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SkiBee

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
  • Interests
    Travel, Hiking, Skiing, Golf, History (Civil War), Wood and plastic models

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  1. The nice thing about the 3 kits in the starter set is that they teach you so much, along with fixing our goofs. I made a lot of them, and on the Moscongus I really had a hard time learning to bend planks in multiple directions, wood filler was my friend on this model. You're doing great, hang in there.
  2. Well, another life got in the way of building. I glued the remaining fwd companionway to the deck. Now on to the chain plates. It was difficult to cut the holes into the railing but I only messed up one, but I need to move on. Not the happiest with them, if I was to do it over I would have the rail hang over the hull a little more.
  3. Instead of stripping off the paint, why not just use some wet sandpaper and get it smooth then repaint the whole area again.
  4. I started the Long Boat and while I was waiting for a replacement piece, I changed my mind and built the Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Combo Series. This series is a great way to learn some of the basic skills that you will need on future builds.
  5. Roger, Outstanding work for you second ship! Cisco is right, small does not equal easy. You might try the Model Shipways Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack as your second ship, it will give you some additional practice planking before the Armed Virginia Sloop. I started a solid hull as my follow-on to the Lobster Smack, a challenge in a different way then planking. Good luck in your next challenge.
  6. I started with a long boat and then switched to the 3 Model Expo kits recommended above. I'm glad I did; I learned a lot of things that built upon what I had just learned. I went back and finished the Long Boat and didn't make as many mistakes and was much more relaxed. As mentioned above, patience is a must as well as starting a build log on this website where you can ask questions and get great advice.
  7. I had the same experience, 40 years ago I started with a solid hull model and failed to get past step one. I've built a lot of plastic models but never went back to try a wood model, shaping a hull and the rigging intimidated me. A couple of years ago I decided to try my hand at wood models and saw an advertisement for Model Expo & Shipways models. I started with the Model Shipways 3 ship beginners set and they took me step by step and I learned a lot of skills and knowledge for a fair price. So much I tried my hand at a solid hull again and it's been successful so far. I highly recommend the Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Series. By the time you finish the 3rd boat, the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, you will have the skills to take on anything.
  8. I laid some double-sided tape on the deck and placed everything on the deck including the fife rail so that I could determine the best way to fit everything on the deck. Reduced the gap between the fife rail and skylight, as well as the gap between the aft companionway and the skylight where the stove pipe goes. But I still had a miss fit with t cockpit coaming. I considered many options to fit the coaming and settled on letting the coaming interface with the companionway a little further down the side of the companionway. But I still had to cut off the end of the coaming so it would fit correctly. In hindsight if I had checked the layout with the pieces before finishing them, I would have shortened the companionway and skylight. I also forgot to trace the outline of the coaming to make the seat out of wood or manila folder, so I'm just going to paint it a wood brown.
  9. I cut the out the wood for the companionways, wheel house and skylight, a fair amount of sanding off the tip of my fingers getting the roofs curved. Then I painted them an off white (cream). To build the skylight, I glued two pieces together then I painted the windows gloss black before adding the white window trim, which was left over 1/16 inch square strip painted white. I wish I had used a 1/8 inch strip on the bottom. I tried using pieces of manila folders for the roofs but I didn’t like the looks when they were done, so I used some of the left-over decking. It might not be to scale but I liked the looks better. I wetted the wood and then formed them on the roofs, using rubber bands to hold them. I did stain them with a mixture of Minwax weathered oak and light oak. I placed the on the deck and it looks like I have a space issue, in that giving enough room for the stove pipe, fife rail and the cockpit coaming, I need to back off a minute and determine how I’m going to solve this.
  10. I did the 3 Model Shipways kits since I had no experience with wooden models, built many plastic models but no wood. With each one I learned a lot and gained basic and mid modeling skills. I found the price very manageable. Recommend you look at a few build logs on this site for any model you might be interested in building before buying. Also, start a build log for anything you do, since you can ask others for help. The key is take your time, enjoy and realize that no one will notice any flaw but you, good modeling.
  11. Had to take a couple of months off again for other things. I repainted the black and green on the hull to cover up all the marks and scratches, looks better. I’m not going to follow the sequence of the instructions but build/install the deck wooden structures like the wheelhouse, companionways and skylight, plus the centerline hardware like traveler, cockpit, stove pipe and such next. In other wards install deck hardware from centerline out, to avoid breaking off the belaying pins and eyebolts. For the traveler, I used the thick gage wire that came with the kit. I made the top of the traveler out of a thin strip of wood instead of brass for the ease. Then I spray painted the traveler and the eye bolts flat black. It was difficult to work with the very small single block. At first, I was going to use thin wire to affix the block to the eyebolt, but I went with thread in the kit. I supper glued the thread to the top of the eyebolt and then down the side of the block. I tied it to the eyebolt before gluing in the eyebolt and the traveler. Then the tied the single block to the eyebolt that goes in front of the traveler.
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