Mirabell61
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Everything posted by Mirabell61
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Thank you very much, Javelin, John and Phil, for your good advice with the making of fake wire. I`ll keep that in mind...., but meantime can also live with the greyish 0,7mm polyester rope, also used for the davits rigging. I`ve just made the infeeds of the coal chutes for the bunkers, and acc. to Andy`s post (#137) and my post (138) they are situated (dryfit) on the boats deck near the funnel. Stb. side is a closed chute cover, and port side the cover is open with view into the chute. They may be shifted a bit, when the tube connections to the watertank are made Nils cover for the coal chute closed and open on port side
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Thanks John, your words made me smile this morning, but who knows, perhaps someone one day will show me how it goes with wire ropes for these small winches. The stays will be of tin galvanized steel rope. Nils
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Update Made the rigging for the boats and for the cargo derricks. There are also hand-winches for the boats. The fastening points for the stays are set, I`m waiting for some ordered workable bottleneck-screws to arrive. The bridge still needs to be done. Nils all holds have supporting brackets The cargo derricks are rigged the boats have their own hand-winches (two per boat) the derrick winches are rigged
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beautiful work Valeriy, I like the reinforcement brackets at the mid-island front area... Nils
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Thank you very much Richard, for looking in intensively...., and for your kind comment yes, I use brass quite often as this is a nice material to solder Nils
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Thanks for your input here Keith, it looks like this has been an interesting sort of study for metal-plate riviting on a not further known or named dummy hull, in order to try out the process. The copper-plates seem to be real rivited and additionally soldered afterwards Nils
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thank you very much Javelin, I love old steam ships, and of course the riviting detail, knowing that it may be slightly oversized for that scale, but the rivited hull would loose its characteristic look, which I I like to see on the model. It shows up quite well, even through the painting. The riviting must be made out, also when the model is viewed in it`s casing from a meter away or so... Nils
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Keith, I see you`re gonna do it in the approved handcraft way (hand held jig saw) etc. I`m myself 75 years now and I still love scratch-building by doing the frames in this way. Will stay tuned... I wish you much fun in building the lovely Cangarda Nils
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Update today the stanchions for the hold-sides are done, the first fairlead for the mooring ropes and in combination with a heavy twin-bollard on deck Nils the guiderails for the rudder chain run alon the hold sides, behind the stanchions the Panama fairlead is directly behind the through lead opening in the bulwark bulwark outside view, will probably paint the fairlead black in combination twin-bollard with Panama fairlead mooring rope ( 2 mm polyester) for aft portside welldeck
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Beautiful recovery-work Javelin, after the polyester /glasfibre objection. I can feel with you for all the patience in doing all the sanding work, great look now Nils
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Keith, that`s a good point, funny I was just thinking the same this morning..... the common procedure is now to ask myself a) will the objection be looking at me for all times after ? or b) can I live with it ? (nobody is perfect) If the answer is "a" then it`s a candidate for the bin, or to do it over again for a second run. Much is stored in the box "experience", so that something likewise hopefully does`nt occur again, but I would`nt build the same ship twice. Nils
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thanks for your word Rick, yes, I was much afraid that the cutting out could possibly spoil the sight. I also thought that it would have been of advantage to cut into the bulwarks before they get mounted, but it is not easy to predict exactly where the edge (bulwark to deck edge) will be laying, with freeing ports flush with the deck, at the time the bulwarks were made and mounted. I notice from many ship kits with laser cut panel-parts, that those cut-outs are exactly in place from the beginning onwards, provided the hull is built correctly. Nils
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Smart idea Mobile 1, for putting transp. blue foil to the casing sides below the waterline, good job, the illution of water in the casing is great Nils
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Update cutting out the bulwarks, the last three of 12 freeing ports, 8 mm square, inserting the frames and stiffening out of the inner bulwarks with stanchions. This is what I was a bit anxious about, after all its just getting started, pulling through and now I`m pleased with the result. I had extra bought a new set of keyhole files and some carving chissels. The ship has to be tilted into the correct position on my knees, and carefully avoiding contact distortion with the fragile railing sections during the process. Al uneccessary, removable superstructure parts, masting and hold sections are layed aside for doing so. Before filing out the roughf drilled holes to square close fit, the metal plating bits have to be removed from the outer bulwarks with a sharp chissel. Next will be to cut the holes for the mooring ropes and to place the Panama-fairleads directly behind the bulwarks and place the deck-mooring bollards Nils cutting through the plating metal, removing the small square parts, masking, taping and positioning of the freeing ports. inserting and glueing in the freeport-frames stanchions for stiffening out the bulwarks. the freeports lower side is flush with the deck
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nice work Valeriy Nils
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good looking superstructure Javelin, the windowframes are nice and look like precise cuts Nils
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interesting project Javelin, I`ll be following the progress.... Nils
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