people who have suffered from,(and are suffering from), respiratory problems associated with fine wood dust. Really!

On 7/18/2018 at 1:49 PM, MartinB said:

Not so serious that we need to worry about a post from 18 months ago., Really! 

I suggest you read his page.

I highly recommend you all read Bill Pentz's page. The danger ( he asserts,) is from invisible airborne dust that is both very difficult to capture and potentially very dangerous. It's produced anytime we cut or sand wood. Because we can't see it, we tend to disregard it.

His advice and mine is to buy a good face ask and use it.

I am in the process of designing the layout of my new small workshop including dust collection. This is where I am at the moment.

The Bill Pentz site is very comprehensive, and while not particularly well written, should be required reading for all of us who work with wood. Airborne dust  (which is invisible,) especially from exotic woods , is potentially very harmful and there is no effective way to capture it. Wear a good quality mask.

However, in terms of hardware, he is really focussed on larger enterprises than mine. This is what I have discovered so far:-

The most useful things to remember are that your duct material, size, internal surfaces and configuration determine how fast you can move air through the duct, regardless of how much suction you apply. All restrictions and bends reduce air speed. Keep it simple, and err on the conservative side. Find out what air speed you require for each tool to shift chips and dust, from the spec. or the manufacturer. Take the highest value.The online values should be used as a comparison but not trusted. The airspeed to shift dust is always higher than for chips. I'm assuming all tools are isolated by blast gates. So, design your layout, chose your duct size, then see if it can support sufficient airspeed. If not, size up. Then decide if you need a cyclone to drop out chips ( more airspeed reduction).

You may find for a simple system, an industrial vacuum cleaner will do the job.

 Comprehensive system design seems to be a bit of a black art, or perhaps I don't understand it well enough yet.

Check the specs. carefully, before you buy a vac or a dust extractor, or better still, borrow a vac and try it out.

Good luck.

A completely different alternative, which you could use with the multiple roller device shown above, is to have the drawings adjusted and scanned into a laptop. You then have the capacity to zoom, scale, measure,compare and print, and even move to 3D print or CNC cutting.

10 hours ago, lehmann said:

Several years ago I built a sound reducing box for a compressor to be used at trade shows.  I used the best rated sound absorbing rigid foam and batting I could find, but the main way sound escapes is through vents needed to feed air to the compressor (with a vacuum, the air has to get out) and other cracks.   I ended up building a box with a double bottom so that the sound had to go through a bit of a zig-zag maze, somewhat like a Dorade vent.  The double bottom also reduced the transmission of mechanical vibration.   The maze was filled with batting, and the air inlet, made up of many small holes, faced the floor.  Other than those holes, the box was sealed.  Fortunately, for this application, the compressor didn't run often, so I didn't have to worry about heat from the compressor.  Since a vacuum doesn't generate much heat, this shouldn't be a problem.

 

Avoid large, flat panels, unless they are very rigid.  If it vibrates, it is basically a large surface to excite the air, just like the sound board of a guitar.

Use foam, especially egg-crate foam, or batting on the inside surfaces to absorb (damp) sound and avoid reflections off of hard surfaces.  To some extent, a soft covering on the outside panels also helps to deaden sound.   That's one of the reasons the inside of cars are carpeted or are covered with a hard foam (the other reason being to reduce injury in a crash).

 

As a last though, I wonder if putting a long hose on the air exit of the vacuum would help to contain the noise.

 

 

 

Thanks for your thoughts and practical suggestions. As I said in the post above, I'm giving up for the moment, and will address the problem later. I got a bit sidetracked with noise levels while designing a dust extraction system for my new work area- noise and dust being the two most important health considerations I want to sort out.

I'm about to give up on general noise attenuation in the workshop as its going to be much simpler and cheaper to invest in some high-end ear protectors.

With some of my machines its almost impossible to economically reduce their noise output.

BTW if you are interested in the sound levels in your work area, take your own measurements. Values given by manufacturers are generally not the product of standardised testing, and are not tested while being used.

I am currently trying to source 65 mm dia. aluminium blast-gates and actuators. 100 mm seems to be the smallest I can find. I have used plastic ones before, but with mixed success. Any help would be much appreciated. Ball valves are also a possibility.

On 6/13/2018 at 8:07 AM, mtaylor said:

Absorptive material inside the box will be the key to sound deadening.   One thing you might do is go here:  https://sawmillcreek.org/forum.php.   I use the laser forums a lot for info.   The users are very helpful.  You may have become a "user" and register.  But a search on "dust extractor"  should give you lots of hits.  

Thanks for the Sawmill Creek connection. Very helpful.

As I said , reading noise reduction fora tells me the whole noise issue seems poorly understood, esp the relationship between mass and absorption. Research continues.

On 6/13/2018 at 5:58 PM, Chazz said:

Maybe it would just be better to bite the bullet and get a quieter vacuum!

By the time you finish the suggested installation you'll probably spend about as much as a new machine would cost...never mind the work. And would the installation even work as well?

 

Then you might sell the one you have now

 

Chazz

I did think of that and may do it but in any case the vac noise needs to be reduced.My current household vac is 80 dB. Too loud to run for long periods, especially while other kit is running.

Thanks Mark. As I said earlier, it's not clear to me if it is mass, in the form of a sturdy container, ( brick, plasterboard etc.), or absorption in the form of special foam , ( or some combination of both,) that will be most effective to reduce both airborne sound and direct vibration.  Putting this kit in a foam- lined box of some sort will obviously lower noise levels, but as this will run for long periods, I'm keen to make it as efficient as possible. Seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there. Research continues.

As part of researching noise levels in my workshop, I came across noise- measuring apps online.Some of these are free. While they are not really the equivalent of professional noise- level meters, they are perfectly adequate for my purposes. My iPad now becomes my meter.

7 hours ago, jud said:

Put it outside mounted on a post or stand secured to the ground, not your shop, place it where you will have minimum bends on the suctions side, build a shelter around it with easy access for upkeep and cleaning. No point in taking up space inside, wiring with an inside switch should be easy and the hole for the suction pipe should not be a problem either, just use foam or rubber to seal, don't want hard contact with the structure. Enjoy your quiet and cleaner work space.

Thanks jud, unfortunately I can't put it outside. I'm in a French town with 600 thick stone walls  and fierce planning regs. As I said, I'm still not clear if it's mass or absorption or both that I need need to be really effective. If I put it in a brick box for example, as generators sometimes are, I'm sure that's more effective than a ply one, but recording studios use special profile foam, not just polystyrene.The answer is probably both. On, on

I am in the process of setting up a dust extraction system for my workshop. The vital bit is a cyclone, which discharges sawdust into a bin, hooked up to a vacuum cleaner which collects the dust. It's a pretty conventional setup. There are los of videos on u tube.

However, I bought a vacuum cleaner online. It's rated noise level was stated to be 48 dB. This seemed excellent, as most vacs are in the 70 to 80 range, and on a logarithmic scale, that's quite a difference.

However, as I should have known, if something seems to good to be true, it probably is.

When I fired it up, I didn't need sophisticated measuring devices to tell me it was way over 48.

So I am stuck with it and will try to incorporate it as originally intended and have started to look at sound attenuation.

The plan is to place the cyclone, vac and sawdust bin in a cabinet underneath a bench.

I am dealing with airborne noise as well as direct vibration.

Having done some research, it's not clear to me if it's mass, in the form of a sturdy cabinet, or special sound- deadening foam- as used in recording studios, that I need, or both.

If any members have experience of this, I would appreciate your advice.

Great to have as a desk or work table. IKEA have an excellent electric powered one. Highly recommended

Thanks Charters,

for some reason I missed it

 best regards

I am currently searching for these kits. Heller no longer makes the Sinagot or 𝑻𝒉𝒆 Cotre Kurun. I can find them in the US, but the postage is more than the cost of the kits. Seems a bit excessive for a cardboard box and plastic bits. I am in France. Any info would be much appreciated.

I also can't comment on Onshape. However, I have been learning Fusion 360 for the last few months, after using Microstation since it started.The tutorials by Lars and others are excellent, as is the program.

On 10/29/2017 at 4:55 PM, Ben752 said:

I agree on tracing if you're working off of scans.  It's pretty easy to do this in Fusion 360 using "Attach Canvas" then tracing using a spline then use mirror to ensure symmetry.  Then extrude and you have an STL.

 

One thing I found when using attach canvas is it can be tricky to calibrate it accurately.  Through some trial and error I discovered one pixel in an image is represented as 1/2048 of an inch.  This might be useful if you want adjust the scaling factor manually.

Hi Ben,

i am currently learning F 360, crossing over from Bentley microstation. My immediate issues are importing 2D and 3D drawings to F360 from BMS, and creating a hull surface. The results are variable, to say the least. Tutorials are helpful, but if you have any insights I would be pleased to hear them.

Best regards.

Thanks to all for your helpful responses!

I recently found a complete Heller Drakkar "Osberg" plastic model kit at a vide grenier. It's the version with the lighter yellow Heller panel on the top left of the box, so from about 1971! 5€ seems like a bargain.
As was standard, glue and rigging and paint are not part of the kit.
l have three questions:-

1.) What glue, other than that currently sold by Heller online is appropriate for this kit?
2.) The notes say use Number 16 thread for the rigging. The inevitable Google search identifies how complex thread description can be.
The only ‘16’ I can find is a weight of 16, the equivalent of Tex of 105, denier 950, cotton count of 5 and a metric number 9. Is there a more suitable alternative ?
3.) The major pieces look very shiny. Is there any prep required before painting, other than a light sanding ?
4.)  What paint is appropriate for a plastic model of this sort ?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Just found a nearly new copy of 'Les Bisquines' for €15.0 at a vide grenier. ( A jumble sale) Wonderful technical and social information on these working boats of the north of France.

im always on the lookout for books of this sort.

13 hours ago, SardonicMeow said:

I have recently been trying some 3D modelling using Blender.  I have had some decent success, but wonder how much better other tools might be.  For hull modelling, the main challenge is fitting a surface to the various curves that the plans describe.  Can Fusion 360 (or any other software, for that matter) do this, taking into account curves in multiple directions?

 

In Blender, it's possible to create a surface from multiple curves, as long as every curve has the same number of control points.  However, the connections between the curves are more or less straight.  There is no way to use another set of curves, orthogonal to the first set, to "guide" the shape of the surface between.  I don't know if that's just a limitation of Blender, or something no software can do.

 

I have similar questions, and am currently evaluating F360 from the link kindly provided by Nirvana. Handling Bézier curves,thickening surfaces, defining volumes and transition to G code for CNC work are all important for me. I also need to understand minimum hardware spec requirements, as I am up for a new system.

Watch this space.

On 12/03/2018 at 11:22 PM, Nirvana said:

Williamo,

It does a F360 does a great job. F360 is a cloud based program, takes less space on your 'puter so it does saves automatically.

Here is a great link for you.

Thanks Nirvana. Working on it and looking for a min hardware spec.