abelson

Stropped the lower 3/16” closed heart for the Main Preventer Stay and attached it to the eyebolt in the Bow Sprit Bitts. I used 30 gauge wire for the “iron strop” and a Syren closed heart. Added the iron stropped 3/32" bullseyes (not furnished with the kit) for the Main Mast Stay and Spring Stay Lead. I used 28 gauge wire to strop the bullseyes. Added the 1/8” hooked blocks for the Main & Fore Course Yard Lifts. The 3mm hooks are from Crafty Sailor. Next on the To Do List, the Fore & Main Top Mast Crosstrees. Fashioned the Top Mast Crosstrees. The thickness of the straight and curved members of the laser cut Crosstrees are slightly thinner than the plan. Consequently, there’s a gap between the straight and curved crosstree members and trestle tree notch. I filled the gap at the curved crosstree member with wood filler. I will make the bolsters slightly longer to cover the gap at the straight crosstree member. Holes have to be drilled in the laser cut crosstree and the aft crosstree for the futtocks shrouds. The plans call for the shrouds to be .016” line. The kit is not furnished with .016” line. I’m planning on using .018” line purchased from Syren. The crosstrees are very thin so, before drilling the holes, I applied CA to the ends of the crosstrees to prevent them from splitting. I primed the crosstrees and spray painted them black. Next, I stropped the four 1/8” single blocks for the bunt lines and leech lines and two 5/32” single blocks for the top sail halliards and seized them to the straight bar of each forward crosstree. I used the kit supplied blocks. They’re not as pretty as the Syren blocks, but they serve the purpose. Note: Be sure to check the orientation of the blocks before seizing them. The bolsters were added and the crosstrees were permanently attached to the top mast. Just as a matter of observation, the scale of the crosstrees appears to be out of proportion with the rest of the ship. Also, as a reminder, if you fashion the crosstrees off mast and install the collar with thimble on the fore mast, as I did, you will need to hold off installing the chock in the trestle tree until after you slide the crosstree over the top mast. The alternative would be to install the collar after the across tree is installed. Next up, the Topgallant Royal Masts.

Well, thank you. I don't consider myself to be an expert model ship builder, though I have done several. Each model has it's own level of difficulty that requires performing tasks that you may not have done before - it's a perpetual learning experience.

I guess I misinterpreted the comment. Yes, it would be a complement.

Not sure where you're coming from, as I'm not building the Perseverance. I'll take your recommendation as a subtle putdown.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I can see that the blocks need to be aligned with the yard arms. I hadn't permanently affixed the blocks, so this was easy fix (see photos).

In my earlier post, I talked about the eyebolts in the top of the Main and Fore Tops. In reviewing the plan sheets, I discovered that I missed an eyebolt in the Fore Top for the Main Topgallant Stay Lead (Detail 5-D). So, the Fore Top has 5 eyebolts. On the port side there are 3 eyebolts: the Main Topgallant Stay Lead Tackle, and the Topgallant Halliard tackle and the Topsail Reef Tackle (Detail 6-F). On the starboard side there are 2 eyebolts: the Reef Tackle and the Main Royal Stay Lead Lanyard (Detail 5-F). Note: The Topgallant Stay Tackle is made up with a fiddle block. Fiddle blocks are not included in the kit. The Main Top has 3 eyebolts, 2 on the port side for the Topsail Reef Tackle and the Topgallant Halliard tackle, and 1 on the starboard side for the Topsail Reef Tackle. I found the plan sheets to be a little confusing relative to the number and location of eyebolts on the Tops - I hope I've clarified that. I think I’ve completed all of the blocks that get attached to the Fore and Main Tops and Mast caps (see photos). Most noteworthy are the 3/16” single Topping Left Blocks. A note on Sheet 5 says the blocks are stropped over the aft crosstrees and seized around the mast. The only way that this could be done is if there is opening in the Top, which there is not, to allow the block strop to pass over the crosstree as shown on the rigging profile. These blocks on the actual Niagara ship pass over the top (see photo). That’s the way that I set mine up. At this point in the build, I’m going to try to set up the blocks and the bullseyes that are attached to eyebolts in the deck.

Finished the Spanker Mast. Managed to salvage all but one of the laser cut hoops. They are very difficult to remove from the laser board. They’re supposed to be finished “bright” (natural). I removed some of the char from the hoops but not all for fear of breaking them. The plans call for the Spanker Mast to be painted “buff” below the “step” (Spanker Boom rest) and black above the step. From what I have seen from other build logs, most finish the Spanker Mast in “buff.” I decided to finish the entire mast “bright.” (Golden Oak). Because of the char on the hoops, I decided to stain them Minwax Red Mahogany stain. I coated them with polyurethane. Fashioned the little mortise block for the Spanker Mast and glued it to the mast wedge. Note: When you install the Spanker Mast, leave the top of the mast a little above the block for the spanker hole so that you can add the sling for the 5/32’ single blocks for the Spanker Gaff Throat Hillards as shown in Detail 5-J. Completed the Fore and Main Top Mast. They require a lot of filing and sanding to create the “octagonal swell” near the top of the mast in addition to the square sections. I didn’t bother to create the short octagonal section at the bottom of the mast because it won’t be visible. Also, the mast has a “top rope sheave” near the bottom of the mast. I’ve studied the plans and cannot find a “top rope” that passes through the sheave. In reviewing other build logs, I did not find any that added the sheave to the top mast. Nonetheless, I decided to add a faux sheave. Also, the plans note that the fid is “metal,” so I used a 1/64” x 1/16” brass strip – it’s not quite as thick is the plans show but it’s much easier than fashioning one from wood. Besides, it won’t that visible in the final analysis. I finished the mast as per the plans. The applied paint/stain adds to the thickness of the mast, so I had to enlarge the circular opening in the cap in order to slip it over the mast. I find that the black paint seems to hide a lot of the detail in masts. Reviewing the plans for miscellaneous items that should be added to the masts sooner rather than later, I added the following: 1)The closed heart for the Main Stay on the Fore Mast (Detail 5-C) - I used a Syren 5.5mm closed heart instead of the laser cut heart furnished with the kit. The collar was made with .028” rope. 2) The collars for the Spring Stay and the Top Mast Stay - I used 2.5mm bullseyes for the thimbles, painted black. 3) The 5/32" single blocks for the Spanker Gaff Throat Halliards (Detail 5-J) - I added an eyebolt to the port side block for the Spanker Throat Halliard line. and 4) The collar for the main topgallant stay (Detail 5-D) on the Fore Top Mast. I also decided to added pins to the Main and Fore Masts and the Top Masts for securing the the Coarse Yards and Top Sail Yards, respectively. Next on the To Do List, the blocks beneath the tops and the deadeyes.

Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad my build log is helpful - that's the intent. I try to point out discrepancies on the plans and to reference plan details to make it easier to follow my blog. When I review other build logs, I'm always on the lookout for items that are best added sooner rather than later. Your ship is progressing nicely.

Yes, I choose the the Niagara because it is very similar to the Syren.

Nice work. I'll definitely keep an eye on your build log as I progress on mine.

Thanks for the complement. You are correct. Good pick up. If you look close you'll see an indentation just to the left of the eyebolt that is filled in with paint. That's where it should be. I'll leave the incorrect eyebolt where it is and just add another in the correct location. Sail on.

The Fore and Main Masts are fashioned from 3/8” dowel. For the octagonal section, I made pencil marks on the dowel using a strip of wood the approximate width of the octagonal flat surface. This served as a guide for creating each octagonal surface. I used a file and sanding block. The squared, tapered section requires a lot of sanding and filing, as does the notch for the cap. The Fore Mast has a round metal band with a fairlead (ring) for the main top mast stay. I used 1/64”x 1/16” brass strip for the band. I crimped the band around a round needle nose plier to form the ring and then bent band around the Fore Mast. I crimped and cut the ends. I soldered the cut ends together, filed the rough edges smooth, and slipped the band over the mast. The hardest part was soldering the ends. The fairlead has to be large enough to pass a .028” dia. rope (Note: the plans call for this line to be .027” dia. The kit is furnished with .028” dia. rope). The Main Mast has a square band with an eyebolt for the Spanker Halliard. I used 1/64”x 1/16” brass strip for the band, which was bent around the squared section of the mast and finished a la the Fore Mast band. The band was placed over the mast and positioned as shown on Plan Sheet 4. A hole was drilled in the band for the eyebolt. I formed the eyebolt from .020” brass wire, flattened it slightly, and glued it into the pre-drilled hole in the band. Fashioned the metal bands for the Spanker Mast from 3/32”x 1/16” brass strip as shown on Sheet 4. For the faux bolts, I used brass pins. I inserted the pins in my Dremel and filed down the heads and shafts to a smaller scale. The bands were spray painted black. The faux bolt nuts were made for the same strip. I drilled a hole in the strip and then cut it down to scale. I pinned 5.5mm cleats to the masts at the locations shown on Sheet 4. The Crafty Sailor cleats come with a hole drilled through them to facilitate pinning them. Completed the Fore and Main Tops. I didn’t find much discussion on the Tops in other build logs. Maybe because they’re so simple to make, but the most difficult thing for me was drilling the holes for the dead eyes. The wood is thin and brittle. To prevent the wood from splitting, I applied a little CA to the areas to be drilled. I made a photocopy of the Top and used it as a template. The holes are more oblong than round, so I drilled two .55mm holes at each deadeye location and then removed the wood between the holes with an x-acto knife. Even with the CA, the wood still split in some locations. There are two rows of two blocks attached to eyebolts on the underside of the crosstrees, port and starboard. These blocks are for the leach lines and bunt lines. At the Fore Mast Top all blocks are 1/8” double. At the Main Mast Top the inboard blocks are 1/8” single and the outboard blocks are 1/8” double. This is not obvious from the plans because the Main Mast Looking Aft on Sheet 6 shows a double inboard block but Detail 6-H notes that the inboard row of blocks are singles. There are also two 1/8” double blocks forward of the mast. These blocks are for the course yard truss falls, as shown in Detail 6-G on Sheet 6. The Fore Top and Main Top each have 3 eyebolts aft of the mast. These are for the Topgallant Yard Tye Halliard (Detail 6-D) and Top Mast Lifts Reef Tackle (Detail 6-F). Note: The Fore Top also has an eyebolt for the Main Royal Stay (Detail 5-F). I drilled holes for all of the eyebolts and then primed and finish painted (flat black) the tops. I decided to finish the masts below the cheeks “bright” rather than “buff.” I did this because I had pinned the cleats to the unpainted mast and wanted to keep the cleats natural. I thought it would be too difficult to paint around the cleats. I used Minwax Pre-Stain, followed by Minwax Golden Oak stain, and finished with one coat of polyurethane. The area of the masts above the cheeks was primed and then spray painted flat black. I added eyebolts (made from 28 gauge annealed steel wire) to the mast tops. Permanently attached the metal bands for the Spanker Mast – this was easier than anticipated. The tops have been temporarily placed on the masts for photo purposes. Next on the To Do List, the Spanker Mast and Fore & Main Top Masts.

I was not successful in finding 9/32” x .28” flat brass rings for the deadeye strops, so I decided to revert to the Syren Instruction Manual for making the chain plate assemblies (see photos). The instructions are concise and easy to follow. I used 28 gauge (.41mm) annealed steel wire for all chain plate components and CA for securing the wire. As always, patience is a virtue here. By trial and error, I found that a 2” length of wire was ideal for stropping the 3.5mm deadeyes. I scaled the length of the middle link, toe link, and preventer link from the plans and set up my jig accordingly. Completed the 20 chain plates for the 1/8” deadeyes, the 8 chain plates for the 3/32” deadeyes, and the 4 chain plates for the topgallant backstay – this is the first step in beginning the standing rigging. I’m not there yet but wanted to accomplish this task now rather than later. After connecting the middle link with the deadeye strop and toe link, I aligned the cut ends of the middle link and applied a little CA to the joint. I filed the trimmed ends of the strops to even them out. The preventer links were pinned to the hull with brass pins. Note: The brass pins provided with the kit are too big, so I will use the brass pins left over from my Syren build (see photo). The chain plates are a little shorter for the 3/32” stropped deadeyes, so I had to adjust the jig for making the middle link, toe link, and preventer link. For the topgallant backstay chain plates, I used 28 gauge wire for the rod. I wrapped the wire around a 3/32” bullseye and formed an eye at the opposite end. I use 1/4” brass backing links for the preventer link. To get the proper angle of the chain plates, I placed a photocopy of the links onto the bulwarks and aligned it with the notches in the channel. Some minor adjustment was necessary. Hopefully, the angle of the chain plates will coincidence with the angle of the shrouds. With the chain plates in-place, I added the keeper strips to the channels, painted them black, and finished them with a coat of polyurethane. Up to this point, except for the Quarter Davits and Hammock Rails and Stanchions and building the Ship’s Boats, the build is complete through Stage 5 of the Instruction Manual. Now, on to the Stage 6 - Mast and Spar Construction.

Permanently attached the pin rails. Moving on to the Davits and Catheads. I had previously made the Davits (see post #31). I glued them onto the rail and secured them with brass pins for visual effect. The pin heads were filed down. The cleats are 7mm pear wood – left unpainted. Speaking of cleats, I had read in another build log were the 40 kit supplied cleats aren’t enough. Counting all the ones on the mast & boat davits & bowsprit, there are at least 40 cleats. Also, I notice on the plans that the cleats for the masts are smaller than the kit supplied 3/16” (8mm) lead cleats. So, I ordered some 5.5mm and 7.5mm pear wood cleats from Crafty Sailor. For the Catheads, I decided to attach the bullseyes to the Catheads before attaching the Cathead to the rail. I had read about the troubles some other builders had with drilling out the kit supplied deadeyes to make them bulleyes, so I purchased some 2.5mm bullseyes from Model Shipways. A la the tiller blocks, I used .008 black line and made an eye for attachment to the eyebolts on the Cathead (see photo). I glued each Cathead to the bulwark and added a couple of brass pins for visual effect. I made the rod for the Cathead using 28 gauge annealed steel wire. The plans don’t detail how the rod is attached to the Cathead. I attached the rod to the chock rail as shown on Sheet 3. I formed an eye on the opposite end of the rod and attached it to the Cathead with a brass pin. On the replica ship, the rod appears to be attached by a rod that passes through the Cathead and is secure with a nut (see photo). The laser cut knees were a little tricky to install. I had to shape and file them to get a proper fit and shorten the top to clear the faux sheaves. I glued them to the hull and then secured them with brass pins. Moving on, I added an anchor chafing block below each knee (not shown on the plans). Lastly, I removed three eyebolts from the port and starboard side of the bow, seized bullseyes onto them, and reinserted them into the bow. These bulleyes are for the jib stay and back rope lanyards. Note: For what it’s worth, I rely on the plans more than the Instruction Manual, but I decided to review the Manual to see if I had missed anything up to this point. Stage 4 of the Manual covers the mounting of the hull to a baseboard. While I had already fashioned the display board and purchased brass pedestals, I did notice that the Manual says “two brass pedestals and a baseboard are supplied.” The kit is not supplied with these, and it would have been unusual if they had been supplied. I reached out to Model Shipways and they confirmed that the Manual was a miss print. Next, I decided to strop the deadeyes. I found some brass rings left over from my Rattlesnake kit from 1973. These are perfect for stropping the 3/32” deadeyes. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough of them, and model Shipways doesn't sell them anymore. I reached out to them and they suggested contacting Piel Craftsmen in Norfolk, MA (see photo). They do not supply them, although they have an extensive fittings catalog. The deadeye assembly would be simplified with the 9/32” rings if you could find them. Going back in time, in the 1976 Model Shipways catalog (see photos) the strop rings sold for $.25 a dozen. I also found some 1/4” brass backing links which would be perfect for the chain plates - they sold for $.20 a dozen. Unfortunately, I only have 23 of them. In the meantime, I’ll have to contemplate how to strop the deadeyes. Stay tuned.

Except for coils, completed rigging the cannons. At this stage, I think it’s a good time to mount the ship on a permanent display base. The base is 1”x 6”x 24” red oak (purchased at Lowes). The edges were routed. The board was pre-stained with MinWax Pre-Conditioner and finished with MinWax Golden Oak and one coat of polyurethane. The pedestals are from Model Expo. They had to be filed down to fit the keel. I haven’t found much discussion on display boards in other build logs - the size is a matter of preference. I had previously drilled holes in keel for the mounting screws. The ship is taking on a finished look albeit there’s a long way to go. I updated my To Do List. I rigged the tiller as per Detail 5-L on Sheet 5. After reviewing TomE’s build log, I replaced the kit supplied small eyebolt in the waterway with a larger one to accommodate the 3/32” single block for the tiller rigging and the 1/8” double block for the Spanker Boom. For the blocks, I used .008 black line. I made an eye for attachment to the eyebolts. The larger eyebolts were made from 24 gauge brass wire. I realized I needed to seize the tiller tackle to the 3/32” block at the waterway, so I added a small eyebolt to the block. I seized an 8” length of .012 tan rope to an eye on each of the 3/32” single blocks for the tiller tackle. I stropped the two 3/32” single blocks to the tiller. I fashioned the tiller blocks with an eye that slipped onto the tiller. The plans do not show where on the tiller blocks should be placed. Some build logs place them aft of the aft bitts and some forward of aft bitts. By trial and error, I decided to locate them forward of the aft bitts so as not to interfere with belaying the spanker boom sheet to the aft bitts. The plans say to belay the tackle to the tiller, but it isn’t clear where on the tiller and how. I did some research and found that the loose ends of the tackle were turned around the tiller and not belayed. The turns around the tiller provided friction to take away some of the force of the sea on the tiller. The tiller could be controlled by pulling on the loose ends of the tackles rather than controlling the tiller by hand. Be that as it may, I made a few turns around the tiller and left the loose end hanging. While reviewing build logs, I was reminded that I need to notch the aft channels to receive the quarter boat davits. So, I removed the channels, which were not yet permanently installed, and notched them. AT this point, I'm approximately 8 months into the build. It's always reassuring to look back on past photos to realize how far you've come. Next up, permanently adding the cat heads and davits.

Slow progress stropping the blocks for the carronades and long cannons. Completed all of the 80 double blocks (1/8”) with 3 mm hook. Have completed stropping 48 single blocks (1/8”). I added a 6mm eyebolt to the single block for the seized tackle. I found this easier than creating a seized becket. As with the double blocks, some of the blacking comes of the hooks, so I touched them up with black paint. I ran out of 6mm eyebolts, so I had to order more from Model Shipways. In the meantime, I decided to rig the long cannons. I applied CA to the pin that I had added to the long cannon and then set it in a pre-drilled hole in the deck. With a toothpick, I added a little CA under the foremost trucks to further secure the long gun. For the breach line, I cut a 3” length of Syren .035 tan rope. I wrapped each of ends around a 1/8” ring attached to a small eyebolt (prepared previously), seized each end using sewing thread, applied a little CA to the thread, and trimmed the ends. Next, I glued the eyebolts into pre-drilled holes in the bulwark. Note: wrap the breach line around the cannon before securing the opposite end eyebolt to the bulwark. Some of the blackening comes of the rings while reeving the breach line and tends to dirty the line, but I think it makes the line look aged, so okay. The breach lines are a little tricky to wrap around the end of the gun. I made up the gun tackles next. For the gun tackles, I cut a 3” length of Syren .012 tan rope for each gun tackle. Tied one end of the rope to the eyebolt on the single block with a simple half hitch, applied a little CA and trimmed the end – no seizing here, kept it simple. Reeved the opposite end through the double block, single block, and double block. Decided to forego frapping the tackles - the plans don’t call for this anyway. Attached the block hooks to the rings on the gun cheek and the eye bolts in the waterway. Tightened up the rope and applied a little CA to the double block to secure the rope. The tackle ropes will eventually be cut and glued to the deck and rope coils will be added. I’m not planning to add the train tackles. BTW, the 1/8” blocks look a little out of scale to me - just saying. Moving on the carronades, I secured the carriages to the gun port sills by applying yellow glue under the carriage at the pin and inserting the pin into the hole in the gun port sill. I did three carriages at a time port and starboard. While waiting for the glue to dry, I continued stropping the single blocks. For the breach lines, I found it easier to rig them with the guns off-ship. I had prepared the 1/8” ring and small eyebolt assemblies previously. I seized the .012” rope to a 1/8” ring and then cut the rope about 3” beyond the ring. Next, I reeved the rope through the rings on the sliding carriage base and carronade, seized the rope to the 1/8” ring and eyebolt on the opposite side, trimmed and applied a little yellow glue to the eye bolts and inserted them into the pre-drilled holes in the bulwark. The carronade train and gun tackles were made a la the long gun tackles. They’re fairly easy to install. The importance of adequately securing the eye bolts cannot be overstressed, as I had a few come loose while hooking the blocks. I’m continuing the process of gluing the carriages three at a time, stropping single blocks, and making up the tackles- steady as she goes.

Continuing with the build, I decided to add the metal plate at the end of the carronade base. I formed a piece of 26 gauge annealed steel wire around the front edge of the base and then flattened the wire on my vise using a hammer. The plate was bent slightly to match the radius of the base and ends were trimmed. The pin hole was painted black to simulate the metal plate shown on the carronade detail. Drilled holes for all the eye bolts for the carronade and long cannon tackles. Suggestion: Drill the holes and install eye bolts before attaching the mooring cleats and belaying rails. Reviewed the Rigging Profile (Sheet 5) for rigging that gets attached to the other eye bolts that were added to the waterway previously. Added the following blocks P&S: 3/32” single block for the Royal Backstay tackle (seized line) 1/8” single block for the Top Gallant Stay tackle (seized line) 5/32” single block for the Topping Lift tackle (hooked) and 1/8” single block for the Vangs tackle (hooked). With all the eye bolts in-place, I stated removing the photo etched 3mm hooks purchased from Crafty Sailor. If my count is correct, there are 160 hooks required for the carronade and long gun rigging, not counting the train and in-haul tackles which total another 40 hooks. The Crafty sailor hooks come 20 per package. Each hook has to be filed to remove the burrs. All of the hooks were blackened. Moved on to stropping the blocks. As per the plans, there are four 1/8” single blocks and four 1/8” double blocks required per carronade and two 1/8” single and two 1/8” doubles required per long cannon. The 1/8” single blocks have a hook and a seized rope that is reaved through the double block and the single block and back through the double block. I used .008” black rope for stropping the blocks. I find many builders like to use Syren blocks. They do look better than the kit supplied blocks, but I've always had success with the kit supplied blocks so I'm sticking with them. I passed the rope through the eye of the hook, tied an overhand knot, and wrapped the line around the block. This is easier than the more involved and detailed process if creating a seized becket for the hook. I applied CA to hold the line in-place and trimmed it at the top of the block. I found that some of the blackening comes off the hook, so I touched up most of the hooks with black paint. Decided to take a break from the mundane, tedious task of stropping the double blocks to make the sea steps. Using a 1/32” square strip, I cut each step from the strip. The steps are very small and, consequently, difficult to handle. I cut the notch on the backside of each step using an x-acto knife. To even out the notches, I stuck the steps edge to edge on a piece of masking tape and filed them. I turned them over and rounded the ends with a sanding stick. They look authentic, but most of the detail is lost whence the steps are glued to the bulwark and painted. I applied one coat of paint to the steps, sanded them lightly, applied a second coat, and finished them with polyurethane. Now, back to the double blocks, 58 done, 22 to go.

Thank you. I've been referring to your build log for guidance on the carronade rigging - very informative.

Continuing with the carronades, I made the quoins from 3/32” x 1/8” wood strip and 5/16” walnut belaying pins. The pins are a little larger than the scale of detail, but I think they look okay. I filed them down, shortened them, and glued them into a drill hole in the quoins. Painted the quoins red but left the pins unpainted for contrast. Cleaned up the rest of the gun barrels and then spray primed and finish coated (Testors flat black enamel) them. Finished the carronades and long guns. I added a locating pin in the front axle of each of the long guns to hold them in-place. I got this idea from xken’s build log. Now, it’s on to the rigging. Sheet 4 calls for the gun tackles to be .012” line but the kit is not furnished with this size line. Also, the breach lines are to be .031” line but, again, this line is not provided with the kit. There’s a discrepancy in the rigging line sizes between the plan sheets and the parts list – I pointed this out earlier in my build log. Consequently, I had to purchase some .012” and .030” tan rope from Syren Ship Model Company. I also purchased some 3mm hooks for the carronade and long gun tackles from Crafty Sailor. Before I get earnestly into the rigging, I want to check that I have installed all the eye bolts and rings for the rigging as well as other eye bolts that might be difficult to install after the carronades and log guns a rigged. In the meantime, following are photos of the completed carronades and long guns.

Thanks for your input, Steve. I'm retired and a widower, so I have the time to dedicate to the ship model. It keeps me busy in the winter - I'm not in hurry, although I do have the USS Constitution awaiting. Keep up the good work.

Started the tedious task of fashioning the carronade carriages and sliding bases. With the carriages and sliding bases attached to the laser cut board, I sanded them and brushed on two coats of Bulwarks Gun Red on the exposed side. I removed the carriages and bases and sanded and then painted the edges. I admit that it would have been easier to spray paint the carriages and sleds if I had wanted to take the time to find a matching spray paint. Anyway, with that done, I drilled holes in the edges of the carriages and bases for the eye bolts. I made the eye bolts from 28 gauge annealed steel wire. For the recessed breech line and inhaul eye plates, I used 1/16” brass strip. I drilled a hole in the end of each inhaul plate and inserted a 1/8” split ring (I thought the 3/32” split rings were too small – they actually scale less than 3/32”). The carronade detail shows a metal plate on the end of the carriages. These are not furnished with the kit, so I didn’t bother to added them. The roller castings were spray painted black and glued on the carriages with wood glue. For the breech lines and inhaul plates I carefully cut and filed a recessed slots in the platforms. Completed all the pieces for the carriages and sliding bases. Blackened the breech line plates with rings and the inhaul eye plates. Finished the carriages and sliding bases. Made the pins that fit into the gunports from toothpicks sanded down to size using my Dremel. Cleaned up the gun barrel feet to deburr them. Deburred one gun barrel and test fit it - 17 more to go. Still need to make the quoins.

I didn't round the underside of the bowsprit. I just rounded the edges. Once the bowsprit is in-place it won't be obvious that the bottom is not completely round. As for shaving off a bit of wood, again, it won't be that the noticeable that the bowsprit is slightly larger. Besides, in the process of creating the octagonal sections and shaping the bowsprit you will have naturally trim it down.

Thank you. Glad it's helpful - that's the intent.

Just a brief progress update. Updated the To Do List. Before starting on the carronade carriages, I decided to make the dolphin striker - didn't want to leave this hanging (no pun intended). This was fairly easy following the detail on Sheet 4. It’s made from 3/32 square wood strip. I drilled the holes before shaping the striker. The metal staples were made from 26 gauge wire. Now, on to the carronade carriages. Stay tuned.

Checked off a few items on the To Do List. Finished the ship ladders, they’re not perfect but probably won’t be that noticeable. Installed the mooring cleats. Secured them with brass pins. Filed down the pin heads using my Dremel. Cut the pins down to size and filed the cut ends. Aligned the cleats with the sweep ports and drilled holes in the ceiling for the pins. Added “NIAGARA” on port and starboard sides of the bow. The lettering is not perfect, but, again, won’t be that noticeable. Decided to add the previously fashioned pin rails. I have found that there is very little discussion in other build logs on the pin rail tension rods. Some build logs eliminated them altogether. I’m inclined to do likewise, as they seem to be a pain in the *** to install. Attached the pin rails temporarily in case I need to remove them. I used the pins that I cut off the pins heads I used to attach the mooring cleats. After reading some other build logs regarding the fragility of the riding bits I decided to reinforce them by adding brass pins (see photos). All the deck furniture is complete and will be stowed away while other work is being done on the deck. Completed the channels. According to Detail 3-B, the channels are 3/16” wide fore and taper to 3/32” aft. I used 3/32” x 3/16” strips. The channel thickness tapers from 5/64” at the hull to 3/64” at the keeper. Fashioned the channels by gluing a cut out of the fore and aft channels to the wood strip and then cutting, filing, sanding the strip to match the cut out. Filed the slots for the iron strops for the deadeyes. Hopefully, they’re deep enough and wide enough for the deadeye strops. Drilled holes in the channels for insertion of pins to secure the channels to the hull, primed and painted the channels black, and pinned them to the hull temporarily. Note: The aft channels need to be notched to receive the quarter boat davit. Fashioned the jib boom and flying jib boom. The flying jib boom is attached to the bowsprit cap by a square tenon. I assembled the bowsprit, jib boom, and flying jib boom to check the fit. I didn’t like the way the flying jib boom tenon fit the bowsprit cap, so I decide to fabricate a longer cap from the laser cut board (see comparison photo). Note, the mortise in the center of the cap is not correct. I realized the flying jib boom is offset to the left, so the cap mortise was modified accordingly. Made the flying boom iron from 1/32” brass strip. I formed the strip into a figure eight and soldiered the ends together – I must say that my soldering skills are improving. For me, the hardest part of soldering is holding the piece you’re soldering in-place while you solder it. I taped the boom iron to my vise. This freed my hands to solder - it worked out well in this case. Test fit the iron - looks good. I’ve added some photos of the assembly temporarily fit to the bow. I need to update the To Do List. Thinking about working on the carronade carriages next.