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About SkiBee

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  • Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
  • Interests
    Travel, Hiking, Skiing, Golf, History (Civil War), Wood and plastic models

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  1. I used a chisel blade for vertical cut after I scored the side of the hull with a curved #22 blade. It worked really nicely, I was afraid to use the chisel blade to cut the horizontal. Refer to my build log. Good work
  2. Started coppering the hull, another challenge to overcome and a learning experience. With my fat fingers it is a little hard to get the right amount of overlap both horizontally and vertically, as well as splitting the copper tape evenly down the middle. There is a difference on the copper tile laydown in the printed instructions illustration and the schematic. The schematic looks like they followed planking type layout. I started per the printed instructions, but I can see that I will probably end up some where between the two.
  3. For clear coats, I've found that Tamiya Clear Flat is a good overcoat. Also, I routinely use Rust-oleum Clear Flat or Matt for a clear overcoat. The later being cheaper than Tamiya, I've not had a problem with the nozzle spurting as mentioned above. I've not been clear coating painted surface as much as stained or bare wood.
  4. Final coat of primer on the hull, Tamiya Fine Gray Primer. Decided to do a little something different, I painted the step below the cap rail Model Expo Bulwark Dark Green acrylic, left over from the Grand Banks Dory. A small problem arose, that in some areas the paint peeled off when I removed the tape, I used to mask the step off when I painted the rest of the hull Tamiya Matt Black spray paint. I think the problem is that I did not really rough up the surface of the primer prior to applying the acrylic, the primer I used does have a very smooth finish. So, I sanded the step down to mostly bare wood and tried again, need to touch up the black paint. While the coats of paint were drying, I built the launching way. One recommendation, the instructions say to build the end riser with 5 pieces of wood, but if you lay it out you only need to use 4 to have a constant rise over the launching way.
  5. @lraymo I also called it good enough on the hull shape, it looked good to me even though the two sides are not symmetrical. You can't tell when just looking at it.
  6. @lraymo I forgot to mention that I currently building the Phantom too and started a build log. I’m done shaping the hull and have it primed.
  7. @lraymo Mine looked like yours, recommend that you butt the aft template to the keel to guide what has to be removed. I had to sand the area at the top of the stern where it meets the transom first to guide what I removed from the aft end of the stern. Then I reduced the aft to match the schematic. Make sure you flatten the keel before you remove any other material from the hull.
  8. I whittled the hump in the hull rather than just sanding because I thought I would have more control to reduce just in the area that I wanted reduced. Then I sanded the area smooth as I could and then used putty to fill in the remaining knife marks and make a smooth transition from hull to keel. What it looks like after a second coat of Tamiya Fine Gray primer. I will be going through another round of sanding, putty and primer. I don’t like the unevenness of the step.
  9. Took a minute to build the rudder, not sure how much tapper to have from front to aft. Also, I think I’m going to put a pin at the top and bottom instead of shaping the rudder stock. A fourth coat of putty and then some move sanding, after that I think I will spray on some primer to determine how much more sanding and filling needs to be done. The primer indicated very little putty work left to do on the majority of the hull. The biggest problem is what looks like a depression at the port keel is actually a hump of wood just above the keel. I think I’m going to have to whittle and sand to remove it. I thought about just filling it but I think that would eliminate the appearance of a keel at mid-ship.
  10. Great job, I'm at the start of building mine and your log pictures will be a big help as I go.
  11. Before I did anything with the sail material, I wetted it and then ironed it with an iron on cotton. Now that you have put glue on, it might work and might not, but I'm sure it would leave some glue residue on your iron. Your might try it on a excess piece that you have glued before you try on the real sail. Looking good.
  12. I’ve tried to pull in the top of the stem by wetting it and using rubber bands. It has reduced the gap between the stem and bow by half, still about a 32nd to 16th gap. I will fill the gap with glue and saw dust then putty for a smooth translon. You can see I’ve put on the first coat of putty in the gaps between the keel, stem, and stern post and the hull.
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