Scott Crouse

Finally some time to get back to this build. Got the ribs shaped for planking and got the strake in place. Looking forward to trying planking for the first time

Thanks Chris, still learning all the nautical terminology haha, old dog, new language

There are indeed some really good ones out there but the problem I have is shipping from out Canada being sooooo expensive. Still learning best sources for fittings in Canada. In this case I have some ordered from Great Hobbies (a Canadian franchise) but the new wooden cleats are from Model Shipways, still very blocky looking but I don't mind shaping them and putting holes through them to put make them look more realistic. Same for some 3mm and 3.5mm blocks, from Model Expo but much nicer than the ones in the kit. Sometime I am ordering a big model from the states or elsewhere, will get a bunch of packets of ropes, blocks, cleats (all the little stuff) to make the shipping costs worthwhile. I know they consider these beginner kits but it would be nice to have quality fittings included. I have kept my rigging holes very small at this point and will only slowly make them bigger if I need to but so far it looks like everything will fit on the expo version of this kit. PS - I know that Expo and Shipways are the same company now but I guess it is old expo stock, half the stuff in my local store is marked one way or the other. I do think the newer shipway version of the Lobster Smack looks to be a nicer construction and parts but without having my hands on it, all I can go by is all the build logs. So similar yet so different.

A bit of work done this past weekend. Managed to get the bottom painted. Tamiya Hull Red. Added some porthole windows. Kristal Klear dabbed into the holes and let to dry. Learning how to tie blocks and realizing after the fact that these blocks are not very nice. Staining them to at least improve the colour. Needs another coat yet. Really Midwest? These are the cleats you put in the kit? These are sooooooo bad. Pewter? Really? So have an order in with my hobby supplier for new cleats, blocks for future builds and some other goodies but I am not putting these crap cleats on this model. I don't even think they are in scale either. Wish my brain would have clicked in sooner as to how bad these cleats are and poor the blocks are. Another lesson learned.

They are both acrylics so very minimal smell. Tamiya acrylics are not water based though, you can use lacquer thinners with them or Isopropyl Alcohol or Tamiya X-20a. I do have an airbrush booth but you can get away without one, just wear a mask if you are concerned about particles. I avoid enamels as much as I can but most the rattle cans (particularly the Tamiya cans) have been banned here in Canada now, so that limits the number of primers and clear coats that are available. But with my weather it is difficult to spray outside so I rather use the airbrush when I can.

yes completely agree, the only way I have ever gotten it to work is to use my .5 needle, jack up the pressure, thin at least 50% and add flow improver. But even then, takes forever to dry and I am not a fan of the texture it leaves behind. Their model air colours are much better and the model colours are the same as the primers, need a lot of love and mixing. I know others who love all of the Vallejo products but I just find them so inconsistent compared to Tamiya or Mr Color etc..... But I do recommend trying this Occre one, dries quickly and very nice and the brush seems to like it. Down side is that it is expensive.

It has been some time since I last updated, need to get into the habit of doing my logs. My learning experiences continue; Could they make these blocks a bit bigger please? I love cutting and sanding Wood filler time. Lots of folks seem to cover the entire hull in various putties and fillers, which I thought was kinda silly for a turn of the century ship, but boy did that come back to bite me in the ***. Made the homemade bender they have in the instructions. It kinda work haha. Bending done with the homemade candle/soap can. Came across a 3d print file for a waterline marker, don't need it yet but saved a few bucks. So it appears that my sanding is a bit aggressive, and I can see the light. It will be fine with some primer, just be careful right? WRONG! as soon as you put primer on a soft spot, it bubbles. I put filler on, some putty and the result just coming out the same, you could visibly see and also feel that soft bubble. The noob in me hates to touch it but I need to learn so..... I cut the thin spot out and extended it rib to rib to have something a new piece could attach to. I should have saved the piece, I swear the paint was thicker than the wood was. Just about cried seeing this hole in the boat and all I could think of was turning it into the Minnow from Gilligans Island. But we recovered with a piece of scrap wood and more wood filler. Next problem, priming. I HATE primers. On plastic models I gave up on them years ago. Tamiya paints really do not need them but when it comes to wood, it most definitely needs a primer. I have a bottle of Vallejo primer that does nothing but clog up my airbrush and splatter all over the place. Tried using it first and got so frustrated with the crap that I threw the bottle in the garbage - horrible stuff. Then I noted that OCcre has a primer, what the heck, bought it and gave it a try - I think I have found a primer I like. Spays nicely, sticks really well and smooth as a babies bum. Sanded the boom, mast and gaff - that gaff is very thin....gonna have to be careful. The hole sizes the instructions call for are too scary to drill in that fine width so went smaller for now. Started with the Occre ochre - I hate this colour, nope. Changed it to deck tan. Still not loving it. Since I knew I was going to paint over it, decided to check some hull colours, some greens, blue, grey...... I like the blue. Changed the deck again, a mix of deck tan, yellow and white. I like this colour better. The blue on the hull is ok but needs some highlights to offset how dark it is. Masked off all the rails and side strips and airbrushed some white paint. Pops a bit more now. Also dug out the brass black and started darkening up the brass pieces. Next steps is to get all the hardware on the spars, mark the hull for bottom paint with my fancy dancing homemade 3d printed hull thing-a-bob and get the last of the paint on. Meanwhile the spars are drying after a couple of coats of varnish (going to move to shellac for future builds) but all is going well Cheers.

Starting putting a few deck pieces together, just enough that I can map out the deck.

Trimming, sanding and more sanding and even more sanding and some filler for a few gaps.

God some work done today, I decided to join the two halves together, to me it does not make much sense doing it half and half. Took some time and made a strip to go around the deck, will be adding scuppers at a later date.

Slowly plugging away but not getting too far ahead of Olha's build as I am enjoying watching and emulating her techniques (for the most part) Planking on this thing involves 4 large sheets of balsa. After shaping the ribs, soaking the first board and bending it into shape, the biggest issues is that clamping this shape is difficult to say the least and discovered that one of the ribs, despite sanding, just did not allow the board to sit right. Cut that part open and added a piece to the rib and I am much happier. CLAMPS, CLAMPS AND CLAMPS! Trying to get these pieces in place for future filling, sanding and shaping. I know the Shipways version of this kit has moved to a more traditional style of planking which I think would have been easier.

Managed to get both sides of the hull put together. Can never have enough clamps and elastics . Put the false deck in place. and a test fit (not joining the halves, going to build them up side by side) and everything seems to be lined up nicely. Next up will be preparing the ribs and then doing my first real planking - scared and excited all at the same time!

This one caught my eye many months ago and has been on my list ever since. This will be my first time doing normal planking, the Shipways Dory and Pram were large planks and the Lobster Smack I am doing on a group build is the Midwest version so big slabs instead of planks. Following a few build logs here on Model Ship World as going from wordy instructions from Shipways to a few pages of pictures and 1:1 scale plans is an adjustment - although one I kinda like. Hummed and Haw'd about doing it in halves or putting it together into one frame for planking but decided to try how Billings wants it done - unless someone on here can convince me of the error of my ways? As always, constructive criticism is welcome so I can continue to learn in this great hobby. I still need to get some lego blocks or 123 blocks for leveling things. On my "to make or purchase" list.

I seem to mostly use Gorilla products. Gorilla PVA Wood Glue for the majority of the build and then I have Gorilla CA glue which I use on the ends of ropes or adding that 1 piece that needs to bond quickly. If I have plastic pieces, either the CA or Tamiya Extra Thin. I have been using Gorilla CA for years now and have never had a bottle dry up and my current bottle of PVA is well over a year old and no sign of it drying up or getting old.

Thank you everyone!!!