Mirabell61

Have to do the first two and the last two gunport doors, will try to get the hinges functional working...., here first try (the 1 mm round bar shall be cut to fit later on)
 
 
 

the small parts from the etched sheet are soldered to the 1 x 2 mm Tube, then cut off...
 

here also the Counter hinge part that goes to the hull above the gunport, the small Pivot rod is 1 mm
 

will AC glue the Long hinge parts to the gunport door (have to do the doors first and fit them in...)
 
 
 
Nils

the first of the four gunport doors is attached, functional with hinges
 
 
 
 
 

I let the Pivot rod go through both hinges, this gives more stability to the function, although I was intending to cutawy the rod in the middle space
 

here open...
 
In one of Danny`s last Posts (Vulture 1:48) he mentioned the scuppers for the Manager pit. I had not been Aware that there had to be some although it`s quite Logical to catch the dirt and mud on the anchor cable behind the hawse hole, and for rinsing reasons.
I set the brass tube scuppers in about 5 degree declining downward from Managing pit (deck) to the upper Portion of the wale, above that Little decor
 
 
 
 
 
Nils

Finished up making the wire strops for the top deadeys, usual pins and excess wood making up the jig.  Went with a slightly shorter version than my first mock up as some hooks from a 'Badger' photo-etch kit I'd ordered last year were used (unfortunately none of the supplied PE strops fitted the 3mm deadeyes).  Once bent a spot of CA was used to close any remaining gaps and a coat of paint applied.  These were then epoxied into the tops so the top mast shroud tensions don't cause any knock-on complications.  Completed one set of futtock shrouds to see if everything would work OK before continuing, and pretty happy with the results.
 
Given that I'm planning on taking Snake to the Connecticut model ship show, I'm only going to finish up the other futtock shrouds and various small repair/touch-up jobs for now.  Am planning to start on the various spars once thats complete and get these finished before installing any of the top and topgallant masts as these would be an accident waiting to happen I suspect.
 

Ferit, Eamon, B.E., Timmo - cheers guys!
 
Still proceeding at a snails pace.  Following picture for the benefit of other Snake builders.  The block on the foremast for the maintopmast preventer stay could very easily interfere with catharpins on foremast shrouds, felt a bit lucky that I didn't run afoul of this, the positioning of the futtock stave is important as the block couldn't move any higher because of the mast cheeks.  One more catharpin to go on foremast (which I'm remaking again because it didn't fit....)
 

Hamilton - Cheers mate.  I don't have Lees, Lever indicates that when used, the cross catharpins would be installed in addition to the catharpins going athwartship, basically forming an 'X' so that the starboard foremost shroud is catharpined to the aftmost larboard shroud and vice versa.  If I ever build HMS Surprise, she will have to have cross-catharpins  .  I'm growing to love the Lever's Young Sea Officers sheet anchor and am following the order outlined there so far.  
 
On your second question, I'm probably going to go with the wire and use epoxy again to secure them, but as usual will reserve final judgement until necessary.
 
Quick additional update on progress...main mast catharpins are all on.  Pederson has a nice picture showing that these would have been lashed to the futtock stave with thinner line.  Its not really practical at this scale, so I sort of got thesame result by threading the eye with two pieces of thread to try and keep the catharpin in line with the shroud.  Pretty happy with the way things turned out (and not a pin or rubber band in sight).
 

Cheers Mike, sorry I missed your kind comment - thanks mate!
 
No real progress of sorts, but a few pics of the Snake's first voyage to the NE Join Clubs Ship Model Show (There are some great pics at the following link).  It was great to meet some folks face to face and see some really nice models and some in person from logs right here on MSW.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4939-northeast-joint-clubs-ship-model-show-conference/page-2#entry191448
 
Sjors/Mobbsie/Pierre/Klaas - You should check out the pics of HMS Ardent, I think it was bashed from the Agamemnon kit but was heavily modified - it won best in show and was pretty impressive!
 
Hopefully with a bit of work in the garden done I can get back to a bit of modelling in near future.
 
MSW group photo, Chuck in front and me lurking in the back

 
Snake (very humbly) on display - the big boys are in the background

 
Chuck's stall, fantastic stuff that I will no doubt be using in the future, had to share a picture of his lamp kits

Jeers:
 
Although topmasts are pretty much ready to go on, the jeers have been nagging at me.  These seem to be pretty awkward to get in, especially once the topmast shrouds are in place so I've decided to install these before the proceeding further.  Getting the right length required quite bit of trial and error.  As always, suggestions welcome.  For some reason photos came out particularly badly tonight, so apologies in advance.
 
Block double stopped and kept in place with few drops of GS-Hypo.

 
Loop added to provide correct 'length', the three stands then seized near the top of the block.

 
Loose ends trimmed, and additional seizing put on.  I did this in accordance with the Grenado AOTS diagram (i.e. unserved), although it seems that these were also commonly served.  Frankly I didn't have the patience to attempt that...but suspect that the method could work just the same.

 
Mocked up the installation to check again length is appropriate.  There is not much room for error here, and it took multiple attempts to get length correct.  Looks OK to me.

 
Jeers will be lashed to the mast cleat on opposite side, this again is just a temporary mock up to prove it works.

Have to do the first two and the last two gunport doors, will try to get the hinges functional working...., here first try (the 1 mm round bar shall be cut to fit later on)
 
 
 

the small parts from the etched sheet are soldered to the 1 x 2 mm Tube, then cut off...
 

here also the Counter hinge part that goes to the hull above the gunport, the small Pivot rod is 1 mm
 

will AC glue the Long hinge parts to the gunport door (have to do the doors first and fit them in...)
 
 
 
Nils

Hair Brackets
 
The Hair Bracket is an extension of the upper cheek, and continues it on to the top of the stem.
 
I made a card template of it's shape and cut it from the same stock I used for the rest of the cheeks. The bracket starts off quite thin where it joins with the cheek, but widens considerably as it rises :
 

 
A finished bracket with the blank for the starboard side on the left :
 

 
Considerable work was involved in adding the moldings and shaping the scroll. I'd have liked to have done better with the scroll, but I was at the limit of what I could achieve with Swiss Pear - it's too soft for really detailed carving :
 

 
The port side bracket dry-fitted :
 

 
  Danny

Have to do the first two and the last two gunport doors, will try to get the hinges functional working...., here first try (the 1 mm round bar shall be cut to fit later on)
 
 
 

the small parts from the etched sheet are soldered to the 1 x 2 mm Tube, then cut off...
 

here also the Counter hinge part that goes to the hull above the gunport, the small Pivot rod is 1 mm
 

will AC glue the Long hinge parts to the gunport door (have to do the doors first and fit them in...)
 
 
 
Nils

Have to do the first two and the last two gunport doors, will try to get the hinges functional working...., here first try (the 1 mm round bar shall be cut to fit later on)
 
 
 

the small parts from the etched sheet are soldered to the 1 x 2 mm Tube, then cut off...
 

here also the Counter hinge part that goes to the hull above the gunport, the small Pivot rod is 1 mm
 

will AC glue the Long hinge parts to the gunport door (have to do the doors first and fit them in...)
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 32
 
 
 
Today I started a Little bit on the anchor System, fitted two rollers under the forecastle deck, to return the Messenger cable without much friction (will Show later on when the cables get rigged)
 
 
 

I am planing for the anchor cables to go right down through the gundeck main hatch, and to the cargo floor, to be coiled and tied on top of the cargo Barrels. There is not much hight left but I think it will do for several rounds of coiled (tied) cable
 

 

this is the smaller anchor behind the main one,
 
 

in the foreground the larger anchor (6 raps around the stick)
 

 
 

the gundeck capstan with 2 stopper clinks, (simple Version)
 

the foreward riding bitts
 
 
 
 
Build log part 33 to follow....
 
Nils

Thank you for your interest in the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
Next steps are mast and top fabrication.  Key points include:
 
>>> Masts were turned from oversize dowels to provide material for the sq. sections at the tops
>>> Upper mast sections were shaped using a disk sander/chisels
>>> Cross trees and fore top framing were fabricated from laminated stripwood
>>> Cross trees and fore top were dry fitted to upper mast sections during fabrication
>>> Fore top coaming was formed from 1/32" x 1/8" basswood stripwood using a male/female former (illustrated)
>>> Fore top fabrication based on design developed from contemporary ship model plans
>>> Buntline blocks were fitted to the fore top per Rigging Set Up Lists
>>> Base for fore lower topsail yard strut was fitted to the fore top per Rigging Set Up Lists
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
1st the spars.  Key points include:
 
>>> Studding booms and studding irons were added (not shown on original plans)
>>> Spar design sketches were prepared using parabolic camber
>>> Spars were turned from birch dowels using a Jet mini-lathe
>>> Spars were turned using fine sanding sticks
>>> A digital caliper is a great tool for checking diameter during turning
>>> Rigging ironwork was a combination of Britania castings (Bluejacket) and silver brazed brass fittings (see photo)
>>> Design of rigging ironwork based on contemporary rigging plans
>>> Initial spar outfit based on Rigging Setup Lists
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is rigging planning / setup.  1st step is to develop a "Standing and Running Rigging Table" in a similar form to that found in Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging (1794).  The table lists each rigging line, size, color, fittings, etc.  Data is taken from the plans and compared to data from other ships.  Rigging lines, chains, blocks, deadeyes, etc. are sized based on standard rigging materials I have in stock (note that I was unable to post a sample).
 
2nd step is developing rigging setup lists where rigging lines, blocks, and fittings are assigned to individual spars for pre outfit installation prior to mounting aloft.  Lists are prepared for the hull, bullwarks, masts, and individual spars.  A sample is shown below:
 
Fore Upper Topsail Yard
 
(2) .015” x 1/16” brass bands (parrel hinges)
(1) .015” x 1/16” brass strip & 1/32” brass tube (parrel assembly)
(3) 1/16” Bristol board yard bands
(2) Drill holes for (2) yard sheaves (topgallant sheets)
(2) Studding boom quarter iron
(2) 3/32” Eyebands
(2) Studding boom irons
(20) Small eyebolts (jackstays)
(2) .020” Brass rod (jackstays)
(2) 3/32” Brass split rings w .015” black line (foot ropes)
(2) Small eyebolts w .015” black line (Flemish horses)
(2) Medium eyebolts w 3.5mm D blocks (topgallant sheets & upper topsail downhauls)
(2) 3.5mm S blocks (upper topsail downhauls)
(2) Medium eyebolts w .010” black line (loose servings) (upper topsail yard lifts)
(2) .015” black line 2” w 4mm S blocks (upper topsail yard brace pendants)
 
The following picture illustrates initial pre outfit based on these setup lists.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
As I completed the hull and hull outfit, I started to examine the masts, spars, and rigging.  After consultation with a number of master builders at the USS Constitution Ship Modelers Guild; I decided to fit a full fore top in lieu of the cross trees shown on the original plans.  Key points include:
 
>>> Full fore top more typical on fully rigged ships
>>> Cross trees more typical in schooner rigged vessels
>>> Curved fore top provides improved clearance for rotating yards/sails when tacking 
>>> New fore top design based on drawings of other contemporary vessels
>>> New fore top sized to suit original cross trees
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
The following pictures document the completion of hull and deck outfit.  Future posts will address planning, fabrication, rigging setup, and installation of masts, spars, standing and running rigging.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
Work continues on completing the deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Two boats were fitted (my decision vs. one shown on the plans) 
>>> Boats were fabricated from laminated basswood around a CL bulkhead
>>> Boat interiors were not hollowed out or detailed
>>> After painting, boats were dowelled and lashed in place on the forward house
>>> Anchors were fabricated and lashed in place
>>> Anchor chains were fitted to the anchors and windlass
>>> Forward and main house were glued in place
>>> Forward bell was fitted to the Sampson post
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
With the deck houses complete, lets continue with the deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Fiferails were built up from stripwood
>>> Fiferail stanctions were Bluejacket castings
>>> Forward fiferail left loose (2 pieces) for installation after completion of fore lower yard lift and fore lower topsail sheet tackles
>>> 2 deck pumps fitted to permit pumping out P/S of keel and for redundency (1 shown on plans)
>>> 2 water casks fitted based on contemporary practice (not shown on plans)
>>> Water casks were planked over basswood plugs
>>> Belaying pins (brass) were chemically treated and installed
 
As noted, I feel free to add to plan details based on contemporary practice where I see something missing.  After all, most ship model plans are only reconstructions.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

A set of tiny cleats on Kieth's build log intrigued me regarding how difficult would it be to make a couple for the pilot cutter.
 
The first task is choosing the right approach, I prefer to have a large enough piece of material that I can hold it in my hand while using files because I can feel the work being done.
 
I started by cutting a 5mm strip off the end of a strip of boxwood that was extra from the block making
 

 
The first cleat vanished as the saw completed the cut through the wood and I knew that it would be faster to make another than the futile endeavor to look for the one that took off. This first one was made by working the bottom sides first, then partially shaping the topside before cutting it off the bulk
 

 
On to version 2, this one I began in the more conventional way of shaping the top first using a rectangular needle file with a squared safe edge, the safe edge is very useful and I put it on the one side with a sharpening stone.
 

 

 
I clamped a small wooden clamp on the end so that when the saw cut off the cleat from the main block it was captive for the next operation.
 

 
Here the small cleat is next to the hinge on the companionway door for size comparison in scale this cleat would be 1.5 inches long by 3/8ths wide
 

 
and next to the 10 inch brass cleat on the deck.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Hello friends,

I am unfortunately somewhat extremely busy at present.
But the next report is nearly finished

Bye for now

The machine work on the sails is done. Next on to the hand sewing.
 

 

I have made the sail templates to make sure it all fits, next job is to make the sails and see if I can get them to work the way I want them to.
 
Even though the sails are just cardboard it looks magnificent, I think it is going to look brilliant under sail.
 

 

 

 
I am hoping this pic will give a good idea of it's presence in a room
 

 

I was dreading the hand sewing that would be required to attach the bolt ropes to the sails so I thought about it and decided it was worth trying to do them on the machine with a zig zag stitch.
 
I tried and failed a few times on scrap sail fabric, the main problem was that the machine process seems to stretch the fabric a little while the rope does not stretch, result, puckering right along the edge of the sail.
 
After some thought I decided to try a wider zig zag stitch that would reach completely across the rope without stitching through it. This worked beautifully and because the zig zag just encases the bolt rope I can just draw it through the stitching until the sail pucker is gone. It worked a treat.
 

 
Unfortunately I have ran out of cotton with two tops'ls to go and I have yet to stitch the guides for the lazy jacks into the sails. I figure I will pin a cord to the sail where I want the guides to be and stitch it to the sail with a tighter zig zag stitch. Then I can just pull a small amount through and create a loop at intervals up the sails for the lazy jacks to go through. Again I need more cotton to do this so the sail maker has gone home for the day.
 
I have also made the mast hoops.
 

 
I used up all the 0.5mm brass wire I had and got 16 hoops per mast which should put one every 22mm. I need more wire for the tops'ls.
 
 
I made the hoops by wrapping untempered wire around a steel bar of the correct diameter and then using pliers I twisted the ends of the wire together through 180 degrees and then cut the tails about 1.5mm outside the twist to form two interlocking hooks.
 
 

I have started a job on the side that will run in conjunction with the main construction work.This is that of the figurehead.There are differences between museum model and the kit.The main one being there are two 'characters' behind the lion.I say characters because I am still uncertain as to what they are They remind me very much of the 'purple' thingy on Matti's Vasa build .However these affect the shape of the prow considerably and I will need to produce this trio of carvings to be able to determine the prow shape.
Some good news is that the museum model's Lion is tailless unlike the one on the kit plans and it is not clutching an emblem also shown on the plans.It is a nice change that research actually simplifies a design .Anyway I chose to take a copy of the Lion shown on the plans and use this,just omit tail and emblem,as it will be far more convincing than my freehand drawing attempts.The copy was glued onto a piece of European box of suitable thickness.
I first milled the slot for the prow,but leaving a small section at the feet.This will be removed later when the bulk of the shaping is done,it simply serves to keep a little strength for now while the rough work is done.The profile was cut using a combination of the miller,large scalpel and burrs.The result in the pics is from about 8 hours work!!.
The very thin wafer at the mouth will hopefully be the tongue when finished
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel