Egilman

Hey denis.... Yeah, when I first decided I was going to do this I thought it was going to be easy, just grab a couple of models, a few simple bashes and some paint majic I'll be in like flint.... (so much for that thought) There is a LOT that can be done with detail painting and weathering and god knows there are trucks that have weathering... but I've stuck myself to a very specific truck/trailer combination..... with loads of visual information to show what it was... And if I'm going to be true to that then there isn't much I can do on the detail side as far as painting, the scheme and course is set.... The truck in the movie was typical road material nothing special, they all went through dealer sales and were typical assembly line items nothing custom at all . (except what they added for the movie which wasn't much aside from paint and a fake reefer) I've been debating on washing it down with a dirt wash but not much else, the only place I see rust was on Trailer #1 (7 months old) and it was very light spotty stuff Trailer #2 which I'm modeling was fresh off a dealer lot less than two months old, no rust at all.... And the making of shots showed cans the same color as the axles which means they were new enough to not have been replaced yet, Trailer #1 had three different cans on it... two originals (from the grey paint, one blue and one black with bare metal edges... I may do another truck at some point which I can play with effects on, but this one has a specific look and details which have to be there...... (otherwise the rivet counters, or, more specifically for the truck modeling world, the bolt counters are going to be all over it) But I'm going to be laying ambush for them, with every detail added I have movie caps with indexed time and frame #'s showing the detail I'm adding actually on film..... I"ve already had a few comments over the engine from guys that say they just KNOW what engine it had by the sound of it..... (engine is never seen in the movie, in fact I have it from the property masters that the hoods were never raised in the entire production of the movie. even they do not know, nor did they care) so yeah I'm sure being a movie accurate rig, all the "experts" are going to come out of the woodwork on this one, it's also why I'm not doing it in the truck forums.... (although there are some of them, good guys, that know) I've set a fairly high bar on this one.... I've had a couple of occasions to wish I hadn't.... (but solutions eventually come forward to the problems) Besides, it caused the wife to pay attention and suggest we get a glass case to put it in when it's done... A small price to pay for perfect storage for my hobby.... And I'm having fun, the wife occasionally asks how's the truck coming and comments that it's going to be beautiful when it's done and such things... Right now all's right with the world.... Thank you for following and all the comments.... EG

Thank you very much OC, I've got parts that have come in from all over the world, Czechoslovakian photo etch, Austrian resin and PE, Australian resin, plastic and metal castings, (in fact my missing parts for the TBS arrived today YAY!) England, 1/25th scale expanded metal and all 18 tires and wheels are aftermarket out of Ohio.... Still waiting on some of the wheels and tires and the resin air horns from Austria. Most of these parts are from one-man specialty shops, so they take your order and you go on the production list and when they are done they are shipped..... could easily take a month to get them and when the occasional mistake happens like with my TBS it can take three months to get what you need... Almost like the aftermarket ship model industry in the beginnings... It's a whole lot different today than it was the last time a built a truck model.... Thank you for asking... (and yes I'm sure there are a lot of kits being built at this time of forced inactivity) EG

Nice quick start..... Nice work as well...

Ok there it is, finished cleaned and repaired.... I hope someone can use it.... EG Update: With the hidden lines removed.... Now I'm done with it, looks better in my opinion not as busy and cluttered...

It's already about half done Andy, it doesn't take long, I regularly clean up and correct BoGP's for my private collection.... It's really not that difficult... (a bit tedious but easy) And I'm glad that someone understands the importance of archives of design references, if anything the museums could use the help.... When I get it done, I'll post the finished work a second time in case anyone else is interested....

I can clean it up and remove all the call-out numbers, from there it can be scaled and reference sizes taken.... There really isn't much available it's sad to say and if the loss was intentional, then those stuffed shirts without brains that did it really shouldn't be in charge... The history of what came before is as important as the vision for the future.... Sad...

Will this help? It's only part of the drawing, but it's all I can find at the moment.... Wood Canadian Pacific Buffet Car...

That looks spot on brother, what paint are you using for the semi-gloss on the frame, it couldn't be any closer to real..... the exhaust looks like it came from the shop down the street.... I'm gonna have to go ask if they really do miniature cars.... I've got a packard boattail speedster build in my near future, something the wife really likes and to replace the one she lost when we moved into our current home..... that paint would be perfect.....

No problem my friend, I like to do research.... (even back to the age of petrified wood, of which I have a fairly large chunk of sitting in the wife's flower garden, very very heavy stuff) I have some white oak and philippine mahogany that was salvaged from old machinery shipping crates measured 12" x 12" at 16 feet long.... it ruined three carbide tipped saw blades cutting it down to manageable lengths/sizes to handle on my table saw.... It was like cutting steel..... you couldn't drive a nail into it either.... but man it made beautiful furniture...... The best part, they were free, given to me to get rid of them....

Ok so the ship was built when? cause it will probably use the sail rig in common use at that point in history, say 1820-30's or so?... Try this.... And scroll down to La Toulonnaise 1823..... or scroll all the way to the bottom and take a look at their schooner plan 19th century, it's of the Goleta which is even closer.... (kinda a general reference to topsail schooners at the height of their popularity) Looks to be pretty close to what your building. I would say it would look the part.... Any way, that site should have a plan that will look real good..... some even have the rigging construction details

Next step, getting difficult to continue, still waiting on parts, running out of subassemblies. I usually prefer to collect everything I need and run a build right through to the end one continuous stream... but having issues with shipping delays in the middle of a build is no fun at all.... Trailer colors.... we know the bullnose and doors are black, and the sides have their murals.... what about the rest of the trailer...... Movie capture, looks grey.... Yep, light grey... the real thing..... Now that looks like a light ghost grey. (but look at that light level also, it's so bright that the light is reflecting off the tread of the tires!) Let's try another pic without the intense light.... Now that's more like it, sunny day in the shade, medium light grey seems to be a good choice, and look at the upper right corner, under intense flash, it shows a blue cast.... Testors Aircraft Grey is what I'm going to use.... I think it fits the bill perfectly..... Trailer parts, minus the box.... Painted Aircraft Grey.... We start with the sliding tandem unit frame.... 7 parts... (and notice that under the bright flash, it has a blue cast to the aircraft grey, color is spot on) So the first step is to mount the spring/flange parts to the outer side frame rails...... This is where the first problem reveals itself.... Sorry for the blurry pic, but it is still clear enough to see that the flanges on the spring parts sits proud of the frame rail. It is supposed to sit flush with the frame rail top flange...... So I have to relieve the spacing on the inside of the part. Unaltered part at the top, relieved part at the bottom, done by using a flat file to shave the part down between the flanges without damaging or breaking off the springs.... Again sorry for the blurry pics, corrected part at the bottom, untouched parts at the top. Relieving is necessary because the crossmembers need to fit between the side rail flanges while meeting the spring flanges flush. Without shaving the cross members do not fit tight to the side rails which is needed for strength.... Gluing the springs to the side rails.... Crossmembers installed and squared, the forward end is too the left.... Axles, radius rods, brake levers and air pots installed...... Auxiliary air tank and regulator installed along with the air hose support..... Stock wheels and tires assembled and installed temporarily to get the delicate detail parts off the table where they will get broke.... The sliding tandem unit is now complete, I have resin wheels and true rubber tires on order if they ever get here, they are much more accurately detailed and the new tires have the correct tread pattern as seen in the movie.... And, except for the landing gear, I have no other sub-assemblies I can build without more parts arriving. At this point I think I'm going to put this on hold until the parts arrive, I have tractor hubs, trailer wheels and tires, mural decals, and other assorted needed details arriving sometime in the future from all over the country and world in fact... until they get here there isn't much I can do, and I usually like having all materials and supplies on hand when I start a build.... This is why this is advancing agonizingly slow, (agonizingly slow for me) So I'm going to put this on hold until all the parts arrive and I can proceed like I enjoy doing.... smoothly and without interruptions beyond my control.... In the meantime to occupy myself and bore you to tears, I'll be starting another build log shortly on a simpler subject that should be easier without the delays... haven't decided what yet, I need to look thru my stash and see what I've got that isn't going to require any aftermarket or just minimal scratchbuilding, that rules out ships, most armor and most aircraft. Maybe this will work.... An OOB blast from the past would be perfect..... Rest assured, you will NOT go away without seeing the end of this build, until I have glued the last part and posted pics of it for you! Thank you for looking in and commenting.... EG

Breakout the diamond dust paper that'll sand it smooth.... (Flintstone's manual on petrified wood ship building, chapter 27. (edited by Rubble and associates, 1st engraving 23 million BC)

Our public education system at work.... (teachers more clueless than the students) And ours are some of the highest paid teachers in the country!!!) Anything I can do to help? :-) The bird will patiently wait, we here will patiently wait, (no matter how much we don't want to) and pray that you and yours stay safe, take no inordinate risks, as we are all in the same boat as you for the most part.... Thanks for the warning my friend, but I'm sure, no one here classifies it as a warning to fear.... Remember, when the world dishes out lemons and refuses to allow us to make lemonade, grab a mint julep instead, more tasty and satisfying in the end... (it's become a crazy world out there) Take care and stay safe, we will be here..... (as long as the guv doesn't shut down the internet in the cause of social distancing)

Nice sharp work......

Yeah, and eventually you combine them, and we get multimedia.... for those wild and crazy days....

Now under the light you have there is looks perfect.... And your brushing it straight out of the bottle over light colored plastic with no primer? I'm impressed!!!! Damn fine paint job...

Ah!!! Old School..... Great Job!

Nice looking Tie Nick... My suggestion is Testors dull coat or gloss coat for clear finishes..... It is lacquer and stinks the place up, but it's the best as far as I'm concerned...

Yeah I've been known to do that on occasion also.... So your not alone....

Yes, the casting job is very nice.... looks to be a well thought out kit..... (and your better at dry brushing than I am) Good Job!

Well my experience, (50+ years) in the real world of model building has been that the dedicated wood ship builders tend to look at plastic builders as something less than real modelers, but this forum is changing my opinion on that rapidly, and very happily if I might add...... To me it's all modeling, the medium and techniques/tools may change a bit, but it's all the same in the long run...... Recreating real life for others to enjoy, same as painters and sculptors in fact model making is kinda a combination of both those other art forms when you come right down to it...

I already have one, several really, but I didn't think of that! Anyways, I"ve done my testing and application to the side panels..... Two coats of Mr Surfacer 500 on the joints.... It filled the grooves quite well.... My only problem with it was I didn't apply it directly to the plastic, I applied it over the Tamiya primer, so when I went to use the thinner to smooth it off, it also moved the primer..... UGH! so now I had to decide to either do it all over after removing the primer or test shoot it with the final white primer and see how it lays in the grooves.... Test shot with white.... Wet... Dry... That actually didn't come out too bad, it's not completely smooth, but it doesn't really stand out either and it's not hiding the rivet details either.... A couple more shots.... The vertical join.... The horizontal join..... Not perfect, but a lot better than it was. I'm going to go with it, the decal will ride over the joints without sinking now and once installed and flat finished I don't think it will be that noticeable, and besides the coat of future going on it for decal adhesion will do some smoothing out itself also.... I'm happy with it...... Next time I know to use the Mr Surfacer before any paint.... also use this in a WELL ventilated area it's Acetone based and the fumes will not overpower you, but the aroma will linger in the room for quite a few hours.... (my experience in my 500+ sq ft workshop)

Yes, Welcome to MSW! AS a short-timer here I have found the place to be very very welcoming... Downright homey in a good way.... They even tolerate us plastic people.... {chuckle}

I will definitely pull up a ringside seat for that one....

They actually got 4 B-29's that were damaged over Japan and overflew to vladivostok and were interned. Three of them were damaged beyond repair but one was almost untouched. (it's fuel tanks were holed and the fuel loss did not allow them to return to Tinian)...... The crew actually landed it on the runway to the great excitement of the Soviet AF officers present..... They threw them parties and did the whole comrade thing until they were told they were being interned. They were eventually allowed to "escape" through Iran at one of the transfer points for lend lease going into Russia, but the russians kept the plane of course They actually built their version the TU-2 or was it 4, my mind is not remembering it right at this moment. But I do remember the shock our side had when three flights of them showed up at one of their May Day parade/flybys...... (they weren't generally liked by the russians assigned to fly them, they were very unreliable)