Egilman
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Everything posted by Egilman
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Yeah that's what I thought, the silvery green nylon of the chute, the kahki of the restraint net, all look like examples of military equipment in those materials I've seen with my Mk1 eyeballs also... I think that "Cushion" was actually the drogue chute used to slow down the pilot after separation... but I could be wrong... Some of the stuff they could pack into relatively tiny compartments was amazing, just the material engineering boggles the mind...... -
Yeah there are a lot of them out there about our favorite aircraft..... some of them are great, others stretch the truth a bit, but that's part of the fun of this. Drives me to learn more about it....
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Well parts are painted in light aircraft grey.... I painted the upper surface of the wheel well (hidden when assembled) in light ghost grey to give the contrast of the two colors I have.... The issue is this, one seat I have pics of appears a very blueish grey, the other appears a neutral grey..... Either color will work I suppose and of course the lighting on the two shots is completely different.... To me, the neutral gray seems to be the more natural color as the bluish tint comes from intense white light.... (learned that on the Bandit trailers grey paint) Intense white light flashes tends to show distance background detail in darkened backgrounds as well which you see in the blue tinted pic... Where in the "normal" light pic the backgrounds are just dark like they should be.... Any one else have an opinion? both pics look good.... and I know we have an airplane driver from this era here.... Suggestions? I'm leaning towards the natural light neutral grey....... EG
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Your a stick and rudder guy so I'm not going to argue with actual experience and knowledge brother, Thank you for your service.... On the other hand facts are facts... The F-104 had a downward firing ejection seat when originally designed true, but, it didn't last long. (I think only the first 70 or so had them) The issue was the speed of the aircraft and not having a powerful enough catapult motor to clear the tail fin at the speeds the aircraft was capable of flying..... so downward was the order of the day... The evolution of the seat started with the Stanley "B" model, There is this story from a test pilot of an ejection from a YF-104 over Rodgers Dry Lake.... Anyway the entire history of the F-104's ejection seats is here.... (it's where I got the pics from) The "C" model was the first model intentionally designed with an upward firing seat, ALL the "A" models were upgraded to the same seat the "C" model had the (Stanley designed/built) Lockheed C-2.... Chuck Yeager also describes his experience with the C-2 system during flight testing his YF-104A..... The europeans didn't like the failure rate of the C-2 system so had a Martin Baker Seat system similar to your F-4 system retrofitted to the Lockheed rails....
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Ok I think I'm ready for paint..... Light Aircraft Grey.... Yes the seat gets painted Grey also.... The last three pics show the seat with the pilots parachute still attached, sometimes they would leave the chute in the airplane cockpit still attached to the seat.... Off to paint parts.... EG
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I'm here to tell ya, I'm on my fourth tired, and staring the fifth in the eye... There is no light work at the end brother... There is no rest for the weary, and the wicked only take what is left....
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MRAP ATV by CDW - FINISHED - Rye Field - 1:35 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I love that Cat yellow against the desert yellow...... Perfect!!! Looking great my friend.... -
Man, this is going to be one tight fit..... First class accomodations only I guess.....
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Well Lou, if someone out there would help us out and make an aftermarket set for this venerable old bird, I wouldn't have this hacking problem....
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American Wrecker Truck by kpnuts - Italari - 1/24 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to kpnuts's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I haven't been up on aliens in a long long time, but that one looks kinda familiar...... (just can't place it) -
I'm in brother....
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Don't we all?
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Masking fluid works well for doing hard edge camo, (as long as the base coat of paint adheres well) he's looking for that soft sprayed edge camo effect in the picture..... It's very doable with rattle can, (at least two different ways in my knowledge, probably more of them out there) but the technique is a bit more involved but not much different than his bluetack method. But you do have to see it done then it all falls into place..... Somebody will do one to illustrate the technique.... I'm sure of it...
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It will come brother, with a little time it will come... Somebody around here will do a feathered edge camo job..... It's bound to happen...
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That's the ticket. My doc, (a very fine younger lady btw, well, younger than me) suggested it after recieveing my firm NO when suggesting that they like to have that procedure ran at my age...... (and she suggested it with an understanding sweet smile) and it only has to be done once every couple of years instead of the annual probing of the other test.....
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Thank you Ken, not quite finished fitting yet, before I put any grey paint on it I need to finish with the plastic cutting and gluing... Still have the center doghouse to make and mount the rudder pedals... before I paint it... I'll get up a shot when the conversion is all said an done before I fit it out with the PE...
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That was sprayed directly by hand brother, no masks involved on the real thing.....
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So we started the process of deepening the cockpit tub by cutting off the bottom..... Then we cut two pieces of plastic card to glue to the outsides of the side panels of the old cockpit.... Once glued, they are trimmed to length.... then using the old base as a pattern we cut another piece of plastic card to represent the new floor.... Rescaling is complete but we still need to fit it to the fuselage....... Now fitted into the fuselage all that is left is to check the ejection seat for proper fit in the new extended tub.... And finally the seat in proportion to the rebuilt cockpit tub... I still need to figure a way to locate and mount the rudder pedals, but the hard part is done.... Now to sand off the side panels and check the stick position in relation to the instrument panel and we are good to go.... Next up final fitting.... EG
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You get used to them my friend, and, they are an absolutely necessary tool if your going to work with resin.....
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Thank you very much Dennis, It's really appreciated!!!
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B-25J Mitchell by Tom E - Revell - 1:48 Scale - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to Tom E's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
My only suggestion is find something with a few rivets on it, then test it out and see what happens.... You will know when it is dry when it looks painted on... (best leave it overnight although it usually doesn't take that long) -
Ok, I've started hacking plastic..... Those two little nubbins got to go, they hold up the rudder pedals, not going to work with the PE..... Cutting the right side, I have to cut it along the floor cause I need to keep that slot on the back, it glues to the front wheel well to set it's location in the fuselage.... Cutting the left side..... Completely separated now... I should be able to get some measurements on how much I need to add to the sides... I know it's difficult to see but it measures a hair more than 1/8th of an inch. I think what I"m going to do is replace the floor with new rather than try and retain the old, this will give me a clean tub to work with and the seat was designed for a tub type cockpit.... the parts wall thickness is 46 thousandths so I will use 40 to make the sides, it will also allow me to create a crossbar support for the rudder pedals PE, then they will dangle like they are supposed to....
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Give it time my friend, a course will soon reveal itself....
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Cheer up brother, we've all been in the same boat....... You do beautiful work.... don't let anyone (especially yourself) tell you otherwise....
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Ok another question? Why? What I would do is find a decent sized cardboard box that can be knocked down when not being used, use it to place your model on when painting therefore you do not have to touch it when painting and you only have to control the paint not both paint and model at the same time.... when done painting knock the box down flat and slip it into a closet.....
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