abelson

You've taken the sagging of the breech lines to the nth degree. They look good.

I used Syren tan .025” brown rigging line for the breech ropes and .008” for the seizing. I have been unable to order from the Syren website lately. I think I read somewhere where they're going our of business????

Excellent work on the quarter badges. You obviously can see three dimensionally - not everyone can.

Nice work. Progressing well. For the gun ports, did you use the pieces cut from the bent planks? Did you plank over the ports and then cut them out?

Finished the starboard side shrouds. For the catharpins, I followed WalrusGuy’s build where the catharpins are lashed in two parts to the shrouds. I made the first part of the catharpins from .018 black line made with an eye splice at each end and 1 1/8” long. Note: I realized later, after looking at the detail on Sheet 5, that the catharpins should be shorter (about ¾”) - it’s important to look at the plan sheets as well as the instructions. The second part consists of short lengths of .018 black line reeved through the eye splice and tied around the stave at each end as shown on Sheet 5. The first part was easy. The second part was difficult because of the need to adjust the lengths of the tie lines to center and tension the eye spliced line. I set up the ties port and starboard, secured one loose end with CA, reeved the other loose end through the eye, wrapped it around the stave and attached a clip to it (see photo). Then, I adjusted the clips to center the eye splice line, secured one tie with CA, and then tensioned the line by pulling on the loose end of the other tie and securing it with CA. The loose ends were trimmed. After a couple of failed attempts, I successfully completed the cartharpins. I'm satisfied with how they turned out, although one has a little kink in the line (from CA glue). I hope the lower fore main cartharpins will be easier. I’m still waiting for 3/32” double blocks for the main stay. Model Expo sent 3/16” single blocks instead of 3/32” double blocks. In the meantime, I decided to begin “rattling down” the lower shrouds. I used the prototypical card with lines on it to help evenly space and level the rat lines. I spaced the lines at a ¼” (0.22 row spacing on an Excel spreadsheet). The .008 ratlines were tied using clove hitches, except for the first shroud where an overhead knot was used – found it easier to secure the line this way. This is definitely tedious work – patience is a virtue here. I found the process easier as you move up the shrouds. I applied CA to each clove hitch and touched them up with some diluted black paint. So far, I’ve completed the port side lower main shrouds and futtocks shrouds rat lines, but not without incident. While doing the rat lines on the futtock shrouds, the seizing on the aft most shroud came undone at the hook - Murphy's Law. I decided against reconstructing it. I was able to re-seize it. I don't really like the way it turned out, but I'm willing to accept some imperfection here over the aggravation of otherwise having to replace it.

Novel idea on the window frames. So far so good.

Great innovation on the "multi-cleat pinning jig." And, I share your frustration on items pinging off the tweezer - some of them never to be found.

I’m still waiting for the four (4) 2.5 mm (3/32”) pear wood double blocks from Model Expo. I wanted to seize them to the main stay before adding the fore lower shrouds but that’s not going to happen. In the meantime, I completed the first pair of shrouds on the starboard side and one shroud on the port side. I had to order more 3.5mm deadeyes. The kit comes with the exact number needed for the lower shrouds. I lost or misplaced 4 deadeyes. While waiting for the deadeyes, I decided to make the mouse for the fore stay and fore preventer stay same as the main stay and main preventer stay. I measured the length of .04 and .028 black line required for the stays using Sheet 7 and cut each length 13”, allowing for wrap around the mast head, the 5mm closed heart, and making the eyebolt. I set up each stay and determined where the mouse needs to be positioned and applied CA to secure it. I painted each mouse black and finished them by seizing with black thread. I’ll put this aside until I finish the fore lower shrouds. My Model Expo order arrived, so it’s on to the fore lower shrouds again. I completed the first port side pair, the second starboard and port side pairs, and the single shrouds. No problems here. I left the single shroud lanyards loose in case I have to remove them to install the lower double blocks on the main stay. Now, on to setting up the fore stay and fore preventer stay. The fore stay and fore preventer stay were setup with Syren 5mm closed heart (I like the thickness of these hearts over the laser cut ones provided with the kit) seized to the loose end of each stay. The closed hearts were set up with .012 tan lanyards reeved between the hearts and the open hearts on the bowsprit collars added in Chapter 16. This is a big milestone. The rigging is starting to take shape. Now onto the sheer poles and futtock staves. Lashed a 1/32”x 1/32” sheer pole and futtocks stave on the starboard and port side of the main lower shrouds. I painted them black before lashing them. The sheer poles were easier to lash than the staves. The futtock shrouds are next. I seized a hook to one end of each .021 black shroud. The hooks were made from 1/32” brass eyebolts. After seizing the hook, I cut the line to about 2" long. The hooks were attached to the deadeye plates and the loose ends were wrapped around the futtock stave, glued to hold them in-place, seized to the lower shrouds and trimmed. I used black sewing thread for the seizing. So far, I’ve completed the port side futtocks shrouds.

Before starting on the fore lower shrouds, I decided to look at the blocks that need to be attached to the Main Stay. Plan Sheet 7 shows 3/32” D blocks. My Model Shipways kit was not furnished with 3/32” D blocks. Oddly, it was furnished with 13/32” S blocks, which are not noted anywhere on the plan sheets and are otherwise way to big (see photo). Two pairs of 3/23” D blocks are required. Model Shipways offered to provide these. To clarify Sheet 7, I’ve included a latitudinal sketch showing the two (2) 3/32” D blocks that are required at two locations on the main stay. These blocks are for the Fore Top Sail Braces and the Fore Braces. The Fore Top Sail Braces pass (27) through the inside sheaves of the blocks and the Fore Braces (17) pass through the outside sheaves as noted on page 122 of the instruction manual. Will follow up with a photo when I receive the blocks.

Continuing with Chapter 18, I began the main stay rigging by making the mouse. I followed SalD’s method (excellent idea), i.e., I used a 5/64” diameter dowel and shaped the end in a pencil sharpener. I drilled a hole in the end of dowel with a .55mm bit first and then gradually increased the bit size to accommodate the .04 black main stay line. Then I roughly shaped the end dowel with sandpaper before inserting it into the pencil sharpener to get its basic shape. I measured the length of the mouse from Plan Sheet 5 and marked it in pencil on the dowel. Before cutting off the dowel, I scored the pencil line, removed some of the dowel with a knife and then filed around the score to get the basic shape of the mouse. I then cut off the dowel and finished shaping the mouse. The process is pretty easy. It’s important that the drill hole is centered in the dowel. I applied CA to the end of the main stay line to make it easier to pass it through the mouse. Next, I seized an eye onto one end of the rigging line using sewing thread. I measured the length of the main stay from Sheet 5, allowing extra length for the wrap around the mast head and seizing the 5mm closed heart to the loose end. I set up the main stay around the mast head temporarily to get the distance of the mouse from the mast (about 1 5/8”). I glued the mouse to the main stay and painted it black. I finished the mouse by seizing it with black thread. I passed the loose end of the main stay through the eye and then inserted the line through the Lubbers Hole and looped it around the mast head and on top of the shroud gang - make sure the slings are on the outside of the main stay. As a matter of note, the orientation of the mouse and eye as shown in the photo on Page 96 of the instructions is opposite that shown on Plan Sheet 5. Some build logs have followed the orientation on the photo and some have followed the orientation on Sheet 5. I chose the orientation on Sheet 5 – I guess it’s a matter of preference. I seized a Syren 5mm closed heart to the loose end of the line with black sewing thread. Before I set up the lanyard, I realized that the main stay rigging was inside of the trestle trees rather than on the outside as depicted on Sheet 5 – OOPS! So, I had to remove the closed heart and re-thread the line so that it is on the outside of the trestle trees – PHEW! With that done, I reeved the .012 tan lanyard between the main stay heart and the heart rigged on the foremast. I reeved the line 4 times around the hearts. I tied off the first reeve at the main stay heart. I didn’t tie off the last reeve; just applied CA to it on the back side of the main stay heart. Next, the main preventer stay. I made the mouse in the same manner as the main stay. I measured the length of the main preventer stay from Sheet 5, allowing extra length for the wrap around the mast head and seizing the 5mm closed heart to the loose end (about 17”). I set up the main preventer main stay around the mast head in the same manner as the main stay, making sure the line was on the outside of the trestle trees. I seized a Syren 5mm closed heart to the loose end of the main preventer stay. I had previously glued the eyebolt for the main preventer stay heart that is secured to the deck. I didn’t want to remove the eyebolt in order to seize the heart to it, so I decided to make a hook on the end of the 5mm closed heart using 22 gauge wire. The eyebolt is in a confined space, so rather than hook the heart to the eyebolt and then set up the lanyard, I found it easier to set up the lanyard with the hooked heart off ship and then hook the heart to the eyebolt. This worked well. I was able to adjust the reeves to tighten the stay. So far so good. Now on to the fore lower shrouds. Stay tuned for update.

Good choice on the tung oil.

Began rigging the shrouds as per the instructions. To get the distance between the deadeyes I used a "deadeye claw" made from 20 gauge wire. I cut two lengths of wire, twisted them around each other, separated the end wires, bent the wires on one end, matched the bent ends with the deadeye plan on Sheet 5, and then bent the opposite end wires at the corresponding deadeye. I applied CA to “solder” the twists. Using Sheet 5 as a guide and allowing for wrap around the mast and the dead eye, I cut two lengths (about 18”) of .028 black line for the fore most starboard and portside main mast shrouds. I looped each line and seized it with .012 black line about ½” below the loop. The shrouds were looped over the main mast and passed through Lubbers Hole. Note: I believe the jeer lines are outside the shrouds, so, if you install the jeer lines ahead of the shrouds as I did, the jeer line must be passed through each shroud loop so that it is on the outside of the shrouds – in hindsight, I would have installed the jeers after completing the shrouds. With the claw in-place, I setup the first pair of shrouds on the starboard side, seized the deadeyes with .012 black line, and made the lanyards with Syren .008 light brown rigging line following the illustration in the instructions, except that I only made three lanyard hitches. Some of the perfection in the lanyard hitches will be covered by the sheer poles. For me, the difficult part of rigging the shrouds was seizing the deadeyes at the end of the shrouds. I setup the port side pair of shrouds in the same manner. I repeated the procedure for next pair of shrouds. Even with the claw, there are some deviations in the lengths of the lanyards. The perfectionist in me made me redo some of the shrouds. After a couple of failed attempts, I changed my tact. Still cutting an 18” length of .028 black line, I seized the deadeye at one end of the shroud off ship, setup the lanyard, passed the loose end through the Lubbers Hole, looped it around the mast, passed it through the Lubbe’s Hole, and seized the line at the mast head. I then setup the claw, seized the deadeye on the loose end, and set up the lanyard. This procedure work well for me. To hold the deadeye and shroud in-place, I clipped an allegator clip on the deadeye. Making sure that the deadeye holes were oriented correctly, I applied a little CA glue to the deadeye and shroud and removed the clip. This made it easier to seize the line. There are still some deviations in the lengths of the lanyards. There not perfect, but I’m willing to accept a little imperfection here. To complete the main lower shrouds, the last shroud was rigged on each side of the ship. I made these shrouds a little longer (11”) to account for lapping over the other shrouds and looping and seizing the line around the mast head. The deadeye and lanyard were rigged in the same manner. Next up, the main stay.

Completed securing the chain plate assemblies to the hull. My concern about the chain plate assemblies hanging below the wale turned out not be a concern at all. The chain plates ended up being shorter than depicted on the plans. I used the kit provided brass pins to secure the chain plates. The pins are too long and need to be cut down. Installing them was quite difficult and frustrating. I decided to follow the alignment/angle of the chain plates shown on the plans rather than rig a temporary shroud from the mast top. I secured the fore and main lower masts. I didn’t do anything special here, just used “yellow” carpenters glue per the instructions, eyeballed it, and held the masts in-place until the glue dried sufficiently for the mast to stand on its own. To get the proper angle for the main mast, I used a piece of cardboard that was cut at the same angle as the plan. I had to insert some wedges to hold the mast at the proper angle. I waited 24-hours before cutting off the wedges. To further secure the masts, I applied CA around the perimeter. The laser cut mast coats were slid down into position. I didn’t coat the coats to simulate canvas and tarring as some other build logs have done. On to the standing rigging. The main and fore mast lower pendants were next. These were made from .021 black line. To get an approximation of the length of line, I scaled the length of the pendent below the top 1.5" and added 1.25" to wrap around the mast. I made an eye in the end of the line by wrapping the line around a rounded needle nose plier, applying a little CA, and then seizing the line with black thread. I then cut the line at an angle 1.5" from the end of the eye. The ends of the two pendants were then glued and seized to the respective lines at a distance of 1 1/8” from the eye. The eyes were painted black. After installing the pendants, I attached a clip to the end of each pendant to stretch them out. The pendants ended up measuring just under 1.5". Credit to WalrusGuy for his build log photos documenting how he made the pendants. Next up, the main lower shrouds

Excellent work and photos.

Started Chapter 18 by making the 28 gauge wire deadeye strops for the 2.5 mm (8 required) and 3.5mm (20 required) deadeyes. These were fairly easy to make. I set up a jig as per the instructions. I deviated from the instructions by gluing the deadeye after bending the wire around the deadeye. I found this to be easier, plus I could position the deadeye. I trimmed the excess wire and applied a little CA with a toothpick to secure the wire. I finished it off by filing the cut ends. Next, I made the eight (8) eye bolt links. I set up the jig and followed the instructions, except for one deviation. I crimped the link around the nails before cutting the wire. Cutting the wire after crimping gives is a little difficult but it gives a closer fit between the wires. The middle links (36) and the toe links (36) were next. I had read in some build logs where the chain plate assemblies hang below the wale. To err on the side of caution, I made the links 3/16” instead of 1/4”. I set up the jig and went about making the links as per the instructions. The middle links are easy to make, the toe links not as easy. I decide to use the brass photo etched plate preventer links rather than make them from 28 gauge wire. I blackened all the links and assembled them. I bent the end of the toe links so they will lay flush with the hull when nailed. To position the link assemblies in the notches in the channel and apply CA to secure them I placed the ship on its side. I completed the starboard side first. On the port side I changed my tack (no pun intended). I used white glue to set the assemblies. The assemblies stick to the more gelatinous white glue, making it easy to position them without tipping the ship on its side. After the white glue dried, I applied a little CA to secure the assemblies. Next, I added the 1/16” x 1/16” molding strip along the edge of each channel. I painted the strips on three sides before gluing them to the edge of the channel. I decided to permanently install the bumpkins. Before gluing them in-place, I seized a 1/8” single block to the end of each bumpkin using .008 black line. Note: The instructions in Chapter 20 say to seize a 3/32” single block to the end of the bumpkin for the fore course tack, but Sheet 7 notes the block is 1/8”. Also, I created an eye at the 1/8” block to seize the .008” tan rigging for the fore course tack. This is different than the instructions which call for this line to be seized to the end of the bumpkin behind the block. This mimics Bloemendaal’s build log. The bumpkins were finished off with a simulated iron bracket to hold the bumpkins down on top of the headrail. Making these is tricky because the bumkins aren’t square to the headrail. I tried a strip of copper tape first with no success. I ended up using a scrap strip of brass from the photo etched fittings. it took quite a bit of bending, twisting, and patience to get the proper shape for the brackets. Next up, securing the chain plates to the hull.

Wow! You're already moving along. No rest for the weary. Good luck. I'll be following.

Congratulations! What a fantastic ship model and outstanding photo documentation. Excellent job on the flags - very life like. You definitely have a talent for model ship building - it's your engineering background and visualization and attention to detail.

Thanks. I didn't find much discussion on how to make the jeer blocks and slings in other build logs so I thought I would add some. I hope it's helpful.

I completed the jeer blocks and slings before permanently setting the masts – it’s easier that way. The jeer slings were made from .012 tan line (doubled). To make the slings, I wrapped the line around the handle of my x-acto knife, tied the line with an overhand knot, applied a little CA, and trimmed the ends with nail clippers. The 1/8” single jeer blocks were seized to .012 black line. I looped the loose end of the line around the jeer sling and applied a little CA to create an eye and seized the line below the eye with some black sewing thread. The length of the jeer line from eye to tip of block is about 1 3/4”. The sling was made from .012 black line. I measured the length of the sling (about 5 ¾”) from the sling detail on Sheet 6. To err on the side of caution, I cut a 6” length of .012 black line. I made the oblong shaped stimulated thimble as shown on Sheet 6. The two loose ends have an eye. I made the eye on one end and then test fit the sling before looping the loose end through the completed eye. I found that had just enough line to loop the loose end through the eye and seize the line. So, for the next sling I cut a 6 1/2” length of .012 black line. Note: In the photo of the slings one sling is longer than the other. This is because the main lower yard is lower on the mast than the fore lower yard. Lastly, for the gaff throat halliard, I seized a generous length (17”) of .008 tan line to the 1/8” double block under the main top. Except for permanently stepping the masts, Chapter 17 is complete.

Glad you're back. Looking good.

FYI, before starting the jeer block and slings, while I was reviewing WalrusGuy’s build log, I notice his topgallant masts have some additional blocks. So, I began reviewing the rigging plan on Sheet 7 and discovered that there are four (4) 3/32” blocks on the fore topgallant mast (2 for the lifts, 1 for the buntline, and 1 for the main royal stay). The plan of the fore and main topgallant mast/pole on Sheet 5 doesn’t show all of the block. I added two blocks to the fore topgallant mast. Likewise, I discovered there are three (3) 3/32” single bocks on the main topgallant mast (2 for the lifts and 1 for the topgallant bunt line). I added another block for the top gallant bunt line (See photos). Reviewing Sheet 7 was time well spent. I reviewed the instructions concurrently with Sheet 7 and made notations on Sheet 7 for later reference. I marked-up the plan view of the fore and main topgallant masts to show all of the blocks (see attached). Now it’s on to the jeer blocks and slings. Stay tuned.

Intriguing model. You definitely have a talent for model ship building.

Completed the fore and top masts. The masts were made from 3/16” dowel and shaped to create the square and octagonal surfaces shown on the plans. Made the fids from a 1/16” x 1/16” strip and shaped them as shown on the plans. The cheeks were made from a 3/32” x 1/16” strip. Rather than file two small grooves on one side of each cheek to simulate the sheave holes, I glued the cheeks to the top mast and then drilled holes. I added a brass pin to each mast to secure the yards. I found the cross and trestle trees to be a bit tricky to assemble. I predrilled the holes in the ends of the cross trees before removing them from the laser cut sheet. In so doing, one of the cross trees split – good thing there is a spare. I followed the instructions in assembling and gluing the cross trees and trestle trees. Rigged the four 3/32” single blocks that hang from the top mast crosstrees and the one 1/8” single block on the fore top for the top gallant stay. The plans do not show where on the cross tress the 3/32” blocks are to be placed, only that two are located on the aft cross tree and two are located on the mid cross tree. However, the photo on Page 99, appears to show the blocks midway between the end of the cross tree and the trestle tree. So, that’s where I placed them. The bolsters were made from 1/16” x 1/16” strip as per the instruction. Painted the bottoms and tops of the top masts black and stained the rest Golden Oak. The fore and main topgallant masts/posts were made and shaped from 1/8” dowel. I used a makeshift lathe consisting of a Dremel and a cordless drill. I cut the dowel to a reasonable length, allowing enough length for insertion into the Dremel chuck and the drill chuck. I secured one end of the dowel to the Dremel chuck. The other end was allowed to spin freely in the drill chuck. This worked well. I used files and a sanding blocks to taper the dowel. The first top gallant mast was shaped without incident. The second topgallant mast snapped at the post. It was a clean break, and I was able to pin and glue the two pieces together – no harm, no foul. The fids were made and shaped using 1/32” x 1/32” strip. The simulated sheaves were created/drilled through the masts using a .55mm drill bit. I followed the instructions, i.e., marking the hole locations on both sides of the mast and then drilling the holes on both sides. Lastly, I added the ball truck on the tip of the mast pole, made from a scrap piece of 1/8” dowel sanded/filed down to scale and then drilled to accommodate attachment to the pole. The truck was painted black. The masts were painted black between the cap and the heal of the mast and around the top sheave. I added brass pins to secure the yards. The 3/32" single blocks for the lifts, bunt lines, and royal stay (foremast) were rigged to the finished topgallant masts. As a matter of clarification, Plan Sheet 5 does not show the 3/32” single blocks for the fore royal lifts. The plan is confusing in this regard. Refer Sheet 7 to see these blocks. I stepped the masts temporarily to check the fit and alignment. The main topgallant mast does have a noticeable rake aft. I had to file down the cross tree and the back side of the topgallant mast to get the proper rake. The fore topgallant mast had an excessive rake. Filing the cross tree and back side of the topgallant mast didn't correct the problem. The solution was to make a slightly longer cap, made from laser sheet stock. The longer cap is hardly noticeable. Next challenge, the jeer blocks and slings.

Fantastic work on rope coils. Photography is excellent, as usual.

Transom looks good. The trim is a good addition. It de-emphasizes the black and draws your eye more to the carvings. Nice work.