Mirabell61
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Everything posted by Mirabell61
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Thank you very much for your nice comment B.E., much appreciated I just put on the bow- and stern depth markings and the Lloyds Register "Plymsoll" marking. Nils stern in normal lettering bow in roman lettering
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intermediate session after experiencing the make of the boats for 5 Elbe in scale 1:50, and for the liner Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse in scale 1:160, I needed boats in scale ( H0 ) 1:87 for this project. I documented the building sequences for my own backup anyhow and thought it might be interesting for my fellow builders, whoever may require selfmade boats in special scales. So I`m sharing this intermediate session to whom it may concern. I still had some leftover two-component resin to allow the pruduction (material wise) of 3 identical double-ender lifeboats for Ergenstrasse. It would have been total 4 boats if I had not forgotten by mistake to mix enough hardener component there. Now my resin is used up and 3 boats will also do. Nils wooden halfplug fake clinkering application of half plug (double-ender) boxing for the silicon mold. Tapered filler logs to save quantity of silicon material used setting of the halfplug into the mold and filling in silicon, use seperation wax spray for both plug and mold silicon mold for casting the boats from this is the second plug for the inner boat shapes, to be inserted into the silicon mold. Use temp. spacers for checking wallthicknesses and position of the plug. (fixing withe needles) Two-compont resin into the mold with inserted plug. Use seperation spay wax for both plag and mold before casting result after the resin is cured and the part removed from the mold ( inside view) outside view persons maximum capacity check when seated preparing for cutting out the cockpit deck area glueing 2 halves together cut out cockpit cover. The boats length is 108 mm without the rudder the open boat (without outer painting and rudder) is completed there will also be some oars for the boat
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very nice build Rick Nils
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Thank you very much Yves, I`m still working on the plug for the clinkered lifeboats .For the lapstraking I`m using two-layer stripe foil before cutting them. Otherwise they would`nt show the lapstrake appeal after painting. Boats in scale 1:87, taking up (in scale) 15 persons or so could not be found, so I`m doing them myself Nils some srap ply layers were glued to a block to shape the raw plug
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Update Started with the painting of the hull. The paint sticks on quite well together with the used promoting bounding primer for shiny aluminium. The lettering (names, homeport) is not yet attached but already printed in white letters on self adhesive black background foil (cut out patches). I also started with the ships boats, because they are double-ender lifeboats, It will only require 1/2 a boat as a plug for doing the silicon mould. They will be cast in resin. Each two halves will be glued together, (total 8 halves), trimmed and 4 boats then brought to final shape. I shall try to get some appropriate decals in transparent with white lettering for the front and aft depth markings, and for the Plymsoll mark midships Nils the sub-waterline is "African red" silk, acrylic paint, the upper hull is silk black, a silicone based black paint used for iron stoves and thear ductwork the lettering printed on black foil (for cutting out patches) preparing to make 1/2 a plug for the silicon mold for the ships boats that will be cast in resin afterwards
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Right there Yves, Thanks for your nice compliment it is so long ago that the two kits you mentioned were available from Billing Boats. (thear great time) I see offers for these rare old kits now and then on Ebay. It was also a time where there were no laser-cutten wood parts, and the good old jigsaw was used. I remember that for the Bohuslän I did`nt have the money for the seperate Billings fittings-kit, so all the appropriate fittings were self made. Nils
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thanks for you comment Yves, I`m using toothwheels of old mantel clocks for poncing (rivets). The handles are made from old paint brush handles. Regards to your brother and I wish him much luck and fun with the Hjejlen build Nils if you look close, you`l notice different tooth sizes and by sloting the circumferal wheel I get even 2- and 3 fold "rivet rows. The 2-fold I used on the Ergenstrasse plating
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many thanks for looking in Craig, the superstructure details will have to be developed as I get to the appropriate sequences, I have an Idea though.... The masts will be tapered soldered and from brass tube material Nils
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many thanks Gary, The plating is almost complete, I`m putting on the last few on the port side upper bulwark tomorrow and am pleased that my aluminium foil roll did last. I have as an alternative tried out a special bonding primer spray for shiny aluminium surfaces and the results are quite satisfying so far. It usually would have been zinc-cromate primer like the aircraft industry had in use, but that is toxic and as far as I know its not being distributed any more. The next pics will be with the painted Hull in a few days Nils
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Many thanks for you`re compliment John.... I just came from the copy shop and placed an order for the shipnames and homeport (aft rounding and forecastle sides). The lady said it would be best to print in white on black self adhesive foil. See what comes out when finished... The pics are showing the cutting of the 30 x 50 mm plating pannels with the paper table-guillotine, while the siliconed paper protection foil is still on. The gluefilm is acetat and it sticks like hell. A tool is actually required to remove the plating again Nils
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many thanks Phil, I would be pleased to see other metal plated model ships at the forum. I wish you much fun and success with your projects in planing Nils
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Update getting along with the plating job. My worries have calmed down, looks like there will still be enough foil on the roll Nils the waterline is marked again here, to be seen for Andy, the bottom is nearly flat
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Thank you very much Andy and John, The more feedback I get, the more I learn about these old steamers... Andy yes you`re right, I was too fixed on the centerkeel of the Ferris type ships (where I have the frameplan from). The aspect of less draft without that keel allowing increased tonnage load makes sense. I can imagine there is a slight disadvantage without a keel standing out for lateral less corse holding reason. I decided to leave the version I have as is, but shall allways carry the "Andy-Version" in mind for the future Keep these good comments of yours coming in, they are much appreciated. John Thanks very much for your comparison scetches of bar- and flat keels, this rounds up the design versions very well Nils
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Andy, many thanks for your comment.... I appreciate very much that you know so much of the design of these lakers. I`m not sure if I understood you right there, do you mean the ships bottom along the keelline should be flat, and flush with the hull skin ? The keel in centerline is in the moment only standing out about 1,5 mm, wich I would`t mind about. Bilge keels and center keel are horizontal at the same level. Nils
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Update I started with the metal plating today.... It will take a few days and my 0,125 mm thick self adhersive aluminium foil roll is coming to the end. lets see how far I get with it... Nils
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Many thanks for your comments B.E. and John, B.E. the idias for solving some of the tricky sequences come with the progress.... John Yes you`re right, I do`nt know either, as I have no pic on this detail from the movie. Thanks for your detail showing the make / function of the compression stoppers. Great input, I`ll save this for another ocasion and they shoud`nt be difficult to make in brass or so, even the swivel handle and the locking pin
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