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SkiBee

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  1. I spent some more time trying to clean up the excess glue on the planks and fine sand them. Also, I found that the Aft Transom Knee on the inside had pulled away from the keel plank, so I used alcohol to soften the glue where it was still glued to the aft transom and then re-glued so that it was in contact with both the transom and keel plank. Then I built and installed the Dagger Board Case, I ended up with about a 1/8 inch gap, fwd to aft, in the slot pre-cut in the keel plank. I double check the way I build the dagger board case and I think it was right, so I just used some wo
  2. I'm a beginner too, I started with the Lowell Grand Banks Dory and then started the 18th Century Long Boat by Model Shipways. After I finished the planking and some interior work I noticed that the Norwegian Sailing Pram had just become available and ordered it. I stopped my build of the 18th Century Long Boat and started the Pram. I wish I would have build the Pram before starting the Long Boat, I might have not made some of the mistakes I did. Please see and comment to my build log and I hope it helps you in your build of the Pram. I do recommend that you start a build log too, it is a
  3. Had to take a few days off for other non-important life maters, now back to what is important The Build. The rest of the planks went better than the garboard planks, but when I got to the sheer planks I found it easier to glue the forward end to the transom off the work platform. That way I could hold it while the glue set. You can see some wood putty on the edges of the garboard plank where I cut a little to much and off the edge when I was cutting the rabbet. I also have to work on getting the excess glue wiped off better in the future. I did soften the lumps of glue wit
  4. More mistakes on the Garboard planks, I could not dry fit the garboards prior to cutting the rabbet and beveling the other side of the plank. I was still waiting on the glue to set on the keel and bottom planks, to many clamps and rubber bands. This resulted in the error that I cut the rabbet and beveled the planks on the wrong side. I did not want to make new garboard planks and it appeared that the side plank fits nicely next to the garboard plank anyway. You can see that the angle on the end of the plank is going the wrong way to the transom. The good thing was the planks were long eno
  5. Thank you all for your input. Kurt, I was wondering after I cut the full length rabbet if it was just on the end. It's great to have a place to go to get help.
  6. HELP, does anyone have recommendations on how to cut a rabbit into planks without cutting thru the plank and chiseling to deep. I was not happy with the results of cutting the rabbit into the garboard planks. I first used a angle blade to cut the depth of the line then used a chisel blade to chisel out the rabbit to the cut line. In a number of areas I cut all the way through the plank when I was cutting width line and then I chiseled to deep past the cut or took out to much. So my rabbits were all over the place.
  7. I did bevel the two bottom planks to the etched line. I bent the bottom and keel planks around a large margarita glass but then when I went to dry fit on the build board it was way too much of a curve. So, I had to weigh them down on a flat surface overnight which took out most of the bend. I found it easier to set the curve by wetting the plank and rubber band it to the transoms and mold frames. However, in the areas without a mold board, it resulted in a extra bend down, see picture below where I circled the bend. I’m hoping that when I glue the keel and garboard planks to the bottom pl
  8. Fwd & Aft Transoms: These seemed straight forward but when it came time to glue the knees on, I wasn’t sure from the instructions did the short or long end of the knee get glued to the transoms. I did look at the full scale plans on page 3 and it looked like the short ends went next to the transoms. The lines on the outside of the fwd transom did help in sanding the fairing bevel. The aft transom was a little more of a challenge to bevel, it appeared from the lines on the aft face of the transom indicated different amount of bevel as you went from the
  9. This is kind of my second build, I finished the ‘Lowell Grand Banks Dory’ and got about half way through the ‘18th Century Long Boat’ both by Shipways when I decided to shift to this boat the ‘Norwegian Sailing Pram’. This is the second in a beginner series of “progressive model tutorials” designed by David Antscherl. I did learn a lot about wooden ships and how to build wooden models from the Dory. I decided to shift sails when I noticed that the Pram was finally for sale by Model Shipways and I thought I could use the additional learning experience especially rigging. The Long Boat rigg
  10. Thanks for the input it was very helpful! I did use Testor’s Dullcote on both sides of the frieze as a protective coat, then I used my wife’s mod-podge (essentially water downed white glue) to glue the frieze to the boat. Both worked very well. Next, I made the hinges and mast retainer. I glued both with white glue but I was concerned about the mast retainer not being strong enough so I put some supper glue on as a overlay and fillet. I made it a little shiny but later I’ll spray the whole boat with a matte finish which should dull it. Then I
  11. Cap Rail: This was a challenge to try cut it to a form as close to the end product as possible, still ended up sanding to size quite and bit. Based on my poor cutting to size of the platforms I took more time. I should have tried a template to see if that had helped, but I was ok with the end product. Also, used filler to fill in the cap at the bow next to the stem, I wasn’t worried to much since it would get painted red. I painted the outside edge of the Cap Rail white but I covered it up when I painted the top of the rail red. Maybe, I will try tape off the top of the rail next time
  12. Ryland & VTHokiee, I ended up using "Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler" to fill the gaps since I have used it on larger projects and it sands, takes stain and paints well. Plus it comes in a small container. (VTHokiee, great school, I lived in Springfield, VA for ten years and had some great co-workers and neighbors that were Hokiee's) I installed the Floorboards and Platforms next, not the Cap Rail and frieze. I wanted to build the platforms and then stain the hull, floorboards and platforms all at the same time without the cap rail. There were gaps between the hul
  13. Does anyone have a recommendation on what to use to fill mistakes? I would like to stain the repair.
  14. Planking the model: In general, the planking went well except two errors that I learned from. First, I laid down the garboard and shear planks and one additional plank next to them. Then I tried to determine the number of planks and started to adjust the width of the remaining planks. I followed the recommendations in this website on how to determine the width of the planks and installed the next three planks after trimming them to a reduced width, from bottom up. But as I tried to continue to determine the width I came to the conclusion I should have followed the instructions and started
  15. I looked at Justin P’s build on this web site and decided to cut the fwd end of the garboard plank in a curve taper. Also, I tried to bend a second plank around a straight diagonal cut and it didn’t bend smoothly, so I went with the curve cut. Decided on a ¾ in. cut, after bending a plank on a small French curve, it seemed to be the smoothest curve length. It appeared to be a good choice as I continued to plank. I also used the small French curve as a jig to bend the remaining planks, worked grate! I knew I saved my old high school drafting tools for a reason and my old wo
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