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SkiBee

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
  • Interests
    Travel, Hiking, Skiing, Golf, History (Civil War), Wood and plastic models

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  1. Gluing the deck halves was a real challenge trying not to have a big gap between halves but still have the outside deck edge out to the edge of the frames. I decided to glue the middle area first then work to the bow and stern, this way I could try and get some bend in the deck halves where it was a little narrower. I did have to wet the deck to glue the middle section, but did when I moved to the bow and stern. The deck did not overlap the transom as much as the instruction’s pictures indicate, so I think I’m going to sand the transom vertically to the deck. I
  2. Ed at Model Expo wrote back, “The transom pieces were changed a bit after I built my model because the tabs weren't right, but the sizes weren't changed. You have to make them flush on top.” I did clarify he meant the transom should be flush with the spine. I needed to remove almost 1/4 inch from the top of the transom to be flush with the spine. I used a sanding stick since I was concerned about breaking the top of the transom using anything else. It took quite a long time but I got it down, see below pictures. I would recommend cutting the top of the outside part of
  3. I installed the cockpit floor and seats, but I made a mistake in not catching that I did not install the floor flat, mine curved up as it went aft. This led me to install the side seat risers flat (low) instead of wider side vertical. The below picture shows the results, at first, I was going to leave as is but as I looked at it more it did not look right to have the side seats slope fwd. I used some alcohol to loosen the glue on the floor, seats and risers. I could not get the risers loose so I decided to shim the seats once I re-glued the floor. As I was trying to loosen the risers, I b
  4. I’ve installed all the bulkhead frames, a couple of points on my approach. The shims worked well on all the frames except 1, 9 and 10. On Frame 1, I should have fit checked it prior to gluing, the shimming was a little to thick for the frame and I broke off one side of the frame. I still think you should shim the frame if you had the same problem that I did but fit check more as you go in case you have to thin the shims. Frame 9, the frame only comes into contact with a small space at the top and bottom of the spine. I only shimmed the top, but when I glued it in, I did not alig
  5. JohnN, Yes I had to shim all of them except frame #4. Edit: I did not have to shim Frame 10 and I shimmed Frame 1 a little to much, see below.
  6. Have been exchanging emails and photos with Model Expo over the past number of days. The parts manager built a pre-production version of the Lobster Smack and did not have the problems I did, all his frames fit fine. Below is a pic of his left-over laser sheet from the frames, he said it resulted in a frame gap of 5/32 and it fit ‘OK’. Below are pic’s of some of my frames, I put them back into the laser sheet. You can see that I measure 3/16 inch, which resulted in a 1/16 inch total gap. He did say that the frames should fit next to the spine without a gap. Model Expo
  7. Model Shipways/Model Expo decided to send me a knew hull, thanks to them. While I'm waiting for the new hull I decided to shift my efforts to building the MS Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, which is the 3rd in their new tutorial series for new bee builders.
  8. @JohnN THANKS for the input, I was going to do what you recommended with some left over 1/32 in strips, but I wanted to hear from Model Shipways if the frames are suppose to be gapped at the bottom or not. I also thought about reducing reinforcing piece B, but I was concerned if there was a reason it was the width it was or not. @jlefever THANKS for info, I knew I should have bought a pair of 'jeweler's' needle nose pliers.
  9. Bulkhead Frames The only problem with gluing the reinforcing pieces was the ‘B’ piece on the starboard side interfered with the hook of the brass rod at the center board which prevented the full operation of raising and lowering the center board. So I had to cut out a 1/16 inch notch in the ‘B’ reinforcing piece. It took some time and looking at all the pictures in the instructions to identify the bulkhead frames. The etched numbers were missing on some of the bulkheads. If the instructions included a scale diagram of the model frame like many other models, it would solve a
  10. I tried to bend the brass bar without annealing it first, did not work at all well, so I went and bought a micro-torch. Heated the brass bar up on an old ceramic tile which worked very well to insulate and prevent damage to anything else. The bar now bends well. I am finding out that my small needle nose pliers do not have small enough tips for this small kind of work. My initial effort to make the eye resulted in to small of an eyelet to insert a tooth pick as a handle, so I had to pry it open and make it bigger. Finding out that you should only heat up the amount of rod that you wil
  11. As I was finishing up the MS 18th Century Longboat, I noticed that the “third in a series of progressive model tutorials” by David Antscherl became available. My first build was the MS ‘Lowell Grand Banks Dory’ and it was a great learning experience. Then I built the MS ‘Norwegian Sailing Pram’ which was the second model in the series, it to was a great learning tool. So now I’m going to try the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack based on a positive experience with the first two of the tutorial series. I inventoried the contents of the box and all of the parts appear to be there, except
  12. I started to reduce the keel to 1/8 inch thick but I wanted to check midship template to see how much I should remove around the keel. However, I noticed a problem, there was a gap on the starboard side when I held the template centered on the top and bottom centerline. The gap between the side of the hull and the template was a little more than a 1/16 inch. Also, there was a gap between the top of the hull and the template a little less than a 1/16 inch. The port side was a fair match to the template. I measured the beam at midship and it matches the plans. I can’t move the keel cen
  13. I’ve been working on the aft end of the boat; cutting, chiseling and sanding with 80 grit paper. I was having a hard time whittling or chiseling with a blade, so I tried to file it with an old wood rasp I had (it was old, over 50 years old) but it was too large for the job. So, I went back to 80 grit sand paper. The instructions said that you might have to remove about an 1/8 inch from the aft. I only removed about a 1/8 inch to get it close to the template. I think I will wait until I have the sides of the hull close to template before I reduce it any more in the aft, as I’m doing for th
  14. So, I’m going to try my hand at a solid hull, it’s a little scary since I’m not a very good whittler. About 20 years ago I bought a wooden boat model that was a solid hull and I could never get it started since I had no clue on how to finish the hull. This is actually the second model I bought, but I kept putting off to gain more overall experience by building the MS Grand Banks Dory, Norwegian Pram and the 18th Century Longboat. Reading build logs about this boat made it a little less intimidating so here it goes. I have learned that it is important to inventor
  15. Finished, I did enjoy this build and learned a lot about planking and rigging. I am glad that I built the Grand Banks Dory and the Norwegian Pram prior to this boat, but it is a good third boat to build since you learn additional skills in planking and rigging. It was not easy for a novice but well worth the challenge. My biggest challenge was working with the small size with by fat and clumsy fingers especially rigging and tying knots. Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions, they did help, please keep it up especially for us beginners. I’m torn to start as
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