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broden

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  1. Hi clearway, So HMS Terror mast should be fitted with rope bindings as shown in the OcCre plans. As I have said this is my first wood ship model and I am learning and watching what other more experienced modelers are doing. Thanks for the heads up, it is appreciated. DB ps I am still getting "Keith" and "Keith S" mixed up.
  2. Actually here is a link to the whole manual. https://www.ssgreatbritain.org/brunel-institute/manual-maritime-curatorship DB
  3. Hey Keith, Just stumbled across a .pdf file related to the SS Great Britian that has a good deal of detail of deck fittings including historical stuff. It might be of some value for your research. Here is a link: https://www.ssgreatbritain.org/sites/default/files/kcfinder/files/C Fittings.pdf DB
  4. Progress continues. I had a lot of trouble fitting the stern post, not too certain why, but it is attached and lined up properly. The black stain has been applied and I am beginning to add the deck rails. Of course in the mean time I built a new desktop computer which took a fair amount of time. Next steps, finish installing the deck rails, paint the ice bumper ( I'm sure there is a better term for that), Start on the deck furniture and source 8mm and 7mm dowels for the main and fore masts. I read comments here, I think from "clearwater" that the kit masts were not the correct size and t
  5. The process continues. I have added the strakes (ice bumpers) to the hull. A lot of sanding. Fortunately we had a spell of good weather and was able to use my dremel outside. I hope that next week I can do the same for the prop enclosure. I painted the inside of the bulwarks Admiralty yellow as suggested one of the build logs. Certainly better than the blood red used on ships of war. My friend who is a mechanical engineer is eager to find out how they attached the propeller and how it was removed and reinstalled at sea. He has been unable to find any details yet on the mechanisms
  6. Hi Geowolf, Your finish planking looks pretty good as well. My next step will be the same as yours. I had a close look at the kit deck boats and I was not impressed with the cast metal ones, so I spent more money and got the Master Korabel launch kits. They are at 1/72 which I felt was close enough to 1/75 to be usable. They are a serious challenge. The parts are very tiny and there are lots of them. Each small boat will present many hours of careful work. When I started the Terror build I expected it to take a long time maybe the full winter, which here in Montreal can
  7. By the way my decision is made. I will be staining the hull black and the rub strip white. DB
  8. Thanks, Geowolf and all the other builders of HMS Terror. I am reading all the builds and am very impressed with the care and detail that you are all putting into this great little ship. I am a newbie and everything I see and read helps. Again thanks Well I did the second layer of planking. The picture is of one side with a coat of mahogany stain applied. If you look closely you will see where I got into trouble. The thin strips do not bend well. Actually they do bend, but they are so thin that they leave a split on a curve. There was a judicious use of wood filler where the lines
  9. Hi from His Majesty's dockyard Lasalle. The first layer of planks are done. No gaps, a couple of dips that a generous helping of wood filler resolved. I have laid on the second layer planks for the gunwales and discovered how fragile those strips of, what looks like mahogany really are. They chip and crack way too easily. So the issue of using wood filler came up. The brand I am using does take stain well, but it still looks like there is wood filler there. The pictures below show my test bits. The mahogany stain lets the wood filler show through, but the black stain really covers everyth
  10. Thank you for your comments, ObviousNewbie. It is great to have people pay attention to each other's builds. I watched the YouTube videos on planking. I carefully measured the frames, used a spreadsheet to calculate the amount of taper at each frame. Then I consider the planking rules, only taper the top of the planks stealers are OK at the stern , but not on the bow and planned how I was going to plank. Then I watched the OcCre build video and saw what that guy was doing in astonishment. He was slapping on planks, putting in slivers all over the place and then sanding the hell out o
  11. Thanks for the help. I suspect the kit has changed. The first and second layer of planks supplied are much longer than the model. I will just lay them full length tapering and filling as necessary. I got the deck finished with the deck boards defined a quick coat of shellac then a light wash of very diluted acrylic white to tone done the colour. I then installed the deck along with the transome and bulwarks. I picked up a mahogany stain at the big box store and am using that for all the deck furniture as I go along. It seems to look pretty good on the bits I have done so far. Th
  12. I have the deck almost where I want it. A bit more sanding and outlining of the planks then finishing. I am waiting on delivery of some "B" lead for mechanical pencil to do the lining of the deck planks. I took a look at the kit instruction for planking then did the usual searches on google and YouTube for planking methods. The OcCre kit's method of planking the first layer up to frame A2and ending there is not typical. It looks reasonable in the plans, but I am curious, is it a good idea or will not running the planks right to the bow cause problems later on? Anyway, I starte
  13. Thanks for the tip on mast diameters. I do not think I have MM drill bits, but I have the fractional equivalents. Worst case I have a lathe so trimming the dowels and shaping them will not be a problem. I figured out how I screwed up the deck planking. A close review of the instructions revealed that the center planks should be part A-21 described as 0,6x5x400, Qty 10, herringbone planking as A-22 described as 0,6x5x47, qty 75. In my kit I have many strips of 0.5x5x600 and maybe 5 strips of 0.5x6x600. So my deck has 5 center runs of 0.5x5x60 planking and herring bone layout of the
  14. Thanks for the insight. I will probably do a light wash of mostly white with a touch of gray to tone down the wood a bit. Even modern ships with teak or oak decks very quickly get a weathered look. So I started the herring bone decking and figured how to produce the approximately 190 boards to cover the rest of the deck. Basically I used dividers to set the length, mark the angle with a small angle set then cut the whole strip at once. I got fooled with a couple of strips that were just a little wider 6 mm instead of 5 mm. I do not know if I screwed up some thing else by cutting that stri
  15. Things seem to be moving quickly on the build. All the frames are mounted on the false keel. A couple had noticeable bows in the frames but not enough to prevent the under deck from fitting properly. The fitting of the under deck went much better when it was turned over. It did not look any different but it certainly was. Being a bit contrary, I did not like the instructions on planking the deck with the long strips down the center. I'm sure it would be faster, but I'm not doing this built for fast, so I'm cutting individual boards for the center strip and will high light them with a "B" penci
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