Bill97
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Marc I am up to page 55 reading through your blog. I see in the photo that you went ahead and attached the pieces shown in the photo to the inside of the upper bulwark. Was that simply for convenience? I also see you added the eyebolts to later rig he cannons. Brilliant!
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Thanks Henry I will look on line for the larger styrene.
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Just noticed I am at page 11 already and I am just into the hull and decks! 😳 I must be asking way to many questions and asking for too much help, or otherwise I am just posting to much.
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Henry I looked back at your build for reference again. In post #45 way back in 2013 you show making your filler for that open space and the head timbers. I added a couple of your photos but not all the ones in that post. Hope you consider it a compliment that I want to copy what you did! Would you care to tell me your process to make these parts? As you said above I will need to mount the two parts before I make the insert, so I can understand how I will need to trace the shape I guess. No idea, and impressed, with how you finalized the head temper shape. How thick is the sheet styrene? Not seen it that thick at my craft store. I ordered the product shown in your picture to make the ornamentation once I get the parts made. Thanks Again Henry Hope you don’t mind my asking your advice. Bill
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Ian and Henry you both raise the same issue which makes since. I plan to try to do exactly what you did Henry. Hope I can come close. Thanks. Bill
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One reinforced dry fitted bowsprit. I put the dial rod in my drill and held it in a piece of course sandpaper to taper it to the desired shape. I then added CA glue to the inside of each side of the bowsprit and plastic cement along the edges. Then pressed it together with the dial rod inside. A test fit on the ship and this piece will be ready for further use.
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Decided to assemble and work on parts in the bow area. According to the instructions that is where I am supposed to go next anyway. Attaching the UB is still down the road a ways. On the previous page I was to put the two sections of the bowsprit together so that is my current mission. I always like to reinforce the bowsprit, and later the masts with wood, with wood rods so I will do that before gluing the halves together. The pieces have some pretty substantial molded waste areas inside I need to remove before I can fit the sanded down rod to taper and fit. I got out my handy dandy nail decorator which is a little more delicate than my Dremel might be in a his area. For future reference so I won’t need to bug you guys with another question. Do you know if there would be a problem with assembling steps #35-39 off the ship and put on in one piece? I want to fill the blank space between parts in 35 and 37 with a piece I make similar to the way you guys did. Seems as if that may be easier to do as one piece off the ship.
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I will tinker with this to get a satisfactory final result. Ian I am close to hitting a slow down. I am really not sure where t go next. I want to add additional molded ornamentation to the bulwarks but I need to get my ordered my materials to do that, and practice. I am guessing any additions should be put on before starting my painting? I still want to make the boat skids. I could work on them. I could also begin working at the bow area. I know the upper bulwarks go on after the beakhead bulkhead so I may begin studying what bashing, if any, I may need to do to it. Along with that I could build my bowsprit and the whole bow section. I know I want to fill in the empty area in the knee as everyone recommends doing, so that is an area I could approach next. Many areas to tinker with. Where to look next? 😊
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Finished adding the Evergreen to the top of the Upper Bulwarks based on Marc’s recommendation. I ran into an issue with adding the Evergreen to the highest part of the back Upper Bulwark. The little piece of deck on the stern end comes up very close to the top edge of the end of the upper bulwark and does not leave much room for adding an Eveegreen strip. Will have to give this some thought.
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Marc I really like the molded rigols you have above each of the UB cannon hatches. That is an addition I want to try molding for my SR. Did you carve the the shape to cast the mold from or did you find the shape somewhere to make the mold? That is very precise.
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Thanks John. I appreciate your response and information. Hope all is well with your family member. I discovered the same thing you did n the 2mm blocks availability. I went ahead and ordered 2.5mm and will try to make them look OK. I may eliminate the hooks and just tie the blocks to the deck eyebolts. That should give a bit more space. And as Ian said no one without a magnifying glass will know.
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It was not to difficult. I used an exacto knife with a new sharp point blade. The he plastic is real thick so it does not take long to cut through it. You have to be extra careful around the molded figures.
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Thanks Marc. I found the product Kevin used to mold his additional ornaments. Order the mold making product and the resin product to use in the mold. Looking forward to experimenting with this new idea. I removed all the plastic belay pins on the 4 upper bulwarks (quite a few were broken off already), and drilled holes for new steel pins. I test inserted all the pins. I will remove them before I start painting and then glue them in adjusting their length to be uniform. This will be great when I start the rigging. Marc I got .030 Evergreen to widen the rails. I have also cut out the 3 upper openings on the side galleries. I saved the cut outs to possibly use on the upper bulwarks.
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Anxious to see some of the photos. I read through this blog over and over. I see where you used Easy Mold years ago to make ornamentation. Trying to understand how it works. I looked it up online. I understand using the substance to press onto what you wanted to mold to get the design, but then what do you put into the mold to get the final product? Does Easy Mold come with an additional product you put into the hardened mold to get your finished ornament?
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Marc this picture you added makes it much clearer now. I see exactly what you are explaining, especially how you framed the rail balusters (don’t know the nautical term). That must be really small Evergreen. There is so much in that photo I really like. There is so much in that photo that is causing me to take a pause on my painting and gold leafing plan. I see where you and Henry of molded ornamentation for addition to the model. What product do you use for that. I am really interested in that.
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Oh no Marc, you are definitely not being a pain in the xxxx. I hope I am not being a pain in the xxxx with all my questions. This is the exact information I am looking for. Especially the size of the Evergreen to use. I think the piece I have in the photo is .8. Definitely too big. The skids are an excellent idea as well. Loving this build! 😊 Bill
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Ok Marc I am looking at my bulwarks and the pictures of your’s. In the photo I attached I am holding a piece of Evergreen up to the edge of the rail. This Evergreen is the same dimension of the molded rail so it basically doubles the rail thickness. I know I need to fashion it around the circular ports but just to get an idea of Evergreen size. You say not to widen the waist rail. Check. Got that. In your photo it appears you also put smaller dimension Evergreen on each side of the rail baluster? And framed on the front side? Is that correct? I see the thin white stripe on each side and at the top. Also in your pictures on the front side of the bulwark I see vertical white stripes next to the hatches in the waist area and a couple horizontal white stripes as well. What am I seeing? This is where I thoroughly enjoy the assistance you guys give me. I obviously want to get all the bashing done on the bulwarks before I touch a drop of paint. Thanks Bill
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So you guys ran Evergreen almost the full length along the tops of the bulwarks? Mine has a narrow section as I showed in the picture and thicker either side of that section. I was thinking I only needed to do that section to make it uniform. Wonder if yours is molded the same way. Does it make the rail really thick?
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Thanks Marc and Kevin. This is the kind of advice I need.
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All advice is appreciated Ian. I will work with all the different options.
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Marc I checked my instructions and it has me put the beakhead, then the bulwark pairs, then the stern plate. You recommend the beakhead then the stern plate and then the bulkhead pairs. Is the area of the top on the forward bulwark shown in the photo where it is recommended I fill in with Evergreen to make a solid rail?
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Marc what is your opinion about once I am happy with the four bulwark pieces I go ahead and glue the halves together and fix the seam joint where they meet before starting the painting? Otherwise once I have them painted and mounted I will need to repair the joint which I think will not be as good. Also I plan to replace the 21 belay pins along the rails with steel pins. Many of mine are already broke off.
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Is this one of the fit you guys are talking about? This is the port rear UB. It is not perfect but not as bad as I was expecting. Will need little bit of putty and sanding under three of three of the hatches for the exterior view and and a little along the seam on the interior back to the second window after which it goes under the next deck. Will see how the next 3 pieces look.
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