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  1. I could not figure out how to add more text to the post above, so I'm adding in a second post. The supplied material for the plating seems a bit thick and stiff, but the suggested contact cement method might work if done plate by plate. I decided to try a thinner aluminum, so I am cutting up a soda can. It is thinner, but still some what stiff, but bends much more easily. Picture below and comments welcomed. Happy Holidays and stay safe. Dennis
  2. Merry Christmas All. We in Quebec, Canada are starting our second lock down today. It is supposed to 18 days, but I think it will go much longer. What a mess. Back to the isolated world of building HMS Terror. I have questions, lots of questions. First are these images in the instructions suggesting two possible layouts of the sheathing for the bow or is one just wrong?
  3. Thanks for the views and comments. One thing that gave a lot of trouble while working on the stern and rudder was the rivet heads. Being a first time builder cutting the pins supplied by Occre led to many bits of pin launched into space by the cutting pliers, too short to hold and fit into the holes in the brass pinions. So i worked out a couple of processes that may help the next newbie. First bend and fit the brass bits to the rudder and hull. Glue them in place, not an easy task for me. Then drill the holes. I used an awl first then a drill bit in a pin vice. You
  4. Hi, Daniel, Michael Palin's book "Erebus" gives a pretty good history of the journeys of both of Franklin's ships. It might give you some of the detail you need. Great work on the stern. Looks very fine. Dennis
  5. Evening All, Thank you for the comments on blackening brass. I tried a couple of approaches to do the job with limited success. I soaked the parts in acetone to get off any lacquer of grease washed them, then put the parts in "Birchwood Casey Brass Black" they immediately turned black. After about 10 minutes I put them on paper towels to dry. Well the black comes off easily, but leaves the brass a gunmetal blue. Pictures below. The plan is to still blacken the iron under the water line and leave the deck brass in it's original colour, with the exception of the anchor chain. So
  6. Progress has been slow, and will probably continue that way. I have started on the deck furniture. I am having issues with being accurate as I cut stock for the frames for the pin rails. The miter box I have is plastic and the razor saw gets hung up often, but I am learning to be much more gentle with my cutting and it seems to be getting better. I am fortunate to have a friend who is a luthier and gave me some 4 x 4 mm and 2 x 4 mm walnut to help with my wastage. The other builds on this site are very helpful and I am getting lots of help from the posted pictures. I am now conside
  7. I have spent a lot of time looking at the OcCre plans and images as well as several builds in this forum of the Gallery windows their framing. I did not like the paint the back boards blue approach or the bulk of the framing. It seemed out of scale as well as the depth of the windows in the framing timbers. I decided to back the brass frames with clear celluloid and then with 1 mm stock which I painted light grey with a shade of pale yellow it give the impression of candle light. It certainly is not everything I wanted it to be, but I feel it is a little more customized. Here ar
  8. Hi clearway, So HMS Terror mast should be fitted with rope bindings as shown in the OcCre plans. As I have said this is my first wood ship model and I am learning and watching what other more experienced modelers are doing. Thanks for the heads up, it is appreciated. DB ps I am still getting "Keith" and "Keith S" mixed up.
  9. Actually here is a link to the whole manual. https://www.ssgreatbritain.org/brunel-institute/manual-maritime-curatorship DB
  10. Hey Keith, Just stumbled across a .pdf file related to the SS Great Britian that has a good deal of detail of deck fittings including historical stuff. It might be of some value for your research. Here is a link: https://www.ssgreatbritain.org/sites/default/files/kcfinder/files/C Fittings.pdf DB
  11. Progress continues. I had a lot of trouble fitting the stern post, not too certain why, but it is attached and lined up properly. The black stain has been applied and I am beginning to add the deck rails. Of course in the mean time I built a new desktop computer which took a fair amount of time. Next steps, finish installing the deck rails, paint the ice bumper ( I'm sure there is a better term for that), Start on the deck furniture and source 8mm and 7mm dowels for the main and fore masts. I read comments here, I think from "clearwater" that the kit masts were not the correct size and t
  12. The process continues. I have added the strakes (ice bumpers) to the hull. A lot of sanding. Fortunately we had a spell of good weather and was able to use my dremel outside. I hope that next week I can do the same for the prop enclosure. I painted the inside of the bulwarks Admiralty yellow as suggested one of the build logs. Certainly better than the blood red used on ships of war. My friend who is a mechanical engineer is eager to find out how they attached the propeller and how it was removed and reinstalled at sea. He has been unable to find any details yet on the mechanisms
  13. Hi Geowolf, Your finish planking looks pretty good as well. My next step will be the same as yours. I had a close look at the kit deck boats and I was not impressed with the cast metal ones, so I spent more money and got the Master Korabel launch kits. They are at 1/72 which I felt was close enough to 1/75 to be usable. They are a serious challenge. The parts are very tiny and there are lots of them. Each small boat will present many hours of careful work. When I started the Terror build I expected it to take a long time maybe the full winter, which here in Montreal can
  14. By the way my decision is made. I will be staining the hull black and the rub strip white. DB
  15. Thanks, Geowolf and all the other builders of HMS Terror. I am reading all the builds and am very impressed with the care and detail that you are all putting into this great little ship. I am a newbie and everything I see and read helps. Again thanks Well I did the second layer of planking. The picture is of one side with a coat of mahogany stain applied. If you look closely you will see where I got into trouble. The thin strips do not bend well. Actually they do bend, but they are so thin that they leave a split on a curve. There was a judicious use of wood filler where the lines
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