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Everything posted by Egilman
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Yep, there's film of just such happening on the web, or there used to be.... what would happen is almost like a car you could get it going straight you could get it moving. as soon as you tried to change direction, the tank would turn, but it would keep going in the same direction you were trying to turn away from until the crown of the road pushed it off to one side or the other. When that happened, your down for the ride. It didn't stop until it reached the dirt shoulder where the track would catch and the tank would spin around till one whole track was in the dirt then it would stop.... This is the reason all those back forest roads during this period had broken down pavement edges and shoulders that were nothing but mud, cause the tracks quickly learned that they needed to keep one track off the cobblestones to maintain control....
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I suppose when someone is put into a situation where you have to accept that your chances of making it out alive are worse that not, gallows humor helps pass the fear off into something manageable.... A very human way to keep your sanity....... -
Wow, An M-4 105...... Snowy road, tank kinda sideways from sliding off the crown of the frozen ice clogged cobblestones, shell casings laying around from direct fire against german defensive bunkers, third armored counterattack against the left flank of the salient surrounding Bastogne....... Three man observation team directing fire...... The possibilities are endless....... maybe a smashed Pak 40 in the ditch on the opposite side of the road..... (Winter wonderland visions fading away......) I'm in..... The only suggestion I could make? I know the desire to build OOB, (it can be done) but I would recommend ditching the kit's vinyl tracks and going with a period correct T54E1 Workable Track Link Set (amazon) probably cheaper on Evilbay... changes the whole look. That is the only deficiency with Tamiya armored vehicles is their reliance on plastic rubber band tracks that are a pain to get to lay right...., Especially in a diorama, if you choose to go in that direction...... Either way I'm sure it is going to come out wonderful....
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Indeed, although chemically inert, it is a very powerful concentrated caustic degreaser, much like Lye, (thankfully not as unstable as lye, which is also biodegradable btw.) something you definitely want to take precautions with. Try to keep it off your hands and completely out of your eyes.... Treat it like you would any powerful kitchen cleaner concentrate, with normal care it is quite safe. And thank you Craig for the information on paint stripping....
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Thanks Ken, I wish it was a tutorial more a demonstration... pour in it something, and drop the parts in.... For most parts I use a pint mason jar with a lid, every so often I just give it a shake stir it up a bit, I use another pint jar with lid full of clear cold water for the rinse, same thing leave it soak for a bit giving it an occasional shake.... when done lay them out on a paper towel to dry them.... The super clean in the jar last for several kits before needing changing, the water bath I change after every stripping job..... The floor pan/fenders on the packard is the largest part I've ever had to strip chrome off of.... seems to work fine there also.... Hopefully it does work on paint..... EG
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Greetings to you as well!!! thanks for looking in... No I haven't tried it on paint, but I do know that left to soak overnight / 24hrs, it separates/removes the dielectric lacquer they use to get the chrome to stick to the plastic in the first place.... All I can say is give it a try, it isn't going to hurt it...... And yes, stripping paint in brake fluid is a nasty process..... Thank you for asking... EG
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At 1 hr 40 min, she was done on that side.... So we flip her over.... And 40 minutes later.... Almost done.... we will be right in at three hours for a complete strip and that was doing it in two stages, If I had completely inundated it in Super Clean, it would be done already.... I have no affiliation with Super Clean or any of it's parent or subsidiary companies and no financial stake at all in this product... My interest is solely in that it works for modeling better than anything else I have ever seen.... and I would recommend it to any one needing to strip electroplated chrome off of plastic without damaging the plastic underneath.... Now when this is done in a few minutes I wash it off, dry it and now, in three hours, it's ready for paint.... EG
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One hour in the Super Clean.... I gave it a bit of a swirl and tilted it so you can see the effect....... All except for the hard edges, (which take a lot of plating during the plating process, it is clean) and in another half hour the hard edges will be clean as well.... The undersides, 1 hour in.... Almost completely clear....... Another half an hour or so to get the hard edges and then flip her over to do the parts that were out of the solution.... This is the chrome stripper everyone should be using.... and besides, diluted 5/1, it makes some the best household cleaner around..... Put this in your tool kit you will not be sorry....
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Short time update.... Ten minutes.... You can already see it working on the recesses and running boards........ 20 minutes...... Running boards and recesses are almost clean, beginning to clean the wide flat surfaces..... 40 minutes..... Foam is forming around the wide flat floor as it attacks the chrome, at 1 hour, I will give it a swirl in the cleaner and take a look at the underside..... It works amazingly fast....... way better than bleach or oven cleaner without any elbow grease needed or the smelly odors from oven cleaner..... It's my go to for stripping chrome..... And it's bio-degradable so it is safe....... Great stuff...
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A demonstration of chrome stripping..... The next part is the Floorpan/Fenders/Underside. the part that connects the body to the frame and adds the distinctive fenders to the chassis.... OOB, it is completely chromed both sides..... Top... (sitting in position on the chassis) Bottom.... (showing the underneath floor details) The top has to be shiny gloss black, the bottom of course has to be flat black..... Super Clean..... (I get mine from Wally World in the automotive section) For some reason the camera turned the bottle blue it's actually very medium dark purple...... I pour some out in a tray..... And at 9:30 am I place the part in the super clean.... It's not deep enough to completely cover it cause I want to show how easy it really is..... so the high spots will remain chrome while the rest will be clean dark green plastic... As it works, I will take photos without disturbing it util it's done.... EG
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Porchers were well known as the absolute top of the line back in their day, and they still are very close to the top today... They can be a struggle to build, but with care and patience they build into a model that better than anything else out there.... Pretty pricey today, if you can find one unstarted.... And this is a Pocher classic, 1/8th scale beauty...... I'll be sitting in here...... I have one Pocher in my collection, (the Fiat) I don't figure I will ever build her, she's way too intimidating.....
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