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Bill97

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Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    The spirketting us definitely the way to cover the ugly seam.
  2. Bill97
    You are right Ian. Karate Kid was Daniel and Mr. Miyagi. Wax on and wax off. I do remember Kung Fu. That is where Grasshopper came from. Boy! You are taking us back a few years 😀. I am just a bit older than you. You said you were in your teens in the 70s. I was in my 20s and just started wearing my Army uniform.
  3. Bill97
    👍 Who would have thought I would start thinking and reacting like a real model ship builder? 😀
  4. Bill97
    Marc you mean I am actually starting to think like you? 😊 You are finally starting to rub off on “Grasshopper”! Karate Kid reference.
  5. Bill97
    Had some trouble getting a satisfactory puttied and sanded UB seam on the inside. If I had it to do over I probably would not have installed four belay rack (non nautical term) things in each side before gluing the UB in place. On one hand it was good to have a plastic to plastic glue weld, but on the other hand it made it virtually impossible to putty and satisfactorily sand the seam. I added additional strips of Evergreen between the cannon hatches in the sections that will not be seen because of decks above. In the center section that will be exposed I ultimately decided to cover the seam with a basic Evergreen baseboard like you would find in your home. A 4mm strip covers the seam and provides some additional glue surface. It will result in the cannon trucks being set inboard just a slight extra bit. In the photo the pieces are dry fitted. I will take them out, paint them red and then glue them in. That way I do not need to mask my deck.
  6. Bill97
    Spent some time fine tuning the UB seam inboard and outboard. The inboard seam took a bead of putty I will sand and repaint. Dry fitted all my deck sections which appear to fit snugly and with out issue. Plan to fabricate knees and beams to support each. Also continued adding gold paint to the stern plate. I am painting everything with a gold enamel that will be gold when the build is finished. The decorations will later be covered with gold leaf. The reason for painting gold first is to hide any chipping or flaws in the gold leaf application. Also made additional barrel hatch enhancements that I will add to the bottom of a number of the hatches in the UB. Will need to see which hatches will have the bottom edge blocked by the channels.
  7. Bill97
    Yeah Marc I saw that in your build. I have the exact one you have (same brand). Had it for years using it in my furniture construction. Fantastic little tool. As far as maring my paint, I would probably need to scratch a fine line off anyway to get good bare plastic for the skid to stick to. Just can’t decide.
  8. Bill97
    As my shift at the “shipyard” came to a close today I thought I would peek at the stern plate before I clocked out. A good day today finishing the UBs and installing them to the hull. Finished up adding a bit of gold to the stern.
  9. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. Once I feel sure the glue weld is solid I will start the process of fine tuning everything. A little touch up here, a little gap filling there, etc. I feel pretty sure I am going to make hatch enhancements to go below the hatches as you did and I keep going back and forth on the skids. I know you did them as two separate pieces (the hull section and the UB section). If I do make them they will obviously just be one complete piece. Still not sure. Don’t know if I can get them to look as good as your’s. I would rather not add skids to the sides of the ship that look real amateur both in design and fit. Would rather maybe just add some rope or other idea going up the sides of the steps as I have seen other builders do. Will maybe tinker with some prototypes to see how good of a fit I can get.
  10. Bill97
    Port side UB glued in. Do not have the small gap on the port side at the beakhead bulkhead. Forecastle deck dry fitted in place and to appears to fit snuggly. I think all is good. I do have about a 1/16” gap on the inside at the front and back, with the gap much thinner in the center where it will be visible. I will need to fill, sand, and touch up the gaps as well. The only way I could have prevented these gaps would have been to shave down the top of the wale, which I did not want to do.
  11. Bill97
    Starboard UB glued in place. Only took 3 clamps to hold it in place and tape at the bulkhead. Do notice I have a small gap at the beakhead bulkhead I will need to fill sand and touch up. I could not slide the UB any further forward to close the gap because the five hatches at the back of the UB have a notch they fit in on top of the wale. I appear to have an adequate amount of glue squeeze out to confirm I have a solid joint. Will see after I let it set for a while. Fingers crossed. Then to the port side if no issues. Ian in fact scraped the paint off the top of the wale in hopes it would improve my bare plastic to plastic joint. Did not know if paint on top the wale would decrease the strength of my joint. Henry that is a great idea for my wayward anchor rope. Still no idea how it came untied and pulled out. Retied the one still in extra tight.
  12. Bill97
    This is the view of the port side UB just setting there dry fitted. No clamps. May be a good sign.
  13. Bill97
    Thanks guys. Appreciate your kind words. I read in a number of your builds that attaching the UBs can be a challenge because of the stress on the curve. Mine just set perfectly in place during dry fitting. Hopefully this is a good sign. Will definitely update once completed. Wish me luck.
  14. Bill97
    After much ado I have finished making the new resin hatch enhancements and replaced the gummy enhancements already on the UB. Then I applied gold leaf to the enhancements and the decorations between the cannon hatches. I think I am about ready to the UBs to the hull. Have a new “oh curse word” I need to figure out a way to fix. Even though I am sure I had it tied in a knot, I somehow accidentally pulled one of my anchor ropes out. With the deck in I can no longer easily access the holes.
  15. Bill97
    Wow! Kevin. I dropped by to see how your build is going. Had no idea you had your ankle fused. Hope you heal quickly and have less pain now from the arthritis. As always I continue to be very very impressed with your CS build.
  16. Bill97
    I got a little tickled when I saw the 6 👍 for my last post. Apparently all my MSW friends agree I need to get the gummy garbage off my ship 😀.
  17. Bill97
    Starting a rather big do over! Since I began casting the many different enhancements I have been adding to the ship I have been less than pleased with the product I was making. All of my different castings were coming out like a stale gummy. They were not hard enough to do a final carve or shape with a knife or sand paper. They were just flexible. For the many enhancements I made for the top of the cannon hatches I did the best I could gold leafing and gluing a gummy above each hatch. Never was completely satisfied! After doing some research and talking with someone who does a lot of resin casting I came to the conclusion I was being my own worst enemy. I was doing everything wrong during the resin mixing process. I was informed I needed to warm the two ingredients to at least 70 degrees, mix the exact same amount of the two ingredients (don’t guess with a tea spoon), and do not use was covered mixing cups. All 3 of these instructions I was not doing correctly. After experimenting with the newly acquired knowledge I got a hard resin cast. Exactly what I have wanted all along. I am now in the process of casting the sections I cut out of the side galleries that will be glued to the hull and UB inside the opening in the galleries. I am also redoing all the hatch enhancements. I need to remove all the gummy’s and replace them with the new hard gold leafed ones.
  18. Bill97
    Great game against Northwestern yesterday!
  19. Bill97
    Disregard the part of my comment above where I ask about doors. After close examination of the stern plate I see there are a number of doors molded into the plastic.
  20. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. I will definitely study this a while before I attempt attaching the UBs. I have finished painting and gold leafing the UBs and have set them aside for now. I want to attach to the stern end the molded decorative enhancements I cut out of the side galleries. Instead of trying to sand away the back plastic so just the decoration remains I will probably just make a mold and cast new pieces to attach to the UB. I initially only opened up the top 3 “windows” but now I am seriously thinking of opening the bottom 3 as well. I would then make casts of all 6 enhancements and attach them to the appropriate place on the hull and UB. I clearly see if I do the bottom 3 I will need to repaint the rear portion of my hull the same blue in the area behind the side galleries. I will also need to fabricate decking for both levels inside the side galleries. Would there have been doors that opened for the side galleries from inside the ship?
  21. Bill97
    As I am getting close to finishing the painting and guilding the upper bulwarks I am reviewing back through other builds, especially your’s Marc, to see the best way to properly secure them to to the top edge of the hull and the beakhead bulkhead. Marc I see in one of your photos you used a series of clamps with deep throats that would reach over the top of the UB and down to the joint. This I am sure provided excellent clamping for a secure and satisfactory joining of the long length of the hull and UB. Unfortunately I do not have many clamps with that deep of a throat. If necessary i will purchase a bunch but curious in the absence of such clamps what have others done ?
  22. Bill97
    Great Jeff. Enjoy the game and your visit.
  23. Bill97
    Jeff the smaller deadeyes are either a 3.5mm or 4mm. I don’t remember. I have a supply of both. My Victory is in a display case and it would be difficult to get to the deadeyes to get an exact measurement. I think more likely 3.5mm. Check your email when you get a chance. I attempted to email you a fantastic spreadsheet Ian made up that lists all the thread sizes you will use for each line by name and block sizes as well. Hope you can open the link.
  24. Bill97
    Jeff I need to check my supply to see what size they are. Will let you know as soon as possible
  25. Bill97
    Jeff I used 5mm wood deadeyes for my shrouds.

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