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Everything posted by Egilman
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Just a note, from the factory, (Bell Helicopter) the dash panels were grey, same grey as the rest of the interior..... They were painted black by the receiving station/unit on the order of the commanding general that felt they would be better black..... (less glare or some such opinion) And there are lots of examples that not all of them got painted... Looks spot on to me....... -
Here is an example of stripping enamel paint with super clean.... I was going to go with an interior approximately this color..... Kinda goes well with the body work doesn't it? but since mine is going to be red & silver this is too light.... But I had already painted the cockpit and the drivers seat, so it needs stripping.... After 12 hours bath, most is now loose and could be brushed off.. but I'm going to leave it for another couple of hours while I decide what tone I want the Leather to be, probably a more deeper brown toned leather.... A lot of these cars had a black interior, or white interior, and neither of those appeal to me. They were manufactured in any interior finish the customer wanted, with color matched carpet and leather seats & door panels.... I have leather paint and a few other colors... still considering it...... But it's confirmed Super Clean does remove paint albeit a bit slower than chrome....
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In 1/35th the difference will be probably a half a millimeter....... And I'm sure the crew would know it was an awesome weapon since they probably had to face fire from one at some point... problem with liberating one from your enemy is ammo, you can find an excellent operable weapon, but the ammo is usually gone by the time you acquire it with no resupply available.....
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Yep, there's film of just such happening on the web, or there used to be.... what would happen is almost like a car you could get it going straight you could get it moving. as soon as you tried to change direction, the tank would turn, but it would keep going in the same direction you were trying to turn away from until the crown of the road pushed it off to one side or the other. When that happened, your down for the ride. It didn't stop until it reached the dirt shoulder where the track would catch and the tank would spin around till one whole track was in the dirt then it would stop.... This is the reason all those back forest roads during this period had broken down pavement edges and shoulders that were nothing but mud, cause the tracks quickly learned that they needed to keep one track off the cobblestones to maintain control....
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I suppose when someone is put into a situation where you have to accept that your chances of making it out alive are worse that not, gallows humor helps pass the fear off into something manageable.... A very human way to keep your sanity....... -
Wow, An M-4 105...... Snowy road, tank kinda sideways from sliding off the crown of the frozen ice clogged cobblestones, shell casings laying around from direct fire against german defensive bunkers, third armored counterattack against the left flank of the salient surrounding Bastogne....... Three man observation team directing fire...... The possibilities are endless....... maybe a smashed Pak 40 in the ditch on the opposite side of the road..... (Winter wonderland visions fading away......) I'm in..... The only suggestion I could make? I know the desire to build OOB, (it can be done) but I would recommend ditching the kit's vinyl tracks and going with a period correct T54E1 Workable Track Link Set (amazon) probably cheaper on Evilbay... changes the whole look. That is the only deficiency with Tamiya armored vehicles is their reliance on plastic rubber band tracks that are a pain to get to lay right...., Especially in a diorama, if you choose to go in that direction...... Either way I'm sure it is going to come out wonderful....
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Indeed, although chemically inert, it is a very powerful concentrated caustic degreaser, much like Lye, (thankfully not as unstable as lye, which is also biodegradable btw.) something you definitely want to take precautions with. Try to keep it off your hands and completely out of your eyes.... Treat it like you would any powerful kitchen cleaner concentrate, with normal care it is quite safe. And thank you Craig for the information on paint stripping....
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Thanks Ken, I wish it was a tutorial more a demonstration... pour in it something, and drop the parts in.... For most parts I use a pint mason jar with a lid, every so often I just give it a shake stir it up a bit, I use another pint jar with lid full of clear cold water for the rinse, same thing leave it soak for a bit giving it an occasional shake.... when done lay them out on a paper towel to dry them.... The super clean in the jar last for several kits before needing changing, the water bath I change after every stripping job..... The floor pan/fenders on the packard is the largest part I've ever had to strip chrome off of.... seems to work fine there also.... Hopefully it does work on paint..... EG
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Greetings to you as well!!! thanks for looking in... No I haven't tried it on paint, but I do know that left to soak overnight / 24hrs, it separates/removes the dielectric lacquer they use to get the chrome to stick to the plastic in the first place.... All I can say is give it a try, it isn't going to hurt it...... And yes, stripping paint in brake fluid is a nasty process..... Thank you for asking... EG
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At 1 hr 40 min, she was done on that side.... So we flip her over.... And 40 minutes later.... Almost done.... we will be right in at three hours for a complete strip and that was doing it in two stages, If I had completely inundated it in Super Clean, it would be done already.... I have no affiliation with Super Clean or any of it's parent or subsidiary companies and no financial stake at all in this product... My interest is solely in that it works for modeling better than anything else I have ever seen.... and I would recommend it to any one needing to strip electroplated chrome off of plastic without damaging the plastic underneath.... Now when this is done in a few minutes I wash it off, dry it and now, in three hours, it's ready for paint.... EG
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One hour in the Super Clean.... I gave it a bit of a swirl and tilted it so you can see the effect....... All except for the hard edges, (which take a lot of plating during the plating process, it is clean) and in another half hour the hard edges will be clean as well.... The undersides, 1 hour in.... Almost completely clear....... Another half an hour or so to get the hard edges and then flip her over to do the parts that were out of the solution.... This is the chrome stripper everyone should be using.... and besides, diluted 5/1, it makes some the best household cleaner around..... Put this in your tool kit you will not be sorry....
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