Haze Gray
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Everything posted by Haze Gray
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Okay so I'm back to printing on the Mono X using clear resin again with settings off that G-drive document - we'll see how it goes. Throwing caution to the wind - I'm going to try printing out a 1/350th scale version of the French ram Cerbère from around 1870 (which I currently have a 1/72 scale hull of already printed). fingers crossed.....
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I doubt it will last long - most of the build surface looks sand/glass blasted - I expect the high level of aesthetics will be over after the first print gets scraped off 😃
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I received two things today - the replacement LCD for the Photon S (already installed now and working but it's not a fun proceedure). Also received the new (replacement) build plate for the Mono X **finally came!** - low and behold it's got the laser etching that's found on the upcoming Anycubic DLP printer. It didn't come with any mounting bracket or hardware (shoot) but I'm still pleased with it -
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No thump could also mean layers are not attaching to the part - which will become visible once the retraction lifts the part above the level of the resin 😃 From experience the lager the contact area of the part the more likely you will thump with a higher report....
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Hi Ron, pretty easy actually, you can just pour some in by the corner.
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Jasseji , have you thought about setting up a camera up there? If you have a rasberry Pi and a webcam there's a couple of programs (like Octoprint that's used for driving 3d printers and even slicing for prints + cam or time lapse) that would give you some piece of mind - you can access the rasberry pi via wifi on your phone.
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Humm - it always worries me when I don't hear a mild to medium thump - but you're probably right - really loud thump = low resin, pour in resin and you deaden the sound....
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Yeah, you probably just jinxed yourself! 😃
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So, funny thing happened, after I got the Mono X printer setup I put on a screen protector before trying any prints (scheduled for the next day) and, because it was late at night, I forgot to torque down the vat screws.... next day I pour in the resin for the first print and hit go....bed comes down...a little bit of suction and up the vat goes but I grab it and pull it out and away thinking "that was an awesome save"..... then I saw shower of resin coming down off the build plate onto the LCD.....a few expletive's ran though my mind before I remembered the screen protector was on there. totally worked, totally saved my butt... Honestly I think cling/saran wrap might do just as well - more likely it will stick to the glass than to the FEP - either way if you're clumsy like me make sure you have that LCD protected.
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Hello Max, thank you for your kind words. When you start working on a model to 3D print please start a topic and show us your progress. Which ship do you intend to choose first? Привет Макс, спасибо за добрые слова. Когда вы начнете работать над моделью для 3D-печати, начните тему и покажите нам свой прогресс. Какой корабль вы собираетесь выбрать первым?- 125 replies
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Looks fantastic! I love the old star trek ships!
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The Bow of the Magenta seems quite unique (even among French ships). It has kind of a symmetrical break above and below the the waterline.... it's captivating for sure. I don't think I've seen ships with a similar bow like that but maybe there are others?
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Hi Egilman, If you have fusion 360 there might be some ways to repair the mesh in that software: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/repairing-a-mesh-that-is-quot-not-watertight-quot/td-p/6759616 or this: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/alias-products/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2019/ENU/Alias-Modeling/files/GUID-7829272F-4B5A-4418-824D-4D4BC505306B-htm.html I don't usually work with meshes but if you send me the file I can attempt to close it and make it manifold but no grantees for success. By the way, I saw you've had some priting issues - what resin are you using? There's a spreadsheet where users have reported settings that have been successful using the mono X here: Anycubic Photon Mono X - Google Drive maybe that has settings that will work for you. - Neal Oh, I almost forgot to mention - ambient air temp can be important - 70° or above is ideal, lower temps seem to preclude good bed adhesion.
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I'll definitely be following this build - the French incremental design advances starting with Gloire up through the Amiral Baudin class class are fascinating to me. At 1/72 scale the Magenta will be almost a yard long and should be quite a striking (and rare?) model!
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Hi Egilman , since I have a new buildpate on the way I've sanded down the one I have on hand - it's right around 0.115mm (the note I got from the "engineer" said anything less than 0.15mm would not impact a print - which might be true so I'll give it a go and see how things turn out. Part of me thinks it would be nice to have two build plates as I'd like to build a wash tank that I can drop the build plate onto without removing the parts - so when I am removing them there's less of a chance of dripping or unwashed parts attempting to launch into orbit during the separation process. On another note, my tiny little Photon S is down, I got a tiny leak in the FEP and and the resin cured between the LCD and the underside of the FEP... the LCD ripped out when I pulled out the vat with almost force required - so I have a new LCD on the way but I also bought what is essentially a screen protector for both machines in case that happens again - the film covers the entire LCD screen and a bit beyond it....so those should at least mitigate some risk there.
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Hey Egilman, I recently picked up the monoX and checked the flatness of the build plate (it was 0.203mm deeper in the center vs the sides) so I got the seller to send me a new one - any issue with the build plate on yours?
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Hi Alan, how many cans of primer did you end up using?
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Egilman - what version of solidworks are you using?
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My first attempt at the helm…. Not quite there but closing in on it… Egilman, that monoX is a very tempting machine - probably big enough to do a ship in 1/350th scale ! The DLP machines we’ll see in the next year or two will be a step change for sure but likely not as large as the mono X
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Hi Alan, what kind of filament are you using? Also, does the print cooling fan turn on when you're laying down the first layer or does it wait until you have .2 - .3 mm laid down? It looks like maybe the the bed might not be fully level as the corner brims on the left side are incomplete but the one on the right side is.
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I agree with Lou. I believe there wouldn't be much reason to print a ship that could be reasonably modeled in the material of the original, especially wooden ships where the detailed construction is so much part of the beauty and fascination - unless it was for some kind of board game. I'm having a lot of fun printing and assembling an RC version of the Maine, I always enjoyed plastic model kits and so I'm kind of getting to relive my childhood passion.
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It was a bit of a challenge but not any more than learning how to use a regular filament printer. Similar to a typical filament deposition 3D printer, resin printers use .STL files that are sliced through a specific program - for resin printers they are converted to a format for 'stereo lithography' printing. I got the resin printer because I knew I would need it for some parts on the USS Maine that my regular filament printer would be challenged to successfully print. With a smaller nozzle (0.3mm) you can print small parts with decent detail but the resin printer takes it to the next level. you do have to learn a bit about how to position the parts for the resin printer and then there's the whole issue of having resin and a wash station and curing box (or use the sun). I go through 2 pairs of rubber gloves every time I use the resin printer for something. One big advantage with the resin printer is is that you can print multiples of the same part in the same time it takes to print just one. So when I printed that last Hotchkiss revolving cannon I didn't do just one, I did 12 since I knew I have other ships in work that will need them.
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Hotchkiss cannon turned out well, sure are small, had to use a loupe to be able to paint!
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Usually going hotter would reduce the stress - so you're probably fine there unless you're seeing problems with the first layers spreading out like an 'elephants foot'.
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Alan, I've been there done that myself! bit surprised the epoxy gave way but the mating surface area for the hull joins on the corvette aren't super big - One question I have looking at the sections on the work table - when you join them are you somehow clamping the sections to the internal shape? 3d printed parts in a U shape will tend to have more tension on the outside and want to splay open a bit so I assume that's probably something that you have a method to deal with.
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