Dr PR

One less plastic hook on the model. The crash also broke the hook on the top block of the main gaff peak halliard luff tackle! One step back. I am repairing it using one of my metal hooks. Another step forward. Look at it this way - all those broken hooks and failed seizing just lets me have the pleasure of doing the rigging again! Thank you Murphy!

Take a look at this post: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=1092641 I rigged the blocks at the yard arm pretty much as shown in your drawing and had to go back and redo one of them to allow the lines to run free without tangling and chafing. Each block should be attached to the yard arm separately. I used seizing (small thread wrapped tightly around the ropes) that was glued to the ropes. The outer black rope is the brace pendant with a block stropped (strapped) and seized into the end. This is the lower block in your drawing. It prevents the other ropes/blocks from slipping off the yard arm. But on my vessel the stunsail boom irons hold everything on the yard arms.

Steve, There are still too many plastic hooks on this model! But take note that they are not failing during the normal rigging process. I don't put a lot of strain on the lines, just enough to make them run pretty straight. The hooks are breaking when I screw up and accidentally put too much stress on the lines. Murphy again! I repaired the sheet block. I wrapped some 0.025" (0.63 mm) rope around the block for stropping and glued it in place with white glue. Then I put a drop of Duco Cement on the strands and wound some fine black cotton thread around it to create the seizing. After that was set I looped the long end of the 0.025" rope around the fore course yard inside the sling cleats (in the photo at left). I tied a piece of black thread around the rope strands with an overhand knot. Then I put a drop of Duco Cement on the two rope strands and held them together a few seconds until the glue started to set. Then the long end of the thread was wrapped around the ropes to finish the seizing. It was a tight fit! One point in Duco Cement's favor - over CA - is that like the white glue you can loosen the knots easily, but with a bit of acetone instead of water. The sheet rope had a small block seized to the lower end as part of a runner tackle. Since I couldn't pull this through the sheet block the sheet rope was pulled back and held out of the way with blue tape while I made the repair. Then I discovered that the sheet rope was wrapped around the footropes on the yard and one of the other ropes descending from above! I had to remove the lower block from the end of the sheet rope and reroute the line through and around the rats nest of ropes around the mast top. Of course, I had glued the lower block strops with Duco Cement, and it didn't want to come undone. But a little water on the strop to loosen the white glue and I was able to pull the block free. Then I had to soak the seizing in acetone to dissolve the Duco Cement. After a while the seizing came off and the rope end was free. I didn't want to wet the block with acetone because the dye that I used to stain the block might wash out. After rerouting the sheet rope the lower block was attached again - with Duco Cement to ensure that the seizing doesn't fail. This photo shows the repaired block, with the sheet rope threaded through and around the other lines so it descends to the runner tackle belayed to an eye bolt on deck and a pin on the fife rail at the base of the mast. In the process the course yard creeped up on the mast again. It should be just at the top of the metal shield for the gaff jaws. Now I will need to readjust all of the lifts, sheets, buntlines, trusses and braces to get it back down again! Maybe Murphy's Folly would be a good name for the ship.

Thanks for the encouragement guys! The irony in this last goof-up is that I was trying to get a better picture of the outer jib. I was using a white dry erase marker board as background and the shiny surface was reflecting the ring light. So I repositioned the board, and as I stepped back to take the picture the board fell over against the model. Fortunately I was still close enough to catch things before the model took a dive to the floor! Otherwise I might be thinking about reconstructing a lot more of the masts and rigging! So Murphy didn't have the last say! And I relearned a lesson that I have learned far too many times in the past - pay attention to what you are doing! **** The model kit was titled "Albatross" but I can find no record of a real vessel with that name. And since I am building a model of an imaginary 100 ton revenue cutter of the early 1800s I have been reluctant to give the model a name. That might imply that it is a model of a real vessel. But now I am thinking of calling it Murphy's Jest or something like that! Murphy's Joke Murphy Bait Murphy's Taunt Murphy's Fun ????

I have been thinking abut a problem that developed as I was adding the fore topsail to the mast. You can see it in these pictures. The lift blocks and sheet blocks were jammed together, and the lift lines were rubbing against the sail clews and the clew blocks. It looked OK "on paper" but just wasn't right after the sail was installed. The sheet block was in the correct place, with the sail clew and clew line block OK. I decided to remove the lift blocks and give them a longer pendant. But I had to do this in place, and things were a bit crowded. Some vessels used a sister block or "violin block" with the lift running through the inner sheave and the sheet in the outer sheave. And in some cases the two blocks were just stropped together end to end to keep the two lines separate. Now the lift blocks fit under the clew of the sail and the sheet is free to run naturally. It wasn't as much trouble as I thought it would be. But Murphy did get in his licks. While removing the old lift blocks the plastic hook on one of the double blocks at the mast top broke! I replaced the plastic hook with one of my metal hooks and the repair was finished. One step back, one step forward. All of this happened while I was installing the outer jib. That was the last sail! Like the other fore sails the sheets are still hanging loose. But the rest of the rigging is in place! Two steps forward. The nomenclature for this sail is a bit confused. Some authors call it the outer jib, but others call it the flying jib. However, the term "flying" sometimes means a sail is not attached to a stay, but is hanging only by the halliard and tack. But there are many references showing a sail that is riding on a stay but is called a flying jib anyway. Likewise the main sail is sometimes said to be flying if there is no boom, and in other books is is flying it it is attached to the boom only at the tack and clew, without being laced to the boom. This is also called "loose footed." So the term "flying" seems to mean different things to different authors. With the installation of the outer jib almost all of the rigging is installed. Most of the lines are belayed and only a few need to be adjusted. The belayed ends are still a couple inches long to allow them to be adjusted, so the deck looks like a bowl of spaghetti. But most of the work was done! And then the backdrop I was using for this last photo fell over and hit the model! The blow caused the seizing to fail on the starboard sheet block attached near the center of the fore course yard! It was in one of the most inaccessible places in the rats nest of rigging just under the fore top. One giant leap backwards! Murphy was busy today!! If there are any newbies following this log keep this in mind. If it can go wrong it will go wrong!

Actually, the trick is to cut the garboard strake so the next plank runs pretty straight to the stem (bow). The lower edge of the garboard strake follows the rabbet at the keel. curving up at the bow. The upper edge of the garboard strake should follow the unmodified edge of the next plank as it curves around the bow. Each additional plank follows the same rule. The lower edge follows the curve of the plank below it, and the upper edge is trimmed to follow the curve of the plank above it. So one edge of each plank is the natural curve around the shape of the hull, and the upper edge is trimmed to fit the plank above it. While this sounds simple, it may be necessary to "hook" planks above and below a plank, cutting it short and hooking the planks above and/or below to fill in the space. Look at the tutorials.

I found time today to install another sail - the jib. The jib halliard is rigged like the fore staysail halliard - through a block that is tied to the forward crosstree on the fore mast top. The tack is fastened to the jib preventer stay just above the bees on the bowsprit. The downhaul runner block is also belayed to the preventer. The downhaul runs through this block and belays on the starboard bow pin rail. The sheets have not been rigged so the sail can be pulled forward to provide clearance to the bow pin rails. Only one sail to go!

One more! The fore staysail is pretty simple. Lever (The Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor, page 59) said that fore staysails were not used on merchant vessels, but were only used on warships. This likely applies only to square rigged vessels, for multiple foresheets are common on fore-and-aft rigged vessels. But you can see from this photo why the fore staysail and the main course would not be flown at the same time. The clue of the staysail extends back behind the fore mast, passing through the space where the fore course sail would hang. Schooner sails were mainly fore-and-aft with the occasional square topsail, topgallant and maybe a fore course. So the fore staysail was probably used in most cases, with the course rigged only when there was a good wind from astern. I had to find a place for the halliard block pendant to attach to the mast top. Rather than tie it to the stay as is sometimes done I lashed it to the front crosstree, similar to how the main boom topping lift pendants are attached to the aft crosstree on the main mast top. I attached the fore staysail and jib block pendants to the crosstree before attaching the topsail. The topsail hangs down over these blocks, making it a bit harder to rig the sails. In hindsight it would have been a bit easier to rig the fore staysail and jib before adding the topsail! The staysail tack is lashed to the port side of the bridle for the lower forestay open heart. The staysail downhaul block is lashed to the starboard side of the heart bridle. The downhaul is belayed to a pin on the starboard bow pin rail. I have tied all of the hanks to the sail, but the glue is still drying so I haven't trimmed the loose ends of the lines. The sheets are not rigged yet. The sail interferes with getting to belaying points on the fife rail at the base of the fore mast. With the sheets loose I can pull the sail back forward to open access to the fife rail. I have learned that good access to the fife rail is important. Each of the many lines to points on the fore mast interacts with all the others. I did haul the topsail yard back to its highest position, and this put some lift on the fore course yard. That in turn loosened the fore course yard truss lines and the fore course yard lifts. So those lines had to be tightened. Again, it was wise to use white glue to secure lines after they have been belayed. Adding a drop of water loosened the glue so I could pull the belayed truss and lift lines tight again. And I had to adjust the fore topsail buntlines after raising the topsail yard. I would be willing to bet this won't be the last time I need to adjust lines before the model is finished!

There are reviews on the Forum of the shroud jigs - mostly negative.

Balsa would be easier to cut and shape. The filler blocks do not need to be strong. They just provide a shaped surface between bulkheads to glue the planks to. You don't need to fill the entire space between bulkheads. All you need is something out at the hull surface. Some people just use pieces of wood dowel, with multiple pieces cut to fit horizontally between bulkheads along the outer edges. Whatever you use should extend out beyond the bulkhead edges a bit so you can sand them down to fair a curved surface between the bulkheads.

Had the same problem with my Albatross kit. The supplied guns and carriages only fit under the cap rail if the guns were pointed down. Good for fishing maybe, but worthless for combat. I scratch built a new set of carriages that were lower and allowed the guns to run out horizontal, and then have a 5 degree rise.

Waiting anxiously for more schooner progress!

I have been using a mini iron to heat form planks directly on the hull and it works better than anything else I have tried. I clamp the plank in place in a few places, wet it with a brush, and apply the heat. This gives the planks the correct curvature and twist for fit the shape of the hull, and it only takes a couple of minutes. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37060-uss-cape-msi-2-by-dr-pr-148-inshore-minesweeper/?do=findComment&comment=1074225 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37060-uss-cape-msi-2-by-dr-pr-148-inshore-minesweeper/?do=findComment&comment=1075263

The ratlines look good. I deliberately saved the ratlines for last because much of the rigging belays on the pin rails and fife rails and the ratlines would block access.

More progress, sort of ... Two steps forward and one step back. The fore topsail has sheets, clew lines and buntlines attached, along with the blocks for the clew tackle. This is the aft side where the bolt ropes are attached. Here is the sail installed on the fore mast. The bunt lines attach to cringles on the foot of the sail. They run up the forward side of the sail through wooden thimbles lashed to the topsail yard and up through single blocks attached to the top of the fore topmast. They lead down through fairleads on the mast top crosstrees and then belay to the fife rail at the bottom of the mast. Another picture from the rear. Things are getting crowded around the fore masthead! The topsail yard halliard, clue lines, topsail yard lifts and fore course yard lifts also run through the crosstree fairleads and down to belay at the fife rail or the bulkhead pin rails. So far the lines are running clear with no chafing. I may not need to reroute any of them! While rigging all of these lines the halliard slipped a bit, lowering the topsail yard - probably while I was rigging the buntlines. I didn't intend for the sail to billow out as if there was a strong following wind! Fortunately all of the lines are belayed with just one turn around the belaying pin, and held in place by water soluble white glue. So it is pretty easy to place a drop of water on the glued area and readjust the length of the lines. Pretty obvious are the dangling topsail yard brace pendants and locks. I have discovered that I didn't order enough of the 0.012 inch (0.30 mm) tan rope from Syren. But I did order one extra dark brown 0.012" package! I made the order calculations with my rigging spreadsheet, and I may have mixed the tan and brown ropes when selecting rope length cells. Or maybe I just used more rope than I calculated - I need about four feet more! I have ordered more. Work doesn't have to stop though. I have all the rope I need to finish the foresheets. The topsail yard braces will be some of the last lines to belay. I don't look forward to that! They belay on the rail at the base of the main mast, and that is one of the most inaccessible places on the model! It took me one hour each to rig the main topmast staysail halliard and sheet on that rail! The topsail yard braces belay inboard of those two lines. I'll have to devise some tool to improve my chances of rigging these lines!