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Capt. Kelso

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About Capt. Kelso

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    Milton, Delaware

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  1. Finishing the standing rigging, next step is the ratlines! Not one of my favorite steps. Decided to stage the whaleboats and am really pleased with the alignment. I've decided to add them last, thinking it would be easier to finish the running rigging without working around them. At this stage I plan on methodically going over the build and doing any touchup and cleaning before the ratlines. Fortunately, I already had finished the yards and boom. So, running rigging should move quickly. Will also start working on the display case. I love this build!!!!!!
  2. You might want to search the site for similar builds. Welcome and good luck.
  3. Here's an old chart I have. The quality of the copy is not very good; Hull Cream is not yellow! But it may provide some reference. May want to consider the colors used on whaleboats and Dory boats of that time period.
  4. Where are you located, it will make a big difference on cost.
  5. Have been using beeswax for rigging the past 40 years with no problems, it hasn't rotted and fallen apart. It was recommended to help preserve the rigging. As for it being acidic, I'm no chemist but I just did a search: Bee's wax is not acidic; it is primarily composed of esters of fatty acids and various long-chain alcohols. This composition means that bee's wax does not contain significantly acidic compounds, making it pH neutral and suitable for various applications, including cosmetics and preservation of artifacts. Wikipedia+2
  6. Welcome!
  7. Thanks everyone for the responses, they have been very helpful!
  8. The plans for my current build (Kate Cory) note the use of numerous "Bullseyes & Lanyards". Basically, all involving the Bowsprit standing rigging. I have no experience with these although they look easy enough to assemble. The plans are vague and provide little detail, essentially, two bullseyes joined by rope. Searched the internet and my books but can't find any specifics on how these are put together. Is there a standard or rule of thumb distance between the bullseyes? How many times does the rigging/rope loop through the bullseyes? These details, or lack of, drive me nuts! Any help is appreciated.
  9. Slow but steady progress. Finished the log pump and wanted to get as much done as possible on the masts prior setting them. Ready to start the standing rigging.
  10. A little detail not covered in the kit is that Kate Cory used two anchors as noted museum plan. Fortunately, I found two that are a close match on Bluejackets site. Finishing up the bowsprit detail and plan to install the masts this week. Once the main mast is set, I can finish the Log Pump, some clean-up and start the rigging. I found some scrap walnut boards at a local woodworker's shop and made the display base. Hopefully I have enough to make a matching display case.
  11. Bought these recently on Amazon, they were recommended by another modeler. So far, best set I have had! AM ARROWMAX Twist Mini Micro Drill Bits Set, 0.5mm-2.3mm, Size Marked,Titanium Coated High Speed Steel Jewelry Drill Bits, 3/32-Inch Shank, Hole Drilling Tool for DIY, Wood, Bead, Plastic (HSS Set B)
  12. Rich, I bought my first airbrush (Paasche) in 1973, primarily for plastic modeling. I've also owned Badger and Iwata. This is a topic which can result in information overload, what type of compressor, tank, tankless, Should I get a dual action, single action, gravity feed airbrush? How do I thin enamel, acrylic paints, etc.. When I started in wooden ship modeling (early 80"s) I was fairly experienced using an airbrush. So, no real learning curve. However, once enamel/lacquer-based paints were being replaced by acrylics, I found using acrylics more difficult to use. Personally, I have found I generally only use the airbrush for painting the hull, especially if there is a waterline involved. I have used it for bulwarks and deck structures simply because I didn't want to bother with a brush. When airbrushing the model, don't "underestimate" the amount of masking required! But, as others have pointed out, particularly with smaller scales, a good set of brushes can work just as well as airbrushing (prefer red sable brushes, still find some Floquil brushes on EBay). In terms of a good basic versatile dual action airbrush for ship modelling, my Badger 150 does the job. I have two compressors, 3gal pancake and dual fan w/tank.
  13. Have been finishing detail on the hull and deck. Temporarily set the masts to install the deadeyes, used the kit supplied chain plates which came out better than I expected. Almost finished with the Whaleboat Davits, Cranes and Bearer posts, a number of details still need to be added. Aligning the Davits and setting the Cranes to the correct height turned into a major task! Fortunately, I had finished the whaleboats in advance so I could use them as templates to set the height of the Davits and Cranes. Also, I needed to make sure there was enough clearance for the Davit Blocks. Seemingly endless adjustments! Oh, important point, the forward port davit for the waist whaleboat is on the outside of the bulwark. Regarding the Davit Blocks. Actually, all the blocks. According to the Museum plans Kate used wooden and iron stropped blocks, iron stropped were used as Davit Blocks. OK, I may be a little anal about details at times. But I think they add a nice detail. I trashed all the kit supplied blocks and replaced them with "wood" blocks from Styrene and iron stropped from Bluejacket. I'm pleased with the painting, still needs some touchup. I mixed my own enamel-based paints, scaled down.
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