Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
  • Interests
    Travel, Hiking, Skiing, Golf, History (Civil War), Wood and plastic models

Recent Profile Visitors

459 profile views
  1. Current Projects:
    Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways - 1:24
    Phantom New York Pilot Boat - Model Shipways - 1:96 {on hold until Lobster Smack is complete}


    Completed Projects:
    18th Century Long Boat - Model Shipways - 1:48

    Norwegian Sailing Pram - Model Shipways - 1:12
    Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24


  2. The starboard side I sanded a little more then put the first coat of putty on to fill in the gaps and depressions. You can see that the depression at the aft end next to the stern post will need much more fill and smoothing. I think I should have sanded more to even the planks more, so that is what I did on the port side, I think it looks better and will result in a better job.
  3. @cbeckenb You have done a fantastic job on planking!!!! Mine looks like crap compared to yours, well done. If you haven't solved your sheer stake problem yet, I would look at taking the total distance from the #9 plank to the top of the deck and divide by 2 to make two planks (a new plank 10 and a new sheer plank) to replace the sheer plank. Good luck
  4. Finishing the Planking Finally, was able to get back to planking this past week and I have finally finished it. Planking this boat has been a challenge and my key recommendation to everyone is to take your time to bend the planks to help reduce gaps. The Sheer Plank, I had to wet the sheer planks a few times to get the right vertical bend as well as to form it at the aft end. When I was forming them one of the challenges was the top of the plank kept wanting to bend over the edge of the deck which made it difficult to get the plank to butt up tight to the other plank and not ga
  5. Side Note: Most of us refer to our workspace as our Ship Yard, I was lucky enough to work in the Washington DC Navy Yard for a few years before I retired. It was really interesting working in one of the old buildings that had been preserved, as well as walking around and looking at all the old buildings and reading about them and what they were originally used for. The Yard also has a great museum that the public can access and I highly recommend to anyone to visit and just walk around, but first look up the history of the yard.
  6. The aft end of your planks look really good, much better than mine. I like the way you used a combo of rubber bands and clamps. I wish you had started your build before me, Great Job
  7. Will start mine when I’m done with the lobster smack, look forward in learning from your experience.
  8. Planking Life requirements got in the way of enjoyment of building models this past month, but I’m back to work on the planks. Planking this model continues the learning challenge, but I am gaining more knowledge that I can apply to future builds. Planking at the Bow end; the challenge with garboard plank at the bow was getting the bend in it and fitting it in the rabbet. To get the bend, I soaked the plank in hot water then clamped it down on the frames and let it dry. After the plank was dry, I dry fitted it in the fwd end and then started gluing the garboard from the bow to
  9. @GGibson I regard to frame 6, it looks like the port side is flush with the keel but the starboard looks like the bottom of frame 6 is not flush with the keel. if that is true, that could contribute to the problem. I did fair the top of my frames to try and help smooth the deck as it went from frame to frame. In the pictures below, you can see that on the port side, frame 6 sits a little higher too. As I mentioned in my build log I wished I would have spent a little more time fairing the tops, but I think in the end all will be good. Lesson learned.
  10. @GGibson The way I looked at the pictures in the instructions from page 15 to 17, the gap between the bulkhead frame and the deck is for the coaming and cabin sides to fit down into. I have not install them yet. The key thing is that you want the deck to go to the outside of the frames to eliminate sanding the frames down to be even with the deck. You can see the small gap I left between the deck and frames below. It was a lot of work to sand the frames down even wit the deck.
  11. @GGibson I built the Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat Wooden Model Ship prior to this model. The planking was easier then this model and I learned some good basics on planking from it. Overall the Longboat was easier then the lobster smack.
  12. Not being a sail boat expert but an engineer; a sheave is just a pulley. They can be hooked up exterior of the mast or imbedded in the mast or spar. On my pram, I painted the inside of my sheave cut brass to simulate a pulley and put nail heads on the side to simulate the pulley axel.
  13. @Cousin Teapot I sent you a message and some Pic's of the Stern Transom and Knee. The above picture is the bow transom. Good luck
  • Create New...