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Bill Brown

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About Bill Brown

  • Birthday 09/26/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Allentown , New Jersey
  • Interests
    Ship Modeling, Boating, Fishing, and Painting

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  1. Meddo, Yes they are just regular black line. I used watered down PVC glue to stiffen them. Thanks for the likes folks! Bill
  2. The rigging process begins. With the boom and gaff made using the 7-10-7 rule, its as good a time as any to rig them. Below are some of the running rigging installed: I use clamps as weights sometimes to provide the necessary tension on the lines while rigging. Syren's plans and practicum do an excellent job describing what block type and size as well as what line size and color is needed for any particular line. In the next photo below you can see some of the standing rigging run. The lanyards and ratlines are ne
  3. Since the Ship Model Society of NJ was mentioned by Chuck, I wanted to add a few things to his wonderful post. I am the current president of the club and I consider myself a novice builder. Since joining the club my skills have improved greatly due to the simple fact that there is no better tool in your toolbox than your local club. For all the reasons that Chuck already stated. These days the term “local” has expanded as we have been meeting virtually since April and have welcomed folks from many other states. We are strongly considering keeping the virtual meeting option alive, assu
  4. The bowsprit, boom, and mast. Following the practicum, I used the 7-10-7 rule to make all the spars, boom, and mast. With a lot of existing kits, you typically get supplied a round dowel for your spars and masts. In this case I am starting from square stock which has several advantages imho. Most spars and masts have a section that needs to remain square. I find by using the 7-10-7 method, its a lot easier to make a round spar from square stock than and making a square section starting from round stock. In addition, most spars and masts require holes or slots to be drilled th
  5. Time to make the pumps and winch. Once again I used Syren's mini kit for the pumps. For the galley stack, I used a thin piece of veneer I had, about 30 mil thick to form the side walls. After assembly the stack was painted flat black and then some rust weathering powder applied to simulate a metal structure. The Winch was pretty straight forward. The instructions do a nice job in describing how best to achieve it. The ships rudder. Here again, Syren's plans and instructions do a great job in
  6. The Armament There are 10 Carronade that have to be made for the Cheerful so you need to set up an assembly line. I purchased the mini kits from Syren for all my armament. First I had to set up my high end lathe (tongue in cheek) to help make the axles: This is just your basic Dremel with a $10 3 jaw check attachment. I use a sanding stick and needle file as the rounding tools. Second, you need a jig as this is repetitious. From here on its turning them out one by one. I then set
  7. Baydreamer, I use Model Master Acrylic Paint. The red is their “Insignia Red” which I apply slightly watered down with a good quality artist brush. These paints are readily available at your local Hobby Store or online. Thunder, I very much appreciate your comments. I say novice as this was my first attempt at a plank on bulkhead project. Previous builds were all kits comprised of solid hulls. With that said as a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey, which includes several members that have already built this very ship as well as the kit’s designer a
  8. Thanks Bossman for your kind words. As I stated in the beginning of my log, my postings have been retrospective as I am currently at the point where I have completed all the rigging and just have the anchors and flag to make and she is complete. I will continue to post my progress up to this point trying to highlight some of the things I wished I did differently. I hope this provides some assistance, especially to the novice builder like me, of this beautiful ship. Bill
  9. Thanks Glenn, I have been following your build, and noticing your skill and workmanship, you should have far less issues than I had. For some reason they just gave me headaches. Looking forward to seeing your deck.
  10. The Windlass and Seats Syren has a very nice Windlass Sub Kit that I purchased for Cheerful. There are many pieces that make up this piece of gear and it is very well engineered in my opinion. You need to bevel the pieces for a tight fix and I used a small sanding stick to accomplish this task. Having a glass work top helps with assembly of small parts like this as it provides a nice flat surface and excess glue can easily be removed with a sharp scraper. Once you have all the sub pieces assembled you can put them all t
  11. Definitely agree with Vince, I think it’s better to start from square stock. It’s easier to drill all your holes first prior to rounding. You can use the 7-10-7 rule to turn your square stock into an octagon. I typically just use a hand drill for rounding as I don’t have a lathe but a lathe is better still. Best of luck Bill
  12. Thanks BE, you are one of the modelers that I was referring to above 😊 Your Cheerful build log was an inspiration to me as well as a constant source of reference.
  13. With the planking finally complete, I now moved to the interior of the ship. The inner frames are taken down to their final thickness. This was scary. I used a Z blade Xacto #17 as well as a Dremel with drum sander attachment in certain areas. You have to watch the drum sander, as you can get in to trouble quickly. The false floor was laid in place using the template from the plans. Once the false floor was in place I started to plank the interior bulwarks. When the interior bulkhead planking was completed, I painted them red and a
  14. The hull planking complete, now it just needs a good sanding. In hindsight: This was my first time planking a bulkhead hull and although it went better than I thought it would, it did underscore the importance of properly fairing the bulkheads prior to laying any planking. In my next project, much more care will be taken in that step. The hull has been sanded and given a coat of wipe-on satin poly. I also painted the stern. This is also a good shot of the square tuck. This was challenging but Chuck's Practicum really provided a nice gui
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