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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Jeff the smaller deadeyes are either a 3.5mm or 4mm. I don’t remember. I have a supply of both. My Victory is in a display case and it would be difficult to get to the deadeyes to get an exact measurement. I think more likely 3.5mm. Check your email when you get a chance. I attempted to email you a fantastic spreadsheet Ian made up that lists all the thread sizes you will use for each line by name and block sizes as well. Hope you can open the link.
  2. Bill97
    Jeff I need to check my supply to see what size they are. Will let you know as soon as possible
  3. Bill97
    Jeff I used 5mm wood deadeyes for my shrouds.
  4. Bill97
    Good morning Jeff. I found your build and will enjoy watching it go together. As Ian said, always enjoy following a Victory build. There is so much available here on MSW from other builders to help you. I teased with Ian that I was going to put his name on my Victory name plate as a co-builder! 😊. You should definitely take advantage of it. Again let me recommend Longridge’s book.
  5. Bill97
    Great JEFFRAV. I will look for it.
  6. Bill97
    Sure JEFFRAV feel free to PM anytime. This is definitely paying it forward. I am sure I wore out several builders while I built mine. Do you have Longridge’s book? A definite must when you get to the rigging especially if your Victory kit came with the older version instructions. Below is the wire I ordered from Amazon. Reference Lamar and his contact negotiation, I look for information on the Raven’s web site all the time. We will see. I thought the Raven’s were in route to a possible championship earlier in the season before he got hurt.
  7. Bill97
    Thanks Kevin for your comment. I do feel a lot more self assured now building the Soleil Royal than I was at this stage of my Victory build. I learned so much from you guys during that build. I was so pensive about each and every step because I had no idea what I was doing and learned as I went along. That often resulted in me having to undo a step and fix it once you guys patiently explained how it was supposed to be done. Fortunately with this build I have continued to read through several builds and have a general plan as to where I want to go, and now understand the nautical terms along with the how and why. The hull of the Soleil Royal is much more ornamental than the Victory hull and as such will require more artistic rendering. But except for some additional enhancements I decided to include, it is pretty straightforward as to knowing my desired outcome. Now actually getting there is another story 😊 I think I have just about made it through my Covid battle. Did not loose to much taste. My main symptom has been congestion and cough. Pretty much spent the equivalent cost of a new car on over the counter medication to get through it. I also continue to check in on your Cutty Sark adventure. Always fascinating to see what you can do with your 3D printer.
  8. Bill97
    JEFFRAV I apologize for just now seeing your post from the other day. I am using a 24g brass wire and blackening. I selected a piece of stronger wire a bit bigger gauge than the brass wire to bend to the shape you see in the photo. I needed something stronger so it would not bend while I was twisting the eyebolt. Not exactly sure what gauge it is. Not a lot bigger than the brass. PS. Got to get Lamar Jackson back healthy and on the field for the Ravens. He is my hometown quarterback doing good in the NFL! 😊
  9. Bill97
    I have continued the process of adding gold leaf to the port side UB. Picked up a few technique ideas doing the gold leaf on the SB side that I am now applying to the port side. Will post photos of the two finished UBs soon. Will then very carefully mount them to the hull and the bulkhead beakhead.
  10. Bill97
    Thanks Ian.
  11. Bill97
    They are going to look great displayed together some day!
  12. Bill97
    Today I applied gold leaf to the freize and hatch enhancements on the starboard upper bulwark. I then dry fitted it in place while I work on the port side upper bulwark.
  13. Bill97
    Thanks guys for your comments! Very much appreciated.
  14. Bill97
    Well unfortunately I have been struck with the Covid virus. I guess I picked it up on my trip out west even though I wore a mask on the planes. Fortunately I have not been real sick from it. About two rough days and then steady improvement since. As a result I am quarantined to the house for bit. What better time to work in the “ship yard”! I got the starboard UB painted and the enhancements I molded for the hatches glued on. I am going to gold leaf these enhancements along with all the other ornamentation on the UB. I put a coat of gold paint on all the items that will be gold leafed as well. That way if any little specs are small pieces of leaf chip off it won’t be noticeable with the gold paint underneath. As I may have mentioned before I intend to display my SR from the port side. This painting of the starboard UB will rarely be seen by anyone unless I move the display case the ship will eventually go in. My goal in how I position the ship in the case is to accentuate the stern when people first see it. The same idea I had for the Victory. With this being my plan, the painting and adding the enhancements on the starboard side allows me a little practice and fine tuning of my methods before I start the port UB which will be in full view for all to see any blemishes.
  15. Bill97
    Henry after getting your recommendation about the knee I decided to go back and move the eyebolts I already installed on the port side next to the knees and put them all uniformly in the knee on the side of the hatch. Now both sides match and all eyebolts are in the knees. Had to putty the previous holes. Will sand and touch up those spots. Turned them over and just looking at all the gold painting and gold leaf in my future! 😳 Will be a slow gradual labor of love. Henry you may notice the little purple blobs at the top of a couple of the pictures. That is the Easy Mold you recommended. I am casting the hatch enhancements 8 at a time.
  16. Bill97
    Installed the eyebolts to rig the visible cannons on the port side UB. I counted 14 cannons that will be visible. Installed 4 eyebolts for each. At the front I did not think the eyebolts would have been installed in the rail for strength reasons so I placed them in a straight horizontal line. Per Henry’s recommendation, where the eyebolt came in contact with the support knee I put the eyebolt straight into the knee. Will need to go back and touch up the shinny CA glue spots once thoroughly dry.
  17. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. That’s an idea
  18. Bill97
    Blackened a whole bunch of my brass eyebolts and getting ready to install them along the UBs at the hatches and openings where visible cannons will be. I immediately notice at the lower deck where there is the knee shaped supports for the walkway above, these supports are flush with one side of the hatch. I assume the eyebolts go into the bulkhead on the other side of the support? There is only one where this will be tricky.
  19. Bill97
    Have the upper bulwarks painted red on the inside and my blue on the outside. They are dry fitted in the picture. Now to begin the process of painting the lines and the gun hatches gold, and applying gold leaf to all the enhancements and ornamentation. I am having an inner debate on when to do all the gold leaf. Do I want to do it while I have the UBs off the ship and laying flat on my table? Same time I paint all the gold? Or do I want to paint the gold, install the UBs, and then do all the gold leaf? I know the gold leaf application would be easier with the UB’s off the ship. However I also know they will get an abundance of handling and clamping when attaching them to the ship. Handling and/or clamping that could damage the gold leaf. If I lay the ship on its side after the UBs are attached to do the gold leaf I will have to be concerned about all the cannons protruding that could break off and be lost forever inside the ship, and deal with the hull wanting to rock while I am trying to apply the leaf. It will take me a while to get all the gold painted so I have time for the internal debate.
  20. Bill97
    Back from California and in the shipyard again. Painted the inside of the upper bulwarks red and set them aside to thoroughly dry. I will then begin the task of preparing the front side to be painted blue. I have a bit of tedious work around the balusters with getting a sharp blue on the sides and front, and red on the back. In the meantime I have begun making a bazillion eyebolts for rigging the cannons that will show. I want to put the eyebolts into the side of the upper bulwarks before I eventually glue the bulwarks in place. Doing this now should make the task of drilling and gluing a bit easier. From what I can make out in the photos I see, an authentic rigging of the cannons requires 4 eyebolts in the upper bulwarks at each hatch or opening. Two on each side. I will be making many more that will be later attached to the cannons and n the deck behind the cannons to complete the cannon rigging.
  21. Bill97
    While I have been away from the “ship yard” I have been thinking about my future painting of the upper bulwarks. I know the color scheme I am going to use. I would really like to be able to airbrush the red I am going to use on the inside and the blue on the outside because I get a much better looking coverage than I do with a brush. I know if I want to airbrush I will need to do some tricky masking. I also have to guard against the blue going through and getting on the red inside and vice versa. I will be painting the rails, circular openings, and lines gold. I will also be applying gold leaf to the decorations. I know I will need to use a very tiny brush for some of the work. This is going to be fun working out the logistics of this painting.
  22. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. Appreciate your nudging me to finally get it right, or at least acceptable! They will ultimately be gilded with gold leaf once I cast a bunch of them.
  23. Bill97
    Ok I think I now have the upper enhancement I am going to use! The blue color on the UB is just Vallejo blue surface primer that will be under my blue paint later.
  24. Bill97
    First attempt is not terrible but does need refinement! Will continue to hone it in or decide to just skip this added enhancement! 😀
  25. Bill97
    Kevin the epoxy is not brittle at all. The product I have produces a casting the consistency a gummy, maybe a little firmer. It picks up all the details of the mold and very easy to trim away excess. However I would not think it would be conducive to sanding or a file.

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