coxswain

I have had another look at the belaying points for the main course buntlines and leechlines. The plan is a bit ambiguous. Lines 64, 65 and 66  point towards the poop deck barricade.
 

 
However a closer look shows the belaying points on the quarterdeck barricade in front of the main mast - not the poop in the rear as I had originally thought (and not as Petersson shows on the bitts).  Moreover the instruction book (p.23) shows the quarterdeck barricade assembly pointing at the forecastle rail which certainly doesn't help (I didn't think to take a photo of this).
Here is the quarterdeck barricade showing the belaying points.
 

 
I will see how this works out as the bitts behind the main mast are already crowded and adding another six lines would make it absurdly crowded.  The quarterdeck barricade is shown here in front of the mast.) This is how the bitts look now - all the lines that should be belayed there are now finished off.  I am not especially happy with the result, but it's adequate. A close look will show that I have cheated a bit on the rope coils - there are fewer coils than there are lines.  With all the other things going on around it I'm hoping no one will notice - and I'm not going to say anything. (I now see from the photos a couple of things need to be tidied up - unfortunately the photos show every fault.)
 

 
 

PS: If anyone has some advice regarding the unravelling of the thread mentioned in my previous post, please reply.

The anchors mad a nice transportable  project to take away with me. They proved far more time-consuming than I expected.
 
First, the two halves of the anchor stock must be glued together (top) .  Once glued, the stock must be sanded back to produce the shape shown (bottom). I used 80 glass paper to do most of the sanding, then 400 to finish.  Incidentally a nice join between two pieces of wood may be obtained by a coat of polyurethane, immediately wiped off with some absorbent paper, then snded while wet with 240 paper.  The dust goes into the cervices very nicely. When dry the whole thing may be finally sanded. Once all of this is done, a couple off coats of poly were applied and the 'iron' bands glued on
 

 
It turned out that the holes in the stocks provided for the anchors were too large.  Rather than use a wood filler (matching the wood is sometimes difficult), I used some of the walnut from which the stock was made. You can still see it, but the finish is not too bad.

 
This is how they have turned out.

As an experiment I had trialled the rope-walk provided in the kit using some scrap thread.  The three strands were first tied off at the end (you may just see the fine dark brown thread) and each strand pulled taught through the knot.  Then following directions, the three threads were rotated clockwise, eventually leaving what looked to be a reasonably respectable piece of rope.  Putting dilute PVA on each end and weighting one end while keeping the stuff from unravelling, I then left it overnight. Unfortunately once I removed the weight the next morning, most of it did begin to unravel as you may see. I had been temped before leaving it overnight to brush the whole lot with very dilute PVA as a preventative, but  this may cause problems when fitting the ropes to the anchors.
 
Advice is welcome.
 

 
 

line Making-off and coiling lines is proceeding slowly.  I have belatedly come across another small, unpleasant surprise. For line 72, a block is required at the foot of the foremast.  Access is difficult at this stage and for those who may also be caught out, here is a method of solving the problem.
 
Long lines are secured around the block with two overhand knots leaving one that may be gradually pulled shorter.  The alligator clips are very useful.  Shown is the smallest size I could find.

Tied off.....
 

.. lines pulled tight ...

...and excess trimmed. It worked quite well, though trimming the threads proved difficult and could have been better.  Fortunately the small bits of thread remaining will be on the bottom of the block when the line is finally secured.

 

Making off the various lines around the foredeck is now almost  finished. The lines made off to the timberhead are complete. As I wrote in my previous post I have left a couple of lines to magically disappear. The timberhead is crowded enough and I have again convinced myself that less is more.
 

Whoops - I just discovered that I deleted the view of the timberhead towards the bow. I will post another photo later.
 
The blocks for the bunt and leech lines were a bit of a problem. The lines are supposed to be threaded through the blocks with tack toggles on the end of the line. This I duly did - for the first one. Here is. the toggle.
 
 

However when threaded though the block and through all the other rigging blocks (a small nightmare), the block on the yard refused to seat properly because the toggle protruded too much.  Re-rigging it didn't bear thinking about so I left it, doing a bit of ex post adjustment with some subtle use of glue.  If you look closely you may see the toggle - at least it's better positioned than it was.  For the rest I used a simple knot instead of the toggle.
 

The lines made off to the forecastle rail really are a problem. By my count there are 16 (8x2) to be somehow accommodated. (See the rigging plan in a previous post, above.)  So far ten have been completed.  Remaining are 80, 81 and 85. These all lead from the main yards.  The following photos will show how the ten have been dealt with, and provide an indication of how the remaining lines will be made off.  Lines 80 and 81 will go to the relevant support timbers  and the coils will go in the same way as 78 (you have your answer Arthur). Line 85 is still a problem, but I think the coil may be fitted next to the outside support timbers. I have no idea if all of this is 'authentic' but at least it's neat - and, after all - it is only a model.
 

 


 

 
 

I think I have come across a minor error in the belaying plan - at least that's how I will treat it. The spritsail yard brace and the spritsail topsail yard brace are belayed at 78 and 77, respectively.
 

here are the belaying points shown below.

The spritsail topsail yard brace goes through the outside hole of the double block on its way to the belaying point; the other brace goes through the inside hole - see below  (or course this may be wrong - but it's too late now).

This way, when both are tied off, the two lines would foul each other. The line from the outside hole (77) would cross the line through the inside hole (78).  This does not seem to me to be an especially good idea.
 

If there is a reason for this please let me know - otherwise I will transpose the belaying points.
 
 
 
 
 

Hi again,
Thanks for your prompt reply – just before bed-time I guess! 
I too wanted to build Bellona – I have the AOTS book for her. And I had thought to build it from scratch. I started lofting the frames and everything. Then I put myself off, thinking of all the things I'd have to do from scratch that we take for granted with a kit (the stern carvings etc). So I resolved that kit bashing was more up my street. (Like you, I'm guessing – I'm semi-retired and am only prepared to push the envelope so far from what I enjoy doing best.) Then as I said, the difficulties with the frames for Vanguard/ Bellerophon has further made me retreat to a simpler modelling life.
If Amati ever do release Bellona – or if Jotika ever releases their planned 74, I may well make one of those... but that might necessitate adding a ship models 'wing' to the house first!
Enjoy the rest of your build, I'll follow with interest.
I haven't decided whether I'll publish a build log yet – I too lost my log, of HMS Dianna, with the forum crash.
All the best, Cal
 

I am speechless. Amazing work

Hi Doug,
I was thinking some more about Alan's suggestion of sanding the dark areas and restaining the light areas and it reminding me of having toured the Gibbard Furniture facility in Napanee many years ago when they were still in business. They were makers of furniture of the highest quality and they were especially famous for their incredible finishes. According to the person conducting the tour, this spot sanding process was the secret to their impeccable uniform finishes. I think they used fine steel wool, and as I recall they referred to the process as "hand zipping."  It might work for you.
 
David

Yes David, this is basswood.  I've been painting (other than decking) on previous models and it didn't bother me as much.  However my standards are increasing (always higher that my skill level unfortunately!) and I had high expectations when I woke up this morning.  I was so disappointed.  I've started a light sanding (Steve's suggestion) and it has helped already.  I'm treating this as a learning experience - seems there's lots of those in my builds!
  
As for your head-on 25 feet comment? - sorry I'd take your results any day - they're good.

I forgot to mention that using pre-stain will help before staining next time. 
Steve

Hi Doug,
Your planking looks nice, but I agree that the stain is not quite so successful. Are you using basswood for the planking? It always seems to be the most reluctant to take a stain evenly. I have always found finishing to be the hardest part of woodworking and it's not really much easier for models either.
 
I had a similar situation on the deck of my Constitution (basswood) and finally solved the problem by thinning paint until it was very thin and and then painting it on and wiping it off. It worked very much like a stain, but with just a bit more pigment, so it covered more consistently, but still gave the appearance of stain rather than paint. I also recall that I masked off the rest of the model and went at the deck with paint stripper in an effort to get it as "bleached" as possible before applying the thinned paint. I experimented with colour first, mixing various browns and yellows etc. It might be worth a try playing around on some test wood to see if if this might be a possible solution.
 
I also go through the port-starboard display debate with every model and every time I decide I have to make a switch, my standard by necessity seems to drop just a little. In the end the only really acceptable way to view my models is head-on only (and from about 25 feet away.)
 
David
 

I finished the starboard upper bulwark and I was OK with the result.  The caulking marker I used between planks was good on the edges but there was serious bleeding at the butt joints.
 

 
I wanted to see how ir would look after staining with Golden Oak.  Now I'm NOT OK.  I don't like the appearance at all.  I have to do something to make this better.  I wonder what?
 

 
 

Installing the gunport framing proceeded with only minor issues.  The 1st time I attached the template it was too high but I caught it using the cannon cutout.  
 

 
I wasn't sure from the instructions or other build logs how to frame the lintels - the instructions suggest glueing 2 3/16"x1/4" pieces together.  I ended up installing them in "stair-step" fashion so that the top of the gunport would be parallel (bow to stern axis) with the sill.

 
I trimmed the template to get the top of the transom marked on the stern.  

 
As I hoped the use of hardwood stern frames, pinned to the hull, proved to be very robust.  OI had no mishaps sanding the stern and sanding the hardwood did not prove to be at all difficult.  I did have some problems with the glue joints for the filler blocks holding.  When I first received my second-hand ship modelling library I decided to start reading "Plank-on Frame-Models"  by Harold Undersell.  Early in the volume he writes:
 
" ... I never leave anything to adhesive, but ever single item, no matter how small, is always pinned or dowelled. That is one of my pet obsessions."
 
At the time I thought that quite quaint and old-fashioned.  I'm reconsidering - perhaps it will become one of my obsessions given the experience I'm accumulating!
 
I trimmed the template again to the planking curve and compared it to the marks that I made by using a plank to give a fair run at the stern as outlined in the instructions.  

 
Some more sanding and I'm almost there!

Hi hamilton,  I read of your injury.  I'm scarred on my hands from my various encounters with the blades.  I probably should stay away from scalpels - sounds like they cut deep!
 
I'm just at the point to starting to sand my hardwood stern frames - I'll soon know whether the strength vs sandability trade-off pays off!
 
 
 
 

Chapter 4 - stern framing
I'm looking forward to seeing how the hardwood stern frames work out.  Because of all the comments about the fragility of the structure while it is being built I decided to pin the frames as well as gluing them.
 
I used a drill press and a 1/16" bit to drill through the frame.  Then I clamped it to the filler block and ned a hand drill to drill a continuation of the hole through the bulkhead.  the pin was a finishing nail trimmed to length.
 
 
An added bonus (besides the expected strength) is that it hold the frame in position very nicely while the glue sets.
 


 
When I got to the 'B' frame I discovered that I must have damaged it on the sander because the bottom cornet was thinned down.
 

 
Two simple choices - make a new one or fix this one.  The fix was easiest and it turned out just fine.



 
Added the 'C' frames which I'd cut double width when I fabricated them.
 


The template is attached to the frames so the gunport sills can be located.
 


 
The sills are attached

 

Bloody but unbowed I continue with the battle - sorry a bit melodramatic!
 
Back to fairing the bulwarks structures.  I cut a 1/8" slot and a 3/32" slot in a piece of scrap to gauge the thickness of the sills and lintels. It made it easy to find high spots that needed a bit more sanding.

 
And after some time I got to this stage.






 
Checked the fairing at deck level and the top of the bulwarks with a pre-bent planking strip.


 
The photo above convinced me to take a bit more off the 1st bulkhead extension - it lies closer now.
 

 
I believe everything is now within reasonable tolerances so I am ready to go on.
 

He who breaks and walks away lives to model another day.

Good Morning All,
 
Thanks for your comments and likes everyone, and zappto I agree, it was a beautiful ship, with a very long and lean look.
 
A little progress to report - I have started work on the deck details. The stanchions for the forward rail are done, but not installed yet. Then I proceeded to the railing on the quarterdeck and realized that its height depends upon the height of the stanchion on the small platform in front of the quarterdeck, and that stanchion's height depends upon the placement of the platform so I needed to install it first. This of course led me to realize that I needed to install the cannon that sits under the platform on each side before the platform goes in, otherwise I'd never accomplish the rigging. So I set out to assemble the cannons.
 
For some reason, there is no provision in this kit for the rigging of the cannons, (perhaps because they rest under a platform that runs the length of the main deck? - I don't know.) In any event, I've rigged all the ones that are on the main deck, with blocks left over from my Constitution and have installed four of them, and the small platforms that extend from the quarterdeck.
 
One thing I hate doing is making the little hooks that are supposed to be used to attach the blocks to the eyebolts. I can never get them small enough, they always look terrible and they always come unhooked, so this time, I just seized the blocks to the eyebolts. It works for me, and the cannons will be only partially visible in any case.
 
You can see my start at the details for the deck. For the gratings, I tried something that seems to work quite well. I assembled the grating to the approximate size and then I glued it to a piece of heavy black paper. This gave it considerable stability and will work well on this kit, because the gratings just get glued to the deck; there is no actual opening below them, so the black paper will be effective. I just have to remember when installing them "black side down, David"
 
So that's pretty much it for now.
 
David

The paint looks good, David.  I can't paint worth a damn...it's why I generally build with natural wood only!

Good Morning All,
Well, I've finally finished painting the hull. This took quite a bit more time than I anticipated. My problem was the line at the top of the wales where the black meets the yellow. The lower line where the black meets the white was easy to tape and achieve a decent result, but not so easy at the top of the wales. The wales is thicker than the planking above it, with a ledge. I wanted the top of the ledge to be black, not yellow, but taping to the 90 degree transition was very hard to do. I must have made four or five attempts and no matter how carefully I thought I was taping, I always ended up with an unacceptable result. It occurred to me that if i could tape flat on the yellow, just a fraction of an inch above the transition point it would be easier to get a clean tape line and perhaps it wouldn't be noticeable to the eye that the line was just barely higher than the top of the wales. So I ran a slightly dull pencil along the top of the wales and it placed a parallel line on the yellow, above the wales  barely 1/16 of an inch or so. I taped to this line and it worked like a charm. The eye cannot easily detect what I have done and the result, while not perfect, is acceptable.
 
We're off to a family reunion this weekend. You know what they say - "Family isn't a word, it's a sentence!" If I survive, I'll be back with more updates.
 
David

Another update on the build. The inside planking on the bulwarks have now been placed with no real difficulty, other than I used all my bulldog clips just to hold it in place whilst the glue was drying. After that it was a matter of putting on the false keel and stem post. Once dry its on to the second layer of planking. I'm not sure how that will go as it's my first attempt at a bluff bow ( I think that's what it's called). As they say if you don't try it won't get done!

Slow and steady as they say! I have been slowly putting on the first layer of planking. As mentioned earlier I've settled on the "boiling the kettle" approach which has been a godsend....I think I should have enough of the first layer of planking after destroying a few when using the crimpers. I should have the first layer of planking finished in the next week, time permitting.
I have now finished the companionway and am pretty happy with the end result. All I need to do now is a very light sanding and a final coat of satin finish and I can move on to other fittings. 
 

A little bit more on the companionway. 

Whilst waiting for the glue to dry on the on the keel and bulkhead frames I thought I should start on some of the deck furniture. The quality of some of the furniture is pretty good but I thought some of it I would try my hand on doing it from solid wood rather than the kit plywood (eg. the tiller and barrel base). I've never done this before but, hey, I can only botch it up and try again! I did complete the cargo hatch as the grating supplied was very good. Below are some pictures of the reasonably simple process of putting it all together. I've already put one coat of matt satin finish and will give it a slight sanding before another coat is put on. I've also started on the companionway. When building this I realised that the walls would need some bracing whilst building it and hence I have put some bracing on the inside of the companionway....perhaps over engineered however it is very solid and ready for the outer planking. The kit provides silver ash strips for this but am thinking that I may use walnut planking which I have left over from my Mermaid build......just thought it would contrast nicely to the silver ash decking.

So, after a couple of very chilly days in Hobart I've started in earnest on the Norfolk. Below are a few photos of the start of the build. I must say that the laser cuts are very precise and needed very little in terms of sanding to fit in the bulkheads to the keel. I only had to do some very minor sanding for one or two to slot in nicely. The bow fillers were a little more work and , although not completely sanded I am happy with the way they are turning out.