Capt. Kelso

Haven't made much progress of late, some life issues interfered with my hobby time, imagine that. The Try Pots have been an interesting project, more involved than I expected. Everything except the pots is scratch built. Fortunately, the Whaling Museum plans are very detailed. I still have some minor detailing, then a coat of Dullcoat lacquer will help bring color consistency. I think I did a post on the brickwork some time ago. Started with a piece of scribed deck and using a small screwdriver added the lines of bricks. Sealed the wood and painted using a rust color. When dry, a wash of light gray watercolor to highlight the mortar. Finishing the remaining deck structures. When building these small deck structures, I have found using various size precut small wood strips, HO and N scale modeling supplies, make it easier to reproduce scale trim and framing pieces. Also, poly rod was used for the window bars (have to post another photo).

I've used the Chopper I & II for many years for various projects with good results, especially cutting hull and deck planks. The Chopper II is a much-improved version of the Chopper I, it's important to change the blades regularly.

Congratulations on your build.

It's helpful to clean off any burn marks, especially any areas that will be painted. Regarding the width of the frames, don't be too concerned if they are a little wide because they will need to be faired when you start planking.

Impressive!

Finished coppering the hull and then mounted on a temporary base. It is important not to use a cradle as it will damage the plates. The thin wood strip is a "wood guard" added at the water line as noted in the Whaling Museum plans. Next step is to finish the rudder, hinges, and give the copper a good cleaning before airbrushing a coat of Dullcote lacquer. This stage of the build was very time consuming and I am anxious to start on the deck structures

Looking to buy a vintage Bluejacket Kit, Cabot. Prefer complete unstarted.

Started coppering the hull. This is a very tedious and time-consuming process, especially preparing the plates. There are many posts regarding "how to" but they basically involve using copper tape. This process involves applying individual plates. For reference material I have books and copies of NRJ articles as noted in my prior posts. These are in addition to plans from New Bedford whaling Museum. The color of the plating is a modelers choice, I choose a dullish color similar to "yellow metal" or" Muntz metal" because after the early 1830's a composite zinc/copper mixture metal was used, Kate Cory was built in 1856. The reference material also contains a comparison of how copper plating was manufactured and stored which also impacted the color, dull versus today's bright color copper used on yachts for example. I made a template from .020 plastic stock to mark the belts. To prepare the plates, first remove the adhesive from the copper tape by soaking the tape with backing attached in a jar of lacquer thinner. Once the backing became loose, wipe the adhesive off the tape with a clean cloth. Then, back in a jar of clean thinner. After the second cleaning, pass the tape over a heat source, I use a small candle to dull the color. This process will not produce a uniform color effect! Next, start cutting, these plates are 1/4" x 3/4" which is close in scale (with overlap) to the 14" x 48" plates used on the Kate Cory. I estimate I cut approximately 400 plates. Once the plates were cut, back in the jar for cleaning, remove fingerprints, etc... Excluding prep time, I've spent 4 hours applying plates, long way to go. Once the adhesive sets, I'll smooth out the plates.

Impressive build!

When I built my first wooden ship model, Model Shipways Katy, I read an article on rigging written by Erik A. Ronnberg Jr., his "tip" was to dissolve beeswax in a solvent like turpentine (I use turpentine). Soak the thread in the solution and clean it by drawing it through a clean cotton cloth (I use an old t-shirt). The rigging on the oldest model I still have, built in 1992, shows no signs of deterioration and unlike me, the rigging is not sagging.

Finished much of the bulwarks and various railings. Used my new Mini Dremel on the pin rails, great tool! I was amazed at how accurate it is, very little vibration, made the task easy. Putting in the gangway was more challenging than expected, plans were somewhat hard to interpret. But it adds a nice detail. I was struggling with the shade of "green color paint" to use on the bulwarks and deck structures. Fortunately, Tom Lauria shared some helpful information on mix ratio's he used for his 1/4" scale build (you can find Tom's build on YouTube). I use only enamel or out of production Floquil paints and after some trial and error feel I have a decent period color representation. As I progress with the build and anticipating next steps, I have found the kit plans are lacking in detail. I am continually reviewing the plans from New Bedford Whaling Museum as well as the two books noted in my initial post. Interestingly, both sets of plans were drawn by E A. Ronnberg Jr. whaling historian. My next step will be coppering the hull. I plan to use a "checkerboard" appearance. It is a tedious process involving attaching individual plates. First the copper is heated to produce variations in color, "yellow metal". The term used to describe the color of the copper plates during that period. This will be my second attempt using this process, my first was 25 years ago, Model Shipways Eagle. It's nice to have something to compare with and note area's "needing improvement". I'll add more background about this process in my next post.

Thanks John. I've corresponded with Tom Lauria previously regarding his Kate Cory and schooner Benjamin Latham, always helpful.

Welcome, I was always a fan of the movie as well. FYI, recently I was searching for some scale figures for another Club member and stumbled on a couple available for the Billings African Queen. Just enter "African Queen" in the Ships in Scale search engine. Also, while searching EBay, entered African Queen, found these, Vtg Original Bogart’s African Queen Boat Key Largo FL (5) 35mm Slides. Looks like they contain some good detail for a model. Good luck!

Every build is a learning experience. Overall, you did a good job with the basic construction. Personally, as suggested, I would buy a new kit and start over. I believe Model Expo has an incentive for their Dory kit. Once completed, send them a photo and you receive a credit. One further thought, check this site for Dory reference information. It's a popular build and there many tips and tricks noted.

wefalck, I was considering using Vallejo Acrylic for the figures and reviewed some of the plastic model forums for feedback. I did note some recommendations to seal the base coat before applying a wash and highlights. It appears this step helps protect the base coat from damage during the weathering process. I interpreted that to mean damage from dry brushing rather than the wash. This made sense to me as other sites noted acrylic paints are not as durable. I did try using an acrylic wash on one of the line tubs and found it difficult remove once it dried.