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Richard44

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    Springwood, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia

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  1.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
  2.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: DS Børøysund 1908 by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD - Norwegian Excursion Steamer
  3.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: DS Børøysund 1908 by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD - Norwegian Excursion Steamer
  4.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: Neptune by RdK - Scale 1:100 - CARD - Spanish pirate galleon from Roman Polanski's movie "Pirates"
  5.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: DS Børøysund 1908 by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD - Norwegian Excursion Steamer
  6.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
  7.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
  8.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: DS Børøysund 1908 by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD - Norwegian Excursion Steamer
  9.    Richard44 reacted to a post in a topic: DS Børøysund 1908 by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD - Norwegian Excursion Steamer
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  11.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Part VIII: Building V108 - Miscellaneous Bits
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  19. Richard44 started following Glue and Part VIII: Building V108 - Miscellaneous Bits
  20. Richard44
    Morning all. There's no build log for my model of the WW1 German torpedo boat, V108. Various factors conspired against me doing this so all I have is a few photos of the completed model. Chris Coyle presented a tutorial on card building using the V108 as the subject. The designer, Digital Navy, allowed the kit to be freely distributed to MSW members and though it is no longer available on the Digital Navy website it can still be downloaded here. I had built several card models but only waterline models, so I decided to try for a full hull, though Chris in his tutorial only builds a waterline V108. It's still a learning curve for me with card models, but my V108 turned out reasonably well with some new techniques being tried (eg thread railings). Cheers
  21.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Glue
  22.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Glue
  23. Richard44
    Probably referring to common white carpenter's glue, PVA, poly vinyl acetate.
  24. Richard44
    I thought that might be the case, but you only find out after you've bought the kit. Whereas Philipp more or less suggests finding out before hand.
  25. Richard44
    How do you do this? I could have easily missed something, but I've looked at the Orel website and at some of the models and couldn’t see any reference as to the designer.
  26. Richard44
    Wow. Very, very different to the Nautilus in the Walt Disney movie. Cheers Edit. Should have added this image.
  27. Richard44
    I'm with Keith on this. Use the existing pieces, but before committing, check how much you need to remove where the pieces aren't quite in alignment - it looks to be about 1mm or so. Dry fit a couple of the frames to see if the reduced height of the keel (assuming you do sand the lower/upper edges of the keel) affects their fit. If it looks like everything will be more or less "off", then a new keel from ply would be the answer. Also, I've noticed that you wrapped everything in cling film while glueing and as you have found out, this can obscure what's happening with the glueing. You only need the cling film if there is a chance of accidentally glueing another piece to the two you are joining. You didn't need to use the cling film that shows in the following images. Cheers
  28. Richard44 started following Chopper Lesson Learned
  29. Richard44
    Micha, For what it's worth, I used white PVA (the common one here in Aus is Aquadhere) almost exclusively when building the boat. I may have used CA occasionally. Most of the gluing is easy enough. For the planking, I ran a thin bead of glue along the top edge of a plank, clamped (pegs work well) the next plank to it and wiped off excess glue, moving the clamps as required to do this. Good luck with your build. Edit. I should have added this. The only joints on this boat that will be under any sort of stress are those associated with the planking. The planks are already spiled, and if you fit the planks before gluing, the stresses will be minimal. You do not need a super strong glue. Cheers
  30. Richard44
    Hi Micha, I thought that I would show you a few photos of my Roar Ege. Unfortunately, there is no build log as I built it before joining MSW ☹️. Probably can't help much with questions either 🥴 as the build was quite a while ago. The kit does make into a nice model. Enjoy. Cheers
  31. Richard44
    Hi Jaager, The screws are now metal, but it is fiddly trying to get that sweet spot. I had no trouble with stock moving around, but I was only ever cutting small sectioned wood. It's not perfect, but it worked for me. Cheers
  32. Richard44
    I fastened mine to a board, then fashioned a moveable stop from aluminium (aluminum 😁) angle so that I could cut multiple pieces all the same length. Cheers
  33. Richard44
    Hi Alex, I don't actually live in the Blue Mountains, I live at Gosford. I travel to the BlueM occasionally for bushwalks. That's a great looking model you've got. Cheers
  34. Richard44
    You could look at this tool. I have one and it works very well. https://www.micromark.com/Miter-Rite Cheers
  35. Richard44
    After drinking a bottle of schnapps, I can well understand your confusion - clearly I meant along the bottle, not around it 😁😁 Cheers
  36. Richard44
    Wind the thread gently around a dowel 10 times, measure the length, divide by 10.🙂
  37. Richard44
    Kpfw VI Tiger I ?? 🙂🙂 Cheers

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