Jump to content

Capt. Kelso

NRG Member
  • Posts

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Capt. Kelso

Recent Profile Visitors

769 profile views
  1. The process I follow is to glue then paint. I use an airbrush, paint the hull and then mask off the items to be painted a different color. Tamiya has a good product line of masking tape which I use.
  2. I've used an older version of the Harbor Freight scroll saw to scratch build RC airplane frames, similar build concept to model ship building. After some practice I found it to be an excellent tool.
  3. I've removed paint from plastic kits by just soaking in Windex. I use a small plastic storage bin with a lid, paint usually will peel off. Used an old toothbrush on the stubborn paint.
  4. Some progress on deck structures. Need to clean up the copper on the try works, trying to give it a slight weathered look.
  5. You didn't provide any details on the "product", who makes it? I've never seen it before.
  6. Here's my set up using a parts bin from Home Depot and some Modular units from Hobbyzone. The units are made of strong material which I assembled with wood glue. I didn't include everything on my bench, various other Modular units. I included the link. The draw units are excellent and available in different sizes. HobbyZone USA Modular Workshop System Solutions
  7. Good start with your build. Another option for making oars, a piece of wood dowel and scrap wood. The top oar in the photo is the kit oar, I wasn't happy with them.
  8. Finished painting the hull and bulwarks. Adding the deck structures beginning at the bow. This is an old school time-consuming build, few cast fittings, no laser cut pieces. The kit instructions and plans lack considerable detail. I have to keep reminding myself the plans (kit and Museum) are not of the actual ship but are a representation of period vessels. Thanks to Thomas J. Lauria, (https://tjlauria.com/gallery/whaling-schooner-kate-cory/) and his model of Kate Cory for helping me keep my sanity and providing additional detail.
  9. I did some hull reefing on the L. A. Dunton Schooner under restoration at Mystic Seaport, the caulking went through the planking. That could be the result of the wood aging and sagging. When I removed ceiling planks and any excess Oakum from inside the hull, size of gaps in hull planks clearly varied. The hull planks being replaced were not milled to provide gaps for caulking.
  10. Haven't made much progress of late, some life issues interfered with my hobby time, imagine that. The Try Pots have been an interesting project, more involved than I expected. Everything except the pots is scratch built. Fortunately, the Whaling Museum plans are very detailed. I still have some minor detailing, then a coat of Dullcoat lacquer will help bring color consistency. I think I did a post on the brickwork some time ago. Started with a piece of scribed deck and using a small screwdriver added the lines of bricks. Sealed the wood and painted using a rust color. When dry, a wash of light gray watercolor to highlight the mortar. Finishing the remaining deck structures. When building these small deck structures, I have found using various size precut small wood strips, HO and N scale modeling supplies, make it easier to reproduce scale trim and framing pieces. Also, poly rod was used for the window bars (have to post another photo).
  11. I've used the Chopper I & II for many years for various projects with good results, especially cutting hull and deck planks. The Chopper II is a much-improved version of the Chopper I, it's important to change the blades regularly.
×
×
  • Create New...