Egilman
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B-17 42-32006... B-17G-35-BO: 42-31932 to 42-32116 This was Duration Plus which was forced down in France 03/03/44 eventually salvaged 10/15/45. I found her.... B-17 42-32008... B-17G-35-BO: 42-31932 to 42-32116 Delivered Denver 01/15/44; Kearney 01/29/44; Assigned: 551BS/385BG Gt Ashfield [HR-T] 02/21/44; Returned to US: 121 BU Bradley 06/24/45; 4168 BU Sth Plains 07/05/45; 237 BU Kirtland 12/10/45; Scrapped: Albuquerque 02/07/46. LI’L AUDREY. -
That's not a B-17 code number, all B-17 code numbers were 4 digits up to the model "F" and from there, their code numbers start at 240000...... (although there were some "F" models with 4 digit numbers, assembly line modification to earlier airframes) And that is a "G" model with twin cheek guns, believe it or not that helps.... The airfix kit is a "G" model also.... so none of the Little or Lil' Audreys we have posted will work as they are "F" models.... I'll do some more looking around....
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Yeah it's the pic, the same image is posted to the B-17 DB.... And looking through the DB, I find that there were two "Little Audrey's" 41-24560... B-17F-25-BO: 41-24540 to 41-24584 33 of the 44 aircraft in this production block were lost to enemy action. (only 4 of them returned to the USA after they were worn out) 42-29477... B-17F-55-BO: 42-29467 to 42-29531 When 24560 was transferred into the 369th BS she was the earlier aircraft named "Little Audrey" and 29477 was renamed "Joan of Arc" (lost 10/14/43 over Schweinfurt) Update: I found a third... 41-24523... B-17F-20-BO: 41-24504 to 41-24539 Originally called "Golly" was renamed "Lil Audrey" and then renamed again to "Snooks" She was lost 08/31/43 after a mid-air collision with.... 42-29816... B-17F-70-BO: 42-29732 to 42-29831 "The Eager Beaver" over the english channel with only one survivor from the two crews.
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If you mean this Lil Audrey, I'll be sittin in.... Aircraft # 41-24560
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1931 Cadillac by CDW - FINISHED - JoHan - 1:25 Scale - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I built one of these as a gift for my father-in-law about 30 years ago.... If memory serves they built into wonderful representations with few real defects... A real blast from the past..... Sitting in on this one.... -
Figured while I'm on a bit of a short hiatus on this I would clean up my artwork and get it scaled correctly and submit for a printing quote..... Scale for 1/25th measures 116mm high and 573mm long.... The quote back was for $98.00 to print two of them, of course they will be two piece overlapping decals..... The image is hi-res in case anyone wants to save it. (or it was when I uploaded it, you can access it by clicking on it and expanding it then copying it into your favorite software or to your HD. It measures 2048x415 pixels)
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Ahh... late to the party, but, I see the main attraction hasn't arrived yet, just being introduced.... Grabbin a seat......
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That's not the cannon mounted in fighter aircraft, (well a modified M-61) with the Navy's Phalanx system adapted to 20mm rounds, mounted on a mobile chassis.... Limited to 1,000RPM in burst mode The Israelis are the only ones that actually used it to shoot down an enemy aircraft in combat.... and they did it only three times. It was mostly used in the same manner as the M-16 modeled above, as infantry support. It's no longer in use by the US military being finally phased out in 1994. (replaced with the M-6 stinger equipped Bradley AFV. Currently the US Army uses the actual Phalanx system (known as the Centurion C-RAM Scroll down for it) mounted to trailers for DIVAD. (can also be mounted on a HEMTT) and I understand that they are phasing that out as well.... Guns for DIVAD have been rated as ineffectual for several decades.
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Try again.... M-163 M-113 -w- Vulcan Divad...... From Amazon.....
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SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa - Edwardkenway-FINISHED
Egilman replied to Edwardkenway's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
But I already promised SWMBO a floaty thingy. After this current build.... (but I think that the guns and motive power is not going to be what she expected) And SWMBO is much more powerful than the Borg..... -
Artillery/mortarman Huh? that's ok, I like artillery. The only thing I don't have in the stash is what isn't being molded at this time... (and a 8" howitzer) based on the long tom gun which is still easily available. (including their standard or substitute standard prime movers) Beautiful work...... nice collection....
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Everyone else is in the same prison, so if someone was brave enough to do that, (defy the government) he would be crushed by the demand for cakes with metal accoutrements... and then of course the government would see to his edification..... But, yes, we need to see your army brother... that is if you really want to display the contents of your arsenal....
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Nope there isn't, and the guvenor has just built the walls a bit higher, since it is claimed that no one is following his no large gathering orders, he has now ordered a stay at home decree, closing all non-essential businesses. and everyone needs to stay at home unless an emergency happens.... We are one step away from martial law...... (here in Washington state)
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SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa - Edwardkenway-FINISHED
Egilman replied to Edwardkenway's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
GAWD! youse guys with your US Navy builds.... (gotta... resist.... temptation......) Gorgeous work my friend...... EG -
Beautiful work... Well done..
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Just ordered up some Mr Surfacer 500 & 1000 and the matching thinner from Sprue Bro's. Should be here in the next couple of days. Meanwhile I will start setting up the tandem unit. (the wheels and tires should arrive in the next couple of weeks) But I also received my replacement wheels and tires for the tractor and the suspension parts I've been told are on the way.... so If I run out of things to do with the trailer, I'll switch back to the Tractor.... Solid resin and solid rubber tires, with the correct tread pattern as well! They actually look the part and will not disintegrate, split apart or go flat....
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Well I just thought I would ask, I mean going through and doing a fantastic dio of a WWII collapsed/destroyed stone church somewhere in France/Germany would look strange with a late '60's jeep. The m-60 is what stuck in my mind.... Not trying to be a rivet counter and an M-16 and M-151 are entirely believable in the right context, but your builds are too gorgeous to make that kind of anachronism my friend.... (so I figured I should mention it)
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I'm very familiar with Verlinden, his items were always pricey, but well worth it.... The reason I asked was I was wondering the setting with a classic late '44 M-16 which is very well built and an also very well built M-151A2 MUTT complete with wading kit, and M-60 all fitting in the same diorama....... M-16's were extensively used in Vietnam one of the best local defoliators around, so the MUTT isn't unusual in that respect, just wondering about the WWII setting... Beautiful work on both I may add...
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Just a question, is this an old stone church in Vietnam?
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It looks absolutely beautiful.... Nothing done at this point is going to change that....
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Already got one on the back side OC, too much detail on the front side that has to show on the finished model is the issue here.... Thank you for the suggestion... EG
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Another Wow!!! Mr Surfacer looks to be the ticket in this specific application no sanding needed at all. The vallejo plastic putty could also work and would be fairly easy to remove if it goes wrong..... Thank you for the suggestion ken and thank you Lou for the videos, I went ahead and found a few more video/demonstrations of both Mr Surfacer and plastic putty.... I can see uses for the plastic putty, but to be honest what Mr surfacer is showing is exactly the ticket. all the rest eventually drag out the sanding sticks which I have to avoid here, I do have needle sanders for getting in those real real tight places, but I don't even want to go to those with this... Going to give Mr Surfacer a try and see what I can do with it.... Now to order it and wait for it to get here... The real issue here is the huge decal that has to go over it. If the surface has issues larger than the beading detail it will show up like a waving flag. no amount of clear flat will hide it........ Thank you Ken..... Thank you Lou.... I"m going to test all of them and see what I can do with them....
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WOW! that is an idea I never thought of it would work wonders in many applications. I'm going to throw together some scrap and test it out.... Thank you, I can think of several situations where this will come in handy....
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The back side has a strip of .020 backing the joint for reinforcement and leveling the joint so there is no access to the back side..... But thank you it was a thought...
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Primered parts..... The reefer unit came out nice, all that is left is detailing and painting.... The side panels I"m not so sure about.... The gap shows, but then again, this is why we use Tamiya ultra fine primer. To show the defects. You can clearly see some gaps.... Horizontal joints...... It measures out at 1/64th to 1/32nd inch. Not very much, but enough for microsol to pull the decal into it. Vertical joints... Measures less than a 64th but it's there..... So the issue is, I need a way to fill those gaps without effecting the surface detail. As you can see the detail is fine and very close to where the fill needs to be applied. This rules out most hardening putty's that need to be sanded. I was thinking about a self leveling filling primer. (if there is such a thing) Or, in the alternative, successive coats of future, which dries very thin and build up the joints over the gaps... It will need a coat of Tamiya fine white primer & Future before the decal gets applied. I don't think gap filling CA is the answer, a little too much or an unsteady hand and you have to sand.... Any suggestions? Maybe someone has dealt with this before.... Thank you in advance, any ideas welcome
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