NAZGÛL

Fantastic result mate, this will be a superb modelt!
 
Of your ongoing builds, do you have any favourite?
 
/Matti

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Wow, great work! That planking and stern is awesome! 
 
I also painted my cannons:
 

 
First sprayed a layer with paint that grips well on metal, then acrylics.
 
 
 
/Matti
 
 

Finally ready for a quick update , work time has been scarce but i have been working at the galleries and hope it has been worth it .My resent obcession with buying a new saw was partly brought on by trying to cut the strips for window frames ,it,s hard to get them even cutting with a blade !!! So finished my last one to-night although looking at the pics i may have to redo a few but will decide after cleaning up and varnishing , it,s been like a small model on it,s own , Think i might order brass scrolls etc as those provided are crap ,if they had been anything only ply i could maybe have done something with them but you get what you pay for !!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Winter arrives this weekend so hopefully more build progress 

Very nice project to follow Vivian! I like the aproach to darken the wodd before building it. It will give you great control. How does the wax work with ca and wood glue?
 
Jack that is a very cool thing to do, hats off to you!
 
 
/Matti

Update time... Things have not been quiet in the shipyard.
 
I laminated the plans to some MDF and attached a strip of wood at the reference line.  Also attached the stern framing to this so as not to mis-read any critical dimension.

 
The strip allows me to use the Ed Tool without any induced errors from having it canted slightly.

 
I've marked all the plans with appropriate reference marks and rescanned them all.  Also broke up Version 1.0 in order salvage certain bits..  like everything along the centerline... bitts, grates, pin rails, pumps, capstan, etc., some or all of the deck beams but none of the deck planking.   Also salvaged the mast steps and the stern framing.  I'll use the stern framing for some references.

 
I'm currently cutting out with as much precision as I can muster, a new build board.  I noted that on the old one, there were some frame notches that we either too deep or not deep enough.  Stupidity on my part.  I'll be re-using the previous version of the frame squaring jig (on the right in the picture).

 
Hopefully, in the next week or so, I can start cutting the keel, deadwood, and stem.  Since the wood for framing won't be here until early May, I'm planning on building some sub-assemblies such as most of the deck furniture.   I've located a local source of good birch plywood,  and am considering Woodcraft or the local source for masting materials and some other items.

Hi Jack,
 
Just checking in Jack and I must say she is a very impressive ship, your doing a superb job on her.
 
Nice photography as well.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hola Frank:
 
As I promised you here are the pictures and dimensions of the sails.  Take in account that the measures do NOT considered the hem, so you need to add around 0.5 cm by each side.
 

 
Saludos, Karl

Matti, the glues (be it CA or wood glue/white glue) usually stain the waxed wood. CA is worse, cause it can leave a white stain over the waxed wood - white/wood glue leaves a translucid spot. The wax weakens the CA bond, too, but other glues keep their properties. Usually I use a lot of CA, but not that much on waxed surfaces. tyvm for your visit.

Very nice project to follow Vivian! I like the aproach to darken the wodd before building it. It will give you great control. How does the wax work with ca and wood glue?
 
Jack that is a very cool thing to do, hats off to you!
 
 
/Matti

Thanks, BrianC.
 
Brian, I should´ve better explained that. The false keel will be apparent. As with my other ships, I like to age/darken them - before planking I darkened the false keel with 2 coats of bittumen wax, that way I won't risk damaging the thin planking with a latter waxing. The planks will receive a coat of bittumen wax too and all the hull will be later varnished to attain an even darker hue. I could use a stain, but till now the bittumen wax for darkening wood and giving that old look is the best I´ve tested.
 
Jack, thank you. I´m already drawing the pattern for the scroll work. Scale is my main problem - it´ll push my skills to the limit.

Hi Vivian,
I am happy to be on the front row for your new build. I can't wait to see the modifications, especially the scroll work. Great work so far. Good luck and happy building.

False keel was attached to the stand, first picture shows the before first modification:
 

 
Second picture shows the after, as I cut the tail off. As I intend on building an engraved cover, that part had to get out of the way.
 

 
I waxed the false keel, then and started placing the bulkheads. They were glued and fixed to the block I made for 90° aligning. I took pictures only after they were already glued and I could verify they were rightly fixed.
 

 

 

 

 
As the ship seems too fragile at this point, I decided to place beams between the bulkeads to assure they wouldn´t bend while planking.
 

 
And that´s it for now. Hope to be posting more pictures soon. :D

So, as I said, I´ll begin some new projects while still building the Chinese Junk. This is the first of two, the Osberg by Amati.
 
Before any sawdust comes through, I have to thank my friend Jack Panzeca for his gift. Yep, he was a sweety and sent me this kit he wouldn´t build for he already was building the Billing´s Oseberg - As I was always telling how nice it was and let it clear I would build one if I had, Jack surprised me with offering this one. Jack, here I am, building the ship - Thank you.
 
A review of the box - In comparison to the other 2 ships I built till now, the Amati Oseberg kit is a little sparse on material. Truth be told, that´s because the ship itself isn´t that material consumer - viking ships are fantastic ships considering the small use of wood and their sailing capabilities. The false keel and bulkheads are laser cut, as the wood for hull planking - at first I thought it strange for they´re strangely shaped, but that's explainable by the planking of a so characteristic hull. Some pictures follow:
 

 

 
Fittings may be a problem to those who, as I do, like the wood everywhere. Shields are metal cast, oars are plastic as the mast step. All of those are already marked on my plans as scratchbuild fittings.
 

 
I have to say, though, that Amati Oseberg isn´t really the Oseberg. I measured the ship´s keell and middle bulkead to find she doesn´t fit on the true Oseberg dimensions - False keel should have 43,16cm, and it has 43,9cm, width should be 5,20cm, it´s 5,7cm. Also, Amati´s bring a strange dragon head instead of the engraved details Oseberg has, as a central oar holder that shouldn´t be there. My plans on bashing/modifying goes for removing the central oar holder, engraving the stem/stern as the Oseberg (well, the closest I can get, at least), adding the big barrel the museum ship exposes and chests before the oar holes. I´ll scratch the oars, shields, mast step and rudder.
 
I begun by building a stand. It´s a 6mm mdf board with two 6mm planks held together by butterfly bolts. I would install metal trails for a bulkead aligner, but changed my mind. Instead, I traced lines on the board and made a 90° angled piece gluing 2 mdf pieces (sanded and measured).
 

 
(To be continued)
 
 
 

I am following the drawings of Corel to prepare the masts. My builds are now in a slow speed due to work and private issues.
I hope that the book Vasa II will be issued this year so I can correct some high visibel parys in the rigging

a dry-fit for the masts.
I will fix these the next step.
 
 

 

the last days some small points done, today I painted the doors
 

Continued with the platforms
 

 
and during drying of the glue also continued with the masts
 

 

 
an uncontroled dryfit of the masts
 

the above described methode was not correct
I have redone this using an flexible wood in small strips
 

 
      as I felt very good with this methode, I will now continue with the other 5 platforms

Started with the bindings on the two masts
 
 

Thank you Mark, i think there are no proves for a sliding door in this area. I had a small discussion already here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/333-side-entry-ports-on-british-first-and-second-rates/?hl=%2Bside+%2Bentry+%2Bport
 
And as I was on the gooooooooooooooo, the old paneling on the other side ...
 

 
... was thrown out too and replaced.
 
But as a goody ...
 

 
... I fixed the ropes to help to go aloft :-)
 
XXXDAn

It wasn't a sliding door like those on many ship's stern galleries, was it?   I guess we'd need to access the real ship's frames (if they haven't been replaced) to find out.

Thank you!!!
 
Painted the side parts of the entry port, first yellow ochre ...
 

 
... added the gold ...
 

 
... starts to look quite noble :-)
 

 
Then the old question about closing the port:
 
Just for discussion: once like a gunport lid solid ...
 

 
... and once painted sailcloth on a wooden frame like the bulkheads.
 

 
Both Versions ...
 

 
... on the backside once a solid board, once as a frame, both with eyebolts to hold.
 

 
And now again the question - how was the side entry port closed?!?
 
Asked Karl Heinz Marquardt, he knows of no system, even speculates on leaving the port open. I believe there must have been something as there were sleeping hammocks just beside. As all doors or other permanent fittings were sooner or later represented in models, I guess upon a flexible solution, a board or a frame with sailcloth, logically fixed on the outside like a gunport lid but held towards the inner side by eyebolts and rope.
 
So any idea or even better proves how it was fixed ?!?
 
Cheers Daniel
 
XXXDAn

Hi Guys,
 
Thank you gents for your very kind comments and likes, I do appreciate them.
 
Mark,  Augie and Kevin have kindly sent me links which has saved me a lot of time searching, I need to check them out but a quick glance tells me they are exactly what I need.  
 
Augie - Kevin,  Thanks guys, those links are just the ticket.  Kevin, I would love to build you one but your gonna have to send me your Vic so I can get a profile of her.
 
Grant,  I cant wait either, shant be long now though.
 
Carl,  I didn't like the kit display stand and I made a mistake when I failed to put the nuts into the false keel so I couldn't use pillars, I must admit though that with the weight of this beast I wouldn't have trusted them anyway, I just wanted to be a bit different.
 
Matti,  Thanks mate, you know what they say, "Seek and Yee Shall Find" you just never know what's round the corner.  
 
Wayne,  Thanks for the offer mate but I think I can find a home for it, I may need to put some more worktops up though. I built a small empire at work, it feels like I'm starting one here to. Feels like I'm in "Oliver" when I ask for extra space, I quote "MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!  YOU WANT MORE*******".
I blame you mate, I tell her you moved thousands of miles to a new home so you could have more space, I shant tell you her response but I'm still wearing the eye patch.  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Wow, she is looking stunning mobbsie! Funny I was thinking about how a stand with multiple poles holding the ship would look, and then I see yours. It looks really nice!
 
 
/Matti