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Bill Brown

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About Bill Brown

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  • Location
    Allentown , New Jersey
  • Interests
    Ship Modeling, Boating, Fishing, and Painting

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  1. The Armament There are 10 Carronade that have to be made for the Cheerful so you need to set up an assembly line. I purchased the mini kits from Syren for all my armament. First I had to set up my high end lathe (tongue in cheek) to help make the axles: This is just your basic Dremel with a $10 3 jaw check attachment. I use a sanding stick and needle file as the rounding tools. Second, you need a jig as this is repetitious. From here on its turning them out one by one. I then set
  2. Baydreamer, I use Model Master Acrylic Paint. The red is their “Insignia Red” which I apply slightly watered down with a good quality artist brush. These paints are readily available at your local Hobby Store or online. Thunder, I very much appreciate your comments. I say novice as this was my first attempt at a plank on bulkhead project. Previous builds were all kits comprised of solid hulls. With that said as a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey, which includes several members that have already built this very ship as well as the kit’s designer a
  3. Thanks Bossman for your kind words. As I stated in the beginning of my log, my postings have been retrospective as I am currently at the point where I have completed all the rigging and just have the anchors and flag to make and she is complete. I will continue to post my progress up to this point trying to highlight some of the things I wished I did differently. I hope this provides some assistance, especially to the novice builder like me, of this beautiful ship. Bill
  4. Thanks Glenn, I have been following your build, and noticing your skill and workmanship, you should have far less issues than I had. For some reason they just gave me headaches. Looking forward to seeing your deck.
  5. The Windlass and Seats Syren has a very nice Windlass Sub Kit that I purchased for Cheerful. There are many pieces that make up this piece of gear and it is very well engineered in my opinion. You need to bevel the pieces for a tight fix and I used a small sanding stick to accomplish this task. Having a glass work top helps with assembly of small parts like this as it provides a nice flat surface and excess glue can easily be removed with a sharp scraper. Once you have all the sub pieces assembled you can put them all t
  6. Definitely agree with Vince, I think it’s better to start from square stock. It’s easier to drill all your holes first prior to rounding. You can use the 7-10-7 rule to turn your square stock into an octagon. I typically just use a hand drill for rounding as I don’t have a lathe but a lathe is better still. Best of luck Bill
  7. Thanks BE, you are one of the modelers that I was referring to above 😊 Your Cheerful build log was an inspiration to me as well as a constant source of reference.
  8. With the planking finally complete, I now moved to the interior of the ship. The inner frames are taken down to their final thickness. This was scary. I used a Z blade Xacto #17 as well as a Dremel with drum sander attachment in certain areas. You have to watch the drum sander, as you can get in to trouble quickly. The false floor was laid in place using the template from the plans. Once the false floor was in place I started to plank the interior bulwarks. When the interior bulkhead planking was completed, I painted them red and a
  9. The hull planking complete, now it just needs a good sanding. In hindsight: This was my first time planking a bulkhead hull and although it went better than I thought it would, it did underscore the importance of properly fairing the bulkheads prior to laying any planking. In my next project, much more care will be taken in that step. The hull has been sanded and given a coat of wipe-on satin poly. I also painted the stern. This is also a good shot of the square tuck. This was challenging but Chuck's Practicum really provided a nice gui
  10. Planking the hull. Above the Wales the planking is pretty straight forward. In hindsight: I wish I took more care in sizing the plank lengths that ran between the gun ports. A lot of cleanup was necessary to get it into a somewhat presentable form. Its below the Wales that require a bit more planning, bending in multiple dimensions, and shaping. I followed Chuck Passaro's method of spiling which has been well documented on the NRG site. You need to line the hull and this was done by creating tick strips for each section and marking the plank locat
  11. I believe this to be the Marine Model Kit No. 1079 from he photograph. About 2 years ago I acquired a partially built model from this kit that had damage from a move. I started the restoration but decided to not fully rig the ship leaving it as it may have been when launched. The plans were originally drawn in the 30s. It was a quality kit and well worth restoring if you have the time and passion. From time to time these kits show up on eBay.
  12. The stern frames are installed as are the stern ports. The ports are all painted now as it is easier to do now than later as Chuck points out in his build notes. The first layer of wales are placed as is the molding strip that sits just below the gun ports. This will define the planking runs above the wales. The blue mat you see in some of my photos is something I got from Rockler Woodworking. It limits the movement of what is placed on top of it and does not allow glue to adhere well, so it can be easily cleaned. I not only find it very usef
  13. Thanks folks! Glenn, I have seen your Cheerful from your log and you are doing a great job! So one of the disadvantages of starting a build log of a project that actually commenced 2 years ago is that I cannot solicit nor incorporate real-time comments at these early stages. It is what it is so to speak, errors and all. What I can do is have an in hindsight section for things I wished I did differently. I will try to do this as much as possible until I catch up with where I am today on the build. Fairing the bulkheads:
  14. I actually started this build in April 2018 having had a few sidetracks along the way. Fortunately I had taken some build progress photos at various stages, as I am currently at the point of finishing the deck fittings, but that will be for a future post. This is my first attempt at a plank on frame model having only built solid hull kits from either Model Shipways or Bluejacket in the past. I consider myself a novice, at best, but I am extremely fortunate to be a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey and have had much help and guidance from the members along the way. Special
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