Geam
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Everything posted by Geam
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Hi, the photo you posted of a round bead with a hole in it is part F347 -I think. There should be 11 of these. I forgot to post a photo of the what I think is part F697 which is a tiny dead-eye... (jomfru? in Norwegian?) I have 3 of these, but maybe they are not F697? As regards R/C control, I am only going to control the foresail (Klyver) with a sailwinch. My inner foresail will be left to self-tack on a thin elastic sheet tethered to a small 'horse' just forward of the main mast. To control the inner foresail properly would need a dedicated servo I think. It would be complicated -and maybe even impossible- to set up these two sails from the same servo. My sheets to control the klyver run in guide tubes up through the side decks abeam the main mast. I will take a photo and post it on my RS1 log. These sheets will then be run through blocks on the capping rail. Not sure if I will use the kit blocks but will probably try these first. Replace them with brass blocks if they break. I have noted your changes with regard to making the RS1 more suitable for R/C sailing. Look like very good ideas to me👍 George
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Hi again Frodo, not the same topic at all but... do you -or anyone else- know what part nr F697 is for? The parts list states that there is ONE of these in the kit. My kit has THREE. The same part is listed for the '728' -all wood RS1 and here too there is only listed ONE in the kit. It is obviously a static block or dead-eye, has a tiny hole through it from the side. I have not found this part marked on the drawings....yet. It's probably there, but where! Otherwise, I'm not sure the blocks and securing 'eye-pins' F92/I, are strong enough to handle such a large sailing yacht. I suspect that originally the RS1 kit was designed as a static model. Some of the 'eye-pins' might be exchanged for screwed-in eyebolts on my RS1.....and maybe the blocks for the foresail sheets will be brown-painted metal.😬 Anyway I can't use modern metal blocks and tackle as on my Fisher34 model so it will all have to be well epoxied in place and hope for the best. Not planning to sail in stormy weather anyway.🤢 George
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Hei Frodo. On the Sarik site--if you write 'dinghy' in the 'search' window at the top of the page. you will see the list of dighys. When I searched just now it was the third down on the list. The have a 13" and a 9" plastic clinker hull. £11.00. I bought the 9" as reckon this is the nearest to a correct size for the RS1. Sarik were going to produce an all-wood kit of a 9" clinker built dinghy, but I never checked up to see if they actually put it into production. I did not even look further down the list today, so maybe it's there now. Anyway, I did not want to start on a miniature clinker-built wooden hull! You need to mark and cut the sides of the hull to get a shape to resemble a 'Nordlandsjolle'. The line of the bow is not quite the right shape, but when all the other detail is added it looks good enough I think. I can post some of my construction photos here on your build log but first you have to say if you actually want them on your log! You may have already seen them here -or on the Model Boats forum? Not sure if I posted the actual build photos on modelshipworld. George
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I'll check up on the dinghy... George
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Had a look at the drawings. The eye-screw you refer to is for the nr 3 halyard (uphaul) for the foresail (klyver). You need to study both the plan view and the side view drawings. The halyard goes from the pin rail (naglebenk) up to a block and back down to the eye-screw on the capping rail. The same eyescrew is used to anchor the next block up in the sytem too! This system apparently gives a 8X leverage to tighten the forlik of the Klyver sail. If you follow the nr 3 sheet you will see a few more blocks in the system before you get to the top of the klyver sail! The Klyver sail does not have a forestay but on the RS1 has a wire sewn in to the forlik of the klyver.
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Hei Frodo, haven't noticed that particular eye-screw. but I am hunting around the drawings to try to find out many other small parts. I expect that you do have one further forward for the foresail sheet guide-block? Billing Boats like to keep their customers guessing, it seems. Yes dinghy is indeed too small. Have suppose that you seen my semi-scale effort? ' George
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Received a reply e-mail from Billing Boats. The new owners of Billing do not know anything about the '414' kit they say. So they do not know why there are two nr 54. One of them deffinately should go on top of the mast support nr 35 as shown on the plan. So the other one can be stuck anywhere it might look right!🤪 George
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Thank you for all the sail-making photos Frodo. they will help a lot when I get that far. Need a sewing course first though. George
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Hi Frodo, in my kit the 'Colin Archer' name looks like it' a transfer. ie. soak in 37*C water. I have not tried it yet but thought I would try the "TR 141" bit to see what happens. The background paper in my kit is a light yellow-green colour due to it's age! On another matter, have you noticed the part number 54? there's 2 of them. Called 'Mast Hoop'. The plan drawing shows ONE at the base of the mizzen mast. The part 41 is also called a 'Mast Hoop' This is at the base of the main mast. I have not seen part 54 in place at the foot of the Mizzen mast on any model RS1 and I cannot see it at the mast foot on photos of the original RS1. I wonder if they are intended to be fitted as support rings above and below where the mizzen passes through the mizzen mast support plank, part 35?? The mizzen is secured on the sole of the cockpit/steering well, so I cannot see why it needs TWO support rings at part 35. Any ideas? George
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Done a few more details recently. Installed a small stove in the forward cabin. Should have done it before the deck went on but managed to squeeze it down the hole. Made companionway steps for the fwd cabin too.
The flue for the fwd cabin stove has been made removeable to facilitate retracting the bowspit aftwards to avoid transport damage (and get the RS1 in the car!).
The local seagull seams to think the build is going a bit slowly
George
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Hi Frodo, I like your look-alike interior plan. Looks very good so far. More sensible than mine. Mine was unecessarily complicated and took me such a long time to work out how to do it and still have access to servos and RC gear. You build really fast, I'm impressed. Might be some painting-temperatures during the next days. God Påske! / Happy Easter! George
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1:100-ish?? Not 1:15-ish?
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Hi again, I wanted Robart MEDIUM size 'hinge points' but my shop only had LARGE. So I filed the plastic pegs down a bit to avoid making too big a hole in the rudder blade (weakenng the sides). Advantage was that the METAL hinge pins were then the larger (stronger) size. The medium size would probably be strong enough though. Were are not expecting high speed sailing here! George
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Hi Frodo, nice to see all of your build photos. I also replaced my kit hinges -with Robart 'hinge points' -as used in model aircraft. I kept the brass straps on the hull, but cut off the pintles (hinge parts) and installed the Robarts . Result was non-sloppy hinges. I had previously mounted the brass straps the wrong way ie. the rudder straps were BELOW the hull straps instead of above them, but chose not to change this fault as it's not very noticeable. George
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Done some small jobs this weekend.
Catheads shaped and faired, ready to go onto the foredeck later.
Main companionway steps fitted. They are secured by just two brass pins set into the cabin sole. They are removeable to allow access to the motor cover beneath the steps.
Companionway hatch is hinged to permit a rather restricted view 'down the hatch'.
George
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Deck planks have now been 'caulked'. Not a very good job, but with all the other parts to be fitted on deck a few mistakes in plank-marking will not be very noticeable. Some of the hatches have warped a bit while the glue has dried, so this will be fixed later. Hatch fasteners to be applied later, will also help to de-warp them!
A panel for the engine instruments has been prepared as well as teak gratings and a bench seat for the helmsman.
Started to prepare the catheads yesterday. They should have small pulleys in each 'head' but these do not seem to be included in the kit.
George
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That explains why there are so many of them....and also that they hang downwards even when sailing! Well done, never thought of that🙂. Professional rescue-sailors in the old days would not need a piece of wool to help them set the sails properly! Nice RS1 marking on the mainsail. I have been thinking about how to make that. good to see your example. Looks like you used the top of the glass to make the circle! I'll have to get one of those glasses before I do the sails🤪 See that you have the same Biltema compressor as I have. Your RS1 looks really superb now👌👍 George
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Last deck plank squeezed into place today. Deck structures placed on deck for self-inspiration. Made one or two small mistakes during the work....started planking over a deck hatch and glued it down to the surrounding deck. Luckily, noticed the blunder before the glue had set!
Will have to sharpen a few HB pencils to get ready for look-alike deck caulking.
George
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Hello again NP.....I'm impressed by your 'golden varnish' deck planking. I am planning to use Owatrol D1 oil then D2 varnish, but I don't think will add much colour. May I ask what your 'Golden varnish' is? George
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It's not really important, but if you want to make the telltales function during sailing, you may have to make them of thin, lightweight wool yarn. Off-White (ECRU) coloured "Dale Baby Ull" or similar. George
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Having made the semi-scale interior cabin details, I decided that the hatches on the 2 companionways as well as the foreward deck hatch should be functional. ie. the hatch can be opened to reveal the steps and a narrow view into the hull below.
To achieve this, I have installed a small brass hinge on each hatch. Each hinge will locate into a hinge 'beam' -as used on the present full size CA RS1. The small (non-operating) plastic hinges supplied in the kit will be used, but cut in two so that they will not prevent the hatch from being lifted up.
It's this kind of sidetracking that results in my rather long build times. I get some crazy detail idea then take ages to work out the logistics of it, and ages again to produce it! After all that thinking, my brain cell needs a rest before getting on with the build!'
George
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Plodding along slowly with the Colin Archer RS1. The hope to launch at Easter has been abandoned. The skylight and other deck structures are under construction. Not sure if the planking on top of skylight and companionways should be stained teak or kept natural. I intend to keep the deck planking 'natural' with no stain -just oil and varnish. Some of the wood in my particular kit is quite dark and I stained it teak thinking that all the rest would be stained teak anyway. Post a few progress photos.
George
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